Just back from 10 days
Oct 30th, 2003, 04:47 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just back from 10 days
We just got back from 10 days in Spain. First 3 in Madrid (third was daytrip to Segovia); 1 in Carmona; 3 in Sevilla; daytrip to Cordoba on way to Toledo, 2 in Toledo; last night back in Madrid. Since everyone was so helpful I thought I'd provide some feedback for folks.
First, the weather in October is not very good. It rains quite a lot and we got REALLY lucky. It seemed to pour in the city we had just left one day later! I think it was Frommers that said that the best times to go were May and October. I have to call BS on that one, but like I said we actually got quite lucky. Second, the Parador in Carmona was AMAZING, but the food was disappointing. I had heard the Paradors have such great restaurants but this was one of the poorer dinners and breakfasts on our trip. Third, there is a fine dining restaurant on the main plaza in Carmona (the name escapes me right now) which we stumbled into accidentally and had the absolute best meal in Spain. I can get the name if anyone is interested. Fourth, Rick Steve's book on Spain stinks. His Italy book was great, but frankly I don't think Rick likes Spain or Spaniards very much - just judging by his tone. Anyone who thinks the inside of the Mezquita looks like a basement (quote from Rick's book) is an idiot. The Mezquita was just below Sevilla's Alcazar and Gardens as our second favorite site. Fifth, be very careful about taking the train to Toledo on a weekend. There are only 3 trains the whole day on Saturday - AND we were halfway to Toledo on the RENFE when they announced we had to get off and switch to a bus for the rest of the trip - no explanation. If I had known that I could have just taken a cab from Atocha to Estacion Sur and taken the bus from there in half the time. Sixth, to all those considering the Hotel Carlos V in Madrid, I would consider staying at the Reina Victoria for less money and a much nicer area (Plaza Santa Ana versus Puerta del Sol). We stayed in the Carlos on the last night and it was plenty nice, but the area at night is very sketchy. There were 4 homeless people that accosted us with 100 feet of the Carlos. Seventh - evryones' restaurant recs were great. Particularly great were the Corral de Agua and Casablanca in Sevilla; Condito (sp?) in Segovia; Hostal Cardenal in Toledo. If anyone wants to pick my brain on these places or comments, I would love to help out.
First, the weather in October is not very good. It rains quite a lot and we got REALLY lucky. It seemed to pour in the city we had just left one day later! I think it was Frommers that said that the best times to go were May and October. I have to call BS on that one, but like I said we actually got quite lucky. Second, the Parador in Carmona was AMAZING, but the food was disappointing. I had heard the Paradors have such great restaurants but this was one of the poorer dinners and breakfasts on our trip. Third, there is a fine dining restaurant on the main plaza in Carmona (the name escapes me right now) which we stumbled into accidentally and had the absolute best meal in Spain. I can get the name if anyone is interested. Fourth, Rick Steve's book on Spain stinks. His Italy book was great, but frankly I don't think Rick likes Spain or Spaniards very much - just judging by his tone. Anyone who thinks the inside of the Mezquita looks like a basement (quote from Rick's book) is an idiot. The Mezquita was just below Sevilla's Alcazar and Gardens as our second favorite site. Fifth, be very careful about taking the train to Toledo on a weekend. There are only 3 trains the whole day on Saturday - AND we were halfway to Toledo on the RENFE when they announced we had to get off and switch to a bus for the rest of the trip - no explanation. If I had known that I could have just taken a cab from Atocha to Estacion Sur and taken the bus from there in half the time. Sixth, to all those considering the Hotel Carlos V in Madrid, I would consider staying at the Reina Victoria for less money and a much nicer area (Plaza Santa Ana versus Puerta del Sol). We stayed in the Carlos on the last night and it was plenty nice, but the area at night is very sketchy. There were 4 homeless people that accosted us with 100 feet of the Carlos. Seventh - evryones' restaurant recs were great. Particularly great were the Corral de Agua and Casablanca in Sevilla; Condito (sp?) in Segovia; Hostal Cardenal in Toledo. If anyone wants to pick my brain on these places or comments, I would love to help out.
Oct 30th, 2003, 05:38 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
skerew,
Thanks for the feedback. What is happening with the Toledo trains, if the news bulletin I read a while ago on www.renfe.es is correct, is that since they're building the high speed AVE line to Toledo service is reduced now to 3 trains on wkds. and disrupted; trains are being sent to another suburban station then passengers are being bussed. Sounds like what happened to you.
