It was a hard decision not to go back to Rome, but I've decided to return to Dubrovnik in Oct. I was there for 6 days last fall and felt like I just didn't get enough. So, I will be staying in Dubrovnik and doing day trips to islands and inland. Last year I went to Montenegro, Cavtat and Lokrum. This year I would like to go to Mostar and maybe Ston, Korcula. I am also thinking about a wine tour. I'm hoping this time I will be able to just explore the area around Dubrovnik more -walk to Lapad, Gruz and spend time just swimming and lazing on the beach. I would love to hear about any other suggestion on how to spend my 3 weeks - with lots of time at the Buza Bar and other eateries of course.

Also, I noticed last time that I didn't really see anything that was really indigenous to the area, ie., pottery in Tuscany, lavender in S. France, lemons in Amalfi. What are some "must haves" from Croatia?

And, can anyone recommend any good books, novels, or movies set in the area to get me in the mood.

And lastly, I know last year was the year for Croatia, but is anyone going to be in Dubrovnik the 1st three weeks in October?

Anyone??

Oct. in Dubrovnik is NOT beach time.

It can be cool and sunny but also rainy.
To be honest, I would not spend 3 weeks in
the fall in a small place like Dubrovnik.
Although it is a lovely spot to visit, it IS NOT Tuscany or Amalfi.

That's interesting - we, too, would go to Dubrovnik again although we were only there several months ago.

We were in Dubrovnik last October and found it HOT. We had to use the A/C in our apartment. It rained one day so we wore our light rainjackets but other than that only wore short-sleeved shirts. We also did some swimming and saw others swimming as well.

You are lucky to be returning - tell us what you decide to do!

Book you might want to read: Lovers and Madmen by Julie Busic. It`s about an American who marries a guy from there, and their lives. I had a hard time finding anything much to read before I went. You can read about it on Amazon. I had a hard time finding anything to buy, so ended up with nothing from there.

I was there last October and only had one day of rain, and the rest of the time it was HOT! Saw lots of people on the beaches and in swimming. I was told it was not unusual to have it that hot at that time of the year. I felt like I just had a small taste of Dubrovnik last year, that's why I am returning. Of course it's not Tuscany or Amalfi, been to both and loved both places, but Croatia is also very special and beautiful. I want to experience it again, in more depth, before it is another big tourist destination like Tuscany or Amalfi.

Pat, thanks for the book recomm. It is true, not much in the way of novels.

batraveler - what beaches did you go to? I know some are better than others. I am not normally a beach person, but I think it will be fun and relaxing to do this time. Do you have any restaurant recommendations? I tried some very good ones, but am curious about others.

Are the cruise crowds largely missing in October? I visited last August, and I found the central city (within the walls) largely unbearable and unappealing during the day, when the town was attacked by daytrippers. I stayed at Stari Grad, within the city, and Dubrovnik, in the early morning and late at night, when much quieter, was beautiful.

I took the bus from Mostar to Dubrovnik, and its an easy trip (a long, but possible, day trip, but better with a one night stay in Mostar). There is also an incredible train journey to Sarajevo from Mostar, over tressles, bridges and through tunnels, and it may be worth investigating a several day trip into Bosnia to see Mostar and Sarejevo. I posted pictures from my trip, including Mostar, Sarajevo and Dubrovnik on this forum, but they quickly descend (I'm sure you can find them if you search for Mostar).

Have a great trip, Michael

Hi Barb, I bought a pair of canvas shoes from Croatia,(Dubrovnik). They are beaded mules, that are made there, (unless, I was just a naive, trusting tourist). They are cute and comfortable, and I wish I would have listened to my first instinct to get more! We also found some craft/art shops in Dubrovnik and brought back some things from those. And to make a beach suggestion, we really enjoyed the beach on Lopud. It is about a 20 min walk from where the boat drops you off. There were a couple little beachside restaurants there also. Another trip we liked was to Miljet. There are two salt water lakes there, where we enjoyed the swimming--you can swim near the abandoned Monastery, or from pretty much anywhere off the shore. There is bike rental available. We had lunch at one of the restaurants right at the dock. By husband said the mussels were the best he's ever had. They got them out of the water right in front of the dock. Have fun! pp

Have fun Barb.
I was in Dubrovnik for a week in late Sept. 2004 and loved it. If you run out of things to do there for 3 weeks, you can always move away towards Split and futher North along the coast.

While not set in present day Croatia, I read "White Eagles over Serbia" by Lawrence Durrell as a literature book in High school 20+ years ago. The region and environment that it describes is the same. I took it with me to Dubrovnik in 2004 and read it again there. It was a marvellous experience doing that, to read about similar places that you are actually in.
You might find the experience to be the same.

Thanks all, really good suggestions.

Michael: I might look into staying overnight in Mostar. I would love to see Sarajevo and the train trip you describe sounds wonderful. Last Oct. the crowds were not bad, mostly from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00. As you said the mornings and evenings were lovely. I usually planned my day trips accordingly.

PP: Thanks for the info on Lopud. It will definitely be on my list of places to visit - maybe I can find some of those mules too.

