Glover’s winter trip to Europe
Jan 18th, 2020 | 02:18 AM
#22
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,037
Likes: 0
Enjoying this report very much. Glad you enjoyed your dinner at Pramil. For my money it's surely one of Paris' best modern restaurants. Food and service always delightful and price is unbeatable for what it is. It's at the top of the list for our next trip there.
Jan 18th, 2020 | 05:08 AM
#23
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,035
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“ I still remember fondly seeing so many of those paintings in the Jeu de Paume museum years ago (30!) before they were moved to D’Orsay.”
Me too. Was there in January, not another soul in the place, stood close to each painting as the cool natural light streamed in from all around. A blessing.
Me too. Was there in January, not another soul in the place, stood close to each painting as the cool natural light streamed in from all around. A blessing.
Jan 18th, 2020 | 09:44 AM
#24
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,942
Likes: 0
“ I still remember fondly seeing so many of those paintings in the Jeu de Paume museum years ago (30!) before they were moved to D’Orsay.”
Me too. Was there in January, not another soul in the place, stood close to each painting as the cool natural light streamed in from all around. A blessing.
Me too. Was there in January, not another soul in the place, stood close to each painting as the cool natural light streamed in from all around. A blessing.
Jan 20th, 2020 | 03:13 AM
#30
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
<<Arriving just after Las Falles - I didn't know about this celebration before!>>
That's a shame - I went last year and it was amazing. However hotel prices are crazy unless you book a long time in advance and the city was very crowded. But I'm sure you will enjoy being there - it's a lovely city.
That's a shame - I went last year and it was amazing. However hotel prices are crazy unless you book a long time in advance and the city was very crowded. But I'm sure you will enjoy being there - it's a lovely city.
Jan 20th, 2020 | 10:41 AM
#31
Original Poster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 0
Barcelona!
After a long and pretty relaxing train ride, we arrive at Sants train station in Barcelona on time. Find taxi line and are soon at our quirky hotel - Room Mate Carla in Exiample area of city. The hotel chain has taken space in a big old building on Mallorca and rehabbed inside to a strangely lit modern lodging. Everything in lobby area is black except for occasional odd colored and shaped chair or table. Hallways too are black with only very large room numbers illuminated. On the other hand, the rather spacious room is all white with only a large red geographic on the ceiling and one wall. More closet and storage space than any hotel room I’ve ever seen, an entire wall of closet, shelf, drawer, and cubbyhole space.
I’d been watching ticket sales for a guitar orchestra concert that eve at the very ornate Palau Música. Buy some on line, get organized, and go out to walk the 20 minutes or so from our hotel to the Palau. Starving by now, we collect a hodgepodge of items from the Palau’s nice cafe. The theater, built in the early 1900s, is stunning. The orchestra was composed of about 20 guitars with one directing. They played baroque and Spanish music, occasionally accompanied by a woman on harpsichord. Guests performers on our eve were a violinist, a tango dance couple, and a mezzo soprano. Quite interesting to hear that many guitars
And really great to see the theater. Walk back to hotel and collapse.
Mr. G steps out on our tiny balcony next am and is delighted to see 2 things: 1. Sun,
And 2. Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in the distance. We had forgotten we would have that nice view and we’d nearly forgotten “sun.” We bypass the hotel breakfast buffet and walk down the street to the popular “Billy Brunch.” Spend quite some time there enjoying delicious omelette, coffee, and great bacon. We loved this really cute place with great food that serves breakfast all day. Employees were all efficient and friendly, young people from all around the world. Our server was from Uruguay, getting some kind of masters degree in Spain.
It’s a pretty great day for walking- sunny and bright with temps 40-50. So we make most of it by covering a lot of ground. In search of a restroom, we stumbled into the photography museum in Las Ramblas in La Palau de la Virreina. We ended up staying for probably an hour in the way these things go. One large interesting exhibit was the work of Daniela Ortiz titled “This Land Will Never Be Fertile for Having Given Birth to Colonisers.” Photos, video, and objects showing the negative effects of colonization. Angry and interesting. Continue walking down the touristy La Rambla. Wander through the huge open Boqueria market. Lots of people out on a Thursday afternoon in January. Can only imagine crowd in season. Some rather elaborate costumed live statues catch our attention from time to time. Wander down to and around the Pier Vell area, admire the beautiful arched walkway created there, and 2 enormous 300-400 foot yachts moored nearby . We note their names for later googling. Both owned by Russian oligarchs. Wending our way slowly back home, we come upon the former market in El Born, where they have excavated ruins of the old city and now created a cultural center.of the old city . Look at some the exhibits there just as they are closing for the day.
