Franco's favourite ... Roman accomo…districts
Dec 11th, 2007, 10:04 AM
#162
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Also on this thread, I have to say sorry to answer so late - I've been travelling much over the last two months!
geeper and JeanneB, thanks much for reporting back on "your" apartments. Your review, Jeanne, certainly makes the Piazza Rondanini rental sound less appealing. On a sidenote, did you eat at Angoletto? Years ago, this was one of my favourites in Rome, but haven't been there for an eternity now (there are just too many good restaurants in Rome!!!).
Rescue, this is precisely where I wouldn't want to stay. Via Carlo Alberto is one of the main fares (which means loud traffic to boot!) of central Rome's nowadays seediest quarter. I don't say it's literally dangerous, but so seedy that I don't feel comfortable there even in plain daylight. You may want to look elsewhere...
geeper and JeanneB, thanks much for reporting back on "your" apartments. Your review, Jeanne, certainly makes the Piazza Rondanini rental sound less appealing. On a sidenote, did you eat at Angoletto? Years ago, this was one of my favourites in Rome, but haven't been there for an eternity now (there are just too many good restaurants in Rome!!!).
Rescue, this is precisely where I wouldn't want to stay. Via Carlo Alberto is one of the main fares (which means loud traffic to boot!) of central Rome's nowadays seediest quarter. I don't say it's literally dangerous, but so seedy that I don't feel comfortable there even in plain daylight. You may want to look elsewhere...
Dec 21st, 2007, 09:45 PM
#163
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I am currently booked at Hotel Lancelot (Via Capo D'Africa) for 4 nights in April, but having read this thread, I am wondering whether to look further, perhaps in Franco's favorite area of Trastavere. Some other hotels that have interested me are: Hotel Santa Maria on Vicolo del Piede in Trastavere; Hotel San Francisco, also in Trastavere but I believe further south; Fellini B&B, Via Rasella 55; and Residenza Canali, Via Dei Tre Archi 13, these last two in the Piazza Navonna area. I'd appreciate anyone who can speak about these neighborhoods, including the one where Hotel Lancelot is located. What I'm looking for is an area that is lively, but not noisy and painfully crowded - for those familiar with NYC, I guess more like the village vs. 42nd St. I don't want a dark and quiet residential street either - I live on one of those 
. I'd like restaurants filled with locals within a short walk (15 minutes maybe). And of course I would like to be able to walk to many of the sights of the city. I do not want to have to use public transportation for every restaurant, ruin, museum, garden, etc., though I expect that I will have to use it for some things. Thanks to Franco in advance, and to anyone else who weighs in.
. I'd like restaurants filled with locals within a short walk (15 minutes maybe). And of course I would like to be able to walk to many of the sights of the city. I do not want to have to use public transportation for every restaurant, ruin, museum, garden, etc., though I expect that I will have to use it for some things. Thanks to Franco in advance, and to anyone else who weighs in.
Dec 21st, 2007, 11:08 PM
#164
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Via Capo d'Africa is the most residential and least central of your locations. It's fine for the Colosseum/Roman Forum, but it's a fair distance to most other "Top 10" sights.
Of the two in Trastevere, Hotel Santa Maria is within easy walking distance, via the pedestrians-only Ponte Sisto, to the historical center; from the Hotel San Francesco, you are more likely to find yourself taking the tram to Largo Argentina.
Residenza Canali is the most central location.
Via Rasella, on the other hand, is nowhere near Piazza Navona; it is near Piazza Barberini, and you'd probably take the Metro and/or buses to most things you will want to see.
Trastevere is probably the most like the Village. Restaurants abound there and in the historical center; you are unlikely to have to walk 15 minutes to find one to your taste.
Of the two in Trastevere, Hotel Santa Maria is within easy walking distance, via the pedestrians-only Ponte Sisto, to the historical center; from the Hotel San Francesco, you are more likely to find yourself taking the tram to Largo Argentina.
Residenza Canali is the most central location.
Via Rasella, on the other hand, is nowhere near Piazza Navona; it is near Piazza Barberini, and you'd probably take the Metro and/or buses to most things you will want to see.
Trastevere is probably the most like the Village. Restaurants abound there and in the historical center; you are unlikely to have to walk 15 minutes to find one to your taste.
Dec 21st, 2007, 11:51 PM
#165
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I have to disagree, because I personally found staying on via Rasella to be very convenient. Piazza Navona is about a 20-minute walk away (1.55 km by Mappy), but seems shorter due to the extremely interesting surroundings. The Trevi is about 2 minutes walk, the Pantheon about 10 or 12. The Spanish Steps are about 8 or 10 minutes away, and Villa Borghese is about 25. You can easily use the metro or bus to get to the Vatican.
I did an Enjoy Rome walk one afternoon that went something like Colosseum - Roman Forum - King Emmanuel II monument - Trevi - Pantheon - Piazza Navona - so I know this is all doable on foot, although it does take time.
I did an Enjoy Rome walk one afternoon that went something like Colosseum - Roman Forum - King Emmanuel II monument - Trevi - Pantheon - Piazza Navona - so I know this is all doable on foot, although it does take time.