Mathieu: I'll check out the book. I too love reading books about the places I am staying. It just brings the book alive. I'm pretty sure I won't run out of things to do and if I do, there is always just the luxury of doing nothing - La Dolce Far Niente - I wonder what it is in Croatian.

BOOKS:

THE SOUND OF BLUE by Holly Payne is a really touching novel which takes place right after the war in the 1990s. The story stayed with me, and I thought about it a lot when I was walking up on the walls in Dubrovnik.

When in Dubrovnik, I stopped at a large bookstore and asked for their suggestions for reading. They told me to get THE BRIDGE OVER THE DRINA by Ivo Andric. It won a Nobel Prize for Literature and is a historic novel. I have not read it yet.

Just checked our library for the books mentioned by salt777 and found that "The Bridge Over the Drina" by Ivo Andric is: "The Bridge ON the Drina"! I just ordered it. The other book mentioned "The Sound of Blue" is not carried by our library system (San Diego). I, too, like to read books about where I am going - headed to Croatia and Slovenia on May 21! All plans made, car rented, etc. Now just have to wait! I read this forum every day to keep up-to-date on the latest info. Thanks everyone! Sasi

Hi Barb...

I am planning to be in Dubrovnik 16-18 October.

My daughter and I will be flying into Split, and at the moment our rough plans are to stay a night in Trogir, driving to Mostar for a night, then on to Montenegro for a night somewhere, followed by 3 nights in Dubrovnik (visit to Korcula/Peljesac peninsula during this time)and then a final night somewhere along the road back to Split.

So far I have booked a room in Trogir, am looking into Mostar options - there are some interesting places, and waiting to hear about a Dubrovnik apartment. I think we'll 'wing it' in Montenegro as I don't know how far south we'll drive and where we'll end up in the evening, and the same on the way back up the coast, maybe stay on Korcula if the car ferry sailings suit.

If our time in Dubrovnik ties in with yours, it would be great to meet up for a drink at the Buza Bar or elsewhere.

I just found and read your trip report the other day - very enjoyable and informative. I have saved it for future reference/research!

Salt: I have the Sound of Blue and for some reason, I just couldn't get into it. I am going to give it another try though as it just might have been other things going on at the time I started it. The other book sounds good too. I'm also interested in reading some of the short stories by Josip Novakovich as they are highly recommended.

Julie: I would definitely like to meet you and your daughter for a drink at the Buza Bar! Your trip sounds fantastic. You will love Montenegro. Is this your 1st trip to Croatia? Having a car will certainly give you the freedom of seeing areas not available to public transport and it will be much easier to just wing it.

Barb

"The Sound of Blue" can be extremely depressing so maybe that had something to do with you not being able to get into it. I read it after my first trip to Croatia. It gave me a much greater feeling for what happened to people during that war. On my second trip to Croatia, I looked at things a little differently and, on some levels, I think I appreciated the beauty of the country and the people even more. But...although moving and touching, it is not a feel good novel.

Great! Let's keep in touch - on here or shall I post my email?

Yes, it is my first time to Croatia though I have been wanting to go for ages. Having a car will be good. Initially I thought we'd do buses and ferries, and visit Hvar and Korcula on our way to Dubrovnik, but then I started to look into Bosnia and Mostar and we decided we had to go there, for more than a day trip, and would drive there from Split en route to Montenegro and then Dubrovnik. Sarajevo is also a big pull, but if we go there we would have to miss out on Montenegro or Dubrovnik, so I think we'll leave it for another time.

My daughter will be 18 then, and it will be our last trip together before she goes off alone on her 'gap year' travels. Most likely to India for 3-6 months. After she's done that she probably won't want to travel with me any more!

Salt: I don't think that was it because I didn't get much past the first chapter. I am going to try it again though. I had studied a little bit of history before last trip, but I felt woefully uneducated and I am determined to read more for this trip and to learn a little more Croatian too.

Julia: yes, let's keep in touch and if you want to send your email, that would be great. I would love the freedom that comes with having a car, but I'm not much of a driver, even at home. So, I'll just have to do the best I can with public transport. I would not recommend the bus trip between Trogir and Dubrovnik, as mentioned in my trip report. The scenary is gorgeous, but not the bus experience. I would love to see Sarajevo too, and maybe an overnight in Mostar. There is just so much to see, that's why I decided to return for a longer stay this time. I would not miss Dubrovnik if I were you. It's just so amazingly beautiful.

I can relate to wanting to travel with your daughter as long as you can. Take heart, my last trip with my son was when he was 23, his last year in college. Every year from age 16 on I kept thinking it might be the last. I have such wonderful memories of our trips together.

Barb - I doubt that I can meet you at the Buza Bar this year. And I can't even think of a book or movie to get you in the mood. But my Croatia photos might help.
http://www.pbase.com/jeff_b/croatia_2006

Jeff: Well I will just have to have a drink at the Buza Bar for you, lol. Your photos are just fabulous and they have magically transported me right back there - Thanks!!

Jeff - What wonderful photos!

I can hardly wait to be there...

Barb - my email is

[email protected]

Look forward to hearing from you and meeting you too!