Glover’s winter trip to Europe
Feb 11th, 2020, 12:07 AM
#61
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Glad to have you along, Sugarmaple.
I’m flattered by your description, Yestravel! I was going to describe myself as tall with short white hair
(thereby distinguishing myself NOT AT ALL from our many contemporaries at the fun gtg)
The pixyish haircut has now nearly reached its 6 week outside limit and is verging on wild. May need to consult ekscrunchy’s fab food trip report on Seville, wherein she also recommends a salon! Mr G and I often get haircuts on these 8 week trips. He, nearly bald for decades, especially enjoys the experience, and we always have a picture. One good one shows Mr G in reclined barber shop chair in darkish tiny shop in very small town Colombia. Standing poised over him is an 80+ year old local with a straight razor in his hand (to trim the beard). Another pic shows us in neighboring chairs at a small place in Vientiane, Laos, where we got 2 quite nice haircuts (dry?) for $10.
I’m flattered by your description, Yestravel! I was going to describe myself as tall with short white hair
(thereby distinguishing myself NOT AT ALL from our many contemporaries at the fun gtg)
The pixyish haircut has now nearly reached its 6 week outside limit and is verging on wild. May need to consult ekscrunchy’s fab food trip report on Seville, wherein she also recommends a salon! Mr G and I often get haircuts on these 8 week trips. He, nearly bald for decades, especially enjoys the experience, and we always have a picture. One good one shows Mr G in reclined barber shop chair in darkish tiny shop in very small town Colombia. Standing poised over him is an 80+ year old local with a straight razor in his hand (to trim the beard). Another pic shows us in neighboring chairs at a small place in Vientiane, Laos, where we got 2 quite nice haircuts (dry?) for $10.
Feb 11th, 2020, 01:26 AM
#62
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Feb 11th, 2020, 05:24 AM
#63
Feb 11th, 2020, 09:48 AM
#64
Going to a hairdressers while you're abroad? Now that's brave. or desperate.
<<I’m going to find the group photo. We’re you both in it?>>
lol, I've just done the same thing. Were you wearing black, glover? i think I've found you. What about you two, YankyGal and sugarmaple? I'm struggling to remember real names let alone screen names.
<<I’m going to find the group photo. We’re you both in it?>>
lol, I've just done the same thing. Were you wearing black, glover? i think I've found you. What about you two, YankyGal and sugarmaple? I'm struggling to remember real names let alone screen names.
Feb 11th, 2020, 11:50 AM
#65
ann, my husband sat beside you at the dinner on Friday. I sat next to him, with the charming TDudette on my other side. I'm over on FB, too.
I met you in Toronto, too. My fragile Canadian ego's just taken a huge hit.
I met you in Toronto, too. My fragile Canadian ego's just taken a huge hit.
Feb 12th, 2020, 01:36 AM
#66
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Too funny - my husband (Tom) sat next to Ann at the Saturday dinner! And we went to Valencia together!
Sugarmaple, we were introduced, I think by yestravel but not 100% certain on that.
We were in the pic. Hoping yestravel will take a stab at describing me, though. 🤣 Short brown hair, red highlights, I think a red sweater that night but need to look at the pic again.
To get back OT a bit, I got my first super-short haircut in my life in Paris about 5 years ago. I prefer to think of myself as a bit adventurous on that trip rather than brave or desperate. 😉
Paula
Sugarmaple, we were introduced, I think by yestravel but not 100% certain on that.
We were in the pic. Hoping yestravel will take a stab at describing me, though. 🤣 Short brown hair, red highlights, I think a red sweater that night but need to look at the pic again.
To get back OT a bit, I got my first super-short haircut in my life in Paris about 5 years ago. I prefer to think of myself as a bit adventurous on that trip rather than brave or desperate. 😉
Paula
Feb 12th, 2020, 07:33 AM
#67
<<I met you in Toronto, too. My fragile Canadian ego's just taken a huge hit>>
oh no, sugar maple - I certainly didn't intend to hurt anyone's feelings but the screen names are so confusing when you've met people IRL and think of them by their real names!
<<Too funny - my husband (Tom) sat next to Ann at the Saturday dinner! And we went to Valencia together!>>
Of course, YankyGal. I've just gone back to the group photo and it all fell into place. The real life names are what have stuck with me.
oh no, sugar maple - I certainly didn't intend to hurt anyone's feelings but the screen names are so confusing when you've met people IRL and think of them by their real names!
<<Too funny - my husband (Tom) sat next to Ann at the Saturday dinner! And we went to Valencia together!>>
Of course, YankyGal. I've just gone back to the group photo and it all fell into place. The real life names are what have stuck with me.
Feb 27th, 2020, 12:40 PM
#68
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3 glorious weeks in Seville
Took a taxi from Seville train station to Triana neighborhood and were met at downstairs door by our Air bnb hostess. Up 2 flights of steps to our nice little apt. Building is typical centuries old 3 level one with inner courtyard surrounded by apts. We were very pleased with our digs. Brand new bath with super shower. Efficient IKEA kitchen with very fast heating 2 burner stove, oven, and washer. Great IKEA like closet in bedroom. Pull out drawers, pullout pants hangers. Nice shelves and lights next to bed. Very well thought out, wanted to take it home. Maybe 400 square feet or so. Lots of light. We can walk out door onto roof with table and chairs for enjoying Seville sun. Up another roof level are lots of clotheslines for hanging laundry. We are initially concerned about cold temperature in apt. Only “heat” is a rolling plug in electric heater, which produces a faint breath of lukewarm air. However, the place warms up after a day or two and is then just fine for rest of our Stay.
Go to nearby grocery store for some basics. Do some laundry and drape it around big inside drying rack. Go to dinner at Abaceria Antigua just down the block on our Street (Pureza), which is just one street over from the river. Everything else opens too late. Abaceria has a jolly host, nice atmosphere and so so food. We have odd collection of tapas: Tomatoes with red tuna, bean and wild boar stew, and sautéed potatoes.
Next day go and look around the large and wonderful Mercado de Triana just down our street. Buy ham, salami, cheese, asparagus, chicken, and potatoes. Do some walking across the beautiful Isabela bridge and into city center. Stumble upon El Corte Ingles home store and buy cheap French press to make coffee. We are not fond of the silver pot in our apt, which seems common in Spain, but is messy and percolates the coffee. Have cocktail hour with meat, cheese,and bread on roof. Later make chicken, potato, asparagus dinner at home,
Next day, take off across bridge for walk to Maria Luisa park and Plaza de Espana, stunning!! Beautiful, nice weather around 70, clear sunny skies. Watch amateur capoeira, amazing athletic martial arts which we had seen and enjoyed last year in Brazil. Another group of older women, clearly friends, are doing some spontaneous Flamenco. There are also two demonstrations in centro on Sunday, one regarding animal rights and the other protesting threatened health care and pension benefits. Back in our Triana neighborhood, we decide to get some cash from ATM. Unfortunately the CAIXA bank machine eats Mr. G’s card. Naturally it is Sunday, the bank is closed, and we have let our 30 day Sim phonecards expire and haven’t yet reupped. And of course we have committed to a full day out of town next day. Fortunately we have backups for getting cash. So go home have cocktail hour on roof and then another dinner at home.