After a little rest at the hotel, we go out for decent pizza at Don Kilo nearby. Then out of curiosity stop in a bar we pass called “Wall Street.” Cozy pub atmosphere with stock market decor, funny. Up to the minute digital ticker tape tracks various drinks consumed. Happy to say the drink called “Trump”. Was performing rather poorly. That display was pointed out to us by a small group of American guys standing near us at the bar. QNaturally (!?) they turned out to be students from Indiana University (Mr Gs Alma mater), which of course occasioned a great deal of conversation about beloved college bars and sports teams. I marvel at how many people mr g meets around the world who are from, of all places, Indiana.
Barcelona day 2 again dawns sunny and bright. We have 11:30 advance tix for Sagrada Familia and its Passion Tower. Have rather leisurely breakfast first at another cute place down from our hotel “Hammocks.” It has a smaller menu than Billy’s, with a healthier focus. We have good avocado toast with egg, apple pie French toast, and a delicious smoothie, then walk on to the Sagrada.
We both thought the Sagrada fantastic! Felt really fortunate to be there on nice bright day with light streaming through windows and coloring Columns, sculpture, angles, etc. took tons of pictures of course. Kind of made up for our gray day at Saint Chapelle in Paris. Ascended the Passion tower by elevator and then walked the hundreds of steps back down.
Since we want to enjoy the sunny mildish day, we decide to walk (up!) to Gaudi’s Park Guell - quite a walk. Definitely worthwhile, even without entering the ticketed area, which we didn’t do. It’s a beautiful park, even in winter, with amazing views of the city on a clear day, as well as some of the Gaudí pieces.
Walked all the way back to the hotel and collapsed for a longish rest. At 8 we walked a block or so to a well reviewed cozy looking tapas restaurant, La Sopa Boba. Ordered a collection of tapas, wine, and beer. Nice atmosphere there, trendy seeming, tapas good, but not great. Could have been our selection. Assorted croquettes all had same mushy taste/consistency inside. No distinct flavors. Sirloin with mustard sauce was good, as were potatoes bravas, cod was stringy.
Day 3 brings us more sunshine! Have another nice breakfast at Hammocks. This time peanut butter pancakes, salmon bagel with scrambled eggs, and another great
Smoothie.
On our way to tour the Old Santa Maria Church, we stumble upon the Saturday Concepcio Municipal market. Really enjoy walking around there and looking at everything on display. Lots of fish vendors. Smaller and less crowded than The Boqueria, easier to see things, take some pix. We arrive at Santa Maria church just in time for a 45 minute bilingual tour. Guide was quite good, and we learned a lot about the construction and architecture of this church, construction of which began in 1320s. Got some more nice views of the city from roof.
Wandered in and out of a few stores in El Born area. Bought some inexpensive arty jewelry. Had planned to go to the Picasso museum, but decide that the sunny day warrants a look at the beach instead. So we walk over to La Barceloneta. Lots of people out walking, running, rollerblading, Segwaying, scootering, skateboarding on the wide promenade in front of the beach. We walk out on pier to get as far out into Mediterranean as possible. Are intrigued by the outdoor workout area and spend some time watching the gymnastic feats of a pretty accomplished, quite ripped middle aged guy, who appeared to be coaching some of the others there. Also enjoyed seeing all the people sprawled on the concrete chaise lounges either contemplating the sea or their personal devices. Sat down on promenade bench and did some serious people watching. Walked all way back to hotel for daily rest before dinner.
Had passed and tried to reserve a spot at touted Tapas place called Teoric. Alas they were booked, so decided to go to another nearby that was billed as plain and friendly and family run with great food - Xapato. Indeed it was all of those. We had our now usual 5 tapas, including octopus, pork, potatoes, and others now gone from memory. Owner Paco is always present, taking orders, explaining food, back and forth from tables to kitchen, also his wife, probably a daughter and one other employee we saw. In between delivery of a few items, Paco brings first some gratis ham pieces, later some cheese. As we paid our 40 E something bill (5 tapas, 2 cupas, and 2 beers) Paco brought us each ANOTHER free drink. On the way out Mr G chatted up 2 guys who had been seated few tables away who turned out to be from- you guessed it- Indiana.
Forecast was for rain on our last Barcelona day, so we planned for a little indoor activity. Rain never happened, though it did get quite windy and cooler. We researched a visit to Gaudi’s Casa Mila nearby, but discovered it was closed for several weeks for maintenance. So decided to visit another of Gaudi’s apartments instead, Casa Batllo. But first a last breakfast at Billy Brunch. The place was rocking when we arrived in latish am. We waited very briefly and then were seated at bar, in front of an adorable employee serving as the barista that day. We are naturally the oldest people in the joint by some 40 years. Mr G admires the chocolate cake on display on the bar, and the adorable Pedro barista immediately cuts us a free slice, which we shared after I ate my fabulous orange pancakes with fruit, whipped cream, and a little ice cream! And Mr G his omelette and delicious bacon. Such a great vibe here. Really nice young international servers constantly on the move getting it all done and looking like they’re enjoying themselves and others. Big line waiting outside (and some eating outside) when we left .. and no wonder!
