My wife and I will visit the Dordogne for 5 days in June 2006 and we were thinking of staying in Sarlat. But I see from postings on this site that it can be very crowded even in May, and I'm wondering if we would be better off somewhere else. Perhaps Perigeuex. Or perhaps a little village. But we don't want to stay too far out in the country and face a big drive just to have dinner. Any thoughts?

Périgueux is outside the traditional triangle pf Sarlat, Montignac, Le Bugue, but it is itself interesting and closer to some of the sights in the northern part of the Dordogne, such as Bourdeilles and Brantôme.

If interested, this trip report thread contains a reference to my Dordogne pictures, which with a good local map might give you some idea of what you will want to see:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34653387

Hi Bob,

We stayed a week at the Hotel Bonnet in Beynac.

Will you be there in early or late June? The road through Beynac can be crowded in season.

I suggest reconsidering Sarlat.

"Crowded" is relative and subjective. Sarlat is never as crowded as Rothenburg or Bruges. We stayed there almost exactly two years ago, when the autumn leaves were turning color and the area was bustling with tourists. We had no difficulties with parking, restaurant seating, etc. The town is gorgeous and its historic center is a perfect place to wander after dinner. Sarlat is a spectacular remnant of pre-Revolutionary France.

We stayed at the Hotel des Recollets and, for less than 100 Euro, had one of the nicest rooms that we have had anywhere in Europe.

We've vacationed in the Dordogne for 8 weeks on 4 seperate trips since '97. We just returned from 4 weeks there. Don't stay in Perigueux - actually much more crowded than Sarlat and somewhat far from the big sites. Beautiful town, however. I also don't think the Perigueux area is as scenic as the area around Sarlat.

Ira gave you some good advice - stay in/near Roque Gageac or Beynac. He stayed at the Bonnet, but also consider the Belle Etoile in Roque Gageac.

Crowds. St Cirq posted an excellent "log" of her adventures while she was there in August. She said it was bumper-to-bumper traffic while trying to drive through Roque Gageac & Beynac. We arrived on Aug 27, and most of the "throngs" had left by then, because we breezed through both of these towns without putting on the brakes. We've been there in June also, and there were not the kind of crowds you experience the last 2 weeks of July & first 4 weeks of Aug.

Going from south to north through Sarlat is usually not that bad at all. However, north to south is a different matter because there is a school that lets out around 3:30 or so & if you hit it at that time, the usual 5 min drive is 20 mins. You take different 1 way roads depending on which direction you are traveling through Sarlat.

Stu Dudley

Stay at Hotel Bonnet, Beynac. One of the finest kitchens in Dordogne, very acceptable rooms and pretty central for day trips. Staff speak English if that's a concern. Also try the Petite Tonnelle Restaurant just a few minutes walk away.

Don't be put off by the reports of traffic in Beynac, Domme and Roque Gageac. There is traffic in August, no question, but nowhere near like getting caught in rush hour traffic in any large American of European. You may get a 5 to 10 minute traffic jam going past Beynac; Domme is difficult to get in and out of, but again we're talking 10 to 15 minutes; Rogue Gageac is probably the worst for the distance that you have to drive, as the main road is the main sidewalk, but then you get to people watch as you wait in traffic for 5 minutes.
There are worse places to have to sit and wait. The views are spectacular and you really don't have to get anywhere quickly. You are on holiday. The locals all know how to get around or avoid these spots so they aren't going to bother you.
Enjoy - go where you want to - don't worry about traffic.

FWIW we stayed 2 nights in May at La Belle Etoile in La Roche-Gigeac. It was a Logis de France and perfectly adequate. The food was good. Some of the staff spoke English. It was very centrally located for seeing the area, plus the gabare rides on the river left right in front of the hotel.

We stayed at Les Granges Hauts, an adorable B&B in St. Crepin not far from Sarlat with very pleasant accommodations, wonderful breakfasts, terrific grounds and rates under 70 euros per night. We recommend it highly.