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Help with Lucerne and Bernese Oberland itinerary

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Old May 9th, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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Help with Lucerne and Bernese Oberland itinerary

Dear Fodorites,

My husband, toddler and myself are leaving for our first europe trip in 2 weeks. Excited and overwhelmed!

We are hoping to get expert opinions from you folks for the swiss part of our journey.

We get to Lucerne early in the morning, leave for Murren the next afternoon around 3 pm. Then we are spending three nights in Murren and leave for Zurich around 4 pm on last day.

With that, we have 1.5 days to explore Lucern and 2.5 days for BOB. We love nature, but can't do big hike (can only go for small hikes that can be done with a child). We have to include some boat, cog wheel train, steamer rider etc in the itinerary because that's what our girl is looking forward to, in addition to meeting cows! (we have been watching travel videos to give her an idea).

How would you distribute this short time? What is a must to do that is time efficient? Should do do a boat ride in Lake Lucerne or Lake Thun?

Thanks a lot.
meghuji is offline  
Old May 9th, 2008 | 06:07 PM
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You will be arriving in the Berner Oberland when the winter still lingers at the higher elevations.

Depending on the weather, the cows may still be at lower altitudes, but they have to be somewhere!!

You will have a couple of rides that you can take from Mürren. One of them, the Schilthorn, is a cable car ride to a viewpoint atop a relatively low peak, but still it gives a great chance to see the surrounding territory.

If the walkway from Mürren to the lift station called Grutschalp is open, a partial walk along that route would be very pleasant.

I am not sure a toddler could make the whole walk because he or she would have to be carried or pushed in a buggy part of the way.

Of course, some toddlers can surprise adults. I know that even with grandchildren I get surprised at what some of these little guys and girls can do and at their endless energy.

Other than the Schilthorn, there is one gondola ride I can recommend. The problem with it is that you have to go to Grindelwald to take it, but you may want to go there anyhow to look around. It is the largest of the villages that lie in the valleys directly south of Interlaken.

The ride to which I have reference is gondola from Grindelwald to a station named First, which means ridge in Swiss German.

This trip was the first one I did in 1998 on our initial visit and we have repeated it several times because it is so fascinating.

There is a restaurant at the top with a nice terrace. Hopefully the sun will be strong enough to warm the air outside on the terrace.

Right now the forecast for Grindelwald is for cool temperatures even during the day. At first, things could be downright cold.

So temperature and cloud cover will dictate a lot of what you do.

You may have to look at waterfalls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley!!

bob_brown is offline  
Old May 9th, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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Thanks Bob! What's a great response!

My girl doesn't mind walking. She usually surprises us, especially when she is enjoying, and has some incentive (cows!). We are not going plan big hikes but the hike that you have suggested - from Murren to Grutschalp sounds perfect. I think she will easily walk for an hour or hour and half as long as it's not too difficult. How about Gimmelwald to Murren – is that an easy hike?

Männlichen, Jungfraujoch and Mt. Titlis - I would like to go to Jungfraujoch if weather permits (I hope it will be bit warmer during our stay from May 29 - Jun 2) If go there, should we skip Männlichen? How about Mt. Titlis?

We are getting 3 day swiss flexi pass and are interested in visiting Wengen, Grindelwald, Interlaken and Lake Thun. For the boat ride - would you suggest lake thun, lake lucerne or some place else?
meghuji is offline  
Old May 10th, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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Gimmelwald to Mürren is steep uphill.
The reverse is, obviously, steep downhill. I recommend neither.

Two reasons. The downhill is hard on the knees for most people.

There is not a whole lot to see or do in Gimmelwald. I have walked through it more than once on a longer hike to a beautiful cirque called the Kilchbalm. I think that hike is too long for a toddler, even a "go get em" type like a lot of youngsters who seemingly stop and nothing.

The walk from Grutschalp to Mürren is the recommended way because you are facing the mountains. As you walk along, the Jungfrau is to your left, slightly. The Berner Oberland's Breithorn is in front of you. All will be snow-covered in May fairly far down the slopes.

As a mountain trail goes, the lower path between Mürren and Grutschalp is fairly flat. It is also wide and relatively smooth for mountain terrain. In season there are benches along the way. I do not know if they will be in place when you are there.

This time of year, the snow will be melting and the falls should have a good supply of water.

For a pleasant flat walk, I suggest taking the train-cable car to Lauterbrunnen and walking along the main street past the shops to Staubbach Falls at the south end of the village. You will see the falls, so they are virtually impossible to miss.

As you pass by the church, the cemetery is a flower garden as well. I think some of the flowers will be in bloom by the time you get there.

Along the floor of the valley you will also find pasture areas. Hopefully a few animals will be in the pasture areas.

The major waterfall attraction in the area is Trümmelbach Falls. This one costs money, but by Swiss standards it is fairly cheap.
The falls are deeply recessed into the cleft cut by the water. An elevator takes visitors up to higher viewing areas, and the interior is lighted albeit fairly dimly in places.

Now, do I suggest taking a small child in there? Not sure. There are a lot of steps, narrow passages, and of course wetness. In season the number of people would for me be a problem with a small child.

