My husband and I did this trip in 2018 and thought Cadaques was fantastic. The museum in Bilbao was wonderful. Learning about Dali was entertaining and we came home with an awesome picture of the two of us popping out of an oversized egg. It made the Christmas card. Between Cadaques and Barcelona we took a cheap flight to Menorca and poked around there. It was gorgeous.

mammyu, thank you! There are sooo many places to see - the more I read, the more places I want to go! I’ll just have to shut my eyes at the mention of Menorca…😉

The photo you took sounds like a hoot - I’ll have to remind my husband about this when we get there!

Answering as a Basque local:

San Sebastian – 5? Day trips include Hondarribia ; St Jean de Luz and/or Bayonne
After San Sebastian, pick up car and drive either to
a) Laguardia (explore inland towns) that´s Rioja Alavesa, the Basque part of the Rioja DOC wine region, an almost two hour drive, much better from Bilbao (one hour drive)
(OR)
b)Getaria – 2/3 nights.I would spend just the day in Getaria, it´s a very small town and so close to San Sebastian that you can also visit it from there.
Bilbao – 4 (Drop car)
Either fly back to BCN or fly home from Bilbao

mikelg,
Thanks so much! I was hoping you’d add your comments! And very helpful - as I refine the trip, I’ll plan on the Rioja Alavesa in the itinerary. It was what I was leaning toward as a contrast to the earlier part of the trip, but it’s always hard to narrow things down when it all sounds lovely.

Rioja Alavesa is a very different part of the Basque Country, with medieval style towns and vineyards everywhere, with wineries that have cellars dating back as early as the 14th century. Try to avoid visiting the big names...very touristy and in big groups, if you need suggestions on what wineries are more interesting, please just ask!

mikelg,
Many thanks! I’ll definitely be asking for more specifics when our trip gets more refined.

Much as I love wine, it doesn’t love me, so wineries are not a focus - though I do love cider. But I love charming, medieval towns and scenic views, so I’m sure we’ll have plenty to see and do.

progol, if it is cider you love, do some research (if you have not already) on the cider houses in San Sebastian.

Cider in the Basque Country and other regions in northern Spain (Asturias, mainly) is not carbonated and it´s not sweet. It´s the purest form of cider: just fermented apple juice (almost 6% alcohol), that is served either from the bottle (but holding it high so the cider breaks into the glass) or from the barrels at cider farms, mainly around the area of Donostia-San Sebastian (but also in other places in the Basque Country). Cider season starts in January and ends in May, although most cider farms will stay open all year round.

Thanks, I definitely will. I read a little bit about them but have not really researched them. Added to my list!

progol,
Sorry I'm so late to this thread! But mikelg, Karen, Michael, rialtogrl and others have given you some great ideas.
I'll just comment on your original plan--

Fly into Barcelona and stay for 5 nights--
perfect

Pick up car and drive to Cadaqués--
will take about 3+ hours from a car rental agency at Sants station with a morning 10 am departure.
The drive from Roses (not personally a big fan of Roses as I find it less charming and built up) up to blindingly white Greek island looking Cadaqués, as Karen says, is non-stop curves, very sinuous, slow going but not dangerous. I would perhaps avoid the drive on a Friday, as it's a popular weekend destination for Barcelona residents but in May it won't be crowded as it is in July-August. I wouldn't stay more than 2 nights since it's quite isolated and not handy for exploring except for walks on the Cap de Creus.

Northern Costa Brava perch--
I love both Begur (Hotel Aiguablava & Parador have sea views to die for, Hotel Aiguaclara in town is charming but no sea views) and Llafranc (Hotel Llafranc, Llevant and Terramar directly face the sea promenade). I would choose whichever lodging you find more charming and that would fit your budget. I know them well. I've written an updated Costa Brava guide that I'll attach in another post. Sooooooooo many wonderful day trips to delightful medieval villages of Pals, Peratallada, Monells, Ullastret (Iberic settlement), Palau-Sator. I promise you'll love the Baix Empordà countryside that some locals call "the little Tuscany".

Mallorca or Costa Brava?---
Please choose the latter! We started our summer Spain sojourn with a 2-week Mallorca stay and frankly were mostly underwhelmed, even though we did enjoy our week in the Tramontana (Deiá, Pollensa, Sóller), which would be mostly quiet in early May. Menorca is a different kettle of fish.

Girona--
I agree with Karen that it merits 2 nights at least, if possible, as a day trip just doesn't quite do it justice, although it's possible from Begur/Llafranc. We used Girona as a base to explore the lush Garrotxa extinct volcanic region and its highlight, Besalú, and also Santa Pau. Wonderful Rupit would be a further drive that you probably wouldn't have time for, as I remember you don't want to spend your entire day driving, and some Catalonian Pyrenees drives can be challenging/time consuming, ime. We visited Rupit and equally delightful Tavernet from Vic.