On Monday we are picked up at 8 at our apt by bird guide Vicente Cellar of Donana Wings. We drive short distance out of Seville to Donana nature area, the largest wetland in Western Europe at 210 square miles. Another perfect weather day. Vicent is an excellent guide and finds us 70 + bird species, many of which are new to us. See 70 species. After a long day out, we are pooped and decide to just walk down street to another tapas joint that is alleged to be open all day. Turns out it isn’t so we end up at another in the plaza around the corner from our apt. Taverna de Papel? Have weird collection of food: pigs cheeks, steak in whiskey sauce, spinach and chickpeas. I thought the good only so so, but Mr . G really liked the pork cheeks. 2 drinks each. Total bill about 30+ E . Jolly French/English conversation with friendly Belgians at next table.
Next day slept till 8:30. Eventual breakfast of hash browns and scrambled eggs, use of French press procured yesterday. More laundry in own kitchen. Actually enjoy the experience of hanging clothes to dry on sunny roof. Go to nearby movie star store and get new 30 day SIMS for phones. Go to CAIXA bank with little hope, explain issue in Spanish. Mr G provides ID, clerK goes away and amazingly returns with card. Even more amazingly, our credit union turns card back on after turning it off day before. Yay. We both then get money from fee free Cajasur atm. Get some more groceries. Sit on sunny roof for cocktail hour. Make shrimp scampi like dinner from “Spain on a Fork” blog. Bought 20 large shrimp for 3 or 4 E. We are amazed how far our money goes at the grocery store here!
Next am go to real market for more cheese, sausage, bread, and lamb albondigas
(Meatballs). Nice woman at popular cheese/meat stand is very kind and helpful re varieties, amounts, and prices. Also buy 10 E flower bouquet from Antonio who appears to be market’s sole flower vendor. Today’s walking goal is old wall and city gate in Macarena district. Walk a long part of the way there along north east side of river. Wide walking and bike paths. Very few people. A+ weather once again. Get good view across river of Expo 92 installations (bridge, rocket, other buildings) engendering some curiosity about the Expo, as well as PIRATE exhibit promoted at one of the buildings. Quite empty bike path makes me want to ride, but alas not Mr G apparently. Went to Macarena basilica, found winding streets of Santa Cruz and wandered around in there, passed famed Romeo and Juliet balcony, one delightful building after another. One labeled the consulate of Estonia was particularly attractive. It was a big loop of a walk, possibly 6 miles. Home for cocktail hour on roof and later lamb meatballs and brussel sprouts for small dinner at home.
Next day sleep till 8:30 or so as usual by now. Linger over coffee and breakfast. Our goal for today’s walk is Palacio de Pilatos. Nice long walk in some new territory. Fab place, saw only first floor. The Casa de Pilatos is considered one of the finest examples of Andalusian architecture of 16th-century Seville. All walls in beautiful different tiles, mudajar style ceilings and other decor. Then walked on to Las Setas de Seville (the Metropol Parasol) the super modern giant wooden mushroom looking structure that spans a couple blocks and won a competition related to the renovation of the surrounding plaza. Very odd/interesting. Walk to top of course and have fun looking out over city at various landmarks around. Stumble upon El Corte del Ingles major store and cruise first the amazing gourmet food store on level 5 and then the pretty darn good super mercado in the basement. Buy a jar of romescu, one of my favorite things in the world. This dept store occupies one entire big block in downtown Seville. Home for cocktails on roof, more lamb meatballs, crash.
Next day go to nearby electronics store to replace Mr. G’s power cord. Then go to Ceramics Center/museum in Triana. Well done little museum. Good explanations in English and Spanish. Nicely done building surrounds remnants of old ceramics factory for which Triana is known. Good film with recollections of long time employees. Then walk down beyond our bridge to part of Castillo Street we hadn’t seen to see where small Flamenco tablau I’ve read about is. Then Loop back home along river on Betis Street. On this part of Betis, the buildings back to river, very few restaurants and store fronts like on Betis near us.
Then go to ruins of Castillo de San Jorge, inquisition castle/fortress ruins under market. We’re only ones walking down there. A series of raised walkways, well narrated, through the fairly extensive ruins. Take a spin through the market as most vendors are shutting for day. Home for cocktail hour. Walk across bridge and well beyond cathedral to have dinner at La Gallina Bianca, cute Italian. Made online reservation (yay) for8pm. Place filled up quickly, tourist prices. Great pizza crust and super fresh Romain salad. Drop dead handsome server, though took a while to bring drinks. Nice walk back in mild temps, new route, and lit up Seville. Lots of people out on Friday night. Pass the fancy Alfonso xiii hotel - really fabulous building! Turns out it’s a Marriott.
Next day go to supermarket. Walk to Cartuja, where old expo 92 installations are. Looked around CAIXA forum. Went to Pabellon to check info on pirate exhibit. Decided to return next week when there’s projected to be English narration available. Went to permanent navigation exhibit instead. Ended up spending a pretty long time there. Thought it well done. Especially design wise. Modern, airy. Then walked to nearby Monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas, now contemporary art museum. Nice building/grounds, the usual odd stuff inside and very little of it. Cocktail hour at home, followed by 8:30 Rez at Puratasca in Triana. Google maps dead ended us in wrong spot, fortunately only a few blocks off. Loved this place. We were only tourists I think. Small and busy. Had cod fish “lollipops,” solomillo (beef filet) ( me), lamb for Mr G, risotto like rice with mushrooms as well. All delicious. Ok liquid like cheesecake for dessert. Thanks to Fodor’s own Ekscrunchy
for this and many other Seville food recs!
Another Sunday, so took long walk back to Park and Plaza de Espana. Plaza not nearly as active as last Sunday. Small gay rights demo nearby. Watched some Flamenco in plaza. Meandered over toward pretty Salvador church and bought combo tix for it and Cathedral. That turned out to be a good move, as ticket buying line for the Cathedral appeared very long every time we passed it, even in February. Like the Salvador church quite a lot. Busy with gold, but not too much else. Rather simple ..... relatively speaking. Nice modern geometric stained glass. Walked home, had cocktail hour on roof and then dinner at home of pasta with sauce and SALAD.
Next day went to the cathedral. Huge. Amazing. Long line to get tix even in Feb, so glad we had some. Spend long time there. C Columbus tomb outstanding. Stopped on way home again at El Corte Ingles for Vermentino wine that I like and few other things. A great place. Also stopped in at the Chapel of Mariners across street from our bldg and the very old Santa Ana church around the corner. Magellan prayed here before his “longest voyage”. Later walk over to riverside street for pizza at Don Camilo e Peppone for pizza. Only so so. Come out to full moon over Guadalquivir River, lighted old bldgs and bridge reflected in river. Beautiful, take lots of pictures.
