Greetings - <BR> <BR>After some questionable experiences in Paris eateries, we were pleased to find that Les Deux Magot exceeded our expectations. <BR> <BR>Now, we didn't have a full meal so I can't speak to the actual food, but, we did have cafe creme and some pasteries and an excellent table right on the corner. <BR> <BR>The cafe was served in a pitcher just like the cream. There was actually enough coffee for almost 2 cups for each of us! And the pastry, superb. <BR> <BR>The view of the church is great, watching all the people hussle by is great, the service was great (believe it or not), and the cafe and dessert was great. Well worth the money on a clear, sunny Paris afternoon. <BR> <BR>I hadn't expected much because this is one of those famous "literary" cafes from the days of old and it's written up in all the guides, but, we passed by one day and decided to give it a try and were very glad we did. <BR> <BR>I highly recommend it!

how great to hear a favorable word! any other places/notes for us to take note of?

Lynn, where did you have bad or less than expected experiences in Paris eateries? It is good to know where not to go as it is to know where to go. <BR> <BR>

John - <BR> <BR>Pretty much if it's right in a heavy tourist area (and I stress heavy because Paris in general is a tourist area because of so many things to see and do and the amount of visitors they have coming through every year) and they have very clear english menus catering to non-locals, we have experienced that they are not the best. Also keep in mind, I am referring to "regular" type restaurants. Not the real high dollar places which I'm sure serve great food at an equal price. I'm talking about between $15 - $25 US per person. <BR> <BR>We have found that to get a really good meal in Paris you have to do one of the following 1) stumble upon something off the beaten track 2) ask someone who knows and get a referral from someone that lives (or lived) there 3)spend big bucks (although, from what I've heard from some on this forum, even the big bucks don't always mean great food). <BR> <BR>On this last trip, we went to a place referred by a business associate who lived there for six years. It was great. It was also about $45 per person which is more than we usually want to spend, but we were really glad to have found a great place so we went 3 times in 6 days. It was way at the edge of the city, however, and took awhile to get to. <BR> <BR>In any case, if you're walking around the heavy tourist areas, such as St. Michel Place, I would stick with the "street food" there. When we go to Paris, we stay right on the corner of Rue de la Harpe and Rue de la Huchette at Hotel D'Albe. We love the area for the people, activity, and street performers (esp. on the weekend) well into the night. Anytime we can look out the balcony and watch everyone down below. Also, it is very centrally located within the city and just a few yards from the St. Michel metro stop. <BR> <BR>The restaurants right around here however, leave a bit to be desired. Of course, I haven't tried them all so perhaps one is O.K., but, I wouldn't bet on it. They are undoubtedly geared to the one-time customer so there is no motivation for making a really good meal. Only barely adequate. And for us, when we are spending $20+ per person, we want more than adequate. <BR> <BR>The greek pitas, crepes, bakery items, etc. are great around here. Those, I recommend. Just remember, everyone has their own opinion. We tried one place that was suggested by someone on Fodor's (and I'm not slamming them, they like what they like) and we didn't care for it. I imagine, like most things in life, it depends on what you are used to. <BR> <BR>As far as another recommendation, I would highly urge you to visit the Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine area. It is not far from St. Michel Place. Very lively market fruits and vegetables, cafes, vendors selling food, chinese fast-food, boutiques, etc. A great area to walk around. <BR> <BR> <BR>Have a great rest of the weekend!

Lynn, thanks for the great response. I should have told you that I've been to Paris many, many times and lived there for a year in 1994. So I am familair with the Paris restaurants. I have my own personal list of favorites, but am always intersted in what others think and have found. For some reason, the posters on this forum really don't get into the restaurants as much as they do about the hotels and other activities. A highlight for me is and always has been the food. <BR> <BR>I found your post and insight quite remarkable for what I assume, perhaps, incorrectly for someone who has not been to Paris that often. <BR> <BR>My personal experiences agree with yours that you really need to get off of the beaten path, so to speak, to find the better restaurants. And, yes, those restaurants that cater strictly to the tourist crowds are certainly the worse. They don't rely on repeat customers and there are enough tourists year-round to fill their cash registers. Local neighborhood restaurants, however, see very little of the tourists and do rely on repeat customers who are quite demanding. For the same reason, the local neighborhood restaurants also have excellent house wine for their repeat customers and I never hesitate in ordering it at a great savings. <BR> <BR>I found it difficult to get a good quality meal for less than $25-$30 and as you said the more expensive restaurants aren't always better. That is very true. You can pay $10, $20, $30 or more for just a magret de canard at different restaurants and it is the same exact dish no matter where you go. And there is very little, if any, difference in the ambience of the restaurants. <BR> <BR>Well, I enjoyed your post. Thank you and you have a good evening as well.