Dec 22nd, 2007, 01:58 PM
#166
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butnot, you've already got excellent advice by Zerlina... Via Rasella is the typical dark quiet residential street, so not quite what butnot is looking for, and while I agree that it's nice there, WillTravel, I advise against the location of that precise B&B - on the corner of Via del Traforo, with excessive traffic noise.
Of the two options in Trastevere, the S. Francesco hotel is in my favourite area, but as Zerlina said, you'll find it convenient to take the tram from there - but then, the tram is Rome's best public means of transport, with no time of waiting, and carrying you to Largo Argentina (the "center's center"
in no time.
Vicolo del Piede is in Trastevere's busiest nightlife area, so certainly lively, but a certain level of noise will be inevitable, I guess (without remembering this precise lane).
Via dei Tre Archi is what I'd guess will be best for you, considering what you're looking for. A very elegant nightlife in the neighbourhood, but the lane itself should be one or two blocks north of it.
Of the two options in Trastevere, the S. Francesco hotel is in my favourite area, but as Zerlina said, you'll find it convenient to take the tram from there - but then, the tram is Rome's best public means of transport, with no time of waiting, and carrying you to Largo Argentina (the "center's center"
in no time.Vicolo del Piede is in Trastevere's busiest nightlife area, so certainly lively, but a certain level of noise will be inevitable, I guess (without remembering this precise lane).
Via dei Tre Archi is what I'd guess will be best for you, considering what you're looking for. A very elegant nightlife in the neighbourhood, but the lane itself should be one or two blocks north of it.
Dec 23rd, 2007, 08:53 AM
#167
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Thanks for the responses so far. I'd love to continue hearing from others on these areas (or other recommended areas - but then I'd need specific hotel/B&B recommendations too).
To Franco - I'm not sure what you mean by "elegant nightlife". I'm interested in casual strolling, to a local restaurant or cafe (reasonably priced would be nice), surrounded preferably by many local people rather than by many other tourists. Reaching back into my memory of times past, my favorite night in Paris more than 30 years ago was wandering on the Left Bank with all the workers and students, and eating at a place filled with locals sitting together, conversations flowing across tables. We chose our food by asking about dishes we saw others eating. We were probably the only Americans in the place. To me, 'elegant nightlife' is dressing up for a fancy dinner, going out to 'be seen' and to see others equally decked out, maybe doing a nightclub scene. That is definitely not for me. I wouldn't mind a jazz club - but that is for another thread.
To Franco - I'm not sure what you mean by "elegant nightlife". I'm interested in casual strolling, to a local restaurant or cafe (reasonably priced would be nice), surrounded preferably by many local people rather than by many other tourists. Reaching back into my memory of times past, my favorite night in Paris more than 30 years ago was wandering on the Left Bank with all the workers and students, and eating at a place filled with locals sitting together, conversations flowing across tables. We chose our food by asking about dishes we saw others eating. We were probably the only Americans in the place. To me, 'elegant nightlife' is dressing up for a fancy dinner, going out to 'be seen' and to see others equally decked out, maybe doing a nightclub scene. That is definitely not for me. I wouldn't mind a jazz club - but that is for another thread.
Dec 24th, 2007, 04:06 AM
#168
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butnot - a mixed answer as to the Piazza Navona area: casual strolling yes, that's how Italians understand nightlife; but also going out to be seen and to see others, above all in that neighbourhood, which is - as I said - certainly an elegant one; no workers! Being the only Americans will prove impossible anywhere in Rome, but then, Rome is so very large that other tourists seem disseminated and are almost never disturbing (Vatican and surroundings aside) - Romans will always be the majority.
But I'm afraid what you're looking for is not to be had: central Rome is an incredibly expensive area for housing, there are simply no workers, students and so on left throughout the center (and this includes Trastevere, of course). Their last bastions (where they are being gradually squeezed out as well, though) are the San Lorenzo and Testaccio quarters, where the kind of nightlife you're looking for is to be found - but both are FAR from the real center, with much travelling on public transport to and from most sights involved, which means loosing hours every day (see above my report on my recent stay in S. Lorenzo!). But Testaccio, above all, is certainly a wonderful and very likeable popular quarter.
But I'm afraid what you're looking for is not to be had: central Rome is an incredibly expensive area for housing, there are simply no workers, students and so on left throughout the center (and this includes Trastevere, of course). Their last bastions (where they are being gradually squeezed out as well, though) are the San Lorenzo and Testaccio quarters, where the kind of nightlife you're looking for is to be found - but both are FAR from the real center, with much travelling on public transport to and from most sights involved, which means loosing hours every day (see above my report on my recent stay in S. Lorenzo!). But Testaccio, above all, is certainly a wonderful and very likeable popular quarter.
Dec 24th, 2007, 04:40 AM
#169
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butnotmpt--If it makes you feel any better, my son and I did see a student demonstration at the Piazza Navonna during one of our evening strolls there. You will see lots of teenagers/young adults at Campo de' Fiori on weekend evenings
Here is a link to a recent articl on Testaccio for more detail about that neighborhood
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servl...ialTravel/home
Here is a link to a recent articl on Testaccio for more detail about that neighborhood
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servl...ialTravel/home
Dec 24th, 2007, 12:19 PM
#170
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Hi Franco,
Thank you for being such a wonderful resource on this website!