Fly to San Sebastián--
We take the afternoon Vueling flight to SS (airport to Hondarribia) to avoid the 7 am departure.
Without a car in SS? Day trips from SS to Hondarribia by bus, to St-Jean-de-Luz by Euskotrain to Hendaye then bus or train to SJdL. Bayonne, which I love and has a lovely Basque Ethnographic Museum and cathedral would be by bus. In May, I would choose Bayonne as St-Jean-de-Luz will be quiet and not as much fun and both have the same great shopping for handicrafts--same shops.. A trip to a cider house, one super authentic that opens only during cider season, is a real treat, and we love Astarte, the real deal, in Astigarraga (a public bus will get you there).
I know you're torn between SS & Hondarribia, but for a first timer, most would want to experience SS. That said, SS lodging prices are sky high this year (ouch!) and without a car you can't explore the picture perfect inland villages mentioned by HappyT. Hondarribia has the advantage of being a bit closer to the border, a bit cheaper, and you could have a car to explore the Pays Basque, which would be ideal. (We were just there in late July)

Getaria or Laguardia?---
Hard choice! In July we spent 5 nights in each--why? because we love them both!! The views from our private terrace at the lovely Hotel San Prudenzio in Getaria in the well-priced jr suite were mesmerizing and breakfasts phenomenal, plus truly lovely hosts. We walked from Getaria to Zarautz and took a very informative 2-hour boat ride to see the flysch from Zumaia. Gorgeous countryside and Getaria has charming places to have pintxos and amazing seafood. But yes, you can enjoy it in a day trip, as we had done many times in the past. Our main reason for Getaria was to avoid the astronomical lodging prices in SS in July. We had a car but the bus from SS to Getaria is easy.

A stay in Laguardia is most often used for wine touring as it's the quintessential wine town of the Rioja Alavesa. But I know that wine touring for both of you is much less of a draw. However, there are monasteries to visit (Yuso, Suso, Cañas, Santa Maria la Real in Nájera) and the Camino town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, but they do require driving. But also, Laguardia is also surrounded by dolmens, a fascinating "cementerio ateo", an Iron Age settlement of Poblado La Hoya, one can bike through the vineyards, the views are spectacular any time of year, and it has charming lodgings (but those inside the walls like the Hospedería Los Parajes, require parking in the public lots outside of the village and schelping luggage. The wine hotel of Eguren Ugarte just outside of town has splendid vineyard views from its rooms and makes for an easy in-and-out for day touring..
You could take a day trip from Bilbao to Laguardia as a way to fit in this walled medieval village if you decide to stay on the coast. Laguardia is just too far a drive from SS for a memorable day trip. Mikelg does this regularly from Bilbao. I do have a ridiculously looooooong Rioja guide with more touring ideas, if you need it.

Again, sorry that I've been awol and missed this very informative thread! I could talk about your proposed destinations forever!

Maribel, thank you! And yes, you know that I missed you, so it’s great to see you are back! Your suggestions are much appreciated and I’ve already been studying your guides! Im especially focused on the Costa Brava one (updated!) so have been mulling over the options there.

Our spring trip will really be finalized after we return from our fall trip, and right now, Spain has me hooked, though I’m not sure if M is quite as into the plan as I am.

But I did come up with a variation of my initial itinerary which I really like.Taking the train seems like a great way to travel; otherwise we have to get from,Girona to the airport, and it looks like we could get the train in Girona.

BCN - 5
Costa Brava -4/5
Cadaques -1
Girona-3
Train to
Zaragoza - 2/3
Train to Logroño, pick up car
Laguardia - 3
SS/Hondarribia-3/4
Bilbao -3/4
Fly home from Bilbao or return to BCN for flight home.

Lots more questions but unless and until we’re definitely going, I’ll leave questions alone!

Hi progol,
Very, very glad to know that Spain has you hooked! Now we just have to get M hooked as well!

About your variation--
I like it.
Unless you do want to do some hiking in the windswept Cap de Creus, I think one night in Cadaqués may be enough given its isolation (but I felt that way about just your 1 night in Marvão, which I know you loved!).
I like your move from Barcelona directly to a perch on the Costa Brava to relax and use as a base before going on north to Cadaqués. And the distance from Cadaqués back to Girona won't be as long a drive.

