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Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report

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Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report

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Old Oct 18th, 2008, 11:52 AM
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Next stop on the <i>Museorama</i> tour is supposed to be the Musee d'Orsay but by the time we get there the line is absolutely enormous and looks to have about a 2 hour wait. Neither one of us is up for that.
After consulting the list and seeing there's nothing else in the area we want to check out right now, we head back to the hotel for a rest. But first, we walk through the Place de la Contrescarpe and down Rue Mouffetard a ways. It's here that I can see why some people say the 5th is &quot;too touristy&quot; for them.

At the hotel, the wifi problems start. The connection goes in and out. The 24 hour card we bought loses time faster than the actual clock. The people down at the desk are different than those there yesterday and are of no help because they are unaware that everyone in the hotel who as bought a card has been complaining of problems. My husband manages to contact me on my computer via Skype, but we have a hard time keeping the connection and I have to move downstairs to the breakfast room. At least I am able to talk to him via the web cam for a few minutes before it disconnects for good.

For dinner, we set out with no reservations. Our first choice, a place called Le Petit Pontoise is full. We head out to another which doesn't grab us once we get there and we eventually end up at Brasserie Balzar where even though it appears full we are whisked inside and seated at a tiny table, surrounded by other tourists and given a menu in English.
Brasserie Balzar is a member of the Brasserie Flo restaurant group of which I am a fan. My husband and I have been to their restaurant Terminus Nord a number of times, as well as Bofinger and very much enjoyed our meals there. This, however, was a different story. The menu looked &quot;blah&quot; and uninteresting, and the restaurant was stiflingly hot. I mean, take-off-all-your-clothes and it's still too hot, hot. We look at each other, discuss for about 10 seconds, and get up and leave.

In short order, we are outside in the blessedly cool air and walking to another place called Bouillon Racine, recommended to me by my father in law as a good, basic brasserie. It was also very hot inside, but as soon as we entered, they turned off the heaters over the doorway. It's a very pretty place, filled with lots of Art Nouveau touches.

My mother orders the lamb which comes out braised and falling off the bone. I order the duck and 5 minutes later the server is back to tell me they are out of duck. So instead, I get the beefsteak and while it's perfectly cooked, it's a bit tough and both my sauce and potatoes are lukewarm when they hit the table. We each have a glass of wine and the total for dinner is 47 euro. Bouillon Racine, 3, Rue Racine 75006, 01 44 32 15 60, Open daily, Noon to 11PM
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Old Oct 18th, 2008, 12:04 PM
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MMeFifi-Thanks for checking that in IE. I thought I was going crazy. Next time I do one of those maps, maybe I will use Firefox!
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Old Oct 18th, 2008, 12:12 PM
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Kristina,

Thanks so much for posting your trip report - I'd taken a look at your website(and bookmarked it), but I didn't put together that I had read your Italy trip report until you listed your &quot;golden rules&quot; link!

I really like your writing style - well organized and easy to read, but not at all boring in a list off the facts sort of way.

You went in the beginning of October? I know you mentioned that it was 45 degrees one morning, but was it really that cold your entire trip? That's colder than normal for early October right? If not, I seriously have to rethink going back to Paris in early October

Keep up the posts!
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Old Oct 18th, 2008, 12:32 PM
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Anna- No, it wan't that cold all day, just very early in the morning.
The first couple of days there were cold and rainy. Later in the week it was absolutly beautiful during the day and chilly at night.
I think October is like that; generally &quot;fall&quot; weather and a bit unpredictable from one day to the next.
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Old Oct 18th, 2008, 02:30 PM
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Photos from Day 2 are now posted at http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008Day2.html

In addition, I added a few to day 1 because I finally got copies of all my Mom's pictures. I usually come home with no pictures of myself because I'm always behind the camera. But this trip I asked my Mom to take 1 picture per day of me so at least I'd have something with me in it.
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Old Oct 18th, 2008, 03:46 PM
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Really enjoying your report, Kristina! Keep it coming, please!
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Old Oct 20th, 2008, 08:27 PM
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<b>Paris Day 3
October 6, 2008</b>

We're a little later than we'd like to be this morning, but we get it together and get to the metro and over to the Musee Jaquemart Andre in the 8th. Admission is 10 euro each and comes with an excellent audio guide to walk you through the rooms.

This is a house museum, built in the mid 1800's by a couple who were avid art collectors. Theirs is an interesting story (married late, no children, traveled the world in search of spectacular art) as is the construction of the house (entire walls fall away into the basement to open up the ground floor into a grand ballroom). We very much enjoyed our time wandering through the rooms and admiring the collection. Unfortunately, no photographs are allowed inside. My other disappointment is that while the tour shows all of their apartments and public rooms, it does not show the kitchen or servants quarters. It seems to be common in houses and castles not to show these &quot;behind the scenes&quot; places , yet these are the things I would find most fascinating.

