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Help needed with Provence location

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Old Jun 11th, 2006, 03:49 PM
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Help needed with Provence location

We are spending the week of Sept 22 to Sept 29 in Provence, then moving on to Nice and Cinque Terre for another week. It's our first time to this area. I have been reading lots of threads on this forum that have been very helpful, but I am still overwhelmed on choices of places to stay. Maybe you guys can help!

First of all, do you think A/C and pool are needed at that time of year? We are searching in the "budget" category... under E75 with breakfast included. I think our best bet is a B&B or small inn. We have been looking at the St. Remy area, but now I see that there is a big 6 day festival there that week. Has anyone been to this festival? Do you think it will be crazy at that time? We have also looked at the Luberon area (based on reviews on Fodors). We are just overwhelmed with possible choices of places to stay and need to narrow it down.

Here is the criteria.... free and easy parking (we will have a car), private bath, central location and access to main road so we can easily explore the area, TV in room(if it's perfect, we will sacrifice this one!), COMFORTABLE queen or king size bed, some restaurants in the area and hopefully, some Provencal charm! All recommendations are appreciated.

I would especially love to hear from anyone who's been to St. Remy during this festival time. It looks like a lot of fun, but may be crowded and not the best place to stay.

TIA!
Deb


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Old Jun 11th, 2006, 04:13 PM
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Whoops-- forgot to tell you, we are mid 50's, experienced travelers, but never been to these areas, love markets, good food and wine (but will have to limit the splurges to only a few meals)and exploring all the small villages. We get up early and get going, so not too much time will be spent relaxing by the pool! Hope that helps.
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Old Jun 11th, 2006, 04:28 PM
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Try Logis de France

http://www.logis-de-france.fr/uk/recherch/index-ca.htm
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Old Jun 11th, 2006, 04:57 PM
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Try the Chateau de Roussan.

www.chateau-de-roussan.com

I think it will be hard finding your criteria within your price range. This place has rooms starting at 60 euro. I absolutely loved it when I stayed there. Some people on tripadvisor thought it was dirty, even when I went. Not at all. Certainly not the bedrooms. And the setting is incomparable.

There is no pool, as it's absolute 18th century authenticity. I was there in April, so can't say about whether a/c would be a problem.

Can't comment on the festival either. Sorry.
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Old Jun 11th, 2006, 07:03 PM
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We've been scouring Logis-- just too many choices! Thanks for the ideas though. Any comments on Apt? I found a nice looking place there.
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Old Jun 11th, 2006, 08:02 PM
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Deb...I agree with Guy on the Chateau de Roussan..we've stayed there in the past..but if you want the pool andeasy access, try the Villa Glanum (about 70 Euros with anpther 8 for an excellent breakfast, fine pool which you will want to have in September..also an effective A/C/, decent rooms, big bathrooms...plenty of parking among the olive groves, next to the Roman Ruins and Van Gogh's "sanitarium" across the road....http://www.villaglanum.com/

Stu T. (only 2 kms from the center of St. Remy)
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 04:14 AM
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Deb, you were wondering about Apt. We've rented houses in Lacoste (west of Apt) and Saignon (just east of Apt) and have made many trips into Apt for supplies, a meal, and once to find a doctor. While there may be very nice hotels and B & Bs in the town, it never struck me as particularly charming or attractive. If I were planning a week in the Luberon, I'd look for accommodation in Bonnieux, Gordes, Goult, or Roussillon. All are smaller, more attractive, and with reasonable access to the roads that will let you explore the Luberon.

About the air conditioning ... you will certainly encounter lovely warm days at that time of year, but evening temperatures will likely drop below 20 C. We've been there several times in late September and have never wished that we had chosen a place with air conditioning.

Sorry, can't help you with the festival in St-Rémy. I have been there a couple of times in late September and have no recollection of a festival.

Anselm
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 04:41 AM
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Our family has spent over seven months in the Luberon area during the past three years-- about to return in a few weeks for another month. Our first rental was in Saignon and since then we have based in the village of Bonnieux, which we love.

