Ger's Trip to Rome & Bologna
Nov 8th, 2016, 03:03 AM
#102
tp - my advice is to go immediately to the Sistine Chapel and then go back to the beginning and do it all again more slowly.
You'll still have beaten all the crowds but you'll hopefully have seen the chapel in relative peace and quiet.
A few years ago I wouldn't have suggested that as the first time we went it took us several hours to get as far as the Chapel but they seem to have reorganised things a bit so that you can get there a lot more quickly.
you do know about the back exit to the Chapel that goes straight into St Peter's, don't you?
You'll still have beaten all the crowds but you'll hopefully have seen the chapel in relative peace and quiet.
A few years ago I wouldn't have suggested that as the first time we went it took us several hours to get as far as the Chapel but they seem to have reorganised things a bit so that you can get there a lot more quickly.
you do know about the back exit to the Chapel that goes straight into St Peter's, don't you?
Nov 9th, 2016, 10:44 AM
#104
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Tuesday Day Five: Part 6: Escape from The Vatican Museum
From Purgatory to Hell
Once I exited the Sistine Chapel, walked down the steps and handed my audio-guide back, I thought I was free. I thought I could escape into the freedom of Rome. How naive was I!
There was this massive line-up to exit up to St. Peters. I explained to yet another Guard that I did NOT want to visit St. Peter’s, I just wanted to get OUT.
No, there was only one way to get out, through that massive hoard that was in front of me, that was not moving an inch, and on its way to St Peters.
I had several conversations with various guards on the way, in frustration, I am quite sure I had at least one that involved “I don’t want to get to effing St. Peter’s, I just want to get effing out!’. Clearly, they did not understand the vernacular. Deaf ears again.
The line just went on and on. There was a point where I could have leaped over the barrier and ran, but I was worried that the last thing my family would have seen of me was being mowed down in Vatican Square by the Italian army. Tempting, but I decided not to do it to my family.
So I just had to keep going, in this hot sweaty line-up that goes toward a place I do not want to do be. I was surely in HELL.
Eventually it ended, and I escaped from the Vatican, and ran down the road, considering my move.
I abandoned previous plans, a visit to Castel Sant'Angelo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castel_Sant%27Angelo
I just wanted to walk in the sunshine, so I walked to Trastevere.
From Purgatory to Hell
Once I exited the Sistine Chapel, walked down the steps and handed my audio-guide back, I thought I was free. I thought I could escape into the freedom of Rome. How naive was I!
There was this massive line-up to exit up to St. Peters. I explained to yet another Guard that I did NOT want to visit St. Peter’s, I just wanted to get OUT.
No, there was only one way to get out, through that massive hoard that was in front of me, that was not moving an inch, and on its way to St Peters.
I had several conversations with various guards on the way, in frustration, I am quite sure I had at least one that involved “I don’t want to get to effing St. Peter’s, I just want to get effing out!’. Clearly, they did not understand the vernacular. Deaf ears again.
The line just went on and on. There was a point where I could have leaped over the barrier and ran, but I was worried that the last thing my family would have seen of me was being mowed down in Vatican Square by the Italian army. Tempting, but I decided not to do it to my family.
So I just had to keep going, in this hot sweaty line-up that goes toward a place I do not want to do be. I was surely in HELL.
Eventually it ended, and I escaped from the Vatican, and ran down the road, considering my move.
I abandoned previous plans, a visit to Castel Sant'Angelo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castel_Sant%27Angelo
I just wanted to walk in the sunshine, so I walked to Trastevere.
Nov 9th, 2016, 11:59 AM
#105
Once I exited the Sistine Chapel, walked down the steps and handed my audio-guide back, I thought I was free. I thought I could escape into the freedom of Rome. How naive was I!>>
Ger - where did you hand back your audio guide? when we last went, you had to go right back to the entrance hall at the top of the spiral staircase and then you exited through the big doors at the front. Are you saying that they corralled you all the way back round the walls of the Vatican to the front of St Peter's? - it's at least ½ a mile. That would definitely p..me off too!
BTW, IMO you didn't miss much with the Castel San Angelo - apart from a nice view from the cafe, it's not much to write home about.
