hello from Dubrovnik, pt 2

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Sep 12th, 2002, 04:59 AM
  #1
mark
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hello from Dubrovnik, pt 2

Not sure what happened to my original post. Anyway....

Just had one of the most sublime experiences of my trip so far. There is a bar outside the fortress walls, down some twisintg stairs, facing the Adriatic - hard to find.
Imagine the blue green Adriatic, Dean Martin 1960s and Croatian folk music playing, the sunlight glinting off the surface of the calm waters, the occasional huge yatch going by. an occasional swimmer, a bottle of good white wine - absolute bliss.

Tuesday went to Korcula - enjoyable and glad I left the driving to someone else. The morning drive up the coast was breath taking. Korcula, while a bit run down is beautifully situated. Suggestion: always wear your bathing suit underneathe r your clothes - I doffed my clothes at one point and went swimming in the Adriatic - just incredible.

Food is a bit pricey and limited choice. Yesterday though I stopped off and got some local proscuitto, cheese, salami and wine and watched the moon rise over the Old Town.

The walk around the fortress wall is incredible - orange terra cotta roof tile, narrow passege ways, bells tolling - word fail me.

Gotta go - time is about to run out....
 
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Sep 12th, 2002, 08:39 AM
  #2
Julie
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Dubrovnik and environs is at the top of my must do soon list. Thanks for the report. Please send more.
 
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Sep 13th, 2002, 03:10 AM
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mark
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Just a quick update....

Tried to catch a ferry to Lopud today but the schedule in the hotel booklet was wrong. The upside - as i walked backed to the hotel i stopped off at a green market and picked up freshly picked figs and some local herb infused grappa. Stopped off at a butcher last night to get freshly sliced prosiutto and still have plenty left over for this evening.

Last night a group of 5 men wandered around the Old Town playing Croatian folk songs - at one point singing inside one of the small palace's courtyard. Torchers lit, a cool evening breeze and a large group of people intently listening - very sweet.

Going for a swim and then rent a scooter and off to Cavtat. I want to find a bottle of local olive oil - which is suppose to be stronger flavor than italian. In fact they mix the two to make it more publicly appealing. Give me the real stuff.

It was actually cool last night - glad i brought a light jacket. Also - my luggage arrived Wednesday.
 
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Sep 13th, 2002, 05:18 AM
  #4
xxx
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Thanks for posting! I was there earlier this year, stayed at the same hotel, saw the same incredible views and love to read about your experiences. How much longer are you staying?
 
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Sep 13th, 2002, 06:37 AM
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Nancy
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Hi Mark,

Thanks for continuing to post. I saw your original post the other day.

Do you know if there are regularly scheduled ferries to Split from Dubrovnik? Trying to figure out logistics on getting to Hvar from Dubrovnik and looks like taking a ferry or bus to Split, then ferry to Hvar is the way to go.

Your descriptions of Dubrovnik are very enjoyable to read, as well as your experiences there.
 
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Sep 13th, 2002, 10:08 AM
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mark
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Nancy - will stop off at Jardo(something something) and get a schedule for you.

XXX - have been here since last Sunday, and I leave this Sunday (where has the time gone). This place is intoxicating, amazing so few have any interest in coming here. Didnt make it to Cavtat - instead took my proscuitto and figs to Buza, had some wine and went swimming all afternoon. Just finished the walking the walls again - the afternoon sun washes eveything in a beautful glow (my heart aches - I know, how cheesy can I be)

Tomorrow off to Lopud and maybe Sipan where they have local olive oil, which cannot be found in Dubrovnik (go figure)

I dont want to come back.....

Will try and post again, until then, bog (something like aloha - hello, goodbye)
 
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Sep 14th, 2002, 11:00 AM
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mark
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Just got back from a day of island hopping. Imagine hopping a ferry to an island, hiking through knarled pine trees, olive tree groves and vineyards, abandoned farmhouses to a calm cove of blue green water and powdery sand. Had lunch in Lopud - waves lapping at my feet, a gentle breeze, fresh fish and local wine. Life doesnt get any better

All I can say is: Ill be back next year - this place is wonderfully sublime and loving.

I cant believe I have to leave tomorrow. I was so close to missing that ferry....
 
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Sep 14th, 2002, 12:49 PM
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Art
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Thanks for posting Mark. Croatia is number two on my list right now. Will you post pictures when you get back? I've seen some and would love to see more.
 
