Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Ger’s Trip to Florence over Easter

Search

Ger’s Trip to Florence over Easter

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 14th, 2014 | 12:54 PM
  #61  
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
nice to know you're so busy, Ger. In these straightened times we need to make the most of those sorts of opportunities - especially if you can squeeze Paris in as well!
annhig is offline  
Old May 18th, 2014 | 09:36 AM
  #62  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Wandering, lunch, Oltrano and P. Michelangelo

I wandered for a while around the crowded streets, and started to think about lunch, as the crowds were irritating me.

I had read about the Fusion Bar in the Ferregamo hotel, specializing in sushi and a blend of far eastern and Italian flavours. I was desperate for some good Asian food, as I hadn’t had a chilli for days, and had a real craving. The hotel is situation on the Via dell’Oro, just a short walk from the Palazzo della Signoria: http://www.lungarnocollection.com/en...-florence.html

Unfortunately, the restaurant was only serves sandwiches and salads for lunch, so no luck there, but definitely worth checking out for dinner, and I would dearly like to stay at this hotel one day.

Next on my list was the Four Seasons. Annhig had written of it in one of her trip reports and reported a delicious buffet, including oysters, and all the champagne and wine you could drink for 70 Euros – jeeze, I have often racked up a bill of 70 Euros on oysters and champagne alone,so they would not make a profit on me. So, I walked to the Four Seasons, which is about a 15 minute walk from the Duomo. What a stunning hotel, and when I win the lottery, I will definitely stay there. I asked to see the menu. All-inclusive lunch was not available, it was a la carte, and the prices were outrageous, as one would expect. A quick calculation of the prices on the lunch menu indicated that, with wine, I was unlikely to get out of there short of about 150 Euros, so I decided to leave, and walk back to the Historic Centre.

Third choice was La Posta, a traditional Tuscan restaurant situated around P. Della Republica. I was in the general area, but couldn’t find it, so I called and, luckily, the man who answered spoke perfect English, and directed me – when I got close, I saw him waving at me .

No wonder I couldn’t find it, as it is in a small side-street opposite the main entrance to the Post Office (hence the name). It was warm and sunny, so I took a table outside in a nice shaded garden terrace, ordered a Prosecco and bottle of water, and reviewed the menu. I ordered the pasta alla Vongole to start, and the special Lamb lunch with peas, and a half-bottle of a decent red. I was in for a long lunch!

The pasta was excellent – its a simple dish, but sometimes not well executed. The wine was very good, but probably not the most sensible choice on a hot sunny day, but what the hell, I was on holidays. The lamb was good, but it wasn’t lamb IMO, it was hogget, a young sheep about 1-2 years old. I am very ‘precious’ about lamb, and the best lamb I have tasted has been from Ireland, Wales, Spain and Quebec (the very best). I am generally disappointed with lamb in Italy and France – its just not as tasty or sweet. Overall, I would recommend this restaurant – food was good, environment and service excellent.

Sarge56 was in Florence, and we had been texting, and had agreed to meet that evening at P. Michelangelo, at about 1900, to enjoy the sunset. So, I made my way to the Oltrano, and explored. The side streets were wonderful, but as soon as I approached the streets around the Ponte Vecchio, it was crowded and awful.

Footsore and tired, I took a taxi up to the P. Michelangelo. I had been there a couple of times, when it was peaceful. I was not prepared for the cacophony of it on a long weekend.
It reminded me of a song by Christy Moore – Lisdoonvarna (which only the Irish may appreciate):

The multitudes, they flocked in throngs
To hear the music and the songs.
Motorbikes and Hi-ace vans,
With bottles – barrels – flagons – cans.
Mighty craic. Loads of frolics,
Pioneers and alcoholics,
PLAC, SPUC and the FCA,
Free Nicky Kelly and the IRA.
Hairy chests and milk-white thighs,
Mickey dodgers in disguise.
Mc Graths, O’Briens, Pippins, Coxs,
Massage parlours in horse boxes.
There’s amhráns, bodhráns, amadáns,
Arab sheiks, Hindu Sikhs, Jesus freaks,
RTE are makin’ tapes, takin’ breaks and throwin’ shapes.
This is heaven, this is hell.
Who cares? Who can tell?
(Anyone for the last few Choc Ices, now?)

OK, definitely an exaggeration, but it was really unpleasant – don’t go there at the weekend!

I got table at a bar, and ordered a bottle of water. Then, I got a text from Sarge to say she was unwell, and would probably not be able to make it. Very disappointing, but we agreed to meet up at another time.