Next day take hour boat ride down Guadalquivir. Just nice to get different perspective on buildings on both sides of the river, though at 17 E rather expensive for an hour trip that is minimally narrated. Some commentary in 4 or 5 languages. Go to Seville’s beautiful old bull ring and do their little tour. Nice to see the building inside and out and hear about tradition. No fights now, season starts in April. Head west toward Cartuja area again. Walk all way down to my fav modern bridge, which I’ve admired previously only from the distance, walking along the rather quiet northern side of river. Check out some of expo 92 installations closer up, including the former Moroccan Pavilion, now the Fundacion Tres Culturas , a very beautiful building. Would have liked to have seen inside, but is apparently only available via quite expensive group tours. The foundation’s mission is to “create a forum that, based on the principles of peace, dialogue and tolerance, promotes the meeting between peoples and cultures of the Mediterranean.” We were also intrigued by the huge modern outdoor event venue that seats 6000, as well as a few other theatres . All interesting architecture. Run into Dutch contemporary couple - both on bikes- staring at same weird abandoned bldg we have noticed. It turns out to have been the Expo 92’s Hungarian Pavilion, later used to promote renewable energy, but now abandoned. Have nice 15 min or so conversation with them. They travel around in a small trailer, which they use for lodging. And by day tour on their bikes. We walk around the monastery at Cartuja once again, this time on side of the former ceramic factory. Walk back to Triana and to go all way to big Mercadona market and buy shrimp again for at home dinner.
By now, it is February 12. We do our usual lazing around in the am. Go to Alcazar and quarters. Fantastic of course. Spend a couple hours. Miss some garden space. Sit down in nearby and have delicious churros and chocolate. Wander into ancient
Hospital de Los Venerables (old hospital for retired priests), but decide to come back later. Enjoy pretty nearby park. Watch some street Flamenco. Wander home. Mr G does laundry. Piddle around till after 8 when we walk to Las Golondrinas in Triana for tapas dinner. This nearby tapas bar had been recommended to us by both our air bnb hostess and our local bird guide. Everything we had was simple but good and cheap. 2 orders of pork tenderloin, lamb skewer, radishes, cod confit, grilled mushrooms. Stop for ice cream in our plaza. Pretty quiet tonight in the nabe tonight.
Feb 13. Laze around. Go to real market. Schmooze. Buy hamburger. Later walk over to archive museum and see their permanent exhibit (the longest voyage) re Magellan’s voyage that started and ended in Seville. Spent maybe a couple hours. Really well done. Can’t believe we’ve only heard of Magellan, who started voyage, but not Elcano who finished it. Came home. Cocktails on roof. Make dinner of burgers, Brussels sprouts and potatoes.
Feb. 14.
Laze around. Do some more laundry. Enjoy hanging it in bright sun on roof to dry. Go to supermarket. Eat little snack. Walk over bridge and go to fab Flamenco at El Arsenal, great bday treat to me from lovely stepdaughter. Great dinner at 9 back at Puratasca. 5 tapas: candied artichoke, potato salad, meat balls, chorizo lollipops, foie with smoked pineapple. Super nice server Angelise. She and Mr ag connect over... what else... Indiana. Seems she had once lived in a Indianapolis. Loved this place.
Feb 15. Laze around. I go over to market and wander around. Buy a couple of huge Lilies to replenish ones I have. Antonio flower vendor doesn’t have much one day after Valentines Day. Later we walk over to navigation museum to see pirate exhibit. Fairly shallow. Walk across far bridge to San Lorenzo and check out another Ekscrunchy restaurant rec: Bar Eslava. It is crazy busy. Note that Abaceria San Lorenzo (yet another Eks rec) is down street, so go there. Have to wait maybe 10 mins or so for table. Lots of fun in this rocking cozy old spot with good food. Am keen to try some of the dishes eks described lovingly here. “Pringa” (famous Seville meat sandwich) and judiones (Andalusian beans). Neither are on the menu. But I ask server about them, who then asks owner (always in position at cash register). Answer is yes for pringa, but do we want sandwich or crepe? Before I can answer, Mr G says “crepe.” Not what I had in mind, but nevertheless turns out to be quite delicious. What we end up with as a result of our question about the judiones is Bean soup. Not that exciting. Also have salted baked ham, skewer of prawn, potato, pepper, bacon, and ... Something else.... couple drinks each. $35! Walked past another Eks rec , Azotea , to see where it is for future reference..... lots of people out on street . Another fab weather day. Stop for ice cream in Triana. Home.
Feb 16. Laze around in am. Watch neighbors set up for paella cookout on shared roof deck We get invited, but decline. Eventually go out for long walk along other side of river toward docks. Nice there too. Stop at Torre Del Oro on way, go up for nice view on another fab day. Also there is small maritime museum. More about when Spain ruled the seas. Small but very well done. Walk on to Museum area near Maria Luisa Park. Do some of that and some Plaza de Espana. More free Flamenco. This time a male singer and dancer along with woman. Back through park and home along river. So many people out playing on gorgeous Sunday. Some just sitting at river’s edge, others at bars, others walking, riding bikes, skating, on scooters, boats on river. Lovely. At home neighbors are wrapping up party. Eat pasta and salad dinner at home. Crash
Feb 17. Drink coffee. I go to market for class I signed up for earlier: a tour round the market, and then a cooking and eating class at Taller Andulusa de Cocina. Inez takes 8 of us (fam from Atlanta, bro & sis from Phil and NY, solo guy from Zurich) around market, tells about cheese, ham, saffron, paprika, some veggies and fruits now in season. No fish today because fish guys are closed on Mondays. Then we go back to their nice studio in market where chef Dom, doing most of work, and rest of us prep. We make salmorejo, spinach with chick peas, chicken paella. Drink sangria, wine, and beer. Delicious dessert/drink - even I can make: Lemon (or other citrus) sorbet, mint, and Brut Cava- blended in blender. Quite delicious. This was a wonderful experience. Lots of cooking classes around, but I chose this one based on rec from Fodor’s very helpful Maribel- so thanks Maribel! Mr G gets some time to himself and walks over to park/plaza. Later we walk out to for another tapas dinner at Las Golondrinas.
Feb 18. Drink coffee. Go to Bellas Artes Museum and the Hospital de Los Venerables. It’s rather expensive in comparison to other sites with less to see, especially since contemporary art exhibit there is closed. But the usual nice courtyards, lots of nice tile, paintings. Used audio guides this time and spent quite some time learning about Pacheco, Murillo, Velasquez. On to Bellas Artes. Beautiful building outside and in. Lots and lots of religious art. Impressive sculpture, esp wood of ??.? Sculptor name. Then went on to Bar Eslava at about 5:30. Yay, no one there! Scored nice table inside. Great food indeed! and really liked their Verdejo - Finca de Vertel. We had 7 tapas and 3 drinks each for $35! Great slow cooked egg on boletus cake (spongy mushroom), a cuttlefish/algae cigar,
And others. All were wonderful. A great place! Have fun conversation with Irish couple at next table. Then another fun conversation with Afrikaners now living in Switzerland on way out. Walk home.
