Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report
Oct 17th, 2008, 04:20 AM
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I am very much enjoying your trip report and website! Thanks for such detailed reporting. I am sad that you may not finish it today as we are leaving for Paris and the Dordogne tomorrow! (Think you could speed it up???)
One question - how difficult was it to ride the RER (with bags)- change at St Michel and get up to street level at Cardinal Lemoine? Was there an escalator? This route would be a good one for us as we are staying on rue Rollin close to Cardinal Lemoine. Our bags are almost exactly like yours - so just wondering how you managed. Thanks!
One question - how difficult was it to ride the RER (with bags)- change at St Michel and get up to street level at Cardinal Lemoine? Was there an escalator? This route would be a good one for us as we are staying on rue Rollin close to Cardinal Lemoine. Our bags are almost exactly like yours - so just wondering how you managed. Thanks!
Oct 17th, 2008, 05:37 AM
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blh-Sorry, probably won't get to any new reports until tonight.
The RER wasn't bad, even with the transfers. Yes, you will have to haul your bags up and down some stairs though and there are a couple of long hallways.
offwego-Hi Lori!
Will email you...
Therese- hi-been meaning to do some follow up on your packing thread about my trip and what worked (and what didn't).
Aussie-Thanks, more to come soon.
The RER wasn't bad, even with the transfers. Yes, you will have to haul your bags up and down some stairs though and there are a couple of long hallways.
offwego-Hi Lori!
Will email you...Therese- hi-been meaning to do some follow up on your packing thread about my trip and what worked (and what didn't).
Aussie-Thanks, more to come soon.
Oct 17th, 2008, 07:00 AM
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By the way, next time I fly overseas, I will pay you to come to my house and pack for me. I am such an over-packer. I'm amazed at what you got in a 22" carryon and a small bag.
Oh, and I meant to say this earlier, happy belated birthday!
Johanna
Oh, and I meant to say this earlier, happy belated birthday!
Johanna
Oct 17th, 2008, 07:40 AM
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I don't think this will be in time for blh, but one way we handle the RER thing is to take the RER from the airport to a major station then get in a taxi for the last haul.
But we are older and having dragged our luggage from Pennsylvania to Paris is quite enough for us. We get the taxi for that last bit.
But we are older and having dragged our luggage from Pennsylvania to Paris is quite enough for us. We get the taxi for that last bit.
Oct 17th, 2008, 08:59 AM
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Thanks, tuscanlifeedit. Yes, we had thought about doing just that-and for that reason. We could get off the RER at St Michel or we could get off at Luxembourg. I had wondered about taxi stands at those locations. Had also considered riding the Roissy bus and getting a taxi from the drop off.
Maybe I should post a question and get feedback from others as well.
Maybe I should post a question and get feedback from others as well.
Oct 17th, 2008, 09:20 AM
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Hi, Kristina. Looking to your adding some cool packing trips to that thread (hmm, must go find link). I've got some more to share myself, having just returned from another trip (which was long haul domestic, but pretty much all the same rules apply).
Oct 17th, 2008, 09:28 AM
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I love the area around the Place Monge. Moufftard is there, but it really is less touristy feeling than many other areas so close to the center of Paris. I good hotel for the value in a great part of the city.
Oct 17th, 2008, 10:35 AM
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<b>Paris Day 2
October 5, 2008
"Museorama" Day</b>
Today is the first Sunday of the month in Paris which means most of the museums are free. This also means they are crowded, but no matter, I have big plans for us to take advantage of the cost savings.
You can see a list of what's free when here:
http://en.parisinfo.com/guide-paris/...and-good-deals
At the bottom of that page are the links to what's free on the first Sunday of the month.
Armed with a list of which museums are free today, we set out for the grand-daddy of them all, the Louvre. The goal is to be there when they open, 9AM, and we arrive a few minutes shortly thereafter. It's starting to rain and there's a small line outside the pyramid, but it moves fast. It's already getting crowded inside. Because the Louvre can be overwhelming, I decide we are going to just hit the highlights and I've printed off a 1.5 hour walking tour from the Louvre's own web site. Look for the "accessible self guided tour and click on the printer icon on the first page to get a printable version.
This tour turns out to be a good way to see the "greatest hits" but it's not that well organized. It has us walking in circles, using elevators when we could be taking a much shorter route using stairs. Only now do I realize that the word "accessible" is key here. No stairs. I think the tour is a good one, but some of the directions were misleading or just did not make sense. Use the free map they give out and try to go your own way as well.
Anyway, the tour starts with the Venus de Milo and hits such highlights as the Mona Lisa, The Wedding Feast at Cana, the Odalisque, the Raft of the
Medusa, and my own personal favorite, the Winged Victory of Samothrace.
One interesting thing is that this is the tail end of "Fashion Week" in Paris when all the major designers are showing their lines. Inside the
Louvre taking up an entire courtyard, is a giant tent where it appears some of the shows are being held.
