Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report
Oct 21st, 2008, 06:31 PM
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Oct 21st, 2008, 08:18 PM
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Reminder to Self:
Next trip--get hand held GPS, when she says "it doesn't look far" sit down; have coffee stops planned in advance; left means right; two maps are better than one; and ice cream solves everything.
The best travel companion, for me, is one that will point me in the direction of good food and wine. Kristina is perfect. Can't imagine where she gets that control thing tho.
See this picture http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008day1.html it's me HAPPY, that that I am with her on another adventure.
I had spent the previous week in Germany with my boss, her husband and her sister. It was the "Vinnie and the Bimbos" tour... great fun, but with K, I only need to show up for a good time.
PS: Kristina has made me a carry on convert---it can be done, even for someone who owns 85 pairs of shoes! The secret is all in how you get the air out of the bags.
Next trip--get hand held GPS, when she says "it doesn't look far" sit down; have coffee stops planned in advance; left means right; two maps are better than one; and ice cream solves everything.
The best travel companion, for me, is one that will point me in the direction of good food and wine. Kristina is perfect. Can't imagine where she gets that control thing tho.
See this picture http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008day1.html it's me HAPPY, that that I am with her on another adventure. I had spent the previous week in Germany with my boss, her husband and her sister. It was the "Vinnie and the Bimbos" tour... great fun, but with K, I only need to show up for a good time.
PS: Kristina has made me a carry on convert---it can be done, even for someone who owns 85 pairs of shoes! The secret is all in how you get the air out of the bags.
Oct 22nd, 2008, 07:06 AM
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Aw shucks mom, that's so sweet! 
I have to say, about the carry on thing, I'm so proud of my mom; she did <i>16 days</i> with just carry on!
And what did I tell y'all about her coffee obsession? Actually, we did much less cafe sitting/ coffee drinking in France than we did in previous trips. Not sure why...maybe because 5 euro for a cappucino (sitting outside at a cafe) seemed steep.
I have to say, about the carry on thing, I'm so proud of my mom; she did <i>16 days</i> with just carry on!
And what did I tell y'all about her coffee obsession? Actually, we did much less cafe sitting/ coffee drinking in France than we did in previous trips. Not sure why...maybe because 5 euro for a cappucino (sitting outside at a cafe) seemed steep.
Oct 22nd, 2008, 08:13 AM
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Kristina,
Our similarities are too funny...I recently converted my mom to carry on only too. We spent 21 days in France and did only carry-on. Although we did cheat on the return and checked the bags!
Enjoying your TR (and your website!) and looking forward to the rest.
Our similarities are too funny...I recently converted my mom to carry on only too. We spent 21 days in France and did only carry-on. Although we did cheat on the return and checked the bags!
Enjoying your TR (and your website!) and looking forward to the rest.
Oct 22nd, 2008, 08:15 AM
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Kristina, it is so wonderful to continue reading your report for so many reasons including the fact that I am planning a similar trip with my 23 year-old daughter next May. As I mentioned earlier, your website is also incredible. We will combine Paris with a trip to Provence, and like you and your mother, we are also great travel partners. Our last major trip together was in 2006 when she spent the spring semester of her junior year in Rome. I met her in Rome and rented a car so we could see some of the places neither of us had seen before and we had an amazing time. I've enjoyed planning for our upcoming trip, especially since the dollar has improved, and love all the resources you've compiled on your website. Thanks for sharing.
Oct 22nd, 2008, 11:27 AM
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LCI- still waiting on your trip report (nudge, nudge). 21 days with just carry on is quite a feat, I'm sure you had to do laundry? Since our travel style has so many similarities, I do highly recommend South East Asia if you've not been yet (can't remember).
Oct 22nd, 2008, 06:31 PM
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Kristina...
I know, I know, I have very good intentions of writing my own trip report. But I was using a new camera on this last trip with a much higher resolution and it is taking me FOREVER to upload my photos to the Kodak Gallery website, that pesky little thing called work is eating into my photo project time!
Plus I can never decide which photos to delete and end up uploading way too many! (1000+)
Funny you should mention South East Asia. I have a friend who is keen on Vietnam and Thailand, they may be in my travel plans in 2010...I can't believe I am thinking that far ahead!
Yes, we did do laundry about half way through, it can be a pain to do that, but I'd rather do it then be loaded down with luggage.
I know, I know, I have very good intentions of writing my own trip report. But I was using a new camera on this last trip with a much higher resolution and it is taking me FOREVER to upload my photos to the Kodak Gallery website, that pesky little thing called work is eating into my photo project time!