Feb 19. Get out earlier than usual, walk to bus station and take 170 bus to Italica, old Roman ruins outside Seville. Very extensive with many wonderful mosaic floors, mostly intact. So glad we made the effort to get out and see these. Spend about 3 hours there, bus back to town. Starving, we stop at Bodeguita Romero to try their pringas and some other tapas before they close at 5. Get nice seat at bar. Potato and prawn salad, 3 pringas, shrimp Fritter, fried eggplant sticks with honey, 1 small and 1 large beer,1 glass white wine. About 20eu. All were delicious. Thanks again Eks - another great rec. Walk home and hang out there rest of eve.
Feb 20. Mr. G goes to grocery store, I go ceramic shopping, and Flamenco dress looking (for granddaughter) in Triana. Buy a ceramic egg plate as gift. Walk across bridge with idea of scoring very late lunch at Azotea Santa Cruz. Hardly anyone there. Small menu, sit at table outside. Have very good salmorejo, grilled veggies covered with cheese ?? and an egg, and simple cooked and filleted whole fish. All good but neither of us were knocked out by food or service. Pop into and out of stores on way back to Triana. Mr G is happy to buy me selected interesting necklace at Johari Contemporaneo store as Bday present. A great little store with very interesting and inexpensive designer jewelry ALSO on the Eks Seville etc list. Have nice chat with the very helpful employee there who turns out to be originally from Salvador, Brazil, where we visited last year.
Hang out awhile at apt and then go to another Flamenco show virtually next door at Theatre Flamenco Triana. Great deal. $15 for each of us seniors. Nice little theater a couple doors down. Male and female dancer, singer and guitarist. All excellent!
Feb 21. Lazed around. Went down street to tour shop and bought Flamenco dress and accessories for granddaughter. Walked over bridge to Maestdanza studio and took 1 1/2 hour Flamenco lesson. Fun. Young Austrian couple and me. Mr G came by when we were done and we went for very another early dinner at Eslava. This time we enjoy sitting at the bar. 6 tapas, 2 drinks each, and expensive desserts for $50. Fabulous manchego cheese ice cream. Definitely a highlight! Repeated artichoke with fried garlic, and shaved cod tapa, also ribs with honey. And fried anchovies, asparagus, pork with blue cheese sauce, and another, beet tataki.
All delish. My dessert was roasted pineapple carpaccio with ginger and coconut ice cream. Good, but couldn’t match that manchego ice cream. Go back to Triana for another next door Flamenco. Smaller crowd this time. We sit in front row. This performance, more serious, stylized. Male singer has better voice and takes up more space and stage time. Young female dancer. Both man and woman are good. Man perhaps a little more posey than I might like. But all in all great entertainment especially for 15 E each!
Feb 22. Lazed around. I went for one last schmooze in market and ceramics stores.
Bought smoked paprika and saffron, and small amt of cheese, salami, and bread for later snack. Long walk over to casa de las Duenas. Another Royal House. Beautiful gardens and insides. “One of finest examples of nobilaria.” Some flowers in bloom - clivia, lantana, orange blossoms just starting, some bougainvillea, hibiscus, almond trees (looking like our cherry blossoms). Wandered through tiny streets back home. Cocktails on roof. Later go out to the friendly and delicious Puratasca, such a nice little place. This time we share candied artichokes, fideos with seafood, somerejo with almonds and strawberries. All good. Glass of cava from our favorite server Angelica in honor of my bday and last day in Seville tomorrow. Say goodbye.
Feb 23. My 70th bday. Omg. Laze around. Mr G makes French toast for breakfast. Awake to sounds of Seville marathon start. Watch on line through first male and female finishers. Africans., natch. Go out about 12:30. Go to finish line near Maria Luisa Park. Watch some stragglers come in At 4 hours. Last tour of Plaza de Espana. Watch some more free Flamenco. Go to Petit Comite and have fab bday lunch. Really nice little restaurant. Full. Great service by 3 or 4 servers p, including 2 charming guys. Help with menu. Have potato and prawn salad, salmon carpaccio with rocket salad, and tuna Rosa with balsamic balls (??!!!!) on caramelized onions. All was wonderful. Then fried coconut milk with cinnamon ice cream. Like a congealed coconut milk thing with candle , flan like consistency. 3 drinks each. $65 or so....Then free cava from server for bday. Staggered home. Looked longingly crossing bridge for last time — at Triana, at river, at boats on river (new electric stand up boards this time!), at sun and blue sky. ☹️ What a delightful city!
Next up: Toledo
Took a taxi from Seville train station to Triana neighborhood and were met at downstairs door by our Air bnb hostess. Up 2 flights of steps to our nice little apt. Building is typical centuries old 3 level one with inner courtyard surrounded by apts. We were very pleased with our digs. Brand new bath with super shower. Efficient IKEA kitchen with very fast heating 2 burner stove, oven, and washer. Great IKEA like closet in bedroom. Pull out drawers, pullout pants hangers. Nice shelves and lights next to bed. Very well thought out, wanted to take it home. Maybe 400 square feet or so. Lots of light. We can walk out door onto roof with table and chairs for enjoying Seville sun. Up another roof level are lots of clotheslines for hanging laundry. We are initially concerned about cold temperature in apt. Only “heat” is a rolling plug in electric heater, which produces a faint breath of lukewarm air. However, the place warms up after a day or two and is then just fine for rest of our Stay.
Go to nearby grocery store for some basics. Do some laundry and drape it around big inside drying rack. Go to dinner at Abaceria Antigua just down the block on our Street (Pureza), which is just one street over from the river. Everything else opens too late. Abaceria has a jolly host, nice atmosphere and so so food. We have odd collection of tapas: Tomatoes with red tuna, bean and wild boar stew, and sautéed potatoes.
Next day go and look around the large and wonderful Mercado de Triana just down our street. Buy ham, salami, cheese, asparagus, chicken, and potatoes. Do some walking across the beautiful Isabela bridge and into city center. Stumble upon El Corte Ingles home store and buy cheap French press to make coffee. We are not fond of the silver pot in our apt, which seems common in Spain, but is messy and percolates the coffee. Have cocktail hour with meat, cheese,and bread on roof. Later make chicken, potato, asparagus dinner at home,
Next day, take off across bridge for walk to Maria Luisa park and Plaza de Espana, stunning!! Beautiful, nice weather around 70, clear sunny skies. Watch amateur capoeira, amazing athletic martial arts which we had seen and enjoyed last year in Brazil. Another group of older women, clearly friends, are doing some spontaneous Flamenco. There are also two demonstrations in centro on Sunday, one regarding animal rights and the other protesting threatened health care and pension benefits. Back in our Triana neighborhood, we decide to get some cash from ATM. Unfortunately the CAIXA bank machine eats Mr. G’s card. Naturally it is Sunday, the bank is closed, and we have let our 30 day Sim phonecards expire and haven’t yet reupped. And of course we have committed to a full day out of town next day. Fortunately we have backups for getting cash. So go home have cocktail hour on roof and then another dinner at home.