After a couple of hours, we're exhausted and head to the cafe inside the Louvre for a coffee. Unfortunately, the "cafeteria" is closed and only the smaller cafe is open. There's a long line, but we are desperate. The coffee is horrible, out of one of those push button machines, and almost
undrinkable. Bad coffee is an unforgivable sin anywhere in Mediterranean Europe if you ask me. But it's good to get off our feet for a few minutes.
October 5, 2008
"Museorama" Day</b>
Today is the first Sunday of the month in Paris which means most of the museums are free. This also means they are crowded, but no matter, I have big plans for us to take advantage of the cost savings.
You can see a list of what's free when here:
http://en.parisinfo.com/guide-paris/...and-good-deals
At the bottom of that page are the links to what's free on the first Sunday of the month.
Armed with a list of which museums are free today, we set out for the grand-daddy of them all, the Louvre. The goal is to be there when they open, 9AM, and we arrive a few minutes shortly thereafter. It's starting to rain and there's a small line outside the pyramid, but it moves fast. It's already getting crowded inside. Because the Louvre can be overwhelming, I decide we are going to just hit the highlights and I've printed off a 1.5 hour walking tour from the Louvre's own web site. Look for the "accessible self guided tour and click on the printer icon on the first page to get a printable version.
This tour turns out to be a good way to see the "greatest hits" but it's not that well organized. It has us walking in circles, using elevators when we could be taking a much shorter route using stairs. Only now do I realize that the word "accessible" is key here. No stairs. I think the tour is a good one, but some of the directions were misleading or just did not make sense. Use the free map they give out and try to go your own way as well.
Anyway, the tour starts with the Venus de Milo and hits such highlights as the Mona Lisa, The Wedding Feast at Cana, the Odalisque, the Raft of the
Medusa, and my own personal favorite, the Winged Victory of Samothrace.
One interesting thing is that this is the tail end of "Fashion Week" in Paris when all the major designers are showing their lines. Inside the
Louvre taking up an entire courtyard, is a giant tent where it appears some of the shows are being held.
After a couple of hours, we're exhausted and head to the cafe inside the Louvre for a coffee. Unfortunately, the "cafeteria" is closed and only the smaller cafe is open. There's a long line, but we are desperate. The coffee is horrible, out of one of those push button machines, and almost
undrinkable. Bad coffee is an unforgivable sin anywhere in Mediterranean Europe if you ask me. But it's good to get off our feet for a few minutes.
Oct 17th, 2008, 04:55 PM
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More from day 2...
The next stop on the Museorama tour is the Orangerie. For some reason, every time I've been in Paris previously, this museum has been closed so I'm getting to see it for the first time too.
To get there, we walk though the Tuilleries, taking time to stop and sit at one of the fountains, even though it's very windy and cold. When we get to the museum, there is a long line outside, but we decide to wait because it's clear every time someone exits, they let some people in. The amount of people inside appears to be strictly controlled.
We wait for about 20 min and then we are inside where we find there is a coat check. This is nice, not to have to carry them around with us.
The museum is lovely and showcases Monet's extraordinary water lilies series, lit by skylights. Downstairs, there are other exhibits, but honestly, I cannot remember what they were.
After the Orangerie I look at my restaurant list and see one which I think should be nearby. It's a little wine bar called Le Rubis and it's on Rue du Marche Saint Honore. I look at the map and Rue Saint Honore is close by so it can't be that far, right?
Ok, here's where my list and my map fail me again. The address is #10. When we get to Saint Honore the addresses are in the 300's and we start walking. We walk all the way to the end, near Les Halles, and can't find the place! Somewhere along the way, my mother loses one of her gloves.
I realize that either I have the address wrong or we've missed it somehow so we head for a place across from St Eustache where I'd been on a previous trip. Today the menu did not appeal, so we keep walking. It's now becoming silly (how far we've walked) and we are in imminent danger of breaking Golden Rule #1 (http://www.wired2theworld.com/GoldenRulesfortravel.html).
The next stop on the Museorama tour is the Orangerie. For some reason, every time I've been in Paris previously, this museum has been closed so I'm getting to see it for the first time too.
To get there, we walk though the Tuilleries, taking time to stop and sit at one of the fountains, even though it's very windy and cold. When we get to the museum, there is a long line outside, but we decide to wait because it's clear every time someone exits, they let some people in. The amount of people inside appears to be strictly controlled.
We wait for about 20 min and then we are inside where we find there is a coat check. This is nice, not to have to carry them around with us.
The museum is lovely and showcases Monet's extraordinary water lilies series, lit by skylights. Downstairs, there are other exhibits, but honestly, I cannot remember what they were.
After the Orangerie I look at my restaurant list and see one which I think should be nearby. It's a little wine bar called Le Rubis and it's on Rue du Marche Saint Honore. I look at the map and Rue Saint Honore is close by so it can't be that far, right?
Ok, here's where my list and my map fail me again. The address is #10. When we get to Saint Honore the addresses are in the 300's and we start walking. We walk all the way to the end, near Les Halles, and can't find the place! Somewhere along the way, my mother loses one of her gloves.
I realize that either I have the address wrong or we've missed it somehow so we head for a place across from St Eustache where I'd been on a previous trip. Today the menu did not appeal, so we keep walking. It's now becoming silly (how far we've walked) and we are in imminent danger of breaking Golden Rule #1 (http://www.wired2theworld.com/GoldenRulesfortravel.html).
Oct 18th, 2008, 05:22 AM
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re: <<I had to "cut and paste" the text info from the maps into a word document which I could then reorganize by neighborhood>>
Did you know that you can just drag and drop to rearrange places in the left column?
Did you know that you can just drag and drop to rearrange places in the left column?
Oct 18th, 2008, 06:29 AM
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"Did you know that you can just drag and drop to rearrange places in the left column?"
No, but I just tried that and it doesn't work for me. In fact, I tried it twice, and both times it caused a microsoft error which closed internet explorer.
Please, tell me how you got that to work! I'm feeling a little dumb here.
No, but I just tried that and it doesn't work for me. In fact, I tried it twice, and both times it caused a microsoft error which closed internet explorer.
Please, tell me how you got that to work! I'm feeling a little dumb here.
Oct 18th, 2008, 07:09 AM
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After much discussion, and much more walking, we end up at Le Grand Colbert an old fashioned traditional bistro featured in the movie called "Something's Gotta Give" with Diane Keaton and Jack Nicholson.
The restaurant is full when we enter and we are asked to take a seat at the bar where we order a couple of glasses of Sancerre and Chablis and are given little cups of olives and freshly made potato chips to snack on. After about 10 minutes of sipping our wine and perusing the menu, we are seated at a table in the front window. We order all appetizers to share; an artichoke salad (12 euro), frogs legs with lots of butter and garlic (16 euro), Chevre with pears and figs (14 euro), and a side of french fries (don't ask why, but they were good!) (5 euro). Everything was enjoyable, though some of the food seemed slightly under-seasoned. Still, it was a relaxing and satisfying lunch. Le Grand Colbert (4, Rue Vivienne, 75002, 01 42 86 87 88, open 12PM to 1AM, non-stop, every day)
Next stop on the Museorama tour is supposed to be the Musee d'Orsay but by the time we get there the line is absolutely enormous and looks to have about a 2 hour wait. Neither one of us is up for that. After consulting the list and seeing there's nothing else in the area we want to check out, we head back to the hotel for a rest.
At the hotel, the wifi problems start. The connection goes in and out. The 24 hour card we bought loses time faster than the actual clock. The people down at the desk are of no help and are unaware that everyone in the hotel who as bought a card has been complaining of problems. My husband manages to Skype me, but we have a hard time keeping the connection and I have to move downstairs to the breakfast room. At least I am able to talk to him via the web cam for a few minutes before it disconnects for good.
The restaurant is full when we enter and we are asked to take a seat at the bar where we order a couple of glasses of Sancerre and Chablis and are given little cups of olives and freshly made potato chips to snack on. After about 10 minutes of sipping our wine and perusing the menu, we are seated at a table in the front window. We order all appetizers to share; an artichoke salad (12 euro), frogs legs with lots of butter and garlic (16 euro), Chevre with pears and figs (14 euro), and a side of french fries (don't ask why, but they were good!) (5 euro). Everything was enjoyable, though some of the food seemed slightly under-seasoned. Still, it was a relaxing and satisfying lunch. Le Grand Colbert (4, Rue Vivienne, 75002, 01 42 86 87 88, open 12PM to 1AM, non-stop, every day)
Next stop on the Museorama tour is supposed to be the Musee d'Orsay but by the time we get there the line is absolutely enormous and looks to have about a 2 hour wait. Neither one of us is up for that. After consulting the list and seeing there's nothing else in the area we want to check out, we head back to the hotel for a rest.
At the hotel, the wifi problems start. The connection goes in and out. The 24 hour card we bought loses time faster than the actual clock. The people down at the desk are of no help and are unaware that everyone in the hotel who as bought a card has been complaining of problems. My husband manages to Skype me, but we have a hard time keeping the connection and I have to move downstairs to the breakfast room. At least I am able to talk to him via the web cam for a few minutes before it disconnects for good.
Oct 18th, 2008, 09:53 AM
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<<caused a microsoft error which closed internet explorer.>>
Hmm, just tried it in Internet Explorer and it doesn't seem to work there. In Firefox, after clicking "edit", the entries can be dragged and dropped.
Hmm, just tried it in Internet Explorer and it doesn't seem to work there. In Firefox, after clicking "edit", the entries can be dragged and dropped.
Oct 18th, 2008, 10:00 AM
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It was also in Firefox that all the icons remained on the map when I clicked "print"-- that's why earlier I didn't know what you meant about not being able to print out the map with info on it. Now I see that in IE, the info doesn't show up for printing.