Walked on to Casa Batllo, getting a look at outside at least of Casa Mila on the way. Kill a little time, before our 12:30 timed entry, walking up and down the wide and elegant Grŕcia Street, which we hadn’t seen earlier - as always just admiring the beautiful architecture that is Barcelona. Batllo looked like a zoo when we arrived, lots of people, but the timed tickets and easy audio guides made it doable without much hassle. Really fun to see this apartment. Came across NY times article just before we went about one of 2 only remaining long time renters at Casa Mila and what it’s like for her to live in a building full of gawkers. Don’t know that any renters remain at Casa Batllo.
Walked to Le Born area for Picasso Museum. Line for buying tickets looks doable so we wait for maybe 15 minutes or so to buy timed entry tix for 45 minutes later. Decide to return to small jewelry store visited earlier for perhaps another piece. Alas she is closed today. Console self by buying a couple things at the equally interesting open shop next door. Enjoy Picasso visit. Sit for awhile and try to parse Catalan commentary of film on history of Guernica. Only partially successful. Neither of us was very familiar with Picasso, other than most famous works, so enjoyed seeing work from early periods and reading details of his life.
By now beat, we hail our first taxi back to the hotel and collapse for rest. Do some quick restaurant research for somewhere open on Sunday and walkable. Decide on Cerveceria Catalan. Get there and it is rocking. Decide to wait what hostess predicts will be 20 mins or so (no reservations taken here). Well worth the wait. This was our best meal in Barcelona. Amazing meal of 5 tapas, dessert, 2 wines and 2 beers - For about $63 us. Looking to add some green veggies to our diet, and being lovers of Romesco Sauce, we ordered grilled leeks with romesco, not even knowing that there is a whole festival for these locally grown calcots” during Catalan winters. Our very kind and efficient server made a great show of how to eat them Catalan style (ie start at one end, strip the leek/onion of its outer tougher covering, hold it high and, after dipping in romescu, eat the more tender heart. Needless to say, this occasioned interest and appreciation of Spaniards at neighboring tables. Expected the gregarious old guy at the next table to leap up and wave the Catalan flag. Lots of fun. Everything we had here was delicious and servers were hustling and anticipating. In addition to the calcots, we had octopus, tiny shelled super tender green beans with strips of ham and pieces of shrimp, a tenderloin sandwich, potatoes, And a crema Catalan dessert. A wonderful last night dinner in Barcelona!
And so, on to Valencia.
After a long and pretty relaxing train ride, we arrive at Sants train station in Barcelona on time. Find taxi line and are soon at our quirky hotel - Room Mate Carla in Exiample area of city. The hotel chain has taken space in a big old building on Mallorca and rehabbed inside to a strangely lit modern lodging. Everything in lobby area is black except for occasional odd colored and shaped chair or table. Hallways too are black with only very large room numbers illuminated. On the other hand, the rather spacious room is all white with only a large red geographic on the ceiling and one wall. More closet and storage space than any hotel room I’ve ever seen, an entire wall of closet, shelf, drawer, and cubbyhole space.
I’d been watching ticket sales for a guitar orchestra concert that eve at the very ornate Palau Música. Buy some on line, get organized, and go out to walk the 20 minutes or so from our hotel to the Palau. Starving by now, we collect a hodgepodge of items from the Palau’s nice cafe. The theater, built in the early 1900s, is stunning. The orchestra was composed of about 20 guitars with one directing. They played baroque and Spanish music, occasionally accompanied by a woman on harpsichord. Guests performers on our eve were a violinist, a tango dance couple, and a mezzo soprano. Quite interesting to hear that many guitars
And really great to see the theater. Walk back to hotel and collapse.
Mr. G steps out on our tiny balcony next am and is delighted to see 2 things: 1. Sun,
And 2. Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in the distance. We had forgotten we would have that nice view and we’d nearly forgotten “sun.” We bypass the hotel breakfast buffet and walk down the street to the popular “Billy Brunch.” Spend quite some time there enjoying delicious omelette, coffee, and great bacon. We loved this really cute place with great food that serves breakfast all day. Employees were all efficient and friendly, young people from all around the world. Our server was from Uruguay, getting some kind of masters degree in Spain.
It’s a pretty great day for walking- sunny and bright with temps 40-50. So we make most of it by covering a lot of ground. In search of a restroom, we stumbled into the photography museum in Las Ramblas in La Palau de la Virreina. We ended up staying for probably an hour in the way these things go. One large interesting exhibit was the work of Daniela Ortiz titled “This Land Will Never Be Fertile for Having Given Birth to Colonisers.” Photos, video, and objects showing the negative effects of colonization. Angry and interesting. Continue walking down the touristy La Rambla. Wander through the huge open Boqueria market. Lots of people out on a Thursday afternoon in January. Can only imagine crowd in season. Some rather elaborate costumed live statues catch our attention from time to time. Wander down to and around the Pier Vell area, admire the beautiful arched walkway created there, and 2 enormous 300-400 foot yachts moored nearby . We note their names for later googling. Both owned by Russian oligarchs. Wending our way slowly back home, we come upon the former market in El Born, where they have excavated ruins of the old city and now created a cultural center.of the old city . Look at some the exhibits there just as they are closing for the day.
