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Lodging Dordogne Oct 08

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Lodging Dordogne Oct 08

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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 06:59 AM
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Lodging Dordogne Oct 08

We have used Fodors to help us choose lodging in Provence and had great rooms. Having difficulty choosing lodging Sarlat area. Would like B&B or small hotel near Sarlat for 5 nights in Oct--looking at l'Esplanade Domme, Hotel du Chateau-Beynac or Domaine de la Barde -Le Buque sur Vezere or Hotel Bonnet. Would like to be able to walk to some restaurants at night --not be positioned in the middle of a busy road. We stayed Mas des Romarins in Gordes and loved it. 100Euro or under good. Any suggestions about the above listed or any others.
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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 07:51 AM
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Hi nsalerno.

We were in the Dordogne last September and stayed in a B&B in Sarlat called La Lanterne. We were very happy there and able to walk to dinner at night.

www.sarlat.biz
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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 04:30 PM
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I checked La lanterne out and thought it sounded good. Then someone said that Sarlat was very busy and way too touristy. Was it located in the old town part of the city? Was it quiet and how were the rooms?
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 02:52 AM
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I cant comment on the rooms at La Lanterne - I live near Sarlat, and saw the house before it was turned into a chambre d'hotes, and it was an attractive house.

It is certainly in the old part of town - you can't get more central. It's right by the cathedral, on a street that appears in virtually every guidebook/picture book of the area.

Another new chambre d'hotes is Les Cordeliers.http://www.hotelsarlat.com/ Again, I haven't been outside - since I live here, I don't need to stay overnight anywhere else but home. However, it does look very attractive, and is also centrally located.

In October Sarlat wont be full of tourists - the really busy time is the summer. Walking around at night by the gas lamps is quite magical.
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 03:06 AM
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Hi NS,

We stayed at the Bonnet in 2005. We liked it very much.

However, since then it has lost its Logis de France listing.

We visited Sarlat and did not find it particularly touristy in mid-Sept.

Not at all as bad as Carcassone.


You might find my trip report useful.

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645

Photos at http://tinyurl.com/sjch4

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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 04:03 PM
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Ira: We just looked at your photo album from your trip to France in Sept 2005. They are beautiful. Thank you for your suggestions. We have also stayed at Corinnes flat in Dijon in Sept 2006 . We liked it a lot and really enjoyed her.
We found a B&B http://www.best-of-perigord.tm.fr/he...dannieuk.html4 km from Sarlat. Have you heard of this one. looks good to us. Also Le Relais des Cinq Chateaux in Vezac looks good.
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 04:21 PM
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Ira, I just looked at your wonderful photos. Might I ask, where is Castel Beranger? That gate is remarkable.
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 09:56 PM
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We loved Chateau Monrecour just outside of Beynac. There are a few good restaurants within walking distance of the Chateau in Beynac, the rooms are lovely, and breakfast is delicious. It's 10 kms from Sarlat. http://www.monrecour.com
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 04:21 AM
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On my last trip to the area, which was October 2006, we rented a house in Domme. We spent a fair amount of time at the Esplanade although we did not stay and did not see the rooms. The staff was very friendly and it felt like a cozy country hotel. The restaurant is very, very good. In mid-October, there were not a lot of options for eating in Domme...just a few places that looked appealing tome were open. But the bulk of the tourists had certainly left and town felt quite "real" as opposed to purely tourist-oriented. It is a drive of about 15 minutes to Sarlat and I did not find the drive difficult. There is parking in Sarlat, even on market days, in at least one large lot within easy walk of the town center. Domme itself is staggeringly beautiful and is well situated for touring much of the region. The Esplanade has parking.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 06:32 AM
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Esplanade in Domme is excellent, and we would highly recommend it.

Always amazed at the word "touristy"....seems to imply those on this board are not tourists?

We find Domme very pleasant in September & October, and it's a great town to center on.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 04:37 PM
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Thanks everyone

We decided to stay at L'esplanade in Domme for 5 nights in Oct 08. After looking at the pictures of the town it reminded us of Gordes in Provence and seemed to also have a few restaurants nearby we can walk to. However, I went to the trip advisor web site , registered and ended up on a Chateaux and hotels d France web site where we pay for all 5 nights now. I had wanted to ask about a room with a view but can't find a number to call. Also when we went to Paris and provence 2 years ago we just paid one night up front and then the remainder on arrival. we don't seem to have that option here. Do you think its reasonable to payfor all now??--Help!!!!
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 04:53 PM
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Hi RC,

>where is Castel Beranger?