I grabbed a taxi back to the pick-up point for the bus back to my hotel, and planned my trip to Lucca the next day.

Next Lucca in the rain.
OReilly is offline  
Old May 18th, 2014 | 11:51 AM
  #63  
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Ger - sorry that the four Seasons let you down; it might have been that because it was Easter, they weren't doing the set price lunches. i've never found their websites very good at telling you about these "bargains" when they do have them - I've always had to e-mail and ask about them specifically.

I agree about the Piazzale Michelangelo - it was madness when i was there to, but the bar, under its north-west corner, was a haven of peace, perhaps because of its prices!

PS - only half a bottle of red? you weren't really trying!
annhig is offline  
Old May 18th, 2014 | 12:17 PM
  #64  
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Ger - found it:

http://www.ilpalagioristorante.it/ev...sunday_brunch/

[wasn't easy though!]
annhig is offline  
Old May 21st, 2014 | 06:16 AM
  #65  
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,629
Likes: 0
bookmarking to read when I have more time.
Cathinjoetown is offline  
Old May 21st, 2014 | 07:51 AM
  #66  
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 31,183
Likes: 0
More please here, and for Paris!
TDudette is online now  
Old May 21st, 2014 | 01:20 PM
  #67  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Sorry. I am working on the next instalment, but work is getting the way.

In the meantime, here are my photos of Lucca:

The Photos: https://lucca21042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/143

Best regards ... Ger
OReilly is offline  
Old May 21st, 2014 | 05:27 PM
  #68  
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
OReilly, thanks for the great pics of Lucca. Been to Italy several times but never made it there - always curious. Towers reminiscent of San G.

This may sound like a dumb question, but I will ask it anyway. When a person posts on Shutterfly which suggests "order prints," who gets the remuneration? I am not into photography and don't know how these sites work.
latedaytraveler is offline  
Old May 21st, 2014 | 05:28 PM
  #69  
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Meant to add that I am looking forward to your Paris adventure....
latedaytraveler is offline  
Old May 21st, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #70  
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,741
Likes: 0
Ger- disappointed by the Four Seasons and ME on the same day! How rude!

I've got to finish my Florence piece and I'm done with mine. Hope you have time in the near future to browse some of my pics (and what were we thinking that we didn't take a selfie after lunch????... too much wine! haha).
sarge56 is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2014 | 11:05 AM
  #71  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Hello all:

I'll post an update tonight. I am off to Dublin for a long weekend tomorrow morning - family party

annhig: thanks for that link. I am hope it was not available Easter weekend, and I didn't miss it!

TDudette: working on it!

Latedaytrveller: No idea, but I assume the site will get the revenue. Yep, I will try to write a report on Paris, before I forget it .

Hello Paula: I was VERY depleted that day . I am saving your trip report for this weekend, and looking forward to reading it. Where next? I am committed to doing a long weekend somewhere at least once a month. So wonderful to meet you and we need to do it again soon.

Best regards Ger
OReilly is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #72  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Lucca in the Rain: Monday 21st

Weather forecast predicted a rainy day in Lucca, but, but I wanted to do it anyway. I absolutely needed to get out of Florence and its hordes.

I took the 1010 from Florence, and arrived at about noon. It was a short walk from the station to the walled city. What a delight, despite the inclement weather!

I walked around the walls for a bit, and was annoyed that I had not set out earlier, so I could do the entire circuit.
There was intermittent light rain, so I decided to walk the town before the light rain became a deluge.

I wandered around the town, enjoying the market, shops and the wonderful churches, and fell in love with this town, and would defiantly consider an overnight stay. Architecturally, it is quite lovely, and an almost intact medieval town, with elements added from other eras, in very good taste. The architecture suggests a long history of confidence and affluence.

Check out the photos of my tour of Lucca.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucca


Time for lunch, as it was starting to pelt down. I had made a booking at the Giglo:
http://www.ristorantegiglio.com/temp...io.com/static/

I sat outside, under the awning, as the rain continued to pour down. Enterprising Africans were selling umbrellas, and were doing a brisk trade.

I ordered my favourite to start, Pasta alla Vongole, and Sea Bass to follow. Both were excellent, and accompanied by two glasses of white wine and a bottle of water. By the end of the meal, the rain had stopped, although it was still dark and cloudy and a little cool.