After a little rest at the hotel, we go out for decent pizza at Don Kilo nearby. Then out of curiosity stop in a bar we pass called “Wall Street.” Cozy pub atmosphere with stock market decor, funny. Up to the minute digital ticker tape tracks various drinks consumed. Happy to say the drink called “Trump”. Was performing rather poorly. That display was pointed out to us by a small group of American guys standing near us at the bar. QNaturally (!?) they turned out to be students from Indiana University (Mr Gs Alma mater), which of course occasioned a great deal of conversation about beloved college bars and sports teams. I marvel at how many people mr g meets around the world who are from, of all places, Indiana.
Barcelona day 2 again dawns sunny and bright. We have 11:30 advance tix for Sagrada Familia and its Passion Tower. Have rather leisurely breakfast first at another cute place down from our hotel “Hammocks.” It has a smaller menu than Billy’s, with a healthier focus. We have good avocado toast with egg, apple pie French toast, and a delicious smoothie, then walk on to the Sagrada.
We both thought the Sagrada fantastic! Felt really fortunate to be there on nice bright day with light streaming through windows and coloring Columns, sculpture, angles, etc. took tons of pictures of course. Kind of made up for our gray day at Saint Chapelle in Paris. Ascended the Passion tower by elevator and then walked the hundreds of steps back down.
Since we want to enjoy the sunny mildish day, we decide to walk (up!) to Gaudi’s Park Guell - quite a walk. Definitely worthwhile, even without entering the ticketed area, which we didn’t do. It’s a beautiful park, even in winter, with amazing views of the city on a clear day, as well as some of the Gaudí pieces.
Walked all the way back to the hotel and collapsed for a longish rest. At 8 we walked a block or so to a well reviewed cozy looking tapas restaurant, La Sopa Boba. Ordered a collection of tapas, wine, and beer. Nice atmosphere there, trendy seeming, tapas good, but not great. Could have been our selection. Assorted croquettes all had same mushy taste/consistency inside. No distinct flavors. Sirloin with mustard sauce was good, as were potatoes bravas, cod was stringy.
Day 3 brings us more sunshine! Have another nice breakfast at Hammocks. This time peanut butter pancakes, salmon bagel with scrambled eggs, and another great
Smoothie.
On our way to tour the Old Santa Maria Church, we stumble upon the Saturday Concepcio Municipal market. Really enjoy walking around there and looking at everything on display. Lots of fish vendors. Smaller and less crowded than The Boqueria, easier to see things, take some pix. We arrive at Santa Maria church just in time for a 45 minute bilingual tour. Guide was quite good, and we learned a lot about the construction and architecture of this church, construction of which began in 1320s. Got some more nice views of the city from roof.
Wandered in and out of a few stores in El Born area. Bought some inexpensive arty jewelry. Had planned to go to the Picasso museum, but decide that the sunny day warrants a look at the beach instead. So we walk over to La Barceloneta. Lots of people out walking, running, rollerblading, Segwaying, scootering, skateboarding on the wide promenade in front of the beach. We walk out on pier to get as far out into Mediterranean as possible. Are intrigued by the outdoor workout area and spend some time watching the gymnastic feats of a pretty accomplished, quite ripped middle aged guy, who appeared to be coaching some of the others there. Also enjoyed seeing all the people sprawled on the concrete chaise lounges either contemplating the sea or their personal devices. Sat down on promenade bench and did some serious people watching. Walked all way back to hotel for daily rest before dinner.
Had passed and tried to reserve a spot at touted Tapas place called Teoric. Alas they were booked, so decided to go to another nearby that was billed as plain and friendly and family run with great food - Xapato. Indeed it was all of those. We had our now usual 5 tapas, including octopus, pork, potatoes, and others now gone from memory. Owner Paco is always present, taking orders, explaining food, back and forth from tables to kitchen, also his wife, probably a daughter and one other employee we saw. In between delivery of a few items, Paco brings first some gratis ham pieces, later some cheese. As we paid our 40 E something bill (5 tapas, 2 cupas, and 2 beers) Paco brought us each ANOTHER free drink. On the way out Mr G chatted up 2 guys who had been seated few tables away who turned out to be from- you guessed it- Indiana.