Plus I can never decide which photos to delete and end up uploading way too many! (1000+) Funny you should mention South East Asia. I have a friend who is keen on Vietnam and Thailand, they may be in my travel plans in 2010...I can't believe I am thinking that far ahead!
Yes, we did do laundry about half way through, it can be a pain to do that, but I'd rather do it then be loaded down with luggage.
Oct 22nd, 2008, 08:25 PM
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LCI-I hear you about the photos. I took over 860 photos in 8 days. Mine are 10MP and each one has to be edited, cropped, photoshopped, and reduced in resolution to be put on my website. Why do you think it's taking me so long? It's not the writing so much as it's the photos. But I won't move one to the next day until I have everything done on the previous one.
And about SEA, I have one word, "GO!". I've been to Thailand 5+ times and could go every year and be happy. Even took my Mom (it's all on the website). Vietnam will be a new destination for me.
Coming up, Day 4, or, "43 Indians on a Train"
And about SEA, I have one word, "GO!". I've been to Thailand 5+ times and could go every year and be happy. Even took my Mom (it's all on the website). Vietnam will be a new destination for me.
Coming up, Day 4, or, "43 Indians on a Train"
Oct 23rd, 2008, 06:23 AM
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<b>Dordogne Region Day 4
October 7, 2008</b>
We are up at 5:45 AM and out on the street for our pre-arranged taxi at 6:45. Unfortunately, there does not seem to be any way to get to Gare Montparnasse from our hotel at that time of the morning via public transportation. At the hotel, they told us when we booked the taxi there would be a surcharge for the early morning pick up and the meter would start running from where ever the cab came from to pick us up. There would also be a per bag charge.
There's 11 euro on the meter when the cab arrives. Yikes. The total cost for the trip to the train station is 19.5 euros.
Once inside the station Mom gets a coffee and I get a croissant. There are dozens of little sparrow birds flying around inside the train terminal and they are quite aggressive when it comes to crumbs. In fact, after one keeps getting the crumbs I toss mid-flight, I hold out a crumb and the bird takes it directly from my hand. I wish we'd taken a photo, but sometimes I just try to enjoy the moment.
We get on the train, #8507, TGV to Angouleme and points South. My first impression is, "these trains aren't as nice as the Spanish AVE high speed trains." Nor do they have the same airport- style security they have in the Madrid train station. I noted the security difference back in 2005 and I'm surprised it's still so lax compared to Spain. Then again, the French did not have terrorists blow up their trains.
October 7, 2008</b>
We are up at 5:45 AM and out on the street for our pre-arranged taxi at 6:45. Unfortunately, there does not seem to be any way to get to Gare Montparnasse from our hotel at that time of the morning via public transportation. At the hotel, they told us when we booked the taxi there would be a surcharge for the early morning pick up and the meter would start running from where ever the cab came from to pick us up. There would also be a per bag charge.
There's 11 euro on the meter when the cab arrives. Yikes. The total cost for the trip to the train station is 19.5 euros.
Once inside the station Mom gets a coffee and I get a croissant. There are dozens of little sparrow birds flying around inside the train terminal and they are quite aggressive when it comes to crumbs. In fact, after one keeps getting the crumbs I toss mid-flight, I hold out a crumb and the bird takes it directly from my hand. I wish we'd taken a photo, but sometimes I just try to enjoy the moment.
We get on the train, #8507, TGV to Angouleme and points South. My first impression is, "these trains aren't as nice as the Spanish AVE high speed trains." Nor do they have the same airport- style security they have in the Madrid train station. I noted the security difference back in 2005 and I'm surprised it's still so lax compared to Spain. Then again, the French did not have terrorists blow up their trains.
Oct 23rd, 2008, 10:43 AM
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<b>43 Indians on a Train...</b>
The car is empty and then suddenly the door at one end opens and a mass of people begins to spill inside. They are all chattering away, loaded down with luggage, looking at tickets, stopping, clogging the aisle and all are dressed as if on expedition in the Swiss Alps with knit caps and scarves.
They are obviously a tour group as they have matching caps or bags with the same logo on them. It's chaos.
A woman in her late 20's, along with her mother, takes the seats in front of us. She is wearing a t-shirt and Levis, the only one not dressed for the arctic.
I ask her if she speaks English and where they are from. She explains they are all from India, specifically the hot southern part called Kerala, which explains the winter wear, even though it's only about 50 degrees outside.
I ask if they are on a tour and she replies "Unfortunately, but now I am regretting it." She is clearly embarrassed by her tour companions, most of whom have obviously never traveled out of their country before.
There are 43 of them and they are on a Catholic tour of holy places.