My first stop was the magnificent Cathedral of San Martino, a stunning building, built and added to from the 12th -15th century.

http://www.italyguides.it/us/italy/t...-st-martin.htm

The facade is as beautiful as any I have seen, and the carvings very fine, and almost move before your eyes. The interior is splendid, and there is much to see, but I will call out two pieces.

The Tomb of Ilaria del Carreto - a very delicate and beautiful portrait in marble of a young woman. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilaria_del_Carretto).

The Holy Face, contained in a magnificent and highly ornate temple. This is “an effigy, believed to have been carved by Nicodemus, as the time of Christ’s Crucifixion” (according to my guild book). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holy_Face_of_Lucca.

It has an interesting legend. Story to continue when I visited the museum.

After an hour of enjoying this monumental piece of architectural extravagance, I went next door to visit the cathedral museum, where the real valuables are stored – don’t miss it - it has treasures from the 11th century.

The most stunning treasures are on the ground floor, an entire ‘dress-up box’ of gold artefacts (14th – 17th century) that adorn the Holy Face, when it is taken on parade on the 13th September every year. There is a crown, a necklace, and a skirt, all beautifully crafted, by masters.

I had two reactions to this: Firstly, that I would love to see the procession; Secondly, that it is rather obscene to dress the Crucified Christ, a poor carpenter from Galilee and all he preached, in these fine and expensive vestments.

Next: More of Lucca
OReilly is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #73  
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
annhig: thanks for that link. I am hope it was not available Easter weekend, and I didn't miss it!>>

lol, so do I, Ger. i suspect that it wasn't available over Easter and they didn't bother to amend the website; let's just tell ourselves that anyway shall we?

thank you so much for sharing Lucca with us. DH and I spent about 1/2 a day there more years ago than I care to remember and found nothing to interest us. Yes, really. Clearly we didn't look very hard or very far. I am currently listening to a detective story in the car [a Thomas lindley mystery] that is partly set in Lucca so your report has helped me to visualise it.
annhig is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2014 | 06:29 AM
  #74  
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 31,183
Likes: 0
Wonderful shots, Ger. I loved the doors, windows, shutters and arch. details.

annhig, DH and i did the same. Arriving at siesta time was a partial explanation for us.
TDudette is online now  
Old May 23rd, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #75  
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
TD - perhaps we got there at the wrong time, but after 30+ years, that sort of detail has got lost somehow!
annhig is offline  
Old Jul 13th, 2014 | 09:14 AM
  #76  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Next: More of Lucca

Apologies for the long absence – I came back to a while load of work, a trip to Dublin, a trip to Paris and then a whole load of more work!

We continue .....

More of Lucca

SS. Giovanni and Reparata
http://www.turismo.intoscana.it/site...eparata-Lucca/

Yet another Church: It occurred to me that I had visited more churches over the last few days than I had in the last ten years, when I only go for baptisms and weddings, and thank God have not had to go for funerals.

This one is very special, because of the opportunity to dive into the past – the many layers of Lucca. Inside the church, you can go underground for a fascinating look at the archaeological excavations dating from the first century BC through the eleventh century AD including Roman remains, part of an early Christian church, and a medieval crypt. Not to be missed.

San Frediano:
I made my way to Basilica of San Frediano: a beautiful gem, built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century, on an earlier church from the 6th century. There is so much to see, including the rather stunning facade, a spectacular baptismal font and some rather impressive frescos and paintings.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_di_San_Frediano

I sat in the pews, behind a small tour group, just to enjoy the loveliness of the church, and overheard the tour guide telling the story of its foundation in the 6th century, and was delighted to learn that San Frediano, was a monk from Ireland.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fridianus

This was during a period when Ireland was known as the ‘Isle of Saints and Scholars’, when Irish Monks travelled to Scotland, England, France, Germany and Italy, established monasteries and learning, and converted the pagan hoards. This was completely unexpected, but wonderful to know that a distant ‘cousin’ had been in this town fourteen centuries ago, and made is mark. I was proud!

Anfiteatro Romano
Next on to the iconic Lucca image. What can I say? Lots of restaurants, few of which I would want to dine in, and touristy shops. I did not linger for long, as there were hoards of people doing ‘selfies’. I would probably enjoy the lovely area in the ‘off-season’.

http://www.italyguides.it/us/italy/t...anfiteatro.htm

Torre dei Guinigi
Needless to say, at this point I was foot-sore, and had diminished energy. Regardless, I had one more site that I had to see:
http://www.turismo.intoscana.it/site...ower-in-Lucca/

I am fairly fit, so the climb was not awful, but it is challenging at the end of a long day of walking. Let me please advise you, that this should be your FIRST experience in Lucca, not the last, after six hours of walking, and a couple of glasses of wine. It is well worth the climb for the view of Lucca.

