StCirq

I'm still loving this. But I have to add my view that I despise the Vatican, and I have no shame in saying so. I've been through that tourist hell-train several times, and it never once escaped me that by selling one Etruscan urn or some painting or other one could have saved Nigeria or Aleppo or some other godforsaken place. I find the whole place utterly shameful.

bvlenci

You could say the same about the British Museum, and they actually plundered a lot of what they have from their colonies. Most of what the Vatican has at least comes from Italy.

I really don't want the British Museum and the Vatican Museums to sell off their art works to save the world, though. I would rather other means were used, because selling art would usually these days confine it to "anonymous private buyers", and no one would ever see it again.

annhig

You could say the same about the British Museum, and they actually plundered a lot of what they have from their colonies. Most of what the Vatican has at least comes from Italy.

I really don't want the British Museum and the Vatican Museums to sell off their art works to save the world, though. I would rather other means were used, because selling art would usually these days confine it to "anonymous private buyers", and no one would ever see it again.>>

not just the colonies, bvl. but ironically just about the only artefacts left from Palmyra and other such places are in museums like the British Museum and the Hermitage. and selling them off would not have saved a single person in Palmyra or anywhere else that ISIS has invaded.

progol

I'm heading to Rome in March and have saved this thread -- so much here to help in my planning!

OReilly

Hello all:

Apologies for the very long delay in completing this. I am hoping to finish over the Christmas break.

Thanks for following along

Best regards ... Ger

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++
Wednesday Day Six: Part 2: Campo de' Fiori

Travellers rave about Campo de' Fiori, so I had to visit. I walked from Villa Farnesina to Campo de' Fiori - very nice walk, on a gloriously sunny, slightly chilly morning.

Campo de' Fiori:

Frankly, I just don’t understand why people get zealously excited about visiting food markets, when in major cultural centres such as Rome, London, and Venice. Truly, I have always had a problem getting excited about visiting vegetables, when the alternatives are significant architectural, archaeological and artistic treasures.

I wandered among the purveyors of vegetables and flowers, and took some photos. It was a bit off-putting that a good portion of the stalls were NOT locals selling veg. There were many stalls selling cheap crap from Bangladesh, no doubt output from labour working in horrific conditions, and stalls selling produce (pasta and sauces) that were probably bought from the Italian equivalent of Costco and resold in the market at triple the cost. Disturbing, and not a positive experience for me.

I needed a coffee, but refused to enter any of the surrounding establishments aggressively touting for my business.

Personally, I just don’t get the charm of the place, but I think I explained why above.

Here are my pictures:
pix.sfly.com/Gs-s_7Vh

And some other links to help you with your planning, as I am sure most will not agree with my perspective, which is as it should be!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campo_de%27_Fiori

http://www.turismoroma.it/cosa-fare/...-fiori?lang=en

Next: Palazzo Altemps

annhig

Ger - I normally love food markets but I have to agree with you that the Campo dei Fiori has been adversely affected by tourism. Last time I was there [ok, nearly 5 years ago] there were still some traditional businesses like the hole in the wall pizzeria, the up-market deli, the odd little cafe, but even then they were sadly under threat from the tourist tat which was quickly taking over. Sorry to read that by the sound of it, it's in the ascendancy.

Nice pics anyway!

TexasAggie

Wonderful trip report, Ger!
Cannot wait to read about your sightseeing in Bologna. We are in the prelim planning stages for a bonus second 2017 trip around the Christmas/New Year holidays. We've traveled in Italy off-season before but never during the holidays. We'll spend a week in Montepulciano to see friends but will have another 7-8 days. Considering Bologna for that second week as we have never been and it sounds charming, plus seems so well located for day trips to Ravenna, Ferrara, perhaps even Verona.

mymatemarmite

I am LOVING this trip report, thankyou so much for taking so much time over it

Huggy

OReilly:

Any idea when you might finish Bologna? Wonderful report on Rome but I have friends whom are traveling to Bologna and I would like to pass on to them.

H

marigross

Hi Ger! We are heading to Rome in April and I'm grateful for all the wonderful info.

dutyfree

Anxiously waiting for the the rest of Bologna!

kovsie

Thank you for such a great report. Thank you for the detail and practical tips. You are my kind of traveler ... except that I tend to walk slowly, slowly in the wrong direction! To be alone at the Trevi at 6 am on a summer morning, or to see the sun rise over the forum ... wonderful memories of Rome.

kleeblatt

Regarding Bologna, I found the square of in front of the monstary of Santo Stefano to be the most beautiful in Bologna. There was something magical about how it's steeped in history with various buildings to prove it.

I enjoyed the tour of San Stefano as well but only after reading up on its history and significance. Built on a pagan site, the compound once had seven churches but now only four exist. Each church has its own importance and meaning. I especially found the replica of Christ's tomb fascinating as well as the room honour all the fallen air pilots during the last wars. In fact, it was the latter where we stayed in longest and only found due to some thorough snooping of the monastary.

carolsc

Just had a lovely lunch at Piperno as you recommended. I also had the pasta alla vongole which was very good (except that clams were missing from many of the shells, and no, they weren't somewhere in my bowl). The carbonara was also very good but the highlight was the artichokes sautéed with garlic and parsley. The best I have had here! Thank you so much!

carolsc (loving Rome!)

Leely2

<i>Regarding Bologna, I found the square of in front of the monstary of Santo Stefano to be the most beautiful in Bologna. </i>

I agree. My first visit time in Bologna I wandered by Santo Stefano when my sandal strap broke. I half-fixed it but gave up wandering, instead deciding to have a very casual dinner of salad and wine in one of the cafes on the piazza. A beautiful view and a perfect way to spend the summer evening.

OReilly

> I found the square of in front of the monstary of Santo Stefano to be the most beautiful in Bologna. <

Absolutely! I spent a sunny Sunday in the area and had lunch in a restaurant on the square.

Glad you enjoyed your lunch at Piperno Carol. I was only sorry I did not have an opportunity to go back.

starrs

Love this report! Thanks for the restaurant suggestions in Rome. I think we'll follow in your footsteps.

goddesstogo

Oh no. I've been waiting and waiting for the rest of the Bologna report! Are you coming back, Ger?

starrs

She's there again! I hope she writes the new trip report fast!