Forecast was for rain on our last Barcelona day, so we planned for a little indoor activity. Rain never happened, though it did get quite windy and cooler. We researched a visit to Gaudi’s Casa Mila nearby, but discovered it was closed for several weeks for maintenance. So decided to visit another of Gaudi’s apartments instead, Casa Batllo. But first a last breakfast at Billy Brunch. The place was rocking when we arrived in latish am. We waited very briefly and then were seated at bar, in front of an adorable employee serving as the barista that day. We are naturally the oldest people in the joint by some 40 years. Mr G admires the chocolate cake on display on the bar, and the adorable Pedro barista immediately cuts us a free slice, which we shared after I ate my fabulous orange pancakes with fruit, whipped cream, and a little ice cream! And Mr G his omelette and delicious bacon. Such a great vibe here. Really nice young international servers constantly on the move getting it all done and looking like they’re enjoying themselves and others. Big line waiting outside (and some eating outside) when we left .. and no wonder!
Walked on to Casa Batllo, getting a look at outside at least of Casa Mila on the way. Kill a little time, before our 12:30 timed entry, walking up and down the wide and elegant Grŕcia Street, which we hadn’t seen earlier - as always just admiring the beautiful architecture that is Barcelona. Batllo looked like a zoo when we arrived, lots of people, but the timed tickets and easy audio guides made it doable without much hassle. Really fun to see this apartment. Came across NY times article just before we went about one of 2 only remaining long time renters at Casa Mila and what it’s like for her to live in a building full of gawkers. Don’t know that any renters remain at Casa Batllo.
Walked to Le Born area for Picasso Museum. Line for buying tickets looks doable so we wait for maybe 15 minutes or so to buy timed entry tix for 45 minutes later. Decide to return to small jewelry store visited earlier for perhaps another piece. Alas she is closed today. Console self by buying a couple things at the equally interesting open shop next door. Enjoy Picasso visit. Sit for awhile and try to parse Catalan commentary of film on history of Guernica. Only partially successful. Neither of us was very familiar with Picasso, other than most famous works, so enjoyed seeing work from early periods and reading details of his life.
By now beat, we hail our first taxi back to the hotel and collapse for rest. Do some quick restaurant research for somewhere open on Sunday and walkable. Decide on Cerveceria Catalan. Get there and it is rocking. Decide to wait what hostess predicts will be 20 mins or so (no reservations taken here). Well worth the wait. This was our best meal in Barcelona. Amazing meal of 5 tapas, dessert, 2 wines and 2 beers - For about $63 us. Looking to add some green veggies to our diet, and being lovers of Romesco Sauce, we ordered grilled leeks with romesco, not even knowing that there is a whole festival for these locally grown calcots” during Catalan winters. Our very kind and efficient server made a great show of how to eat them Catalan style (ie start at one end, strip the leek/onion of its outer tougher covering, hold it high and, after dipping in romescu, eat the more tender heart. Needless to say, this occasioned interest and appreciation of Spaniards at neighboring tables. Expected the gregarious old guy at the next table to leap up and wave the Catalan flag. Lots of fun. Everything we had here was delicious and servers were hustling and anticipating. In addition to the calcots, we had octopus, tiny shelled super tender green beans with strips of ham and pieces of shrimp, a tenderloin sandwich, potatoes, And a crema Catalan dessert. A wonderful last night dinner in Barcelona!
And so, on to Valencia.
Jan 22nd, 2020 | 04:15 AM
#34
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 11,730
Likes: 7
Isn't BCN just wonderful? So enjoying your usual great TR. i wish i had thought to give you some tips from our most recent trip there. We were there exact same time for a week and had weather in the 70’s and sun every day. Curious to see Valencia thru your eyes.
Jan 22nd, 2020 | 04:25 AM
#35
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 19,707
Likes: 0
You were very lucky with the weather and missed storm Gloria thank goodness.
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-51206054
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-51206054
Jan 22nd, 2020 | 01:48 PM
#38
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 570
Likes: 0
I'm so glad you had a wonderful experience at La Sagrada Familia. Isn't it just gorgeous with light streaming through the windows? Barcelona is my favorite city in the world and I'm super interested in Valencia, so I'm anxious to read about your experience there.
Jan 23rd, 2020 | 12:14 PM
#39
Original Poster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 0
Valencia. Next am take taxi to train station for more or less on time train Barcelona to Valencia. Amuse self by creating Barcelona report and occasional look out window. When train is very close to coast , we can see that sea looks very rough, assume due to Gloria storm. Enjoy looking at crop fields. At one point there are Fields and fields of artichokes. As we get closer to Valencia, orange groves start to show up.
Since our Air bnb apt is just 10 minute walk from train station in the Valencia old town neighborhood, we have decided we’ll just walk. Unfortunately weather is suddenly very gusty with spitting rain, but sun. Then suddenly there’s a rainbow! Down a narrow quiet street near the big central market, we ring the bell at #14 as instructed. Owner German comes down to let us in and help carry bags up yet another narrow winding staircase. Ushers us in to our cozy little apt. The very old bldg (16th century) has been given a boring plaster facade on the street, so the interior rehab job has exposed some of the old walls in places for effect. It’s a 2 story apt with living room and one tiny bedroom downstairs and then up some steps to bigger bedroom, bath and kitchen. Lots of old exposed beams. Charming. And more electrical outlets and lights than we’ve ever seen, especially in such an old bldg. There’s a tiny balcony with the standard 2 chairs and table. German and a friend hang around for awhile working to program a new remote for the ac/heater. They also give us lay of land.