On Monday we are picked up at 8 at our apt by bird guide Vicente Cellar of Donana Wings. We drive short distance out of Seville to Donana nature area, the largest wetland in Western Europe at 210 square miles. Another perfect weather day. Vicent is an excellent guide and finds us 70 + bird species, many of which are new to us. See 70 species. After a long day out, we are pooped and decide to just walk down street to another tapas joint that is alleged to be open all day. Turns out it isn’t so we end up at another in the plaza around the corner from our apt. Taverna de Papel? Have weird collection of food: pigs cheeks, steak in whiskey sauce, spinach and chickpeas. I thought the good only so so, but Mr . G really liked the pork cheeks. 2 drinks each. Total bill about 30+ E . Jolly French/English conversation with friendly Belgians at next table.
Next day slept till 8:30. Eventual breakfast of hash browns and scrambled eggs, use of French press procured yesterday. More laundry in own kitchen. Actually enjoy the experience of hanging clothes to dry on sunny roof. Go to nearby movie star store and get new 30 day SIMS for phones. Go to CAIXA bank with little hope, explain issue in Spanish. Mr G provides ID, clerK goes away and amazingly returns with card. Even more amazingly, our credit union turns card back on after turning it off day before. Yay. We both then get money from fee free Cajasur atm. Get some more groceries. Sit on sunny roof for cocktail hour. Make shrimp scampi like dinner from “Spain on a Fork” blog. Bought 20 large shrimp for 3 or 4 E. We are amazed how far our money goes at the grocery store here!
Next am go to real market for more cheese, sausage, bread, and lamb albondigas
(Meatballs). Nice woman at popular cheese/meat stand is very kind and helpful re varieties, amounts, and prices. Also buy 10 E flower bouquet from Antonio who appears to be market’s sole flower vendor. Today’s walking goal is old wall and city gate in Macarena district. Walk a long part of the way there along north east side of river. Wide walking and bike paths. Very few people. A+ weather once again. Get good view across river of Expo 92 installations (bridge, rocket, other buildings) engendering some curiosity about the Expo, as well as PIRATE exhibit promoted at one of the buildings. Quite empty bike path makes me want to ride, but alas not Mr G apparently. Went to Macarena basilica, found winding streets of Santa Cruz and wandered around in there, passed famed Romeo and Juliet balcony, one delightful building after another. One labeled the consulate of Estonia was particularly attractive. It was a big loop of a walk, possibly 6 miles. Home for cocktail hour on roof and later lamb meatballs and brussel sprouts for small dinner at home.
Next day sleep till 8:30 or so as usual by now. Linger over coffee and breakfast. Our goal for today’s walk is Palacio de Pilatos. Nice long walk in some new territory. Fab place, saw only first floor. The Casa de Pilatos is considered one of the finest examples of Andalusian architecture of 16th-century Seville. All walls in beautiful different tiles, mudajar style ceilings and other decor. Then walked on to Las Setas de Seville (the Metropol Parasol) the super modern giant wooden mushroom looking structure that spans a couple blocks and won a competition related to the renovation of the surrounding plaza. Very odd/interesting. Walk to top of course and have fun looking out over city at various landmarks around. Stumble upon El Corte del Ingles major store and cruise first the amazing gourmet food store on level 5 and then the pretty darn good super mercado in the basement. Buy a jar of romescu, one of my favorite things in the world. This dept store occupies one entire big block in downtown Seville. Home for cocktails on roof, more lamb meatballs, crash.
Next day go to nearby electronics store to replace Mr. G’s power cord. Then go to Ceramics Center/museum in Triana. Well done little museum. Good explanations in English and Spanish. Nicely done building surrounds remnants of old ceramics factory for which Triana is known. Good film with recollections of long time employees. Then walk down beyond our bridge to part of Castillo Street we hadn’t seen to see where small Flamenco tablau I’ve read about is. Then Loop back home along river on Betis Street. On this part of Betis, the buildings back to river, very few restaurants and store fronts like on Betis near us.
Then go to ruins of Castillo de San Jorge, inquisition castle/fortress ruins under market. We’re only ones walking down there. A series of raised walkways, well narrated, through the fairly extensive ruins. Take a spin through the market as most vendors are shutting for day. Home for cocktail hour. Walk across bridge and well beyond cathedral to have dinner at La Gallina Bianca, cute Italian. Made online reservation (yay) for8pm. Place filled up quickly, tourist prices. Great pizza crust and super fresh Romain salad. Drop dead handsome server, though took a while to bring drinks. Nice walk back in mild temps, new route, and lit up Seville. Lots of people out on Friday night. Pass the fancy Alfonso xiii hotel - really fabulous building! Turns out it’s a Marriott.
Next day go to supermarket. Walk to Cartuja, where old expo 92 installations are. Looked around CAIXA forum. Went to Pabellon to check info on pirate exhibit. Decided to return next week when there’s projected to be English narration available. Went to permanent navigation exhibit instead. Ended up spending a pretty long time there. Thought it well done. Especially design wise. Modern, airy. Then walked to nearby Monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas, now contemporary art museum. Nice building/grounds, the usual odd stuff inside and very little of it. Cocktail hour at home, followed by 8:30 Rez at Puratasca in Triana. Google maps dead ended us in wrong spot, fortunately only a few blocks off. Loved this place. We were only tourists I think. Small and busy. Had cod fish “lollipops,” solomillo (beef filet) ( me), lamb for Mr G, risotto like rice with mushrooms as well. All delicious. Ok liquid like cheesecake for dessert. Thanks to Fodor’s own Ekscrunchy
for this and many other Seville food recs!
Another Sunday, so took long walk back to Park and Plaza de Espana. Plaza not nearly as active as last Sunday. Small gay rights demo nearby. Watched some Flamenco in plaza. Meandered over toward pretty Salvador church and bought combo tix for it and Cathedral. That turned out to be a good move, as ticket buying line for the Cathedral appeared very long every time we passed it, even in February. Like the Salvador church quite a lot. Busy with gold, but not too much else. Rather simple ..... relatively speaking. Nice modern geometric stained glass. Walked home, had cocktail hour on roof and then dinner at home of pasta with sauce and SALAD.
Next day went to the cathedral. Huge. Amazing. Long line to get tix even in Feb, so glad we had some. Spend long time there. C Columbus tomb outstanding. Stopped on way home again at El Corte Ingles for Vermentino wine that I like and few other things. A great place. Also stopped in at the Chapel of Mariners across street from our bldg and the very old Santa Ana church around the corner. Magellan prayed here before his “longest voyage”. Later walk over to riverside street for pizza at Don Camilo e Peppone for pizza. Only so so. Come out to full moon over Guadalquivir River, lighted old bldgs and bridge reflected in river. Beautiful, take lots of pictures.