Also the ambience of the area with the roaring water and the slightly dim lighting in the passage ways might be upsetting to some children.

Staubbach Falls on the other hand can be viewed from the road where you are out in the open. Steps lead to the falls and visitors can actually walk behind the plunging water. Of course you will catch a little spray!!

There is also a nice path along a section of river named der weiße Lütschine - the white Lütschine - which is a swift flowing stream. The church in Lauterbrunnen is next to the river. Some of the walk is paved, and all of it is flat.

Given the time of year that you will be there, opportunities are somewhat limited by the terrain and the fact that one of the best places to go, the Männlichen, the ridge on the east side of the valley, probably will have snow on it and I doubt if the cable lift from Wengen will be operating. It is usually down for maintenance in May.

There is one other possibility. If you go to Grindelwald and take the Post Bus to Grosse Scheidegg, literally big gap or big pass, there is a restaurant at the divide. The area around the restaurant is flat and a trail leads slightly northwest to First, which is a gondola station.

The area around the restaurant is devoid of trees and exposed to the sun all day long, if it is not too cloudy of course. Some of the path toward First is very flat and leads through meadows. My concern there would be whether or not the trail is wet because it is not a gravel covered trail.

I wish I could be more definitive but not having been there in May, I have not experienced the conditions first hand. If we were talking mid to late June, I would be a little more sure of trail conditions.




bob_brown is offline  
Old May 10th, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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In my opinion, the lake steamer ride is a good way to enjoy a day in Lucerne. Getting this ride done around Noonish or early afternoon should allow you enough time to stroll around the old town and lakeside of Lucerne.

Since you will be in Murren and since you would prefer a family type walk, I would walk from Murren over to Winteregg. Once at Winteregg, you can have lunch and a few beverages to enjoy the balance of some time.

Everyone would more than likely tell you and your group to do the Shilthorn excursion from Murren. I did that the first 1, maybe 2 times I was there. Now I have found other things to do there, but the point is that you should see that view since this will be your first trip to this area. The view really is awesome. The only thing I do not like about it is the huge crowd that can sometimes ride the gondola up there. Certain days it can be crowded.

I always enjoy strolling down to Gimmelwald. The walk is downhill and is in NO way difficult. There really is not much to do in Gimmelwald except enjoy the village and the views of the Jungfrau and company. I have always enjoyed walking up a small hill up to Walter's place. You will see Walter's Mittgahorn Hotel on the road down. Stop off there and have a coffee and enjoy the views of the area. On a nice day, the paragliders float above it all drifing down into the lauterbrunnen valley.

I would also try and get down to Lauterbrunnen and ride the train up to the Wengen side. Once in wengen, take the gondola up to Mannlichen.

If you have skimmed these Swiss boards enough, I know you have read many comments about the "Grandmother's walk"

That begins in Mannlichen and the walk is about 1 hour and 15 minutes over to Kleine Schiedegg area. There are some great views of the mountains to be had. KS is also a stopping off place for those going and returning back from the Jungfrau excursion so the crowds will more than likely be in good numbers.

If you really feel adventurous, walk down to the Wengenalps station. The walk is not all that far and your views of the mountains going down are just great.

You can take the train back down from Wengeralps back down to Lauterbrunnen where you skip across the tracks and connect back up to Murren area via the transport there.

Anyway, those are some thoughts of things to look into. Those suggestions I gave you here are great ways to see and enjoy the area without getting too involved in a strenuous hike.

I hope I have helped here

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sunstar is offline  
Old May 10th, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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I have never been to this area as early as May, but if the weather is OK and the trails are snow fee, I would look into those suggestions.

I enjoy traveling to this area in late August and within the first two weeks in September. Summer high pressure is usually in place during this period, but I have seen the exception.

Hopefully, your weather will good enough so you can enjoy the area.

Let's say you encounter some less than great weather, you can still do the Kleine Shceidegg
trip. Just take the train up to Wengen and continue all the up.

Then return by train back to Wengen and Lauterbrunnen.

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Old May 10th, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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Unfortunately the Wengen-Männlichenbahn does not begin operation until May 31, which is on a Saturday.

The Männlichen-Grindelwald gondola also does not begin operating until May 31.

As for the steepness of the trail between Mürren and Gimmelwald, the drop is more than 900 feet in a fairly short distance.

I suppose it is a question of whose knees are involved. I will admit than mine have quite a few miles on them.

I think you will have plenty to do with other activities.


bob_brown is offline  
Old May 10th, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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One more suggestion, and I think this will exhaust my knowledge of the area: The trip from Wilderswil to a place called Schynige Platte.

If you are in Interlaken looking south towards the mountains, the ridge to your easteast is Schnyige Platte.

The train ride up is on an old fashioned type of train that curls around for 7 kilometers before it reaches the top.

Unlike the ride to First, the majority of the route is in the trees. However the view of the area around Interlaken is tremendous.

The top is fairly flat, but not what I would call a billiard table by any means. The first train is scheduled to go up on May 24.