The weather has continued to deteriorate, so we run out to Carrerfour grocery a couple blocks away and procure the usual breakfast stuff, wine/beer, and ham and cheese. Stop at bakery for bread. Hunker down for rest of eve and listen to rain.
Take advantage of down time and do load of laundry in machine in bathroom. Catch up with life and research. Crash. Sleep well in dark cave like bedroom.
Wake up the next day to more thunder and lightning. Hard rain from time to time diminishes our enthusiasm for venturing out. So we call it a rest day, feeling quite cozy in our little apt. I do some research on paella, since it is one of things Valencia Is known for. Decide we should try for a paella lunch next day at the nearby and we’ll known Restaurante Navarro, open only in the afternoon 1-4. Make rez for 3:30 and commit to 2 orders of traditional Valencian paella - with chicken, rabbit, and snails - which must be ordered a day in advance. (I don’t know why, maybe takes awhile to catch those rabbits and beat the rosemary bushes for the little land snails?).
Run out with umbrellas in late afternoon just across street to Pinza Re pizza that we’d read good things about. Gregarious young woman from Sicily details the 10 or so kinds of small pizzas available. We settle on three. She admonishes us not to microwave for more than a minute as they will be ruined. Turns out all her pizzas have gluten free crusts (she mentions soy and rice flour). Even reheated they were excellent- our first gluten free pizza crusts! Another nice sleep in our cave.
More thunder and lightning next early am, followed by some improvement. We make some French toast with left over bread and few remaining eggs. Though first spend some time trying to wig out operation of cooktop, which doesn’t seem to stay powered on. Texting the owner we discover that this induction stovetop requires placing pan on it for continued operation. Who knew.
After breakfast, we are finally ready to take on some Valencia. First stop is to be the nearby central market (renowned chef, restauranteur, and Nobel Peace prize nominee Jose Andres visited the market in November and called it one of the most beautiful markets in all of Spain). Alas, we find it is shut tight. No idea why, as it is supposedly only closed on Sunday. (Found out later that Jan 22 is some kind of holiday in Valencia.) We are disappointed of course, but now have time freed up to do some other things.
So we take more time visiting the old silk (mercantile) exchange building (La Longa de la Seda) and the Parroquia de San Nicholas, this time taking time to follow along with audio guides. La Longa is a beautiful old bldg (circa late 15th century) mostly entirely empty now and occasionally used for events). Many interesting features, including a wall courtyard with orange trees, ornate carved stone and wood work. The parraquia is also interesting to see- Gothic on outside, but elaborately Baroque on the inside. Mr G expresses an interest in seeing the old river bed that is now Turia Park that stretches 9 km through the city. The river was diverted from here in the 60s to reduce flooding risk to the city. We follow map to the park and then on to one of the remaining beautiful old gates to the city, built in 1392, tall and grand.
Sky has turned black now and looks very threatening. But we still have some precious last day in Valencia time before our 3:30 lunch, so we hail a cab and go to the very modern City of Arts and Sciences, another Valencia landmark - if only just to see the interesting futuristic buildings. Fantastic! Walk all around the Opera House, Hemispheric, covered garden, pools, and ante room of the science museum. Sorry we didn’t have more time to do it all justice. We understood from the cabdriver that a nighttime visit with lights would possibly have been even better.
Hail another taxi back to Restaurante Navarro. The restaurant is still full, but we are seated immediately on first floor near front windows. Super charming friendly hostess is probably granddaughter of original owners. They have been in biz since 1950s. We remind her of our pre ordered Paella Valenciana. And she reminds us that it will still take 20 to 30 mins to cook. We order drinks and a starter of grilled vegetables. Regret not trying their sangria, which I like if it’s really good sangria and not overly sweet. But end up just with some red wine.
Beautifully displayed starter of grilled veggies arrives at leisurely pace. Very thinly sliced eggplant, peppers, squash, onions, tomato. Also great bread and delicious garlic aioli. Our paella arrives pretty much on schedule, and we dig in quickly, anxious to retry rabbit after long hiatus and see what exactly these snails are. Turns out they are still in their very small (no more than 1/2 inch in diameter) striped shells. Later I read that some cooks substitute fresh rosemary for the snails if unavailable. Why? Because these snails like to hang out in rosemary bushes and therefore sometimes convey essence of rosemary. We weren’t able to get that taste out of the tiny little wormy critters once we pulled them out of the shells. Can’t really describe their quite mild flavor. Scattered among the rice and meats were also some very good broad beans and pieces of what were possibly calcots!
