Ira, please know that many deskchair travelers are living vicariously through you now! Thank you for the reports, and for giving me little things to look forward to in Italy in March! I'm taking copious notes! Enjoy!

Ira,
This is great. I'm enjoying and salivating at every word. You are making me so hungry for Italy. I hope you keep posting.
Mama

Thanks Ira. Sounds like Bologna was very enjoyable. I feel like I'm right there with you!

Wonderful report Ira (though I do somewhat disagree with your take on the Uffizi). It sounds as if you are being more than properly nourished! Isn't Italian food wonderful? Glad you're having good weather and enjoying your trip.

Ira: Ribes are black currants. Mmmm...

Hi all,

Returned to Florence. Went to the Accademia for the David. Beautiful piece of work, despite the scaffolding that now covers his left side and back.

Note, that is not an image of a Jewish man.

Wandered about the city, saw sights, nibbled, window shopped.

Dinner at Il Ritrovo at 4 via dei Pucci.

This is a MUST. We have eaten there twice now, and have been hard pressed to spend 100E for two with wine.

Owned by Marco, who does the cooking, and Rosetta, who is the server, this is a lovely place in a vaulted, white-washed basement.

Dinner opens with a complimentary proseco and closes with ice cold limoncello. In between are pasta, risotto, prawns, shrimp, veal, lamb, beef, vegetables, fruits and sweets that are fresh, perfectly ripe, carefully prepared and beatifully presented.

Antipasto Fantasia: 8 offerings of meats cheeses and toasts
Risotto w/zucchini and shrimp: just perfect
Prawns baked in sauce marinara: Sweet and succulent
Veal Scallopine in lemon sauce: bright with flavor
Mixed vegetables: / kinds, each just so (I didn't finish my beets)
Sea Bream baked in foil: flaky, moist and briney (Rosetta removed and served it beautifully)
Chocolate souffle in creme anglais, tiramisu the way it should be.

Our first visit, Marco insisted that I have the less expensive wine, since the one I had chosen wouldn't be as good with the food. Our second visit, he substituted taghliatelli for the tagliare because the finer pasta would be overwhelmed by the sauce.

Visited the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Them Medici sure knew how to live. Views from the terrace of the Porcelain Museum and the Kaffeehause are spectacular. Kaffeehause is closed for renovation. Boboli Gardens are in need of some TLC. Keep in mind the gardens are UPHILL both ways.

Went to Lucca on Sunday because they hold an antiques market on the 3rd Sunday of the month. Very big, very pricey flea market. Saw the town and its churches. Very pleasant afternoon.

Had dinner at the Salaam Bombay, Via Fratelle Roselli, 45r. Very good Indian restaurant. Excellent cheese-stuffed Nan and excellent eggplant. Menus in Hindi, Italian and English.

Off to Venice today.

Ciao

Hi Ira: Up late tonight because it's so hot and enjoyed reading your most recent note. Your trip continues to sound fabulous. Yes the Medicis did know how to live, but I must say you seem to have the same ability!

Enjoy Venice. Our visit there last year was much too short. Hope we can return and stay longer.

Thanks for keeping us updated, Ira! We really enjoyed the view from the Porcelain Museum at Boboli Gardens, as well, but I'm sorry to hear that the gardens are still in need of TLC. However, it sounds like you're having a fantastic time.

Can't wait to hear your update on the magical city of Venezia. Take care and continue enjoying yourselves!

Weather.com says you are having rain in Venice but every time I look at the web cam, the weather looks beautiful. We'll be arriving on Thursday evening!

Hi all,

Went to Venice Monday and Tuesday. Stayed overnight at the Carlton Hotl Capri because it is close to the train station and the Scuola Rocco, which we wanted to see, and we got a good discount rate.

They put us up in one of the smaller rooms on the 4th flr.

more to come

Sorry,

Ran out of time on my internet card.

They put us in one of the smaller rooms on the 4th flr. Elevator only goes to 3rd flr. We only had one bag, so it was OK. Had a nice view over the roofs to the dome of the S. Simon de Piccolo. Very pleasant staff.

Had ham and eggs for breakfast. First time for an American breakfast in over a week.

Went to Specchia Barberini at 1720 Via Dei Christi for Venetian masks. We have been collecting masks from Mr Barberini because he sticks to traditional styles and colors. His niece, Michelle, is now running the shop while Barberini is in semi-retirement. Got a gold and silver sun and a beautiful green jester.

Wandered about town. Got lost. Wandered some more. Bought some saffron at about 1/5 of the price at home. (Madison, GA is not noted for its exotic shopping.)

Dinner at Cantinone Storico. It is on a canal near the Accademia bridge,, within sound of the bells of one of the churches. Lovely atmosphere. Excellent cooking. Very good presentation. Superior service.

Had tuna carpaccio, mixed seafood antipasto, seafood risotto, Sea bass, cheese platter (gorgonzola, belle paese and reggiano parmesano).

With the antipasti, we had the house white - a nice Pinot Grigio. With dinner a bottle of Mercato Vendemenia - an assertive and slightly resinous white.

Ran out of wine when it was time for the cheese. Asked if the Mercato came by the glass. Waiter said "no". Didn't want another full bottle so asked for a 1/4 L of the house. Waiter made a face. Brought a bottle of the Mercato. Poured two glasses. No charge. I like people who know that dining is an art form.

Yesterday did the Secret Itineraries Tour. Had reservations for the 10:45 tour. Arrived at 10:20, as ordered. Got my ticket, clearly printed "10:45 tour". Sat at the meeting point and waited. 10:45 came and went. Nothing.

To be cont.

At 11:00 went and asked when the tour would start. After a few minutes, I was sent to the information desk, where I was greeted by name and told that "actually, there is no 10:45 English tour. The next English tour is at 11:30". Ah, belle Italia.

Went on the 11:30 tour. Interesting. Wandered through the Doge's Palace. Had a quick lunch. Went to the Grande Scuolo Rocco. Overwhelming number of Tintorettos. Needs a few visits to absorb.

Took the 6:30 train back to Florence. It began to rain. Arrived Florence in a gentle rain that lasted all night. Everyone very happy since it is the first rain since May.

Ronda
Rain stopped this morning. Expect same is true of Venice. It is cloudy, but not threatening.

Thanks for transporting me back to Venezia, Ira. I certainly miss it. Looking forward to more of your report.

Wonderful report Ira. Cantinone Storico sounds great. Wish we had tried it. Were you sad to leave Venice?

Hi Ira - sounds like Luigi waited on you!
><

Ira reminds me of the feelings that being in the Louvre and the Tate brought..that I really need months in this place to be able to absorb all of this beauty!
Happy Travels Ira!!

I was so glad to see your report.I leave soon and was hoping for last minute tips. Thanks for taking time to update us! Enjoy

Thanks to all for your kind words.

I'll be posting my report soon.

Hey Ira!
Don't wait too long to post that report! Not trying to rush you too much (!) but we're leaving early Monday 13th for Italy and I want to get all the latest from your trip before I go!
Mama