Hi Fodorites,

Thanks so much to so many of you who helped make this trip so fantanstic. We just got back and I kept a journal, but it's LONG, so I thought I'd post a short trip report and then, for those who like reading long reports, I'll report once I unpack, get some food for the house, water the garden, and take my pup on a much deserved walk (they are so forgivinig!)

Background:
DH and I have both lived in Europe and visited several times, so some of the places we went to are repeats, others new. Main reason for this trip (besides the obvious) is that daughter (DD) is studying with the AHA program in Siena (and having a fantastic time, I might add.)

Itinerary May 2005

May 4 Seattle-Amsterdam
Northwest Airlines

May 5-7Amsterdam
Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel
Kattengat 1
Priceline

May 7—Amsterdam- Venice
Transavia airlines

May 7-10—Venice
Villa Stella
Via Sandro Gallo 111 (Lido)

May 10-May 17—Siena
Palazzo Bruchi
Via Pantaneto 105

May 17-19—Florence
Hotel Villa Belvedere
Via Benedetto Castelli 3
Firenze
www.villa-belvedere.com

May 18—
9:00—Acadamia
13:00—Ufitizzi
20:30—Tosca

May 19—Florence—Madrid—Avila
Meridiana Airlines IG 3613

Five day Parador card
www.Paradores.es

May 19-20—Avila
Parador de Avila
Marques de Canales de Chozas

May 20-21--Salamanca
Parador Nacional de Salamanca
Teso de la Feria

May 21-23—Leon
Parador San Marcos

May 23-24—Segovia
Parador de Segovia
Carretera Valladolid

May 24-25—Madrid
Hotel Tryp Diana
www.

May 25—26—Madrid-Amsterdam
KLM flight

May 25-26—Amsterdam
Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel
Kattengat 1

May 26—Amsterdam—Seattle
Northwest Airlines

Highlights: (not necessarily in this order)
Venice
Siena
Seeing Tosca in Florence
Segovia
Salamanca
The Paradores
Hotel Ville Belevdere in Florence

Disappointments
The crowds in Florence (I realize I’m part of the problem, but still…)
Leon (except for the Parador which was fantastic)

Tips:
VVV card Amsterdam –if main office has long lines, try next door

Make sure you have reservations for the Academia and Ufizzi

If a restaurant is empty at that country’s dinner time, don’t eat there

Best Restaurants: (Not necessarily in this order)
Trattoria Fori Porta on Porto Romano in Siena (thank you Grasshopper)
Trattoria dei Pepei at Piazza del Mercato in Siena (thank you carolw)
Osteria La Sosta in Siena (thank you Mamma Love)
La Giostra in Florence
Restaurante Narizotas in Segovia (thank you Rick Steves)

Worst Restuarants
Meson del Rastro in Avila
Luna something (will try to find in my notes) in Salamanca

Best tapas
(Can’t find the name—but will report back when I do) in Salamanca

Will be more than happy to answer any questions and like I said, will post a longer report soon.

Thanks again all for your help!
Paula

Since we recently flew KLM/NW from Seattle also, am curious: did you layover in Amsterdam because you wanted to sightsee there, or to insure that any flight delays/luggage delays, etc, would catch up?

Paula,

Glad to see that your trip went well. I'm curious as to why was Leon a disappointment?

hopingtotravel,
We flew into Amsterdam because we hadn't been there in several years and wanted to see the museums. Also, we really dislike Heathrow--Schiphol was MUCH EASIER, at least going in (I hardly realized we had gone through customs--it went so smoothly), though going out was a drag due to US Security--incredibly long lines.

We ended up staying an extra night in Amsterdam going out because they couldn't get us back from Madrid on the same day, but this really was fine with me, as it made the flight shorter.

I'm looking forward to the day when we can fly non-stop Seattle-Paris. That would be my preference (and I've heard rumors that it's going to happen, but maybe they're just rumors?)

One thing I liked about NW was that I was able to make seat reservations 90 days in advance, whereas every time I've tried to do this on British Air, it's fallen through. But I have to admit, NW had the worst airline food I've ever tasted!

cruiselove,
Thanks, yes, for me it was a great trip (though it seems DH was on another trip, but that's another story.)

I think Leon might have been disappointing to me because I had too great of expectations for it. I guess that can always be a problem with places, though certainly I wasn't at all disappointed in Venice, Siena, Segovia, or Salamanca. And the Parador in Leon was incredible (though DH is having a fit now because they charged us twice--but I'll have to take care of it when the banks open Tues. TG it's on American Express.)

I'll write more about Leon when I get my journal trip report posted--I'm still unpacking. Why does it seem as if it takes longer to unpack than to pack? Or is that just me? Or is the answer obvious--because it's so much more fun packing, though I have to admit, being home is good too, especially with the gorgeous weather we've been having here (Seattle).

Oh, yes, and the name of the best tapas place in Salamanca I was referring to is Galatea at C/Prado 11. We had 3 glasses of wine and probably between 6-8 tapas that were really delicious for 10.50 Euro.

Well, back to the unpacking...

Paula,

Paula, thank you for your comments so far. Take a break soon from all that yucky unpacking and give us more details!

Yes, I agree with you the Parador in Leon is magnificent. Did you have dinner there? How did you like the other Paradores?

cruiseluv,

I was so impressed with the Paradores, I could rave on and on. I really think it's the way to go in Spain. I'm going to go into this more in my "real" trip report (once I've completed the yucky unpacking, but you're right, I needed a break). Each and every one that we stayed in was unique, and with the purchase of the 5 day card (and you can get a weekly card, which is an even better bargain), it really is a super deal.

We stayed in 4--1 night Avila, which was right next to the 900 year old city wall and had the most fabulous, peaceful garden; 1 night in Salamanca, which had a more "business-like" feel, but was just a short walk to town and had really large rooms; then 2 nights in Leon, which was fabulous; and finally Segovia, which was very modern and gorgeous and our room had the most marvelous view of the city. However, this was quite a trek to town and we ended up taking taxis, but I'd stay there again in a heartbeat.

Yes, we had dinner one night at the Parador in Leon. The dinner room was elegant, and the food was very good, but IMO not great, but we had been in Italy in Tuscany for a week, and IMO Tuscany is almost an impossible act to follow when it comes to food, although I thought Narizotas in Segovia matched it.

I'll report in more detail when I unpack. I kept a journal and have lots of notes, (but that's another story...TBC...)

Paula,

I guess I'll have to stay tuned!

Did you stay in the Modern or the Old side of the Leon parador?

cruiseluv,

We stayed in the old side, which was fine--nice view of the river and Roman bridge--although I've heard the rooms in the new side are larger and nicer, but ours was very nice. I'll give more detail in my longer report which I'm going to post now (but haven't gotten to Spain yet.)