San Michele
http://www.italyguides.it/us/italy/t...le-in-foro.htm

On my way back to the train station, I could not resist the opportunity to visit San Michele, which had been closed earlier in the day. Another jewel, with works from della Robbia and Lippi, surrounded by a perfect square.

I had to dash to the station for the train back to Florence, as the skies opened up and the rain pelted down, picking up a bottle of local wine and a bit of cheese on the way for tonight’s repast.

Lucca should not be a just day-trip from Florence; it is a destination in itself. There is so much that I didn’t see. I could easily spend three days or more in Lucca, spending some time exploring the surrounding region.

Lucca: The Photos: https://lucca21042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/143

Next: Meeting Sarge, and other stuff
OReilly is offline  
Old Jul 13th, 2014 | 10:47 AM
  #77  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Meeting Sarge56, and the Pitti Gllery

Florence: Tuesday 22nd
This was the day I moved into Florence, to the Montebello Splendid, and had stayed there before:
http://www.montebellosplendid.com/

I was a little sad to leave the Villa Omli, as it was perfect in so many ways: so peaceful, such great service, such a big room and such a wonderful bathroom! I highly recommend the Villa Omli:
http://www.villaolmifirenze.com/en/

Taxi picked me up at 0900, and drove me to the Montebello Splendid. Excellent service, and lovely room, but about half the size of the Villa Omli, as one would expect.

My itinerary was fairly fluid for today, as my main focus was meeting with Sarge for lunch!

Pizzi Palace
http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/en...m=palazzopitti

I wandered over to the Pitti Palace, which I had not visited for a decade. I had not booked, but the line did not look so bad, so I took my place. Within 20 minutes, I had bought my ticket and was in the door.

First stop was the Costume Gallery. I was hoping for some historic costumes, from earlier times, but that was not to be. However, I was delighted with the collection of 20th century couturier outfits on display.

I then walked through all of the rooms – yes all of them! There are some extraordinary works of art in every room, in addition to some works of art on the ceilings. The Pitti is overpowering on the senses! I got to a point of choosing my favourite artist in each room and appreciating just one painting.

Its exhausting - they should take the major art works out, and place in a separate gallery, and leave the poor paintings in the Pitti, so one can ignore the paintings and concentrate on the interior design.

Lunch with Sarge56

Sarge56 and I had missed the opportunity to meet at P. Michelangelo, as she was unwell. We agreed to meet at a restaurant in Oltrarno.

I had read her posts, and thought she was someone I would travel with, or enjoy meeting on my travels, and she most certainly is! I knew her as soon as I saw her, and the two-hour lunch was fun from beginning to end, and far too brief. She is an extraordinarily person, strong and good, and I am so glad to have met her. I wish we had had more time to spend together, but she was off home the next day.

Hugs Sarge, I hope we meet again in Europe
OReilly is offline  
Old Jul 13th, 2014 | 12:17 PM
  #78  
Original Poster
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Florence: Tuesday 22nd Evening

Having left Sarge56, I decided to use my Pitti Palace to walk around the Boboli gardens, and got hopelessly lost, but it was lovely, so late in the day, with so few people.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boboli_Gardens

I wasn’t ready to go back to my hotel, so I wandered around the Oltrarno for a while, then over the bridge to the Piazza St. Croce Pizza. I felt a bit hungry, looked up my guide book, and discovered, just up the road, there was an excellent Neapolitan Pizza joint.

Pizzaaliuolu, Via de' Macci 113/r,
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...e_Tuscany.html

It was about 1930, and the restaurant was full, and there were line-ups for dinning in and take-out. I didn’t fancy my chances of getting a table, but for some reason the lovely hostess managed to squeeze me in. Excellent food, excellent wine, excellent service, unbelievably cheap! This is a MUST in Florence, particularly for families – book ahead.

I took a taxi back to the hotel, to plan my trip to Fiesole, and the rest of the day.
OReilly is offline  
Old Jul 13th, 2014 | 05:37 PM
  #79  
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Hi OREILLY, glad you back and continuing your report. Waiting to hear about FIESOLE...
latedaytraveler is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
greene
Europe
10
Feb 5th, 2007 02:13 PM
jamiejay
Europe
11
Jan 2nd, 2007 11:32 AM
youngrandma
Europe
8
Oct 24th, 2005 01:43 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement -