O'Reilly, we were in the area but didn't make it to Arezzo. Interested in your experience.

Agreed, the DAVID is magnificent!

Wonderful, Thank you, now on to Arezzo

Great info, Ger. I know exactly how you feel about spending the extra money for a car but it relieves lots of stress, eh? We noticed the same thing in Greece in May one year—we in shirt sleeves and the Greeks in warm coats. It is as annhig says; just depends upon what one is used to. DH and I saw those plaster models at Accademia. Very interesting. Come on Arezzo!

<i><font color=#555555>"this was MY Spring holiday, and I was wearing linen and cotton…temperatures were in the 15-18’s"</font></i>

I don't travel with linen until the temps reach a steady 29 (85 ºF). IMO, linen is a distinctly summer fabric. For me, April is a month for layers, and I'm never without favorite pastel silks and lightweight cashmere.

Temps in NYC have been hovering around the mid-to-high 60's this past week, but the winds have stirred up quite a chill. Too many silly-looking people on the street are wearing shorts, while I'm still wrapped in a scarf and wearing gloves. A lot of people just like to be naked, and they can't wait for warmer weather. The minute the sun shines and weather forecasters announce it's spring, off come the clothes, no matter what the temperature is outside. Today it's 42º.

Too many people don't like to think about clothing, especially among men. At least Ger gave it some thought.

<i><font color=#555555>"8 days…with only carry-on luggage – its beyond my capabilities to pack like that"</font></i>

I always carry camera equipment and a mini-digital workstation, so it is impossible to ever consider "only carry-on." I always check a minimum of two bags (for clothing and personal items). I am never without 4 pairs of shoes, because I truly care about my feet when I travel. I never walk barefoot. My luggage is not x-large, and I'm an expert packer. The bags are extremely lightweight when empty, made with strong wheels and retractable handles. It's very easy to strap other bags to my wheeled-luggage.

<i><font color=#555555>"Italian women were bundled up in those ghastly black ‘puffer’ coats, topped with Burberry scarves, looking like the Michelin tyre logo-man."</font></i>

The "puffy" coat was never flattering, especially on those shorter gals. But they were all the rage with models in the early 80's. The refined nylon fabric and the down filling were so sensual to the touch. Now the fiberfill crap is made in China, and the retread version truly looks and feels like auto tire. Still, I'm sure Norma Kamali is smiling at the design's return.

LTD, Mimi and TDudette: Arezzo report coming up within the hour


NYCFS: 85 degrees and I want to be naked, or more likely in an air-conditioned room - can't handle the heat at all! Re the puffer coats - I lived in Toronto for more than half my life, and of course wore appropriate gear, but as you said, the proper eiderdown filling. I couldn't imagine living in that cold again.

I don't travel with linen until the temps reach a steady 29 (85 ºF). IMO, linen is a distinctly summer fabric. For me, April is a month for layers, and I'm never without favorite pastel silks and lightweight cashmere>>

NYC - you clearly don't live in the British Isles. we are so keen to divest ourselves of our winter clothing as soon as the least sign of spring arrives that we'll do it some hell or high water. in places where the summer temperatures are more reliable, you can afford to wait.

I have never seen those plaster figures at the Accademia - i wonder how we came to miss them. When we were there last [7 years ago, I didn't have time to go in again when I was there by myself 3 years ago] we did see the musical instruments though. And perhaps they have changed the exhibits in the main gallery - some of the pictures we saw were real corkers [and I don't mean that in a good way].

looking forward to Arezzo!

annhig.

I went to a wine tasting in Old Billingsgate market at London bridge on Saturday, and wore linen. I froze my A$$ off walking over London Bridge, but as they day got warmer, and we moved to Soho for Dim Sum, and then onto Borough market for more wine, I was perfectly comfortable, and she was shvitzing in her skinny jeans and winter boots!

OK, almost finished the Arezzo section

Ger - the same thing happened to me today in reverse - this morning I dressed for the lovely spring day we were promised, and when I came out of court at 2pm I was greeted by cold mizzle. Luckily I had some warmer clothes with me.

By 7.30 when I got home, it was quite a lot warmer again.

Friday 18th April: Arezzo

I sprinted to SMN station, and bought a ticket to Arezzo. Unfortunately, there was no indication on the ticket as to the train number, departure time or ultimate end-point of the train (open ticket, all day, and ultimate destination of train unknown) which did not help me to find the platform. You need to be careful about this, as some trains are direct (just over one hour) to Arezzo, and some require changes, and the end destination is often not Arezzo. I checked all the boards, no luck. I asked a man in an official looking uniform, and he was bloody useless. I then found a set of manned booths (manned entirely by women BYW, who spoke perfect English) just behind the ticket dispensers, and one directed me to the train and platform. Don’t forget to validate your ticket before boarding.

Just over an hour later, I arrived at Arezzo. As you exit the station, on the right-hand side, there is a Tourist Office. Pity I only discovered this AFTER coming back to the station at the end of the day – DUH! There is also a Tourist Office at the top of the town, but I didn’t discover that one either until the end of the day – DUH! Well, no-one can ever accuse me of being an organized traveller. When travelling, my enthusiasm often suppresses my organizational capabilities and common sense, but at least I have passed on this learned wisdom to those more organized than myself!

Its easy to find the historic centre – just march up the road directly opposite the train station (Via Guido), beyond the Piazza Guido Monaco, and turn right at any point, until you reach the Corso Italia. The higher you climb along the Corso Italia, the more delightful the town, and its only a gentle climb to Piazza Grande. What a beautiful square! Here I started my tour, by purchasing a map of the city and a tourist guide book. Here is some information that might be of use:

http://www.visitarezzo.com/what-see-...-medici-turism

http://www.visitarezzo.com/map-arezz...arezzo-tourism

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...n-Tuscany.html

Sometimes you fall in love with a town at first sight, and I did with Arezzo.

The Piazza Grande is thought to be one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy, but then most towns will claim that fame. But is it very lovely, with buildings dating from the 13th to the 18th century (I will attach some photos). It was beautiful to me, as it was almost entirely empty and eerily quiet, and after the frenetic pace of Firenze, the silence was very welcome. It is clearly an extremely affluent town, and a family town – well-dressed locals went about their business, pushing prams, dragging toddlers, greeting each other and doing their daily shopping.

If this Piazza was the only reason to visit Arezzo, then it is reason enough. I sat for a while in a cafe under the Pallazo delle Loggia, for a quick coffee, just to enjoy the square, and decide what I wanted to see, which I clearly should have done before I arrived, but I am a martyr to 'Just in Time' travel planning – mea culpa. This was difficult: As I reviewed my newly purchased guide book, I realized that this side trip really should take about a day and a half.

I certainly knew my first visit would be the Basilica of San Francisco to see the frescos. It was a lovely walk back down the town, though the medieval streets. I passed a few enticing food shops on the way and checked them out - what divine smells of meats and cheeses, and a myriad of beautiful doorways.

The Basilica San Francisco was built at the end of the 13th century, and is renowned for its fascinating frescos depicting the Legend of the True Cross, by Piero della Francesca (mid 15th century).

http://www.pierodellafrancesca.it/

The plain facade disguises the beauty within. The frescos are quite stunning, and tell the story of the journey of the cross, from its planting at the time of Adam, though the meeting of the Queen of Sheba and Solomon, to the Crucifixion, the conversion of Constantine and his defeat of Maxentius ... and onward. It is an engaging and imaginative tale, and the frescos are colourful and brilliantly executed. You should plan to spend a lot of time here, just to enjoy the art. Also visit the Bracci chapel, and admire its frescos and the cross of St. Francis of Assisi.

As luck would have it, there is a special exhibition in the basement of the church: L’oro nei Secoli della collezione Castellani (open until 2nd November). The exhibition showcases the work of the Castellani family during the 19th century – master goldsmiths that specialized in recreating archaeological jewellery designs. The pieces are divine and the workmanship outstanding. Here is information on the exhibit and the family.

http://www.artemagazine.it/arte-clas...-archeologico/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fortunato_Pio_Castellani

Time for a late lunch, and I certainly needed a glass of wine. My guidebook suggested Ristorante I Tre Bicchieri, Piazzetta Sopra il Ponte 3. I called the restaurant for directions, which were incomprehensible, and wandered for ages, but finally found it outside the old town, and in an alleyway beside a bank. In hindsight, I should have just sat down in one of the myriad of decent restaurants within the old town. However, the food overall was good. I started with the Tuscany bruschetta selection, which was a bit heavy for a warm day, but was very tasty, and followed with an excellent pasta al vongole, plus two glasses of red wine and a bottle of water. It was a very reasonable bill, and very friendly service. I would definitely try this restaurant again, and would love to have dinner there. Definite ‘thumbs-up’.

http://www.ristoranteitrebicchieri.com/

I wandered back up the Corso Italia, through very deserted streets, to the Pieve Santa Maria, a beautiful facade, church built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style.

http://www.medioevo.org/artemedieval...ediArezzo.html

I heard singing, and bad Catholic that I am, I suddenly realized that I had forgotten it was Good Friday, and the locals were in church doing the Stations of the Cross. I joined them, and participated for the first time in God knows how many years. I was late (it starts at 3 pm), and only caught the last three stations. The faithful varied in ages from babies in prams to the very ancient and infirm, and I was surprised at how many teenagers and 20-40s were there.