Zaragoza I would probably give just 2 nights. It does have an old quarter with very interesting mudéjar architecture plus the Basílica del Pilar but I think your sightseeing there could be accomplished in one full day. Then after 2 nights, on to Logroño by train. There's a comfortable Alvia at 10:48 that only takes 1 hr. 53 min.
The drive from the Logroño rail station to Laguardia will only take a half hour. After you pass the CUNE Viña Real winery on your left (looks like a giant wine barrel), the scenery becomes spectacular.

The rest sounds great!

Hi Progol -

We just returned from Paris, San Sebastian, Llafranc on the Costa Brava and Barcelona.

San Sebastian in early September was vastly different from our May trip 9 years ago. Both times we stayed at Hotel Londres in a sea view room and were quite happy there. We had 4 nights there this time. We had planned to rent a car to see the Basque countryside that we missed last time, but decided against it because the weather was so hot and we were just not up to it. Our days were spent exploring the town, walking the promenade to Mount Igueldo and the Antigua neighborhood (gorgeous homes), lounging on the beach, exploring old town and of course eating. We followed Maribel's recommendations (thank you, Maribel!) and enjoyed Casa Urola (scallops in a light cream sauce and ham croquetts), Bar Nestor (ask your hotel to reserve the sole table, mesa no. 19 and order tomato salad, peppers and steak), Gambara (order one of everything), and many other pinxto bars whose names I can't recall. It was relaxing, but I found San Sebastian too crowded and touristy at this time of year. I much preferred it when we visited in May and took the bus or train to see Hondarribia, Getaria, and St. Jean de luz.

We flew from EAS (San Sebastian airport) to Barcelona, picked up a car at the airport and drove to Hotel Llevant in Llafranc, which we learned has been sold. We picked Llafranc and this hotel based on Maribel's wonderful recommendations in response to my inquiry on Tripadvisor and her updated 2022 guide to the Costa Brava.

Hotel Llafranc is modest, but we had a room with a lovely sea view and were very comfortable. We fell in love with Llafranc and the hotel the moment we arrived. My husband was reluctant to travel (I think he was out of practice) and I was desperate for a place to unwind, smell the salty air, and basically do nothing to exercise my brain other than taking easy walks, sitting on restaurant terraces, people watching and lounging on the beach. Llafranc during the second week of September was absolutely perfect. The weather was warm and although the town and beach were lively, it never felt too crowded or touristy or loud. We easily rented sun loungers and umbrellas and got seated at restaurants. Our favorite was La Llogosta (very popular so best to reserve - must order the scallops grilled in their shells and the red shrimp from Palamos). We ate at La Blanca at the hotel, but the service was painfully slow and the food was just ok. There are only a few hotels in town and according to a member of the family who owns the hotel, most people had second homes there.

We only had 5 nights and I had planned for a number of the day trips that Maribel recommended, but we only made it to Begur because we couldn't tear ourselves away from Llafranc. We tried to visit Aiguablava on our way back from Begur, but arrived too late in the day to find parking. Still, the drive along the coast from Begur to Llafranc was stunning. The coastal walk to Callela de Palafrugell is also lovely and a nice thing to do in the mornings, but I much preferred Llafranc and its beach to Callela. I think going in May would be quite different and more conducive to exploring. Still, I'm already planning my next trip to Llafranc in September 2024 and will stay for 10 days to allow for the day trips listed in this thread. I'd also love to rent a boat to explore the coastline.
- Leslie

Wow, Vonse, what a great trip report! Thanks so much for sharing your experiences!
We too prefer Llafranc to Calella and happy to know that you want to return!

Leslie, thank you! This is SO helpful and I thank you so very much for posting this. Llafranc sounds like a perfect place - another Fodorite, @alison, stayed in Llafranc a few years ago and also loved it. You’ve sold me and I can see us enjoying a stay there,too.

We will work more on an itinerary after our upcoming trip but thank you again for this!

Maribel, thank you, too, for the feedback on my earlier post. We loved the Mudejar architecture on our earlier trip so I hope to get to Zaragoza but it does sound like 2 nights would be enough.

It all sounds wonderful!

progol,
If you could plan your dates for a possible stay in delightful Girona sometime between May 13-21, 2023 you can be there during the flower festival, the Temps de Flors, which would be something very unique and certainly colorful---especially for such talented photographers and you and M!

https://tempsdeflors-girona-cat.tran..._x_tr_hl=en-US

Maribel,
I had read about the Temps de Flora, and it does look like fun! My big concern, though, would be the crowds. We actually were in Cordoba for the flower festival in 2015 and found the lines to enter the various sights too long to fully enjoy them. The nature of the displays in Girona does look different, but I’d actually considered avoiding the festival in Girona because of this.

progol,
That's a good point, of course, and the festival does get crowded especially on the final weekend.