Hi Lynn, <BR> <BR>It's good to hear you positive review of Deux Magots as I will be there in Paris in May and plan to go there. In fact, I have met 2 people here at this web site and 7 of us will meet there for drinks on the 16th! <BR> <BR>I too believe in getting away from the heavy tourist areas to find restaurants that are of good value. <BR> <BR>I'll post my travels when we return!

Hi Again - <BR> <BR>John: Yes. You are correct to ass/u/me that I have only been to Paris 2 times. I do, however, live in a very heavily "visited", large U.S. city (in the 'burbs at least) and have travelled a little bit. So, I'm somewhat versed in the "tourist area rules". Thanks for your post. I enjoy reading other people's views. <BR> <BR>Monica: I hope you have a great trip in May. I'm sure everything will be beautiful. The next time I go, I want to go in May. We were just there last week and some of the trees where green already and some were just beginning to "sprout". <BR> <BR>One thing about the cafe; spot a table you want and then go hang out by it. Of course, you don't want to be tooooo obvious, but, if you don't stay near it, you may lose it to someone else. <BR> <BR>As we saw while sitting there, many people stake out where they want to sit and then when someone gets up, there is a "civilized race" to see who gets it. <BR> <BR>It's pretty fun to watch... <BR> <BR>Have a great trip!

Monica - A "Fodor's meet" in Paris-what fun! Give my regards....As for food, there's been no mention in these posts of it, but we found "Cheap Eats in Paris" to be very helpful. Bon Appetit!

The hot chocolate is also excellent at Aux Deux Magots. We made a return trip for breakfast before leaving for the airport. I hear it is also great next door at Cafe le Flore.

Lynn, I find it incredible that you've only been to Paris 2 times. I have to admit it took me a lot longer to figure things out. I do tip my hat to you. <BR> <BR>By the way, do you recall the name of the restaurant you mentioned ... $45 pp you went to 3 times? I am curious.

Hi Lynn, <BR> <BR>Thanks for the tip on "how to secure a table" at Deux Magots. I'm looking forward to enjoying the many outdoor cafes! And I'm looking forward to the flowers and trees in bloom. I usually travel to Europe late April/May timeframe. <BR> <BR>Raeona, I did buy the Cheap Eats in Paris book and copied the pages for the 5th, 6th, and 7th Arr. so I won't have to take the book. There are MANY restaurants to choose from; however, I have marked several for each area for our choices. <BR> <BR>Yes, the Fodors meet will be fun. I just hope we can get a table for 7! <BR> <BR>Thanks! <BR>

John - <BR> <BR>Thank you for the kind words... <BR> <BR>As to that restaurant. I believe it's called something like Le Relais des Venise. That's close if it's not exact. <BR> <BR>It was out near Porte Maillot metro stop. What I know for sure, you can see the large tower of the Concorde Layfette hotel ahead and slightly to the right when you come up from the metro. Also, the restaurant is very near the Grand Armee blvd. although it is located on a side street. <BR> <BR>Excellent! We can't wait to go back and eat there again. We were joking about how if we were anywhere in Europe within a 2 hour train ride of Paris we might just go into town for dinner! <BR> <BR>Hope you find it on your next trip, it's worth looking.

Lynn, thanks for the name. I don't know that one, but I am familiar with that general area and I will keep it in mind for my next visit. There are other good reataurants around that area and also a few blocks away.

well, lynn, you got it right in the best place. I can't tell how right you are, this is like the best place to go. <BR>If you want to try a very frenchy thing, there is a wine restaurant (bistrot a vin), on the quai des augustins, very close from place St michel, where they serve 4 cheeses/4 wines for 100 FF. It might sound expensive, but man that is good ! <BR>

We used to stay on the left bank and stop at Deux Magots often. We ran into little unpleastness the last time, September '97. We were siting at a table in the front on blvd. St. Germain when a beggar came by. We have seen street entertainers there and ocassionally tipped them. I told the beggar, however, in my best french to get lost. He left but not before stepping on my wife's foot as hard as he could. She was too shocked to mention it immediatly and the beggar disappeared. Watch those tables up front if you don't plan to be generous.