Our first impression of Apt was not positive. But since then we have come to really enjoy Apt-- especially the big Saturday morning market. Apt has been the bigger town that we go to for grocery shopping or anything major. To really appreciate Apt, you must walk in the pedestrian center or you may have the same initial impression that we did.

That said, I'm with Anselm on this one. Much as I like Apt, I wouldn't base there. There are plenty of places in nearby smaller villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, Saignon, St. Saturnin. If you have a full week (typically Saturday to Saturday), you can rent... which provides a wonderful experience.

If you wanted to split your week (perhaps several days in the Luberon and several days in the Alpilles (maybe St. Remy), then there are many beautiful B&Bs. One possibility we know well and highly recommend is the Mas Perreal in St. Saturnin: www.masperreal.com. Another place we've visited and highly recommend is the Mas Pomona (www.maspomona.com), which would be a central base for visiting both the Luberon and the Alpilles. We know the owners of both these properties. I could also recommend some B&Bs in Bonnieux if that interests you.

We arrived for our 6-1/2 month stay in Provence on October 2, 2004. It was warm and beautiful, but we didn't need air conditioning or even fans. And though I did lay out one day in my bathing suit, I didn't feel the need to get in the water of the swimming pool. A pool will add greatly to the cost of a rental, but most B&Bs will have them.

You might enjoy my photo essay on the Luberon: http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3420. (Watch as a slide show to really appreciate it!)

Kathy
 
Old Jun 12th, 2006, 05:43 AM
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Kathy, your slideshow is enchanting. I have been to most of those places and got a little jolt every time I realized that I have stood in almost the same spot. Thanks for posting the link.

I'm glad you mentioned the Saturday market in Apt. I had intended to include it in my earlier post, and it is unquestionably an attractive feature of the town. When we were last there, in 2003, they had just finsihed the new Leclerc store on the western side of Apt. There is a great joke in my family about my wife being mesmorized by the yogourt aisle. We have a pretty limited selection of yogourt in Halifax; my wife felt she had stumbled on a gold mine, and it took a bit of time for her to finally move on.

Anselm
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 06:16 AM
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Anselm, we shopped at that Leclerc every week for 6+ months and love it! The mix and type of food is so different than what we find where we live. (I know what you mean about the yoghurt!)

I'll post two other links related to the Apt market.

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3878 This is a photo album from our most recent trip back to Bonnieux at the end of March. We visited markets in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Aix, Gordes, Bonnieux and finally Apt.

And this is a link http://www.slowtrav.com/france/provence/market_apt.htm to a piece I wrote about a day at the Apt market during the off-season.

(Anselm, we have visited Halifax, and you live in a great place!!!)

Kathy

 
Old Jun 12th, 2006, 08:06 AM
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Thank you so much everybody. I will definitely check out all the info when I get home from work today. Kathy, those 2 places you mentioned look great but are slightly out of our price range. I am anxious to see your photos and trip reports though.

Keep the ideas coming!
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 08:27 AM
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For Provencale charm, central location, very reasonable rates and a lovely swimming pool, I would VERY highly recommend Mas de la Christine in Maillane, very near St. Remy. I wrote a trip report last year that described it, but visit www.masdelachristine.com to see for yourself!
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 11:03 AM
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abqdeb, so sorry! I should have read your first post more closely to see your price range.

Here are a couple of places in the area of the Luberon that I think would be worth investigating. Given the time of your visit, you may find something in your price range.

Les Trois Sources in Bonnieux: www.lestroissources.com/les-trois-sources-a.html I haven't been inside, but friends recommend it.


La Bouquiere - also outside of Bonnieux - www.luberon-news.com/la-bouquiere/index-uk.php

Le Clos des Lavandes - outside Lacoste: http://perso.orange.fr/leclosdeslavandes/home.htm

Maybe one of these will work for you.

By the way, you are likely not to find a TV in the room at these types of properties... maybe a TV in a guest lounge. Most of the channels would be in French anyway-- or CNN International. I'd re-think that idea...