It was beautiful, and despite my long absence, I still remembered the response and the tune – Ora pro Nobis – pray for us. Joyful childhood memories flooded back, the years I spent in the choir, singing Gregorian Chant and celebrating the Easter Mid-Night Mass. Isn’t it extraordinary when you travel to a foreign land and find you have something in common with the locals?

As the worshippers faded away, I explored this gorgeous church, inside and out, and there is much to see. It is a real treasure.

I walked back up to the Piazza Grande, to the Palazzo del Tribunale (the Court House), and climbed the stairs up to the bell town for a rather lovely view of the Piazza and the surrounding countryside.

Onwards to the beautiful Palazzo Pretorio, a wonderful example of Arezzo’s medieval architecture. But, my energy was flagging and my feet hurting, as I had made a very novice mistake of wearing new shoes for my day in Arezzo. So, I just admired the exterior, but did not visit.

I wanted to see the Duomo, and its legendary windows. So I climbed a bit higher, got lost, and the finally found it. How could one miss it, it is a behemoth of a building. There is a lovely view of Tuscany from the gardens at the side. Inside the church, it was dark, as it was Good Friday. Hint: I used to carry a small torch and opera glasses for these occasions, so consider for your travels if you intend to explore churches. While the exterior is rather ugly, in my opinion, the interior is quite significant and rather lovely. The windows are definitely worth a visit, although in the fading light, I did not get the best view of them. There is a beautiful fresco of Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca, and a very colourful rose window on Descent of the Holy Spirit from the early 16th century. I wish I had more time to spend here, and I wish I had come earlier in the day.

I was frustrated – there was so much more I wanted to see in Arezzo, and angry with myself for not making it an entire day-trip, at the very least. I would have prepared to stay here overnight. The town just called out to me, I simply loved it. But, I had to head back to Firenze.

Here are some photos. Let me know if your can access, as this is the first time I have used this site (click on View Album – there are 80 photos):

https://arezzo18042014.shutterfly.com/pictures#n_5

I took the train at about 6pm for the journey back to Firenze. Took a taxi back to the hotel, opened the windows to breath in that sweet air, fell into bed, and went comatose.

Next: Rain, rain and more rain, and an itinerary adjustment.

Hi again O'Reilly,

Loved reading about your experience in Arezzo.

"I heard singing, and bad Catholic that I am, I suddenly realized that I had forgotten it was Good Friday, and the locals were in church doing the Stations of the Cross. I joined them, and participated for the first time in God knows how many years. I was late (it starts at 3 pm), and only caught the last three stations."

That sounds like a memorable experience.

Looking forward to more....

lovely to read about your visit to Arezzo, Ger. I don't think we'll be getting there this year, but it's definitely on my list.

Jumping on board...

Hi Ger! Loving your report!

I am going to have to put Arezzo on the list for next trip. Sounds great. Pics lovely!

I've got to get in gear and get my TR done, too. You've inspired me. (That's a lie- you make me feel guilty. However, I have an excuse. My most-beloved kitty was quite ill when I arrived home and I had to put him to sleep four days ago. I'm overwhelmed with grief, to say the least. But promise to get started soon!)

Best!
Paula

Oh Paula, I am so very sorry. I understand the heartbreak of loosing a beloved pet (many times, cats and dogs). Sending you massive hugs my dear lady.

I look forward to your trip report. I loved meeting up with you, and hope we shall do so again.

Warmest regards ... Ger

Ger, You really have me itching to get back to Italy. Great report.

sarge...sorry to hear about your kitty...I have one on borrowed time right now.

Thanks Maitaitom. I am in that post-trip depression phase, and writing the trip report is therapy. It does not help that it is pi$$ing out of the heavens here in London, and cold as November .

Brava, OReilly. DH and I hit Arezzo at siesta time so no church and the big piazza was torn up undergoing repairs. Thanks for showing what we missed!

Too bad we weren't in London at the same time.