They are on their way from Paris to Lourdes. After that, they will go to Rome and Israel and Jordan. It exhausts me just to think about it.
She says the chaos is because the tickets the tour company gave them only have the car number on them, no seats, so no one knows where to sit and they keep having to move as other passengers board. She's very sweet and I would have enjoyed talking to her more, but unfortunately they have to move seats again before I can ask her where she learned such perfect English, including such colloquial phrases as "musical chairs".
The trip to Angouleme is uneventful after that, save the non-stop movement of the Indian passengers which includes videotaping the entire train car, walking up and down the aisles sharing a big bag of spiced snacks and the afore-mentioned "musical chairs".
The car is empty and then suddenly the door at one end opens and a mass of people begins to spill inside. They are all chattering away, loaded down with luggage, looking at tickets, stopping, clogging the aisle and all are dressed as if on expedition in the Swiss Alps with knit caps and scarves.
They are obviously a tour group as they have matching caps or bags with the same logo on them. It's chaos.
A woman in her late 20's, along with her mother, takes the seats in front of us. She is wearing a t-shirt and Levis, the only one not dressed for the arctic.
I ask her if she speaks English and where they are from. She explains they are all from India, specifically the hot southern part called Kerala, which explains the winter wear, even though it's only about 50 degrees outside.
I ask if they are on a tour and she replies "Unfortunately, but now I am regretting it." She is clearly embarrassed by her tour companions, most of whom have obviously never traveled out of their country before.
There are 43 of them and they are on a Catholic tour of holy places.
They are on their way from Paris to Lourdes. After that, they will go to Rome and Israel and Jordan. It exhausts me just to think about it.
She says the chaos is because the tickets the tour company gave them only have the car number on them, no seats, so no one knows where to sit and they keep having to move as other passengers board. She's very sweet and I would have enjoyed talking to her more, but unfortunately they have to move seats again before I can ask her where she learned such perfect English, including such colloquial phrases as "musical chairs".
The trip to Angouleme is uneventful after that, save the non-stop movement of the Indian passengers which includes videotaping the entire train car, walking up and down the aisles sharing a big bag of spiced snacks and the afore-mentioned "musical chairs".
Oct 23rd, 2008, 12:01 PM
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For those reading this and worrying about an early departure in Paris, the métro lines start their runs around 5:15 a.m.
I am surprised that the Indian tour group had no assigned seats. My impression is that when purchasing a TGV ticket, one automatically gets a reserved seat.
I am surprised that the Indian tour group had no assigned seats. My impression is that when purchasing a TGV ticket, one automatically gets a reserved seat.
Oct 23rd, 2008, 12:17 PM
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Yes, we could have taken the metro, but it would have involved 2 different lines and a lot of walking. Had I been alone, I might have considered it.
Turns out, the passage between the metro and the train station at Montparnasse is very, very long. Had I known this, on the return to Paris I might have considered taking a cab to our hotel, just to avoid the whining. ;-)
I was also surprised the Indian tourists had no assigned seats, yet they had no problems with their tickets when the ticket taker came through.
Oct 23rd, 2008, 12:58 PM
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I realize what I wrote was misleading, "there does not seem to be any way to get to Gare Montparnasse from our hotel at that time of the morning via public transportation".
Yes, there is a way. Metro. Probably bus too.
I should have said "no easy or convenient way".
Yes, there is a way. Metro. Probably bus too.
I should have said "no easy or convenient way".
Oct 23rd, 2008, 03:34 PM
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Hi K~
I'm LCI's Momarama.....lovin' your trip report and I think that your Mom is my "new best-friend".WOW..we both packed carry-on and we love coffee and WINE..looking forward to the 'rest of the story'.
I'm LCI's Momarama.....lovin' your trip report and I think that your Mom is my "new best-friend".WOW..we both packed carry-on and we love coffee and WINE..looking forward to the 'rest of the story'.
Oct 23rd, 2008, 05:49 PM
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Silverswan- I am honored. And I will tell my Mom you post here too! Now if only you can get your daughter to post the trip report and photos...
A little more for tonight...
At the Angouleme train station, the EuroCar office is across the street. We roll on over there and the woman behind the desk is incredibly rude. I think she is pissed because we don't speak French. Or maybe she's just not a nice person.
Snippy, she says, "The car is brand new. You must return it perfect! It must be as clean as when you pick it up today or you will be charged".
Since when do you have to wash and vacuum a rental car before returning it? But sure enough, there is a stamp on the contract that if the car is not clean we will be charged a "cleaning fee". We later learn this same woman is rude to some of our friends who pick up a car in the same place.
I have printed out Google Map instructions for every step of the way between Angouleme and Grand Brassac.
We set out from the parking lot and promptly get lost within 3 blocks.
We drive in circles around Angouleme for about a 1/2 hour until by some miracle, we end up on the right road out of town. In the end, we miss many more turns and it takes us 2.5 hours to go what should take an hour.
At one point, we stop at a Carrefour and I introduce my mom to the joys of the french <i>Hypermarche</i>. Kinda like a Super-Wallmart and always a toilet when you need one. Also a good place to buy clothes, food, house wares and have a meal in a decent cafeteria. David and I stopped at many while doing our RTW trip because the cafeteria meals were a really good budget option.
And I will tell my Mom you post here too! Now if only you can get your daughter to post the trip report and photos...A little more for tonight...
At the Angouleme train station, the EuroCar office is across the street. We roll on over there and the woman behind the desk is incredibly rude. I think she is pissed because we don't speak French. Or maybe she's just not a nice person.
Snippy, she says, "The car is brand new. You must return it perfect! It must be as clean as when you pick it up today or you will be charged".
Since when do you have to wash and vacuum a rental car before returning it? But sure enough, there is a stamp on the contract that if the car is not clean we will be charged a "cleaning fee". We later learn this same woman is rude to some of our friends who pick up a car in the same place.
I have printed out Google Map instructions for every step of the way between Angouleme and Grand Brassac.
We set out from the parking lot and promptly get lost within 3 blocks.
We drive in circles around Angouleme for about a 1/2 hour until by some miracle, we end up on the right road out of town. In the end, we miss many more turns and it takes us 2.5 hours to go what should take an hour.
At one point, we stop at a Carrefour and I introduce my mom to the joys of the french <i>Hypermarche</i>. Kinda like a Super-Wallmart and always a toilet when you need one. Also a good place to buy clothes, food, house wares and have a meal in a decent cafeteria. David and I stopped at many while doing our RTW trip because the cafeteria meals were a really good budget option.
Oct 24th, 2008, 11:09 AM
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Finally, we arrive in Grand Brassac and find our B&B, called La Boisserie.
It is an absolutely lovely old manor home. The owners, Dominique and Caroline de Mercey have lived here for 4 years and have turned it into a 4 room B&B since buying it. Both speak a fair amount of English. There is both a cat with a predilection for love nips if you pet her "too much" and a very happy big yellow dog.
Our room, the Agapanthe room shown on their website (link at top of report), opens out onto the garden in back. It is enormous and the bathroom is as big as my bedroom at home. Someone here is an artist, or very connected to the art world as there are modern art paintings on the walls of the common room and many art magazines and books. The decor is somewhat "modern" but done with impeccable style and taste and mixed with antiques. There's a pool for use in the summer and I find myself wishing I had a week here just to read, write and relax.
But we have things to do, places to go and people to see! So after a tour of the property by Caroline, we head out to find our friends and the Chateau Marouatte (http://www.chateaumarouatte.co.uk/).
We find the Chateau with no problem. It is only a 5 minute or so drive from the B&B along a narrow country highway. We pull in through the gates and yep, it's a freakin' <i>castle</i>! Wow.
After finding people in the kitchen and getting reacquainted with everyone, our friend C. gives us the grand tour. The place is incredible and <i>huge</i>. We get to go in all the towers (which have bedrooms in them), see all the rooms, and even check out the <i>pigeonaire</i> which once housed 3000 pigeons! I find myself wishing my husband were here because I know he would love exploring all the nooks and crannies and opening every little door.
The castle even has a resident cat named Lily. Much to everyone's joy, she is a big love and is completely spoiled throughout the duration of their stay.
It is an absolutely lovely old manor home. The owners, Dominique and Caroline de Mercey have lived here for 4 years and have turned it into a 4 room B&B since buying it. Both speak a fair amount of English. There is both a cat with a predilection for love nips if you pet her "too much" and a very happy big yellow dog.
Our room, the Agapanthe room shown on their website (link at top of report), opens out onto the garden in back. It is enormous and the bathroom is as big as my bedroom at home. Someone here is an artist, or very connected to the art world as there are modern art paintings on the walls of the common room and many art magazines and books. The decor is somewhat "modern" but done with impeccable style and taste and mixed with antiques. There's a pool for use in the summer and I find myself wishing I had a week here just to read, write and relax.
But we have things to do, places to go and people to see! So after a tour of the property by Caroline, we head out to find our friends and the Chateau Marouatte (http://www.chateaumarouatte.co.uk/).
We find the Chateau with no problem. It is only a 5 minute or so drive from the B&B along a narrow country highway. We pull in through the gates and yep, it's a freakin' <i>castle</i>! Wow.
After finding people in the kitchen and getting reacquainted with everyone, our friend C. gives us the grand tour. The place is incredible and <i>huge</i>. We get to go in all the towers (which have bedrooms in them), see all the rooms, and even check out the <i>pigeonaire</i> which once housed 3000 pigeons! I find myself wishing my husband were here because I know he would love exploring all the nooks and crannies and opening every little door.
The castle even has a resident cat named Lily. Much to everyone's joy, she is a big love and is completely spoiled throughout the duration of their stay.
Oct 26th, 2008, 05:19 PM
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You all still with me here? Sorry it's taking me so long, editing all the photos for the website is agonizing and takes forever.
<b>End of Day 4</b>
After our castle tour, we leave with a plan to return at 6:30 to join everyone for a casual dinner. We discuss the menu with our friend M. and then the guys are going to go shopping and come back with food for dinner. We offer our assistance with the cooking.
Before going back to the B&B, we take a drive a nearby town called Bourdeilles. It's an adorable little village with a river running through it and a castle of it's own. Unfortunately, the castle is closed on Tuesdays and it's starting to rain, so we make a quick stop in the tourist office, grab a map and do a short loop walk around town before leaving.
At 6:30, we go back to the chateau and of course the shopping party is no where to be found. After a some discussion about the possibility of dinner not being served until 11:30, Mom and I decide that we will <i>insist</i> on being allowed to cook dinner. We drink wine, and eat fabulous cheese and local pate while we wait. It's not exactly a hardship.
When the guys return, a little after 8PM, we grab the bags and M. very graciously allows us to cook. Mom and I go into full party cooking mode (we do sit-down Thanksgiving dinner for 25 every year...), with everyone else pitching in to help.
We make potatoes roasted in duck fat with garlic and herbs, sauteed <i>haricot verte</i> (green beans) with lemon and garlic, and other friends make a fantastic salad. I do a green peppercorn <i>a poivre</i> sauce, substituting scotch for the brandy because we have none and it works just fine!
But the most fun to cook are the steaks. M. has bought two huge packages of thinly cut beef steak. How to cook them all at once with no grill? Fortunately, in the kitchen there is a gas stove and a wood burning stove which has a flat surface on top. C's dad stokes the wood stove extra hot and I cook the steaks, all 18 of them, on the flat top like I'm back in the restaurant ( I used to be a chef). Somehow we manage to get dinner for 14 on the table by 9:30PM.
M. and I sit together at one end of the table, the two of us celebrating our 40th birthdays this month. We all have a champagne toast and fantastic red wine (purchased at a local winery) with our wonderful meal. It's very late when we finally make it back to the B&B.
<b>End of Day 4</b>
After our castle tour, we leave with a plan to return at 6:30 to join everyone for a casual dinner. We discuss the menu with our friend M. and then the guys are going to go shopping and come back with food for dinner. We offer our assistance with the cooking.
Before going back to the B&B, we take a drive a nearby town called Bourdeilles. It's an adorable little village with a river running through it and a castle of it's own. Unfortunately, the castle is closed on Tuesdays and it's starting to rain, so we make a quick stop in the tourist office, grab a map and do a short loop walk around town before leaving.
At 6:30, we go back to the chateau and of course the shopping party is no where to be found. After a some discussion about the possibility of dinner not being served until 11:30, Mom and I decide that we will <i>insist</i> on being allowed to cook dinner. We drink wine, and eat fabulous cheese and local pate while we wait. It's not exactly a hardship.
When the guys return, a little after 8PM, we grab the bags and M. very graciously allows us to cook. Mom and I go into full party cooking mode (we do sit-down Thanksgiving dinner for 25 every year...), with everyone else pitching in to help.
We make potatoes roasted in duck fat with garlic and herbs, sauteed <i>haricot verte</i> (green beans) with lemon and garlic, and other friends make a fantastic salad. I do a green peppercorn <i>a poivre</i> sauce, substituting scotch for the brandy because we have none and it works just fine!
But the most fun to cook are the steaks. M. has bought two huge packages of thinly cut beef steak. How to cook them all at once with no grill? Fortunately, in the kitchen there is a gas stove and a wood burning stove which has a flat surface on top. C's dad stokes the wood stove extra hot and I cook the steaks, all 18 of them, on the flat top like I'm back in the restaurant ( I used to be a chef). Somehow we manage to get dinner for 14 on the table by 9:30PM.
M. and I sit together at one end of the table, the two of us celebrating our 40th birthdays this month. We all have a champagne toast and fantastic red wine (purchased at a local winery) with our wonderful meal. It's very late when we finally make it back to the B&B.