Afterwards, we decide to go to their cafe/tea room for a coffee. We are asked if we want to sit inside or out. The room inside is about half full and outside, which is really just a covered balcony, only has only table with people at it. We sit outside and are given a menu. When the waitress comes up, she recites the day's specials. We tell her we'd only like coffee and she makes a face and says, in English, &quot;only for lunch sit here.&quot; We ask if we can just have coffee and she says no. At that point, we're ready to go. It just seems arbitrary and we are no longer in the mood for coffee or to switch tables &quot;just because&quot; that we take it as a sign and leave.

We set out walking and end up going through the Place de Madeline. We walk all the way around the square, stopping to admire the windows of the many gourmet food shops like Fauchon and to visit the famous Porcher underground bathroom built in 1904 with it's stained glass, decorative wood stalls each with their own individual sinks. You can see more on it where I wrote about it during our 2005 trip here (http://www.wired2theworld.com/paris2005day3and4.html).
We even stop in the Maille mustard store, but buy nothing because it would mean we'd have to check our bags on the way home. I can buy Maille mustard in the US (and yes, I know the fresh stuff there is better, but I don't like mustard <i>that much</i.

From the Place de Madeline, we walk down the Rue Saint-Honore again, intent on finding the place we looked for yesterday, Le Rubis. By now I have realized my mistake; we had the wrong street, not the wrong address. Rue <i>Marche</i> Saint Honore is not on my map, but there is a <i>Place</i> of the same name and I figure the street must run through it (duh!). And in due course, we find it easily enough, feeling only slightly stupid in the process.
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Old Oct 20th, 2008, 10:54 PM
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Just thought I would post a reminder here to people about the Paris Museum Pass. You can purchase a pass for 2,4, or 6 days and it gives you unlimited access to many museums and monuments without queuing! In my opinion, just for bypassing the queues it is worth it...but you need to check the museums you want to go to and their prices to make sure. I do not know if someone who purchased the pass and then went on the free Sunday (as Christina did) can still bypass the queues or not.
http://www.parismuseumpass.com/en/home.php
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 04:25 AM
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Great trip report, thanks for posting.
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 06:22 AM
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Kristina I was in Paris the week before you so reading your posts bring back so many wonderful memories.

Did you design your website yourself or have someone do it? Is it hard to set up? I have always wanted one for myself and friends to view.

I have added your Paris trip to my favorites. Thank you so much with sharing all of this with us
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 07:19 AM
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Madison-I do the website myself. If you look back at some of my older trips you can see the evolution from when my husband and I started it 10 years ago.
I redesigned it a couple of years ago. Right now I use a program called &quot;Dreamweaver&quot; and I'm completely self-taught, so in general, it's an exercise in frustration and I certainly don't use the program to its fullest capacity.
An easier way to do it is to get a free &quot;blog&quot; which has pre-set templates to use.
For my purposes though, I don't like the blog format of &quot;last post first&quot;, I prefer my travelougues to be more linear. Plus, I own the domain name and there's no advertising. I like the freedom of doing my own thing.
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 08:48 AM
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Kristina - thank you for your help. I can't wait to explore the rest of your website. It's lovely and SO informative.
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 09:07 AM
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Really enjoying your TR and so many congrats on your site.

Is dreamweaver expensive? I have 30+ binders of trips and our little cottage is getting overrun-your site is an inspiration!

Thanks, DR
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 09:25 AM
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TDudette-
Funny thing about the binders: I rarely print out pictures from our trips any more so most of my photo albums are 10+ years old. OTOH, I have many boxes of paper from each trip (ticket stubs, pamphlets, etc) and I always say I'm going to scrapbook, but rarely do, unless it's for someone else like my Mom.

As for Dreamweaver, I'm not sure of the cost but I think it's a couple hundred dollars. A friend gave my my copy and it's a few years old.

If you are serious about learning web design, I suggest you take a class and save yourself some frustration. There are a lot of very cheap community school classes out there. I, however, don't have the patience for that and suffer because of it.

There are some other costs associated with having your own web site as opposed to a free blog. There's domain name registration which is about $35 a year (this means you OWN the name and it's not a part of another website), but there are discounts for registering multiple years in advance.
And then there's web hosting. I pay about $10 a month through my ISP. The cost has dropped considerably, I used to pay $25 a month!