Saturday April 19th

I had considered travelling to Siena today, but I checked the weather the night before, and discovered that there would be heavy rain, not the best conditions to walk around. I decided to see how I felt next morning. I slept well and very deeply, forgot to set my alarm, and woke at 0730 to the sound of pelting rain. I still could have made it to the station to catch a 9-ish train to Siena, but didn’t really feel like it. I decided on a day in Florence, and did a quick review of sites I wanted to visit, where I could spend as much of the day inside as possible.

I caught the hotel bus to the city at 0900, and was deposited at the Arno at about 0920, then hurried to the P. St. Croze, grabbed taxi to San Marco (if I forget to mention later, the major taxi ranks are to be found at S. Croce, Repubblica, Duomo, San Marco and Santa Maria Novell station). I reasoned that the rain would encourage people to stay indoors, and I would therefore have an opportunity to enjoy San Marco absence the crowds. I was right! I walked right in, and the only other visitors were a gaggle of teenagers from the Nodics with their teacher, and they were very polite and well behaved.

Museum San Marco

This museum is so very wonderful, and thank you annhig for the recommendation. Here is the website:

http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en/musei/?m=sanmarco

I suggest you buy the book (6 Euros) from the shop before entering – excellent photographs, but very poor text.

The ‘Pilgrims Hospice Room’, just to the right of the entrance, contains an astonishing collection of works by Fra Angelico between 1430-1450, all divine with vibrant colours, but there were three of particular note for me.

The first is the ‘Last Judgement’, where the Heavenly court arbitrates and decides on those that will be elevated to Heaven, and those condemned to Hell. There is probably an appropriate biblical text I should quote, but we were not big on the bible in my family, so I can just interpret what I personally saw in the painting. What interested me was that on the right-hand side of the painting, those condemned to Hell, included at least two monks and a cardinal/bishop. How brave was he to suggest that God’s holy anointed could be condemned to Hell.

The second is the ‘Doors of the Silverware Cupboard’ (not a promising title for such an extraordinary work). Each panel is approximately page-size, beautifully executed and it is a wonderful narrative, from the Annunciation to the Resurrection, which was appropriate for the Easter weekend.

The third is a set of three small panels (Lorenzo Monaco?), which are remarkable, as they are almost modern and surrealistic. Just a very personal perspective.

Exiting the room, you find yourself in the cloisters, where every bay is decorated by frescos, some better than others, but all lovely, Once again, I would recommend a pair or opera glasses or small binoculars to see the detail.

I spent a couple of hours exploring San Marco, and there were many more highlights, including Fra Angelico’s Annunciation and the Crucifixion, the monk’s dormitories, decorated with the frescos, everyone a gem. I visited Savonarola’s cell, of the ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’ fame, complete with his accessories, including his ‘hair shirt’ – I have intense dislike of this 15th Century Taliban-style terrorist.

Do visit the ‘Former Lodge’: It contains a selection of stone architraves rescued from the destruction of old Florence in the 19th century (around the P. Repubblica I think, and including the old Jewish Ghetto). In among the bits and pieces from medieval domestic dwellings and Catholic churches, I found stonework with Hebrew inscriptions, which may have come from the Synagogue. Who knows - all information on the pieces is written in Italian, so I am only guessing. It did remind me to add the Firenze Synagogue to my list of ‘must see’ places.

I would have spent more time in the museum, but the crowds were coming in, so I needed to leave. Schedule at least 2.5 hours at San Marco, and do it early in the morning to avoid the crowds, so you can appreciate the works.

I reluctantly left San Marco, and it was still raining.

Next: Santa Croce, other churches, and a long lunch.

so glad you enjoyed San Marco, Ger. I didn't buy the book, which was probably a mistake. Your experience was the same as mine in respect of other people there - there were very few people when I got there at about 8.30, and not very many more when I left about 2 hours later.

What a luxury to be able to look at these treasures, even the hair shirt, in peace and quiet.

looking forward to your long lunch!

Ger, again your prose urges me to put this one on my list. I recently read a historical novel that had this monster (Savonarola) at its center, so this will add to that read, for sure.

Sorry to hear of your crappy weather. Sunny and 90's here the next seven days. (33C)! Do come visit Texas some time.

On a side note, maitaitom- so sorry you have a sick kitty. I know you've had the worst w travel/pet worries. I am thankful Puck waited until I got home. He was completely stoic. I got his ashes back yesterday and know he'll always be with me in spirit. But he was my special boy and it's going to be tough for awhile. . Hang in there!

Ger- can't wait for more!!!