Next day take hour boat ride down Guadalquivir. Just nice to get different perspective on buildings on both sides of the river, though at 17 E rather expensive for an hour trip that is minimally narrated. Some commentary in 4 or 5 languages. Go to Seville’s beautiful old bull ring and do their little tour. Nice to see the building inside and out and hear about tradition. No fights now, season starts in April. Head west toward Cartuja area again. Walk all way down to my fav modern bridge, which I’ve admired previously only from the distance, walking along the rather quiet northern side of river. Check out some of expo 92 installations closer up, including the former Moroccan Pavilion, now the Fundacion Tres Culturas , a very beautiful building. Would have liked to have seen inside, but is apparently only available via quite expensive group tours. The foundation’s mission is to “create a forum that, based on the principles of peace, dialogue and tolerance, promotes the meeting between peoples and cultures of the Mediterranean.” We were also intrigued by the huge modern outdoor event venue that seats 6000, as well as a few other theatres . All interesting architecture. Run into Dutch contemporary couple - both on bikes- staring at same weird abandoned bldg we have noticed. It turns out to have been the Expo 92’s Hungarian Pavilion, later used to promote renewable energy, but now abandoned. Have nice 15 min or so conversation with them. They travel around in a small trailer, which they use for lodging. And by day tour on their bikes. We walk around the monastery at Cartuja once again, this time on side of the former ceramic factory. Walk back to Triana and to go all way to big Mercadona market and buy shrimp again for at home dinner.
By now, it is February 12. We do our usual lazing around in the am. Go to Alcazar and quarters. Fantastic of course. Spend a couple hours. Miss some garden space. Sit down in nearby and have delicious churros and chocolate. Wander into ancient
Hospital de Los Venerables (old hospital for retired priests), but decide to come back later. Enjoy pretty nearby park. Watch some street Flamenco. Wander home. Mr G does laundry. Piddle around till after 8 when we walk to Las Golondrinas in Triana for tapas dinner. This nearby tapas bar had been recommended to us by both our air bnb hostess and our local bird guide. Everything we had was simple but good and cheap. 2 orders of pork tenderloin, lamb skewer, radishes, cod confit, grilled mushrooms. Stop for ice cream in our plaza. Pretty quiet tonight in the nabe tonight.
Feb 13. Laze around. Go to real market. Schmooze. Buy hamburger. Later walk over to archive museum and see their permanent exhibit (the longest voyage) re Magellan’s voyage that started and ended in Seville. Spent maybe a couple hours. Really well done. Can’t believe we’ve only heard of Magellan, who started voyage, but not Elcano who finished it. Came home. Cocktails on roof. Make dinner of burgers, Brussels sprouts and potatoes.
Feb. 14.
Laze around. Do some more laundry. Enjoy hanging it in bright sun on roof to dry. Go to supermarket. Eat little snack. Walk over bridge and go to fab Flamenco at El Arsenal, great bday treat to me from lovely stepdaughter. Great dinner at 9 back at Puratasca. 5 tapas: candied artichoke, potato salad, meat balls, chorizo lollipops, foie with smoked pineapple. Super nice server Angelise. She and Mr ag connect over... what else... Indiana. Seems she had once lived in a Indianapolis. Loved this place.
Feb 15. Laze around. I go over to market and wander around. Buy a couple of huge Lilies to replenish ones I have. Antonio flower vendor doesn’t have much one day after Valentines Day. Later we walk over to navigation museum to see pirate exhibit. Fairly shallow. Walk across far bridge to San Lorenzo and check out another Ekscrunchy restaurant rec: Bar Eslava. It is crazy busy. Note that Abaceria San Lorenzo (yet another Eks rec) is down street, so go there. Have to wait maybe 10 mins or so for table. Lots of fun in this rocking cozy old spot with good food. Am keen to try some of the dishes eks described lovingly here. “Pringa” (famous Seville meat sandwich) and judiones (Andalusian beans). Neither are on the menu. But I ask server about them, who then asks owner (always in position at cash register). Answer is yes for pringa, but do we want sandwich or crepe? Before I can answer, Mr G says “crepe.” Not what I had in mind, but nevertheless turns out to be quite delicious. What we end up with as a result of our question about the judiones is Bean soup. Not that exciting. Also have salted baked ham, skewer of prawn, potato, pepper, bacon, and ... Something else.... couple drinks each. $35! Walked past another Eks rec , Azotea , to see where it is for future reference..... lots of people out on street . Another fab weather day. Stop for ice cream in Triana. Home.
Feb 16. Laze around in am. Watch neighbors set up for paella cookout on shared roof deck We get invited, but decline. Eventually go out for long walk along other side of river toward docks. Nice there too. Stop at Torre Del Oro on way, go up for nice view on another fab day. Also there is small maritime museum. More about when Spain ruled the seas. Small but very well done. Walk on to Museum area near Maria Luisa Park. Do some of that and some Plaza de Espana. More free Flamenco. This time a male singer and dancer along with woman. Back through park and home along river. So many people out playing on gorgeous Sunday. Some just sitting at river’s edge, others at bars, others walking, riding bikes, skating, on scooters, boats on river. Lovely. At home neighbors are wrapping up party. Eat pasta and salad dinner at home. Crash
Feb 17. Drink coffee. I go to market for class I signed up for earlier: a tour round the market, and then a cooking and eating class at Taller Andulusa de Cocina. Inez takes 8 of us (fam from Atlanta, bro & sis from Phil and NY, solo guy from Zurich) around market, tells about cheese, ham, saffron, paprika, some veggies and fruits now in season. No fish today because fish guys are closed on Mondays. Then we go back to their nice studio in market where chef Dom, doing most of work, and rest of us prep. We make salmorejo, spinach with chick peas, chicken paella. Drink sangria, wine, and beer. Delicious dessert/drink - even I can make: Lemon (or other citrus) sorbet, mint, and Brut Cava- blended in blender. Quite delicious. This was a wonderful experience. Lots of cooking classes around, but I chose this one based on rec from Fodor’s very helpful Maribel- so thanks Maribel! Mr G gets some time to himself and walks over to park/plaza. Later we walk out to for another tapas dinner at Las Golondrinas.
Feb 18. Drink coffee. Go to Bellas Artes Museum and the Hospital de Los Venerables. It’s rather expensive in comparison to other sites with less to see, especially since contemporary art exhibit there is closed. But the usual nice courtyards, lots of nice tile, paintings. Used audio guides this time and spent quite some time learning about Pacheco, Murillo, Velasquez. On to Bellas Artes. Beautiful building outside and in. Lots and lots of religious art. Impressive sculpture, esp wood of ??.? Sculptor name. Then went on to Bar Eslava at about 5:30. Yay, no one there! Scored nice table inside. Great food indeed! and really liked their Verdejo - Finca de Vertel. We had 7 tapas and 3 drinks each for $35! Great slow cooked egg on boletus cake (spongy mushroom), a cuttlefish/algae cigar,
And others. All were wonderful. A great place! Have fun conversation with Irish couple at next table. Then another fun conversation with Afrikaners now living in Switzerland on way out. Walk home.
Feb 19. Get out earlier than usual, walk to bus station and take 170 bus to Italica, old Roman ruins outside Seville. Very extensive with many wonderful mosaic floors, mostly intact. So glad we made the effort to get out and see these. Spend about 3 hours there, bus back to town. Starving, we stop at Bodeguita Romero to try their pringas and some other tapas before they close at 5. Get nice seat at bar. Potato and prawn salad, 3 pringas, shrimp Fritter, fried eggplant sticks with honey, 1 small and 1 large beer,1 glass white wine. About 20eu. All were delicious. Thanks again Eks - another great rec. Walk home and hang out there rest of eve.
Feb 20. Mr. G goes to grocery store, I go ceramic shopping, and Flamenco dress looking (for granddaughter) in Triana. Buy a ceramic egg plate as gift. Walk across bridge with idea of scoring very late lunch at Azotea Santa Cruz. Hardly anyone there. Small menu, sit at table outside. Have very good salmorejo, grilled veggies covered with cheese ?? and an egg, and simple cooked and filleted whole fish. All good but neither of us were knocked out by food or service. Pop into and out of stores on way back to Triana. Mr G is happy to buy me selected interesting necklace at Johari Contemporaneo store as Bday present. A great little store with very interesting and inexpensive designer jewelry ALSO on the Eks Seville etc list. Have nice chat with the very helpful employee there who turns out to be originally from Salvador, Brazil, where we visited last year.
Hang out awhile at apt and then go to another Flamenco show virtually next door at Theatre Flamenco Triana. Great deal. $15 for each of us seniors. Nice little theater a couple doors down. Male and female dancer, singer and guitarist. All excellent!
Feb 21. Lazed around. Went down street to tour shop and bought Flamenco dress and accessories for granddaughter. Walked over bridge to Maestdanza studio and took 1 1/2 hour Flamenco lesson. Fun. Young Austrian couple and me. Mr G came by when we were done and we went for very another early dinner at Eslava. This time we enjoy sitting at the bar. 6 tapas, 2 drinks each, and expensive desserts for $50. Fabulous manchego cheese ice cream. Definitely a highlight! Repeated artichoke with fried garlic, and shaved cod tapa, also ribs with honey. And fried anchovies, asparagus, pork with blue cheese sauce, and another, beet tataki.
All delish. My dessert was roasted pineapple carpaccio with ginger and coconut ice cream. Good, but couldn’t match that manchego ice cream. Go back to Triana for another next door Flamenco. Smaller crowd this time. We sit in front row. This performance, more serious, stylized. Male singer has better voice and takes up more space and stage time. Young female dancer. Both man and woman are good. Man perhaps a little more posey than I might like. But all in all great entertainment especially for 15 E each!
Feb 22. Lazed around. I went for one last schmooze in market and ceramics stores.
Bought smoked paprika and saffron, and small amt of cheese, salami, and bread for later snack. Long walk over to casa de las Duenas. Another Royal House. Beautiful gardens and insides. “One of finest examples of nobilaria.” Some flowers in bloom - clivia, lantana, orange blossoms just starting, some bougainvillea, hibiscus, almond trees (looking like our cherry blossoms). Wandered through tiny streets back home. Cocktails on roof. Later go out to the friendly and delicious Puratasca, such a nice little place. This time we share candied artichokes, fideos with seafood, somerejo with almonds and strawberries. All good. Glass of cava from our favorite server Angelica in honor of my bday and last day in Seville tomorrow. Say goodbye.
Feb 23. My 70th bday. Omg. Laze around. Mr G makes French toast for breakfast. Awake to sounds of Seville marathon start. Watch on line through first male and female finishers. Africans., natch. Go out about 12:30. Go to finish line near Maria Luisa Park. Watch some stragglers come in At 4 hours. Last tour of Plaza de Espana. Watch some more free Flamenco. Go to Petit Comite and have fab bday lunch. Really nice little restaurant. Full. Great service by 3 or 4 servers p, including 2 charming guys. Help with menu. Have potato and prawn salad, salmon carpaccio with rocket salad, and tuna Rosa with balsamic balls (??!!!!) on caramelized onions. All was wonderful. Then fried coconut milk with cinnamon ice cream. Like a congealed coconut milk thing with candle , flan like consistency. 3 drinks each. $65 or so....Then free cava from server for bday. Staggered home. Looked longingly crossing bridge for last time — at Triana, at river, at boats on river (new electric stand up boards this time!), at sun and blue sky. ☹️ What a delightful city!
Next up: Toledo
Mar 1st, 2020, 10:31 AM
#74
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2 nights in Toledo. To get to Toledo from Seville we had to take the train to Madrid and then connect to Toledo from there. No direct trains from Seville to Toledo. No big deal, as Spanish trains (renfre) have been just great throughout our time here. On time, well marked, comfortable, fast. The Renfre Website is sometimes difficult, but other than that RENFRE has been great. Impressive in fact.
When we arrive at Toledo’s lovely station, we look for taxis, but find none. So decide to walk since we can see that our hotel is close. Close, yes, but alas up hill.! Not fun. It’s one thing to walk up a big hill unencumbered in a beautiful old historic town, but quite another to drag your wheeled carryon behind you with shoulder bag containing bottle of wine and a bit of pottery! Then google maps takes us to wrong side of our large hotel Hacienda del Cardenal, directly to the tightly closed door of the hotel’s restaurant. Finally walk around building and find entry in wall to hacienda courtyard, where landscaping work is in progress. Worker waves us in direction of reception, which turns out to be up two flights of concrete steps. Mr G lugs first his luggage and then mine up both sets of stairs. Apologetic receptionist finally sees us and runs out to offer tardy help. Helpfully? waving at unmarked elevator at lower level. Oh well.
The hotel Is several old 18th century buildings built into city wall. Very well appointed everywhere with tasteful period furniture and art. We Relax briefly in room. Later walk in search of nearby pizza place “Comes” , a walk that provides us with nighttime view of Toledo’s lovely narrow hilly streets and plazas. Good pizza and salad. Do a little more walking around on way back to hotel. Toledo is just charming and different enough to ease the pain of having to leave beloved Seville.
Next day we had decent included breakfast in hotel’s lovely basement room. The usual Spanish continental breakfast buffet of breads, pastries, cheese, ham, fruit, dried cereal and coffee. Then walk out to see the Toledo sites and enjoy town. We visit the Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, a mosque built in 999 then turned into a church in the 1100s by Christian conquerors. Some nice Moorish architecture and great views out over town from the terrace. Spent some time walking around in the Catedral Primada, construction of which began in 1227 and was completed in 1493. Decide to skip Toledo’s mostly rebuilt Alcazar that houses Spanish military history.
It is such a beautiful day we decide instead to take long walk to Mirador del Valle. That walk takes us across the old Roman San Martin bridge and then way up along the road above the other side of the Tagus River to high pint with great views back across river to the old city. The walk is essentially a long loop. We see many locals who obviously use the mirador walk as a workout. Nice views along the way, pink almond trees have started to bloom. We pass gates to many cigarrales. (Had to look that one up!), which were apparently second country homes with land for gentry, many of which have now been converted to hotels.
Back to our side of the river and the end of our loop walk, we are famished. So we stop in hotel bar for drink/snack. Wait 20 minutes while sole server delivers more and more drinks and coffees to large group of lingering businessmen. Finally get our drinks and only minor free tapas. Kitchen is closed. Would that we had known. Pretty bar and kitchen area though. I take picture of 4 roasted pigs sitting in kitchen. Probably should have tried the hotel’s restaurant which specializes in roasted pork and lamb. But reviews were very mixed, so instead we take Toledo’s 6 stage escalator very near our hotel way up the hill to restaurant Embrujo. Phone map had difficulty again getting us to this little spot. But that provided an opportunity for conversation with 2 locals, one very loquacious. Embrujo turned out to be our favorite kind of place. Small, cozy, filling up with locals later. And great food simply cooked and presented. We have excellent grilled asparagus and grilled venison, potatoes bravas, and carrot cake. Great vibe in this little pub like place. Fast and easy going friendly service, lots of folks standing at bar, and all of the few tables full. Walk a little after dinner and then home.
After buffet breakfast next day we go to Santa Maria La Blanca (Synagogue of Saint Mary the White), a small but pretty space, a 12th century synagogue, converted into a church in 15th century. Then we go on to the Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes, which is quite a lot larger and more impressive than we expected. Then return to hotel and have manchego cheese board lunch and water in outside bar area. Taxi to train station....
I will say that we were in Toledo Monday to Wednesday, and there were plenty of tourists (even without Chinese groups) and even in February. Since we lucked out with such good weather on this trip, I’m really glad we made the decision to come to Spain outside of main tourist season.
and now on to Segovia and Madrid!
When we arrive at Toledo’s lovely station, we look for taxis, but find none. So decide to walk since we can see that our hotel is close. Close, yes, but alas up hill.! Not fun. It’s one thing to walk up a big hill unencumbered in a beautiful old historic town, but quite another to drag your wheeled carryon behind you with shoulder bag containing bottle of wine and a bit of pottery! Then google maps takes us to wrong side of our large hotel Hacienda del Cardenal, directly to the tightly closed door of the hotel’s restaurant. Finally walk around building and find entry in wall to hacienda courtyard, where landscaping work is in progress. Worker waves us in direction of reception, which turns out to be up two flights of concrete steps. Mr G lugs first his luggage and then mine up both sets of stairs. Apologetic receptionist finally sees us and runs out to offer tardy help. Helpfully? waving at unmarked elevator at lower level. Oh well.
The hotel Is several old 18th century buildings built into city wall. Very well appointed everywhere with tasteful period furniture and art. We Relax briefly in room. Later walk in search of nearby pizza place “Comes” , a walk that provides us with nighttime view of Toledo’s lovely narrow hilly streets and plazas. Good pizza and salad. Do a little more walking around on way back to hotel. Toledo is just charming and different enough to ease the pain of having to leave beloved Seville.
Next day we had decent included breakfast in hotel’s lovely basement room. The usual Spanish continental breakfast buffet of breads, pastries, cheese, ham, fruit, dried cereal and coffee. Then walk out to see the Toledo sites and enjoy town. We visit the Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, a mosque built in 999 then turned into a church in the 1100s by Christian conquerors. Some nice Moorish architecture and great views out over town from the terrace. Spent some time walking around in the Catedral Primada, construction of which began in 1227 and was completed in 1493. Decide to skip Toledo’s mostly rebuilt Alcazar that houses Spanish military history.
It is such a beautiful day we decide instead to take long walk to Mirador del Valle. That walk takes us across the old Roman San Martin bridge and then way up along the road above the other side of the Tagus River to high pint with great views back across river to the old city. The walk is essentially a long loop. We see many locals who obviously use the mirador walk as a workout. Nice views along the way, pink almond trees have started to bloom. We pass gates to many cigarrales. (Had to look that one up!), which were apparently second country homes with land for gentry, many of which have now been converted to hotels.
Back to our side of the river and the end of our loop walk, we are famished. So we stop in hotel bar for drink/snack. Wait 20 minutes while sole server delivers more and more drinks and coffees to large group of lingering businessmen. Finally get our drinks and only minor free tapas. Kitchen is closed. Would that we had known. Pretty bar and kitchen area though. I take picture of 4 roasted pigs sitting in kitchen. Probably should have tried the hotel’s restaurant which specializes in roasted pork and lamb. But reviews were very mixed, so instead we take Toledo’s 6 stage escalator very near our hotel way up the hill to restaurant Embrujo. Phone map had difficulty again getting us to this little spot. But that provided an opportunity for conversation with 2 locals, one very loquacious. Embrujo turned out to be our favorite kind of place. Small, cozy, filling up with locals later. And great food simply cooked and presented. We have excellent grilled asparagus and grilled venison, potatoes bravas, and carrot cake. Great vibe in this little pub like place. Fast and easy going friendly service, lots of folks standing at bar, and all of the few tables full. Walk a little after dinner and then home.
After buffet breakfast next day we go to Santa Maria La Blanca (Synagogue of Saint Mary the White), a small but pretty space, a 12th century synagogue, converted into a church in 15th century. Then we go on to the Monastery of San Juan de Los Reyes, which is quite a lot larger and more impressive than we expected. Then return to hotel and have manchego cheese board lunch and water in outside bar area. Taxi to train station....
I will say that we were in Toledo Monday to Wednesday, and there were plenty of tourists (even without Chinese groups) and even in February. Since we lucked out with such good weather on this trip, I’m really glad we made the decision to come to Spain outside of main tourist season.
and now on to Segovia and Madrid!
Mar 2nd, 2020, 09:25 AM
#77
Glad you enjoyed Toledo, and funny that we had the same experiences with the taxi at the station. Unfortunately [or should I say fortunately?] my hotel, the Hotel San Juan de los Reyes Catolicos, was too far for me to walk, particularly with the rather too large suitcase I had brought on my trip, so I had to wait for a taxi to my hotel and on seeing how far I was was heartily glad I'd done so. My check-in wasn't simple either - I was told that my room was on the third floor but the lift stopped at the second - and it was only after I'd gone in hunt of a member of staff that I discovered that there was one lift that went to the third floor and another that didn't. Nice of the receptionist to tell me that!. However my room was comfy enough and the meal I had in the hotel that night was exceptional. And the day I spent there was great from the two synagogues to the cathedral and the monastery. A most delightful place.
Jun 24th, 2020, 06:17 PM
#78
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, any chance we can read about your time in Segovia and Madrid? Here’s hoping you are still interested in keeping us up to date on your travels, especially since we are probably all suffering from travel withdrawal right now. Not to mention with the thought of new travel restrictions from Europe. Three weeks in Seville would be a dream! Although we loved our time In Madrid, it did not compare to Segovia. Did you find it the same?
Patiently waiting,
-Annie
Patiently waiting,
-Annie
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KBoen
Mexico & Central America
4
Jul 13th, 2012 11:50 AM
glover
Mexico & Central America
5
Feb 4th, 2009 04:52 AM
AandED
Mexico & Central America
3
Jun 13th, 2007 02:33 PM