Kathy
 
Old Jun 12th, 2006, 11:35 AM
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Hi Deb:
You also might want to consider Arles. We were there a few years ago and stayed at a fabulous hotel - Hotel Le Calendal:

www.lecalendal.com

I don't know how if a room will be under E75, but it will be close.

If you want to read more about it, go to our website:

www.davidandcarol.com

Look at our 2003 trip.

Hope this helps!
Carol
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 12:54 PM
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Deb, I have a horrible feeling that I am diverting your thread, especially since I can't offer you any advice about specific B and Bs. However, I just wanted to say to Kathy that she has sent me off into pleasant reverie with the additional photos and trip report links.

Kathy, about that little square you describe in Apt, the one with the tall apartments, the laundry on the balconies, and the residents who have roots in North Africa--we walked through that part of Apt on a rainy Sunday in 2003. It's a part of France tourists rarely see. Like you, I am very glad we walked that way.

Sorry, Deb, now back to your questions ...

Anselm
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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 07:36 PM
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Wow! You guys are awesome! I have already written to Le Clos des Lavandes to check on availability. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this place? My husband says he will live without TV for a week (that's a first!). Kathy, I loved all your photos and will read your trip report tonight. What kind of camera do you have?

Carol, Loved your website and trip report. Fantastic. I've seen Le Calendal on the Rick Stevees Provence special. I'm taking notes like crazy and I know we won't be able to do half of it. The markets are my favorite thing and I can tell we'll be starting each day at a different market!

La Bouquiere looks like a lovely place also, but I'm having trouble with their website and cannot see the photos of the rooms. Again, anybody with first hand knowledge of it??

Thanks to everybody that answered. I'll be up late tonight sifting through all this info!

Deb

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Old Jun 12th, 2006, 08:15 PM
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Deb, I welcome any opportunity to talk to people who are interested in Provence... and to share stories and memories with people like Anselm who love it like I do!

I had another thought for you. If you have a full week for Provence (Saturday to Saturday, if possible), have you thought at all about a rental as an alternative? This would give you a totally different experience-- the experience of "living" in the area. You could shop at the markets for some of your own food, and even save a bit of money by cooking a meal or two at "home".

One of the other regulars on Slow Travel stayed at this place near Menerbes: www.slowtrav.com/france/vr/review.asp?n=1864. This is his review, and there's a link to the specific house. The cost in Sept of last year was less than 62 euro a night. No pool and no breakfast though-- but lots more space to spread out. If you were interested in something like this and wanted to base in one place for a full week, there would be some other alternatives.

Just an idea for you!

Kathy
 
Old Jun 12th, 2006, 08:17 PM
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Thanks for the comments on my pictures too. I have a little Canon Elph S110 digital camera that I've actually had about five years. I take lots of photos which increases the likelihood that some will come out!

Kathy
 
Old Jun 12th, 2006, 08:42 PM
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Thanks again Kathy. We will be there Friday to Friday and can't change that. I did look at a lot of rental properties, but I think we made the decision that since this our first time there, we would like to have English speaking hosts to help us with our daily life. Also, since it's my vacation, I want someone else to make my breakfast! There are just so many choices and so many nice looking places, that it's a tough decision. I've been reading reviews and SlowTrav all night and keeping notes. I'll keep you posted!
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Old Jun 14th, 2006, 06:01 AM
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Kathy, Carol, Anselm, et al......

Just to keep you posted we have emailed both Mas de la Christine and Le Clos de Lavandes and they both have availabilty for our week! I was worried we'd have more trouble than that, but I guess we are going late enough in the month to avoid crowds. So now we have to make the choice!! Any thoughts on these 2 locations? BTW, Clos de Lavandes requires a nonrefundable deposit. Both are roughly the same price.

I've got to get this locked in so I can move on to our accomodations in Cinque Terre and Nice. Thank you so much for all your help. I'm sure I'll be back for more!

Deb
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