As you say, it's probably best and quickest for those daytripping to Toledo these days to take the Continental Galiano bus to Toledo, with service every 1/2 hr., from the Estacion Sur de Autobuses above the Mendez Alvaro metro station.
Glad you enjoyed the Mezquita, Seville's Alcazar (really amazing, isn't it?) and the Carmona Parador. I haven't eaten there in several yrs. Olga has recommended a great restaurant in Carmona that I want to try someday.
Maybe it's the same one you stumbled upon. I have an artist friend who just moved to Carmona so hope to visit soon!
I'm glad you enjoyed your other meals; you dined in many of my favorites, especially the Hostal del Cardenal.
Do you remember what rate you got for the Tryp Reina Victoria on the Plaza Santa Ana in Madrid? I'm glad to know you enjoyed it and its location. In the past I've found the desk staff a little aloof and unhelpful when I've gone in to look around and ask for brochures, but since Melia bought the Tryp chain, this former Tryp hotel, I suspect, is going to improve, or has improved already, its service.
Sorry about your bad luck with the weather!
Welcome home.
Thanks for the feedback. What is happening with the Toledo trains, if the news bulletin I read a while ago on www.renfe.es is correct, is that since they're building the high speed AVE line to Toledo service is reduced now to 3 trains on wkds. and disrupted; trains are being sent to another suburban station then passengers are being bussed. Sounds like what happened to you.
As you say, it's probably best and quickest for those daytripping to Toledo these days to take the Continental Galiano bus to Toledo, with service every 1/2 hr., from the Estacion Sur de Autobuses above the Mendez Alvaro metro station.
Glad you enjoyed the Mezquita, Seville's Alcazar (really amazing, isn't it?) and the Carmona Parador. I haven't eaten there in several yrs. Olga has recommended a great restaurant in Carmona that I want to try someday.
Maybe it's the same one you stumbled upon. I have an artist friend who just moved to Carmona so hope to visit soon!
I'm glad you enjoyed your other meals; you dined in many of my favorites, especially the Hostal del Cardenal.
Do you remember what rate you got for the Tryp Reina Victoria on the Plaza Santa Ana in Madrid? I'm glad to know you enjoyed it and its location. In the past I've found the desk staff a little aloof and unhelpful when I've gone in to look around and ask for brochures, but since Melia bought the Tryp chain, this former Tryp hotel, I suspect, is going to improve, or has improved already, its service.
Sorry about your bad luck with the weather!
Welcome home.
Oct 30th, 2003, 07:46 AM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rate that we had at the Reina Victoria was 108 euros which included breakfast for two people. The breakfast was by far the best we had out of all or hotels. Also the service was as good as any of our other hotels. As stated above the Parador breakfast was not very impressive. We also stayed at Las Casa de la Juderia in Sevilla which was quite charming - lovely dining room and good breakfast (but most expensive of our hotels), and Hotel Santa Isabel in Toledo - a TERRIFIC bargain for the money - 39 euros a night.
Oct 30th, 2003, 10:02 AM
#4
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That seems a great rate for the Reina Victoria in Madrid - I thought it was usually quite a bit pricier. Where did you find that rate? or maybe they have lowered their prices (we went last fall and I'm sure it was 150E+)Rick Steves says the mezquita looks like a basement!!!! It is actually one of my favorite sites in Europe - the juxtaposition of the cahtedral built inside the mosque is such an incredible "object lesson" of the history of the region. And the effect of all the "candy cane" columns is wonderful!
Oct 30th, 2003, 11:08 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Found that rate on their website. I think it is solmelia.com or something like that. I paid 129 euros for the Juderia, 175 euros for parador carmona (for half board), 118 euros for Carlos V in Madrid, and the incredible 39 euros for santa isabel in Toledo.
Oct 30th, 2003, 02:22 PM
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you, skerew, for all this great information. We're leaving in a week and going to Cordoba for the first time--I like Rick Steves, but figured he had to be off on this one (as I think he is on Hotel Europa in Madrid and Continental in Barcelona, but he was certainly right on with Hostal Cardinal in Toledo!)
Was wondering if you have any recommendaitons for restaurants in Cordoba? Also, did you get to Medinat az-Zahara? How did you like it?
I'm a bit concerned about the weather in Nov., but we're from Seattle, so we're used to rain. Besides, I'm hoping it we'll have good luck like you did!
Was wondering if you have any recommendaitons for restaurants in Cordoba? Also, did you get to Medinat az-Zahara? How did you like it?