Earlier our server had brought the jolly table next to us lovely layered coffee drinks. We asked what they were- “cremaets”- honey/sugar, coffee, rum, a little cinnamon. Looked delicious, so that’s what we asked for when offered dessert. Had some fun Spanish conversation with the other folks about food and drinks and retirement. They are regulars at the restaurant since they all live nearby. Total bill, including some tip, was $80 or so. As we were leaving, hostess introduced us to her parents who were sitting at a table chatting. Figure they are now probably semi-retired overseers of the restaurant. Emerge from restaurant to encounter more rain. Fortunately we have umbrellas and are just a few blocks to home. Liked Valencia very much, would like to have had a couple more days there to explore other neighborhoods, make more use of nearby central market, maybe do some walking tours, cultural events.
Next am dawned sunny (of course!). We packed and cleaned up. I ran over to the now open market (of course) just long enough to take some pictures inside. Meanwhile Mr G found receptacles to dispose of recyclables and other trash. Gave ourselves plenty of time to walk the few blocks to the train station and figure out train platform etc for our 10:40 train to Madrid. Fortunately Mr G suddenly felt curious/anxious that our train hadn’t yet shown up on display, and that other trains seemed to be more commuter types. Looking more closely at tickets we’d bought and printed off ages ago, we realized in panic that we were in fact at wrong station. Train to Madrid would not leave from Valencia Nord where we had arrived, but rather from Valencia Joaquin Sorolla. Oh look! Our ticket says from Valencia js! Guess that’s what that js stands for. Sigh. Fortunately stations aren’t too far apart. We jumped on a short connecting bus pointed out to us by an attendant and jumped out at js. As luck would have it, we arrived at js just before 10:40 to discover that our train had been delayed to 11:10. Whew! Not only that, but the delay would shorten our 2 hour wait in Madrid for our connection to Granada. (No direct train between Valencia and Granada, and buses arrived too late. Could have flown- through Mallorca, but didn’t.). So our careless mistake didn’t end badly after all. Lesson learned: Check and doublecheck all info on your tickets! Never assume. Duh.
On to Granada!
Since our Air bnb apt is just 10 minute walk from train station in the Valencia old town neighborhood, we have decided we’ll just walk. Unfortunately weather is suddenly very gusty with spitting rain, but sun. Then suddenly there’s a rainbow! Down a narrow quiet street near the big central market, we ring the bell at #14 as instructed. Owner German comes down to let us in and help carry bags up yet another narrow winding staircase. Ushers us in to our cozy little apt. The very old bldg (16th century) has been given a boring plaster facade on the street, so the interior rehab job has exposed some of the old walls in places for effect. It’s a 2 story apt with living room and one tiny bedroom downstairs and then up some steps to bigger bedroom, bath and kitchen. Lots of old exposed beams. Charming. And more electrical outlets and lights than we’ve ever seen, especially in such an old bldg. There’s a tiny balcony with the standard 2 chairs and table. German and a friend hang around for awhile working to program a new remote for the ac/heater. They also give us lay of land.
The weather has continued to deteriorate, so we run out to Carrerfour grocery a couple blocks away and procure the usual breakfast stuff, wine/beer, and ham and cheese. Stop at bakery for bread. Hunker down for rest of eve and listen to rain.
Take advantage of down time and do load of laundry in machine in bathroom. Catch up with life and research. Crash. Sleep well in dark cave like bedroom.
Wake up the next day to more thunder and lightning. Hard rain from time to time diminishes our enthusiasm for venturing out. So we call it a rest day, feeling quite cozy in our little apt. I do some research on paella, since it is one of things Valencia Is known for. Decide we should try for a paella lunch next day at the nearby and we’ll known Restaurante Navarro, open only in the afternoon 1-4. Make rez for 3:30 and commit to 2 orders of traditional Valencian paella - with chicken, rabbit, and snails - which must be ordered a day in advance. (I don’t know why, maybe takes awhile to catch those rabbits and beat the rosemary bushes for the little land snails?).
Run out with umbrellas in late afternoon just across street to Pinza Re pizza that we’d read good things about. Gregarious young woman from Sicily details the 10 or so kinds of small pizzas available. We settle on three. She admonishes us not to microwave for more than a minute as they will be ruined. Turns out all her pizzas have gluten free crusts (she mentions soy and rice flour). Even reheated they were excellent- our first gluten free pizza crusts! Another nice sleep in our cave.
More thunder and lightning next early am, followed by some improvement. We make some French toast with left over bread and few remaining eggs. Though first spend some time trying to wig out operation of cooktop, which doesn’t seem to stay powered on. Texting the owner we discover that this induction stovetop requires placing pan on it for continued operation. Who knew.