There's a &quot;you get what you pay for&quot; factor here too. Beware of registration and hosting offers which seem too cheap. There is usually advertsing associated with them or they may be a fly by night operation which later disappears off the web all together taking your website with them (this happened to my Mom).
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 10:02 AM
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<b>Day 3, continued

Le Rubis</b>
Le Rubis (10, Rue du Marche Saint Honore) is an odd little place. There are hand written menus all over the walls, about 7 or 8 tables and a zinc bar.
We think there might be more tables upstairs or in the back, because there is an unmarked door at the back of the bar which people some people walk straight to and go through. We do not know where it leads. Almost every table has what we determine to be the daily special; house made sausage and
lentils (10 euro). My mother orders this and it's fantastic.
All I want is a sandwich. I see a list of them on the wall and ask if I can have one. The proprietress tells me firmly &quot;No!&quot;. Because of the language barrier (my lack of French) I have no idea as to why, or which days sandwiches are available. They have bread. They have meat and cheese. So why no sandwich? Anyway, after a little back and forth, it is determined that I will have a charcuterie plate. I am served a plate heaped with two types of jambon, a strong brie- like cheese, a small plate of cornichons and some fantastic salted butter. Oh, and yes, some bread. It's lovely with a glass of their house Sancerre. Lunch for two is 29 euro.

<b>Fragonard</b>
Next on the itinerary is the Fragonard Perfume museum. Fragonard has several stores in Paris but the one near the Opera at 9 Rue Scribe has a museum upstairs. It's only a few rooms, and it's free, but it's interesting to see all the old tools and methods used for making soaps and perfumes as well as the many ancient and antique containers for holding them. It's free and open every day. Downstairs, we checked out all the perfumes and soaps. Seriously tempted, we did not buy saying we would return when we come back to Paris on Friday. Unfortunately, we did not and I am kicking myself now. Lesson learned, buy when you have the chance.
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 10:13 AM
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Hi Kristina - We ate at Le Bouillon Racine back in 2005. Based on what I wrote on my TR, we didn't think the food was that great either (some dishes were good but some were a blah).
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 10:14 AM
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I've been enjoying your trip report too but a couple of things re webhosting/domain names:

Domain names through godaddy.com are under 10 dollars a year not 35 dollars. To be sure you own the name, don't register at the same place where you have your site hosted.

You can get &quot;unlimited&quot; webspace for as little as 6 or 7 dollars a month these days.

DreamWeaver or any other program is not needed... many places will give you free site building tools if you host with them or you can easily use templates if the actual nuts and bolts of building a site is not your thing.

Rob
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 10:26 AM
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yk- Yeah, Bouillion Racine was not bad, just not spectacular. Honestly, most of our meals this trip were &quot;good&quot; but not &quot;blow my mind&quot; (except a Michelin 2 star lunch still to come).

Thanks Rob for the extra info on web sites.
I can only speak from my personal experience.

I register my domain name through Network Solutions just because I always have. Not sure what the difference it with it and Go Daddy. Maybe nothing. Next time I have to register I will certainly investigate further.

I like to have my site hosted through my ISP because I like having a human I can call 24/7 for tech support if I need it, and I <i>have</i> needed it, because I'm not that tech literate.

And yes, of course, there are many options and programs for building web sites out there. I like Dreamweaver because it's flexable and what I know. But it's certainly complicated and I would not recommend it to a novice. I really should take a class...
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 12:28 PM
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Hmmm...so much to learn and so little time! I do have a couple of blogs but need to expand. Thanks Kristina and Rob.
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 01:43 PM
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<b>End of Day 3</b>

After Fragonard, we go over to the Galleries Lafayette department store to see their truly stunning stained glass coupole (dome) which is over the cosmetics department (7 stories up).
Then we take the escalators up to the roof which has a phenomenal view all over Paris.
Back down on the 7th floor we peruse the offerings at the cafeteria, some of it looks quite good and appears to be very affordable.
Across the street from the main store is the Men's store and on the first floor of that building is the gourmet food store where everything is beautifully arranged and I wish we had an apartment with a kitchen. There are specialty sections for cheese and meat of course, but also sushi, Italian foodstuffs, soups, foie gras, and more. In addition, nowhere else in the world but France have I seen so many different flavors and brands of yogurt. There are 10 flavors of Activia (we only have 3 in the US). I buy some yogurt and a bottle of water even though our room has no 'fridge.

For dinner, we decide to stick close to the hotel and do a quick loop around the Place du Contrascarpe area to peruse the options. We end up at a place
called Le Grenier, which I think specializes in Fondue, though we did not have any. We chose the place because it seemed to be busy yet had an empty table for us. It was probably a little more &quot;touristy&quot; of a restaurant than I prefer, but the food is decent and the owner a very jolly and friendly guy.

There is a large table of British tourists with a guy who is visibly drunk and very loud. Every time he gets up from the table to leave, my mother holds on to our wine glasses, certain he is going to come by and knock them over. The staff is tolerant and the other members of his party, embarrassed. The restaurant quiets considerably when they leave. Service is a bit slow as there is only one server and the owner handling the tables.

We each order off their 16 euro menu. Mom has escargot and a pork tenderloin and I have (another) goat cheese salad and duck confit. We both have ice cream ( a huge sundae) for dessert and share 50cl of house red. Dinner for 2 is 40 euro. Le Grenier (7, rue Mouffetard, 75005, 01 43 54 96 67).
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