I'm a bit concerned about the weather in Nov., but we're from Seattle, so we're used to rain. Besides, I'm hoping it we'll have good luck like you did!
Oct 31st, 2003, 06:45 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
artlover - We ate at El Caballo Rojo right across from La Mezquita. It was one of the finest meals we had in Spain, and the service was splendid. Another highlight that I forgot to mention in my original post was the Museum of Fine Art in Sevilla. We were there for approximately 2 hours and saw (and I'm not exagerating) maybe 15 people. We were alone in at least half of the rooms and it felt like we had a private art gallery for ourselves. The collection of Murillo's is impressive.
Oct 31st, 2003, 07:21 PM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
artlover,
The Caballo Rojo is wonderful! One of Córdoba's s best, if not THE best gourmet dining venues. We enjoyed a leisurely, delicous lunch on the terrace there in April. Creative sephardic and mozarabic dishes and luscious homemade desserts. And very professional and caring service from the veteran waiters. Truly first rate.
I highly recommend it!
For a casual "tapas" meal, I also highly recommend Taberna Casa Pepe on Calle Romero 1 on the corner, just 5 min. from the Mezquita. It's been a tradition in Córdoba for over 100 years. Their salmorejo (a thick gazpacho) is delicious. We had great tapas and delicious olive oil (really!) ice cream in the interior courtyard downstairs and were surrounded by locals. Friendly service, too.
My art history class took a trip out to Medina Azahara. I highly recommend it, particularly since you're spending the night. Also, as an art lover, if you have interest in Spanish Baroque (Velázquez, Zurbarán, Murillo, Cano, Ribera), you'll love the Museo de Bellas Artes, but I strongly suspect you've been here already! I know your trip is very much on the horizon. Hope you have a wonderful time!
olga,
Just found info on your great restaurant rec.
The San Fernando is featured in my Guía Jaguar gourmet guide, which I've had great success with, as well as Gourmetour, who calls it "magnificent", the best in the city. The address is Sacramento 3. Closed Sun. night & Mon.
phone: 954 14 335 56
This guide says:
Av. check: 30 euros p.p. Specialties: Sole, superb cod, pears poached in red wine served over a fruit sauce, puff pastry of ice cream with rice pudding, also game dishes in season. The Jaguar guide says the San Fernando is considered one of the most interesting restaurants in the entire province and housed in a reconverted noble home.
Well priced tasting menu.
You have exquisite taste in food!
samtraveler,
The Madrid-Toledo AVE isn't scheduled for completition until sometime next yr., I believe.
The Caballo Rojo is wonderful! One of Córdoba's s best, if not THE best gourmet dining venues. We enjoyed a leisurely, delicous lunch on the terrace there in April. Creative sephardic and mozarabic dishes and luscious homemade desserts. And very professional and caring service from the veteran waiters. Truly first rate.
I highly recommend it!
For a casual "tapas" meal, I also highly recommend Taberna Casa Pepe on Calle Romero 1 on the corner, just 5 min. from the Mezquita. It's been a tradition in Córdoba for over 100 years. Their salmorejo (a thick gazpacho) is delicious. We had great tapas and delicious olive oil (really!) ice cream in the interior courtyard downstairs and were surrounded by locals. Friendly service, too.
My art history class took a trip out to Medina Azahara. I highly recommend it, particularly since you're spending the night. Also, as an art lover, if you have interest in Spanish Baroque (Velázquez, Zurbarán, Murillo, Cano, Ribera), you'll love the Museo de Bellas Artes, but I strongly suspect you've been here already! I know your trip is very much on the horizon. Hope you have a wonderful time!
olga,
Just found info on your great restaurant rec.
The San Fernando is featured in my Guía Jaguar gourmet guide, which I've had great success with, as well as Gourmetour, who calls it "magnificent", the best in the city. The address is Sacramento 3. Closed Sun. night & Mon.
phone: 954 14 335 56
This guide says:
Av. check: 30 euros p.p. Specialties: Sole, superb cod, pears poached in red wine served over a fruit sauce, puff pastry of ice cream with rice pudding, also game dishes in season. The Jaguar guide says the San Fernando is considered one of the most interesting restaurants in the entire province and housed in a reconverted noble home.
Well priced tasting menu.
You have exquisite taste in food!
samtraveler,
The Madrid-Toledo AVE isn't scheduled for completition until sometime next yr., I believe.