After breakfast, we are finally ready to take on some Valencia. First stop is to be the nearby central market (renowned chef, restauranteur, and Nobel Peace prize nominee Jose Andres visited the market in November and called it one of the most beautiful markets in all of Spain). Alas, we find it is shut tight. No idea why, as it is supposedly only closed on Sunday. (Found out later that Jan 22 is some kind of holiday in Valencia.) We are disappointed of course, but now have time freed up to do some other things.
So we take more time visiting the old silk (mercantile) exchange building (La Longa de la Seda) and the Parroquia de San Nicholas, this time taking time to follow along with audio guides. La Longa is a beautiful old bldg (circa late 15th century) mostly entirely empty now and occasionally used for events). Many interesting features, including a wall courtyard with orange trees, ornate carved stone and wood work. The parraquia is also interesting to see- Gothic on outside, but elaborately Baroque on the inside. Mr G expresses an interest in seeing the old river bed that is now Turia Park that stretches 9 km through the city. The river was diverted from here in the 60s to reduce flooding risk to the city. We follow map to the park and then on to one of the remaining beautiful old gates to the city, built in 1392, tall and grand.
Sky has turned black now and looks very threatening. But we still have some precious last day in Valencia time before our 3:30 lunch, so we hail a cab and go to the very modern City of Arts and Sciences, another Valencia landmark - if only just to see the interesting futuristic buildings. Fantastic! Walk all around the Opera House, Hemispheric, covered garden, pools, and ante room of the science museum. Sorry we didn’t have more time to do it all justice. We understood from the cabdriver that a nighttime visit with lights would possibly have been even better.
Hail another taxi back to Restaurante Navarro. The restaurant is still full, but we are seated immediately on first floor near front windows. Super charming friendly hostess is probably granddaughter of original owners. They have been in biz since 1950s. We remind her of our pre ordered Paella Valenciana. And she reminds us that it will still take 20 to 30 mins to cook. We order drinks and a starter of grilled vegetables. Regret not trying their sangria, which I like if it’s really good sangria and not overly sweet. But end up just with some red wine.
Beautifully displayed starter of grilled veggies arrives at leisurely pace. Very thinly sliced eggplant, peppers, squash, onions, tomato. Also great bread and delicious garlic aioli. Our paella arrives pretty much on schedule, and we dig in quickly, anxious to retry rabbit after long hiatus and see what exactly these snails are. Turns out they are still in their very small (no more than 1/2 inch in diameter) striped shells. Later I read that some cooks substitute fresh rosemary for the snails if unavailable. Why? Because these snails like to hang out in rosemary bushes and therefore sometimes convey essence of rosemary. We weren’t able to get that taste out of the tiny little wormy critters once we pulled them out of the shells. Can’t really describe their quite mild flavor. Scattered among the rice and meats were also some very good broad beans and pieces of what were possibly calcots!
Earlier our server had brought the jolly table next to us lovely layered coffee drinks. We asked what they were- “cremaets”- honey/sugar, coffee, rum, a little cinnamon. Looked delicious, so that’s what we asked for when offered dessert. Had some fun Spanish conversation with the other folks about food and drinks and retirement. They are regulars at the restaurant since they all live nearby. Total bill, including some tip, was $80 or so. As we were leaving, hostess introduced us to her parents who were sitting at a table chatting. Figure they are now probably semi-retired overseers of the restaurant. Emerge from restaurant to encounter more rain. Fortunately we have umbrellas and are just a few blocks to home. Liked Valencia very much, would like to have had a couple more days there to explore other neighborhoods, make more use of nearby central market, maybe do some walking tours, cultural events.
Next am dawned sunny (of course!). We packed and cleaned up. I ran over to the now open market (of course) just long enough to take some pictures inside. Meanwhile Mr G found receptacles to dispose of recyclables and other trash. Gave ourselves plenty of time to walk the few blocks to the train station and figure out train platform etc for our 10:40 train to Madrid. Fortunately Mr G suddenly felt curious/anxious that our train hadn’t yet shown up on display, and that other trains seemed to be more commuter types. Looking more closely at tickets we’d bought and printed off ages ago, we realized in panic that we were in fact at wrong station. Train to Madrid would not leave from Valencia Nord where we had arrived, but rather from Valencia Joaquin Sorolla. Oh look! Our ticket says from Valencia js! Guess that’s what that js stands for. Sigh. Fortunately stations aren’t too far apart. We jumped on a short connecting bus pointed out to us by an attendant and jumped out at js. As luck would have it, we arrived at js just before 10:40 to discover that our train had been delayed to 11:10. Whew! Not only that, but the delay would shorten our 2 hour wait in Madrid for our connection to Granada. (No direct train between Valencia and Granada, and buses arrived too late. Could have flown- through Mallorca, but didn’t.). So our careless mistake didn’t end badly after all. Lesson learned: Check and doublecheck all info on your tickets! Never assume. Duh.
On to Granada!