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Sep 14th, 2002, 01:40 PM
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lina
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We're headed to Dubrovnik next week. We are staying in an apt in the old city that we found on the internet. If it works out I will post the info. We'll be heading up through the islands (Korcula and Hvar) by ferry then on to Slovenia. We made overnight ferry reservations on the Jadrolinija ferry through the Atlas Travel office in Dubrovnik via email with no trouble. I'm so excited!
 
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Sep 16th, 2002, 04:22 AM
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mark
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Got back last night, luggage arrived in tow this time however bad weather rerouted us to Philadelphia where we sat for an hour or so to be refuled then back to Newark about 5 hours later (first time for everthing). Unfortunately the kennel had closed by the time I got in to the city so didn't get to see my dog last night. Did take the air train from Newark Airport to NJ transit to PennStation NY - $11.55 each way versus a $50 cab fare each way.

My last night in the Old Town a concert was being given on the front steps of St. Blaise - female and male accapella groups sang Croatian folk songs. About half way through the concert decided to have dinner at a restaurant I had tried earlier in the week because it was very good, located next to St. Blaise and had outdoor seating. I had seafood risotto, scampi Dalmation style and another excellent white wine while listening to the accapella groups. Afterwards wander around the Old Town - up and down stairs ( they created the original stair master I think) and finally end up at Buza (maybe Guza - I'll check my notes). Watched an orange half moon slowly set into the Adriatic (Mancini's Moon River sung by Lena Horn played in my mind) I could barely tell where the sea ended and the sky began. Left and took one last walk up and down Stradun - which is beautiful late at night because the crowds have diminished and the lights reflect off the highly buffed marble pavers.

Gotta run - ime to go pick up my dog...will post more later.

Art - gotta drop off some rolls of film and will let you know. Unfortunately my 35 was being tempramental (I developed some film while there) but I had brought my Bronica 2 1/4 camera also - so hopefully I'll have some good images.
 
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Sep 16th, 2002, 04:23 AM
  #11
mark
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Got back last night, luggage arrived in tow this time however bad weather rerouted us to Philadelphia where we sat for an hour or so to be refuled then back to Newark about 5 hours later (first time for everthing). Unfortunately the kennel had closed by the time I got in to the city so didn't get to see my dog last night. Did take the air train from Newark Airport to NJ transit to PennStation NY - $11.55 each way versus a $50 cab fare each way.

My last night in the Old Town a concert was being given on the front steps of St. Blaise - female and male accapella groups sang Croatian folk songs. About half way through the concert decided to have dinner at a restaurant I had tried earlier in the week because it was very good, located next to St. Blaise and had outdoor seating. I had seafood risotto, scampi Dalmation style and another excellent white wine while listening to the accapella groups. Afterwards wander around the Old Town - up and down stairs ( they created the original stair master I think) and finally end up at Buza (maybe Guza - I'll check my notes). Watched an orange half moon slowly set into the Adriatic (Mancini's Moon River sung by Lena Horne played in my mind) I could barely tell where the sea ended and the sky began. Left and took one last walk up and down Stradun - which is beautiful late at night because the crowds have diminished and the lights reflect off the highly buffed marble pavers.

Gotta run - ime to go pick up my dog...will post more later.

Art - gotta drop off some rolls of film and will let you know. Unfortunately my 35 was being tempramental (I developed some film while there) but I had brought my Bronica 2 1/4 camera also - so hopefully I'll have some good images.
 
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Sep 16th, 2002, 05:48 AM
  #12
mark
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Sorry for the double post.

Lina - Atlas Travel is very well positioned and seemed very on top of their game - there was even a small office on the island of Lopud to arrange rooms, boats, etc. Please let us know your experience with renting an apartment - I want to conveince friends to come next year
( hotels & restaurants can be pricey) and to island hop up the coastline.
 
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Sep 16th, 2002, 07:53 AM
  #13
kristin
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We were in Split and Dubrovnik in July. We rented rooms through adriatica.net. I don't think there was a www in front of it, but I'm not positive. We found these rooms very inexpensive and nice. They were not too central, but we found local busses easy to deal with and it got us out into the suburbs. I think they had some rentals more central also, but we may have been too late to get them, or (more likely) they were more expensive -- still not really expensive. So try their website!
 
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