I'm trying to put together a Copenhagen-Amsterdam trip later this year, and may have to revise my plans to travel in early December rather than in autumn. I'd be planning to break up the train journey by stopping off in Hamburg. What's the city like during the pre-Christmas season? Any special atmosphere, sights, etc.? I'm interested generally in the old cities of the Hanseatic League, their architecture, etc. I'm also a pushover for lebkuchen and the like, hot chocolate and spiced wine! Any thoughts welcome. Thank you.

ttt, bitte.

dovima,
A business trip brought me to Hamburg back in the late 80's just before Thanksgiving. For a variety of reasons, I was not in a good mood but Hamburg fixed that quickly.

I arrived on a Sunday afternoon and stayed at the Marriott (ABC-Str) on the Gänsemarkt. After taking a nap, I took a walk ~7PM, watching city workers put up Christmas lights. As if on cue, snow began to fall as the lights were lit on a very pretty pedestrian only street. Turning the corner onto the Gänsemarkt square, the Christmas Market (that wasn't there when I arrived) just sprung up. My bad mood melted after a couple of spiced wines and the trip just kept getting better from that point on.

Hamburg architecture-wise has few original buildings but a good deal of faithful restorations (acutally rebuilds). A walk along the Alster (west side), and a visit to the Rathaus are recommended.

You can find a lot of info. at:
http://www.hamburg.de/fhh/internatio...isch/index.htm

hth,

Thank you mj!
I continue to learn so much from fodorites' memories and observations. It's the kind of thing that guidebooks just can't provide.

hi dovima,
Hamburg certainly does not offer the "typical" Germany experience, most tourists in Germany are evidently keen on. There are no lederhosen worn by the population and Hamburg falls behind the conventional kitschy German charm. However, it is to me the most beautiful city in Germany. There is a lot of water around, the port is integral part of downtown as is the alster lake.
I think you will get bigger X- mas markets in the southern parts of Germany, but there a a handful smaller ones spread across downtown. The one with the best atmosphere usually is the one right in front of the city hall (Rathaus), which is organized by Andre Heller of Circus Roncalli. They have really nice and unconventional stalls offering tasty bites to eat and also some nice crafts.
You need to be aware that snow is very scarce in Hamburg as the climate is rather maritime. That means, December will likely be chilly at around 0 degrees C, but with high humidity which does not make you feel too comfy. Still, a trip to Hamburg will definitely be worthwhile and might lead you to coming back in a nicer season like summer.
If you do go, don't miss to take a boat trip on river Elbe- either a guided tour of the port (boats leaving from "Landungsbrücken&quot, which will likely be most interesting on a weekday, rather not a Sunday morning, or take a ferry to Finkenwerder and just take in the skyline from the water, probably at dawn. It's simply beautiful!
Have a great time
hsv

hsv,
Thank you!
I know winter is a long way off right now, but I wanted to get some information so I could stay flexible about my travel dates. I will definitely keep the ferry ride in mind - I love port cities for their energy and that special quality which comes from their proximity to the water.