I've never been to the Dordogne region, so I would appreciate the advice of those who have.

From the various threads I have read and online research I've done, I'm thinking that either the Hotel Bonnet in Beynac or Villa Consuls in Sarlat would be a good home base for exploring the Dordogne/Lot region.

From what I've read on this board, it seems like Sarlat might be more difficult in terms of parking and traffic (driving back into the town after various side trips).

Also, I was thinking of taking the TGV from Paris to either Perigueux or Brive and picking up a car in one of those two places.

Any feedback will be most appreciated.

We stayed in Sarlat for two weeks in June and thought it was a great base for exploring the Dordogne. We always found a place to park when we returned home at the end of our day and never had much problem leaving or returning to town. It was also great to be able to walk to a restaurant in the evening and then wander around town afterwards as well as to already have a parking place on market mornings when all the lots fill up early.

Ironically, the place where we most often encountered traffic jams was Beynac because the main road runs right through town and it narrows at one point where the cliff comes close to the river. It's not possible for big vehicles to pass each other in opposite directions so there is a bit of jockeying every time that happens.

Still, I feel that Beynac would be a good base as would most of the other villages in the area. I took a photo of the Hotel Bonnet from the river when we paddled by and it looks very nice although it's right beside the highway as well as the river. Ira stayed there so he would know whether this is a problem.

I think you would be quite happy with either location if don't go in midsummer.

We just followed up a bike trip in Tuscany with a week in the Dordogne. Per suggestions received on this site, we stayed at L'Esplanade in Domme all but the last night when we moved to Toulouse to catch a flight out the next day.

We checked out the other candidates...Hotel Bonnet in Beynac and the Belle Etoile in Le Roque, and were pleased with our choice. We had a room with a million dollar view. We interrupted a canoe trip to stop at Hotel Bonnet for a beer. I think there would be some traffic noise there, as well as the Belle Etoile, that you just don't have at the top of the hill in Domme, but they both looked charming.

We went to and through Sarlat a few times and there were definitely a few more traffic and parking issues than Domme but it was manageable. Maybe it is worse later in July and August.We were planning to move to somewhere closer to Rocammadour for a couple of days to beat the traffic but decided to stay in Domme and driving around was a pleasure.

We flew from Paris to Brive on Airlinair (www.airlinair.com)for something on the order of 50 euros one way. They have an 8:55 am flight which is the only flight into the Brive airport. From the time we touched down to the time we drove off in the rental car, maybe 10 minutes had elapsed. What a breeze.

You must get Stu Dudley's report/travelogue on the Dordogne from this website.

Thank you, Moolyn and Beaux, for the great feedback. Just now getting around to posting a reply as I've been out of town. These are interesting observations. Yes, I recall reading somewhere (maybe Rick Steve's France guidebook) that the highway next to the River in Beynac is very busy (and your description paints it as rather harrowing).

I would be going end of June--early July. Thanks so much for the tip about Domme as well as the flight to Brive (didn't know that was an option). I will check out both.

I'm thinking of going to the following places on this trip: Les Milandes, Beynac, La Rocque, Domme, Sarlat, Carennac, Racamadour, Figeac, and St.Cirq Lapopie.

Again, Thanks!
WT

ttt

Hello Watercolor:

If you click on my name, you will find my trip report from the Dordogne and other threads where I asked for advise on where to stay.

I stayed at L'Esplanade in Domme and love it (in early April, no crowds). This may or may not be right for you, but I was definately glad I stayed in the countryside and not in Sarlat. Its a smallish town, but there is traffic and I loved the peace of the countryside.

There are no bad choices in the Dordogne!

Regards Ger

Ger,

Yes, I saw your trip report earlier this week, and saved it to my desktop for further reading, but didn't see that you stayed at in Domme. Peaceful countryside is much more to my liking than cars and traffic, so I will definitely check out L'Espanade.

Also, I have traveled alone before, but have never driven a rental car in a foreign country, so this will be a new experience. Are the drives fairly easy? Any harrowing, hairpin highways I should avoid?

This sounds like a real adventure, and I'm sure I'll be fine, but some reassurance will be nice. I just read in my DK guidebook of the Dordogne that it's possible to get AAA roadside service in Europe. I will not go without a cell phone, in any case.

WT

Dordogne is REALLY easy to drive – I think I said in my trip report to throw the maps out, you don’t need them! OK, an exaggeration, but the signposting is excellent, roads are good and everything is within easy driving distance.

If this is your FIRST driving experience in Europe, then all the more reason for staying in the countryside rather than a town. The only stress you will feel (and it is not much) is driving in and out of the towns, looking for parking etc.

You will be fine. I would say that the Dordogne was my LEAST stressful driving experience and a great place to start. I drive on my own regularly in Europe and I can guarantee you that you will have a great adventure. That’s not to say I have not had my disasters, but they were always because I did something stupid.

Be brave, you have a fabulous adventure ahead of you.

Regards Ger

Thanks, Ger! I'm excited about planning for this trip.

Also... a couple people on this board recommended the book "From here you can't see Paris." I'm just finishing it -- It's a gem! Thanks!

Ger,
I just read your entire trip report and looked at your wonderful photos. I was so sorry for you when I read the wallet scenario. How frustrating that must have been. I thoroughly enjoyed your wonderful writing as well as the content of the report.

You mention a rather harrowing experience meeting oncoming cars on your way up to Domme the first time. Was that just an unusual experience, or is the drive up to Domme a bit scary? Just curious as I am indeed considering Hotel L'Espanade as a home base. Your photos of the views have about convinced me!

Do you suppose I should book a 1-night stay in St. Cirq Lapopie, since it's a bit of a drive? And then spend a leasurely day in the area?

There are some posters here who have recommended country inns in the Rocamadore and Carennac areas. Both look delightful, so I have considered a night or two in one of those, as well.

WT

I think it would be easier to stay one or two nights in Rocamadour or somewhere in that area. St. Cirq Lapopie is very small and easy to walk through in a hour or two. I liked staying in Rocamadour. Many people like figeac also

cparris,
Thanks for the recommendation. Where did you stay in Rocamadour, if you don't mind my asking?

Hi WT,

We had a very pleasant stay at the Bonnet hotel in a room overlooking the river.

The traffic through Beynac is not harrowing, but does tend to clog up in season because of the tour buses.

Driving throught the region is not difficult. The roads are well paved and well marked.

I would recommend Figeac over St Cirq laPopie for an overnight.

You might find my trip report useful.
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645

Photos at http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-pla2au

Enjoy your visit.

Ira,

Thanks for the great photo slideshow and the trip report (which I will read when I have more time!) I loved the early morning photo of the Dordogne. Just lovely. Yes, I'm still considering Hotel Bonnet, and I'll also think about 1 or 2 nights in Figeac. Thanks for the feedback!

WT