14, Rue Lafontaine, Paris

Hi NS,

Try http://tinyurl.com/2x29b5

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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 05:00 PM
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Why did you register with Trip Advisor? Why not book directly through the hotel: http://esplanade-perigord.com/

The Domaine de la Barde in Le Bugue is a darling place, too, with the wonderful Le Velo Rouge restaurant, and Le Bugue has gobs of restaurants and cafes and banks and supermarkets - really, really nice market town but not as "touristy" as I imagine you are imagining Sarlat to be. And really, that's a silly notion. Yes, it's jam packed in July, but in October you should be able to appreciate Andre Malraux's efforts to restore it to its 17th-century beauty without complaining that it's "touristy." The reason people flock there is because it's beautiful. The reason locals flock there is because it's the market hub for the entire region.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 07:25 PM
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I stayed at L'Esplanade for several days with my husband and parents in October 2006 and we really enjoyed it. We found the rooms a bit dated in decor (think pink!) but the bathrooms were nice and the restaurant was indeed excellent. October is a great time of year to go and Domme really quiets down in the evening. There are plenty of places to eat within walking distance - be sure to investigate the side streets. You could also take a 10-15 minute drive to several nearby towns (we went to La Roque Gageac) for more dining options. If you do a search on my screen name you should find my trip report with all the details.

I should add that we have made multiple trips to the Dordogne and we also considered Hotel du Chateau in Beynac this time, but decided Domme would make a better base - larger, more restaurants, but not as big and busy as Sarlat, which we love to visit as a day trip.

I would contact the hotel directly to make your arrangements - then you can request a room on the river side (the views are amazing). I believe we just made a one-night deposit.
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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 03:29 AM
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I think you made a good choice. Enjoy!!

Oh, here is my trip report which contains some info on the week I spent in Domme; that part will be after the Bayonne/San Sebastian section:




http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34894706



To add an update to that report:

When I drove through the Dordogne last spring, en route from Cognac to the Albi area, I lunched at a lovely place near Montignac that was recommended here by poster and local resident St. Cirq; if you plan to visit Lascaux you might keep it in mind:

http://www.tableduterroir.com/restaurant.htm



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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 04:15 AM
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We spent three days in Montignac this past October at La Roseraie. The town was charming and its location central for our cave visits. Best surprise was the quality of the hotel restaurant...really, really fine. We took half board and highly recommend it....they offered a good special on room rates for multiple nights.
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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 04:21 AM
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That is interesting. I really liked Montignac, from my brief visits...I think it would make a great base...thank you for the tip.

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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 05:17 AM
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ek.....you're welcome. We also had a wonderful lunch in Sarlat at Le Presidial....recommend it as well.
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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 05:24 AM
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Thanks, Traviata! I did eat there a few years ago and liked it.

Also, in a small hamlet near Montignac there is a small place called Le Barrail that looks just great..no frills but it was filled with locals when I tried to have lunch there last spring...we arrived at 1:50 and were told it was to late since we had not reserved ahead....I was disappointed, to be sure, but we ended up at Table du Terroir which turned out to be excellent.

I wish I could find my notes with the details about Le Barrail...
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Old Jan 2nd, 2008, 12:26 PM
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You can stop checking your notes - here are mine for one of our favourite fermes/auberges. Very nice couple who run it, great food, great ambience. But book ahead - it's not like a restaurant where you can just walk in. They need to know you're coming.

• Le Bareil – La Chapelle Aubareil (north of Sarlat) 05 53 50 74 28. This is our favourite auberge, a little farther away than some, but the setting is much more authentic than most. A smallish room, with a big fireplace, great food and very friendly service. It is usually open for lunch during the week and on Sundays, and for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. During the week, there is no choice of menu. You eat whatever they are serving – usually, wine, soup, pate or salad, meat, cheese and dessert for about 15 euros. Take the 704 north from Saralt toward Montignac. You will see a right turn to St. Amand de Coly, left to La Chapelle Aubareil. Turn left and continue until you see a right turn to Le Bareil. It is only about 500 m after this turn.
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