All departures are from Wilderswil which is a suburb of Interlaken. It is the first stop on the train route from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. (The train divides at the next stop, Zweilütschinen.)

Now for an opinion: I have done Schynige Platte once; I have done Grindelwald to First several times.
I think that indicates my distinct, almost overwhelming preference for First. I really do not think any other trip is quite like it in the area. Of course that is my own opinion, but the memory of that first trip up is forever etched in my memory. Subsequent trips of course have not been quite as startlingly dramatic, but that does not to depreciate the beauty that can be viewed on a clear day both during the ascent and after arrival at the top.

Here is hoping you have a wonderful trip and that the weather cooperates. I will tell you one thing, if the sun is shining, you will go until you reach somebody's limit, perhaps even beyond.

We did!!!! No trouble falling asleep at night!!!!!

bob_brown is offline  
Old May 10th, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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"Unfortunately the Wengen-Männlichenbahn does not begin operation until May 31, which is on a Saturday."
But the little train from Lautterbrunnen to Wengen is a delight - enjoyed it in April and October. Great for photograhy as it goes so slowly.
The Alpengarten at Schynige Platte may be open by then, just. Apart from the cog-wheel trip up and the flowers, the views are amazing, and your toddler may like the free teddy bear museum up there..
The Ballenberg Open Air Museum will be open.
As for the lakes mentioned, I prefer Lake Lucerne. Lake Brienz is abeautiful colour, though you'll see that from the train.
Have a lovely time!
Suelynne is offline  
Old May 10th, 2008 | 10:10 PM
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No cows on alpine meadows until mid/end of June.
Many communities have their "cattle drive" on mid-summer (June 21).
Even in lower elevations (1,500-2,000ft) of Southern Bavaria, you will only find a few herds of cow already grazing outside.

By the way: Where are in cows when it's still too cold? In the cow barns, of course -- except for those which Starbucks needs to make Iced Frappuccino ;-)

The best places to spot cows will be when you are traveling in lower elevations, i.e. around Lucerne.
For comparison: the max temperature in Lucerne will be much higher than in Mürren (75 vs 55) today.
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Old May 11th, 2008 | 05:10 AM
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Cowboy is right again. There is still a lot of snow in the mountains so the cow drive to the mountains might be later this year.
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Old May 11th, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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Thanks so much for taking the time to answer! Let me digest this by reading few more times (and will have to take a print out for the trip) and then I may follow up again with further questions.

We will be in BO from 30th May - 2nd June. So I am glad to hear that most trains and gondolas will be in operation by 31st May.

What a bummer about cows! That was one of the biggest reasons why we decided to stay in Murren. Oh well - I guess we will have to find cows in Austria, or find something equally appealing to the little one

Thanks to all of you for the great advice. I am so glad to have found this forum.
meghuji is offline  
Old May 12th, 2008 | 11:59 AM
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I know all of the responses sounds like an incredible amount of of information. It reminds me of my first trip. I remember posting years ago some travel questions about Switzerland on the old Prodigy network and getting back tons of information. Prodigy had a pretty good travel forum. Then AOL had a loyal base of Swiss and German travelers. I printed out all of the information and just went from there. You know, what cable does this and can I get from point A to point B and all intermediate stops in between. I had enough pages to publish a book. All of the information was spot on also.

Once over there, it did not take me long to begin figuring most of this out.

I was unaware that the Wengen to Mannlichen transport was not operating untill the 31 of May.

That little 1 hour and 15 minute jaunt from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg is such a good little walk though. If you're traveling with children, pick a sunny day if you can possibly do that. There should be benches along the way. The path is totally safe. Once you get Kleine Scheidegg in sight, you'll see the Eiger and eventually the Jungfrau will pop into view, but off in the distance you will see Kleine Scheidegg. Once in Kleine Schdeigegg, have some lunch at that little area by the restaurant. If the tables are not reserved for some group that day, grab a place out in the sun and sample some of the Bratwursts, Rosti or sauerekraut. Or try the goulash soup. I always enjoy that goulash soup.

I always tell people who travel to this area to do this "Grandmothers" walk since it shows off the beauty of the area. I think people who are not hiking enthusiasts can do this walk with total ease, plus it opens some great visual opportunities to the traveler. As you continue to walk, Grindlewald will be visible on your left side mostly. When you and your group are ready to return back to base, take the train back down to Lauterbrunnen where there the connection back up to Murren is just across the tracks.

You mentioned the Lake Thun cruise, I always do that cruise on days when my legs are shot. I rest on those days by relaxing on the boat to Thun. Since your time is limited in this area, I would catch those mountain views first. That would be my first priority.

Anyway, hope everything works out well and please post some kind of post telling us how things went there.

sunstar is offline  
Old May 13th, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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Thanks again for such a detailed reply. You all has been very very helpful. We are off to Europe in 4 days! When we are back, I will post our mini-report to let you all know how things went.



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Old May 13th, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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Many lower alps already have cows grazing in the fields. How do I know? I live right below a lower alp (1000 meters) and can hear the cow bells from my bedroom window. It's a wonderful sound.
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