Ger - where did you hand back your audio guide? when we last went, you had to go right back to the entrance hall at the top of the spiral staircase and then you exited through the big doors at the front. Are you saying that they corralled you all the way back round the walls of the Vatican to the front of St Peter's? - it's at least ½ a mile. That would definitely p..me off too!
BTW, IMO you didn't miss much with the Castel San Angelo - apart from a nice view from the cafe, it's not much to write home about.
Nov 10th, 2016, 09:15 AM
#107
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No Ann, we existed out of the Sistine Chapel, down the stairs, where we left our audio guides, and out the exit at the side of St. Peters. Without crowds, that would have taken about 2 minutes but with the crowds, about 30 minutes!
Thanks bon voyage. More to come later this evening.
Best ... Ger
Thanks bon voyage. More to come later this evening.
Best ... Ger
Nov 10th, 2016, 11:48 AM
#108
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Tuesday Day Five: Part 7: Walking Trastevere
I made my way to Trastevere.
I had a long and delicious lunch outside, under an awning, at Ristorante Paris- see restaurant section for details. At some point, the skies opened and the rain pelted down.
Once the rain had stopped, I set about exploring Trestevere. It was such a blessed relief to be out of the crowds of Rome central, in a ‘neighbourhood’. It is indeed unique compared to any other area I had visited thus far. Someone said to me that Trasevere is what Rome would look like, had Rome not become a great Capital city under the Popes, and subsequent rulers.
Some resources to help with your planning:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trastevere
http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/i...city-117945260
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-...articles/77701
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/it...-s-trastevere/
Trastevere Museum
I started with a short visit to the Trastevere Museum, which contains some poignant photographs and paintings of its past, and worth a visit, if you have the time.
http://en.museodiromaintrastevere.it/
Santa Maria in Trastevere
Next, was the beautiful church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, renowned for its mosaics. A definite ‘must visit’ regardless.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_in_Trastevere
From the Internet:
The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere was possibly the first church in Rome where a public mass was held. Before the third century masses were often held in secret in underground catacombs.
The basilica is said to be the first church dedicated to Mary, the mother of Jesus. Undisputedly one of the oldest churches in the city, its basic floor plan and wall structure date back to the mid fourth century.
The most attractive part of this church are the many authentic mosaics that were added in the twelfth and thirteenth century.
The mosaics on the facade depict Mary and ten women. The women with burning lamps were virgins while the others were widows. The two tiny people at the foot of Mary represent the financiers of the church building.
The restored mosaics on the apse vault and the triumphal arch date from about 1140. The triumphal arch mosaic depicts the four evangelists, the prophets Isaiah and Jeremiah, caged birds representing sin, seven candlesticks, and a Chi-Rho (Christogram).
The apse vault represents the coronation of Mary, who is shown seated on a throne beside Christ. They are flanked by saints and pope Innocent II who holds a model of the church. Below them are lambs and scenes from the life of Mary, created in 1291 by Pietro Cavallini. Cardinal Bertoldo Stefanischi, who provided the funds for the creation of the mosaic, is shown in a scene below, where he is kneeling before the figure of Mary and the apostles Peter and Paul.
Avila Chapel
There's much more to admire in the church than just mosaics. Look up and you'll see the gilded wooden ceiling, beautifully decorated with a painting of the 'Assumption of the Virgin', and created in 1616 by Domenichino. Look down and you'll see a marble patterned floor, authentic Cosmatesque.
The twenty-two ancient Ionic columns that support the nave were once decorated with figures of Egyptian gods. Unfortunately, they were removed in 1865 on the order of pope Pius IX who considered them too pagan.
The most interesting chapel in the church is the Avila Chapel. The Baroque chapel, created in 1678-1685 by Antonio Gherardi for his patron Francesco Avila, has a dome-like ceiling adorned with angelic statues.
My very poor photos:
pix.sfly.com/8Cin0jpw
Photos from the Internet:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Sa...sAQIOQ&dpr=1.5
Next: More Walking Trastevere
I made my way to Trastevere.
I had a long and delicious lunch outside, under an awning, at Ristorante Paris- see restaurant section for details. At some point, the skies opened and the rain pelted down.
Once the rain had stopped, I set about exploring Trestevere. It was such a blessed relief to be out of the crowds of Rome central, in a ‘neighbourhood’. It is indeed unique compared to any other area I had visited thus far. Someone said to me that Trasevere is what Rome would look like, had Rome not become a great Capital city under the Popes, and subsequent rulers.
Some resources to help with your planning:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trastevere
http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/i...city-117945260
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-...articles/77701
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/it...-s-trastevere/
Trastevere Museum
I started with a short visit to the Trastevere Museum, which contains some poignant photographs and paintings of its past, and worth a visit, if you have the time.
http://en.museodiromaintrastevere.it/
Santa Maria in Trastevere
Next, was the beautiful church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, renowned for its mosaics. A definite ‘must visit’ regardless.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_in_Trastevere
From the Internet:
The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere was possibly the first church in Rome where a public mass was held. Before the third century masses were often held in secret in underground catacombs.
The basilica is said to be the first church dedicated to Mary, the mother of Jesus. Undisputedly one of the oldest churches in the city, its basic floor plan and wall structure date back to the mid fourth century.
The most attractive part of this church are the many authentic mosaics that were added in the twelfth and thirteenth century.
The mosaics on the facade depict Mary and ten women. The women with burning lamps were virgins while the others were widows. The two tiny people at the foot of Mary represent the financiers of the church building.
The restored mosaics on the apse vault and the triumphal arch date from about 1140. The triumphal arch mosaic depicts the four evangelists, the prophets Isaiah and Jeremiah, caged birds representing sin, seven candlesticks, and a Chi-Rho (Christogram).
The apse vault represents the coronation of Mary, who is shown seated on a throne beside Christ. They are flanked by saints and pope Innocent II who holds a model of the church. Below them are lambs and scenes from the life of Mary, created in 1291 by Pietro Cavallini. Cardinal Bertoldo Stefanischi, who provided the funds for the creation of the mosaic, is shown in a scene below, where he is kneeling before the figure of Mary and the apostles Peter and Paul.
Avila Chapel
There's much more to admire in the church than just mosaics. Look up and you'll see the gilded wooden ceiling, beautifully decorated with a painting of the 'Assumption of the Virgin', and created in 1616 by Domenichino. Look down and you'll see a marble patterned floor, authentic Cosmatesque.
The twenty-two ancient Ionic columns that support the nave were once decorated with figures of Egyptian gods. Unfortunately, they were removed in 1865 on the order of pope Pius IX who considered them too pagan.
The most interesting chapel in the church is the Avila Chapel. The Baroque chapel, created in 1678-1685 by Antonio Gherardi for his patron Francesco Avila, has a dome-like ceiling adorned with angelic statues.
My very poor photos:
pix.sfly.com/8Cin0jpw
Photos from the Internet:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Sa...sAQIOQ&dpr=1.5
Next: More Walking Trastevere
Nov 10th, 2016, 12:19 PM
#109
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Ger, thanks for helping me visualize in words and in photographs some of the things we will be doing on our own trip to Rome in less than two weeks time.
Ann, thanks for the tips on the Vatican Museum.
I'm very much looking forward to getting out of the country for a few days, especially after the shock from Tuesday night.
Ann, thanks for the tips on the Vatican Museum.
I'm very much looking forward to getting out of the country for a few days, especially after the shock from Tuesday night.
Nov 10th, 2016, 12:36 PM
#110
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Tuesday Day Five: Part 8: Walking Trastevere Continued
I spent the remainder of the afternoon wandered through Trastevere, enjoyed its squares, its tiny streets, and its faded architecture. I felt so content wandering the tranquil streets.
My Photos:
pix.sfly.com/CN8NUrdz
Internet photos:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=tr...HTHPCt8QsAQIGg
I walked back to the hotel, and had my usual glass of wine in the rooftop bar, planning a long day tomorrow.
I spent the remainder of the afternoon wandered through Trastevere, enjoyed its squares, its tiny streets, and its faded architecture. I felt so content wandering the tranquil streets.
My Photos:
pix.sfly.com/CN8NUrdz
Internet photos:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=tr...HTHPCt8QsAQIGg
I walked back to the hotel, and had my usual glass of wine in the rooftop bar, planning a long day tomorrow.
Nov 10th, 2016, 12:42 PM
#111
No Ann, we exited out of the Sistine Chapel, down the stairs, where we left our audio guides, and out the exit at the side of St. Peters. Without crowds, that would have taken about 2 minutes but with the crowds, about 30 minutes!>>
I think that explains it, Ger. I've taken that staircase a couple of times and to be fair, I don't think that once you are on it, there IS anywhere else to go, except perhaps backwards! I agree that without the crowds it should take a few minutes and then it has the advantage that you can get into St Peter's without having to walk all the way round the outside of the Vatican walls and queue up to get through security.
Not much use if you don't want to visit St Peter's of course.
For some reason we liked St Cecelia's more than Santa Maria in Trastevere - perhaps because it was the first church we visited on our first day in Rome. but we enjoyed the whole area very much and I'd quite like to stay there on another visit.
I think that explains it, Ger. I've taken that staircase a couple of times and to be fair, I don't think that once you are on it, there IS anywhere else to go, except perhaps backwards! I agree that without the crowds it should take a few minutes and then it has the advantage that you can get into St Peter's without having to walk all the way round the outside of the Vatican walls and queue up to get through security.
Not much use if you don't want to visit St Peter's of course.
For some reason we liked St Cecelia's more than Santa Maria in Trastevere - perhaps because it was the first church we visited on our first day in Rome. but we enjoyed the whole area very much and I'd quite like to stay there on another visit.
Nov 11th, 2016, 12:01 PM
#112
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Wednesday Day Six: Part 1
I was up bright and early to get to Villa Farnesina at opening time.
Villa Farnesina:
http://www.villafarnesina.it/?lang=en
It is a little gem, not often visited, because it is off the regular tourist path, in Trastevere. On that morning, there was only myself, and two German gentlemen enjoying its riches.
There are beautiful frescos by Raphael, Sebastiano del Piombo, Giulio Romano, and Il Sodoma.
It is simply perfect! I was so entranced by the frescos. My heart left far lighter than it had entered.
My Photos:
pix.sfly.com/Z3TpEnCP
Goole Photos:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Vi...Hfx9BNMQsAQIOg
On to Campo de’ Fiori.
I was up bright and early to get to Villa Farnesina at opening time.
Villa Farnesina:
http://www.villafarnesina.it/?lang=en
It is a little gem, not often visited, because it is off the regular tourist path, in Trastevere. On that morning, there was only myself, and two German gentlemen enjoying its riches.
There are beautiful frescos by Raphael, Sebastiano del Piombo, Giulio Romano, and Il Sodoma.
It is simply perfect! I was so entranced by the frescos. My heart left far lighter than it had entered.
My Photos:
pix.sfly.com/Z3TpEnCP
Goole Photos:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Vi...Hfx9BNMQsAQIOg
On to Campo de’ Fiori.
Nov 28th, 2016, 04:11 PM
#116
Am loving this report. Am so glad my trips to Rome were some years ago. (I think I'll watch Roman Holiday tonite -
We once made a spur of the moment trip to Rome on an Alitalia package (I think.) Anyhow, it included the Forum Hotel.. just across from the Forum. Their restaurant was so-so, but at nite there was a view of the lighted Forum.
Hoping for more and I trust you're over the bad cold by now.
We once made a spur of the moment trip to Rome on an Alitalia package (I think.) Anyhow, it included the Forum Hotel.. just across from the Forum. Their restaurant was so-so, but at nite there was a view of the lighted Forum.
Hoping for more and I trust you're over the bad cold by now.
Nov 29th, 2016, 06:59 AM
#118
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We got stuck in a very boring Borgia apartment tour in the Vatican. I share your frustration, Ger.
LOL, DH decided that tap dancing had to have started in Italy and especially Villa Farnese. A lovely place. Empty when we were there.
Good to get back to your TR!
LOL, DH decided that tap dancing had to have started in Italy and especially Villa Farnese. A lovely place. Empty when we were there.
Good to get back to your TR!
Nov 29th, 2016, 07:45 AM
#119
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TDudettte, do you mean the Villa Farnese in Caprarola? (A beautiful and little-known villa I saw for the first time this past May.) In Rome there is no Villa Farnese. There is a Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere, and a Palazzo Farnese, just south of Campo de'Fiori.
