Huitres,

Be sure to read M. F. K. Fisher's wonderful book Two Towns in Provence, of which Aix is one and Marseille the other. You will get a real feel for the city.

Huitres - are you familiar with the Route Cezanne where you follow the bronze medallions in the street to his studio? Your toddler would have fun searching for the next medallion. In addition to lovely fountains and squares, Aix has some wonderful sundials. If you have time go to the St-Saveur cathedral. As you enter there's an office on the right. Ask to join the next tour (French only but with a name like huitres you should have no problem). It's only on the tour that you can see the triptych of Mary in the Burning Bush, the west doors with the 4 old testament prophets and the 12th century cloister.

One of my memorable lunches in Aix was sitting outside amidst all the lovely flowers on market day (Tues, Thurs, Sat). The flower market is in the upper square, near the clock tower.

I also recommend the tapestry museum which you can go through quickly.

Some restaurant recommendations all in the old quarter: Chez Jo for pizza and the resto just next to that - La Table Aixois. For dinner - Chez Maxime and Chez Antoine where you can get an outside table with a view on the Cours Mirabeau.

Thank you Underhill & Adrienne...I leave for France on Tuesday a.m. so not sure I get that reading in before departure. Yes, I speak fluent French so the tour you recommended is a definite possibility. Arles is my base this time -- and Aix, Marseille, Montpellier seemed like very nice day trips. I've been to Marseille before, but only waiting for a train connection with not too much time to explore the city, save for a quick dinner! I may return to Nimes for the day as well. I am looking forward to being there soon!

Topping for you good folks, because your exchange is such a pleasure to read. I was going to cook burgers tonight, but instead I think I'll do olives and mushrooms and aubergines and tomatoes and an anchovy if I can decide which brand to buy. Tuna or chicken? J.

Since you are all saying favorable things about Aix, I would like to ask what its population is roughly. We usually try to avoid large cities. Also, how long to drive to Mustiers, or Eze, or Grasse from there.

Wantstotravel,

Believe Aix has population of about 150,000 - roughly half being students. This gives it a lively university-town feel - which in fact, is exactly what it is. We lived there for two years while renovating our place in the Luberon. It's impossible not to love Aix. As for travelling to the places you mentioned, they are all doable from Aix, especially if you don't mind taking the autoroute for part of the way. You can zip down the coast on the autoroute towards Nice and then visit Eze or Grasse easily as a day trip. Same for Moustiers. It's not our preferred way of travelling, but when you want to get from one specific place to another, it can be useful. Anyway, Aix is at the crossroads of the major highways in Provence - so it is a good base for wide explorations of the area-