I am wondering which location you like better...
via de Mercede, half block east of via del Corso
(hotel Parlemento)
via dei greci at via del corso
(hotel Mozart)
Vicolo del Leonetto , a few blocks north of Piazza Navona
(hotel due torri)
Merry Christmas!
Dina
Thank you for being such a wonderful resource on this website!
I am wondering which location you like better...
via de Mercede, half block east of via del Corso
(hotel Parlemento)
via dei greci at via del corso
(hotel Mozart)
Vicolo del Leonetto , a few blocks north of Piazza Navona
(hotel due torri)
Merry Christmas!
Dina
Dec 27th, 2007, 09:48 AM
#171
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Dina, the two near Via del Corso are in the same neighbourhood - there's all about (rather elegant) shopping there; a pedestrian area, which is certainly an advantage. Of these two, I'd prefer Via della Mercede, for my usual public transportation reasons - nearby Pza. S. Silvestro is one of the main bus stops, with a plethora of lines going into every direction of the city from there.
But since I'm not a shopping buff (on the contrary), I'd certainly prefer Vicolo del Leonetto over the Corso area, a very nice old neighbourhood. Bus connections, as always along the Tiber, are excellent - even though the next bridge (to reach the opposite bank, where busses go south) is quite a walk, but you are lucky since just around the corner from that hotel, there is Via di Monte Brianzo, the one and only lane on that bank of the Tiber where bus lines are passing toward south (Largo Argentina - Pza. Venezia and so on).
But since I'm not a shopping buff (on the contrary), I'd certainly prefer Vicolo del Leonetto over the Corso area, a very nice old neighbourhood. Bus connections, as always along the Tiber, are excellent - even though the next bridge (to reach the opposite bank, where busses go south) is quite a walk, but you are lucky since just around the corner from that hotel, there is Via di Monte Brianzo, the one and only lane on that bank of the Tiber where bus lines are passing toward south (Largo Argentina - Pza. Venezia and so on).
Dec 27th, 2007, 10:20 AM
#172
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Thanks so much Franco.
I probably should have mentioned that we do like to walk everywhere (we want a central location so we can do that instead of using public transportation)
and my daughter and i do enjoy a bit of shopping.
dina
I probably should have mentioned that we do like to walk everywhere (we want a central location so we can do that instead of using public transportation)
and my daughter and i do enjoy a bit of shopping.
dina
Dec 27th, 2007, 10:41 AM
#173
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Well, so you may want to choose the Corso area. Via della Mercede, however, is more central also for walking than Via dei Greci - and you'll see that you simply need public busses in Rome, the city being simply too large to walk everywhere.
Dec 30th, 2007, 05:05 PM
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Franco and other friends,
My husband and I will be unexpectedly visiting Rome in the middle of January for 3 days. Does the weather/season effect which area you recommend for staying or visiting? I assume it can be cold and wet, and may discourage walking? Obviously less priority to gardens and outdoors vistas and more on interiors? Does this effect at all your preference for Trastevere? Will the Piazza Bavona or Pantheon area be less busy/noisy than in other seasons?
My husband and I will be unexpectedly visiting Rome in the middle of January for 3 days. Does the weather/season effect which area you recommend for staying or visiting? I assume it can be cold and wet, and may discourage walking? Obviously less priority to gardens and outdoors vistas and more on interiors? Does this effect at all your preference for Trastevere? Will the Piazza Bavona or Pantheon area be less busy/noisy than in other seasons?
Dec 31st, 2007, 03:42 AM
#177
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Well, nkopp, Rome's weather is not that bad in winter. Look here for the current forecast in English: http://www.weather.com/outlook/trave...calUndeclared; strangely, that same site's German version http://de.weather.com/weather/local/ITXX0067 is way better, offering a ten-days-forecast (a Celsius-Fahrenheit calculator is on top of the site, enter the Celsius figure and click "Rechnen".
And no, weather or season wouldn't change my preferences; the reason why I like Trastevere is not the gardens. Yes, it may be more tranquil around Pantheon and Piazza Navona; but then, this is not a busy area because of tourists alone - the Romans alone are sufficient to make it busy.
Happy New Year!
.And no, weather or season wouldn't change my preferences; the reason why I like Trastevere is not the gardens. Yes, it may be more tranquil around Pantheon and Piazza Navona; but then, this is not a busy area because of tourists alone - the Romans alone are sufficient to make it busy.
Happy New Year!
Jan 6th, 2008, 12:02 PM
#178
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Franco:
<i> On a sidenote, did you eat at Angoletto?</i>
No. Though it was directly below our balcony, we were seldom back at the apartment at dinner time. It smelled fabulous, though!
If you're dining in Rome on a Thursday night, go to Armando al Pantheon for their once-a-week special: Coda al Vaccinarra (Coda, for short). Oxtails. Doesn't sound like much, but it was BY FAR the best meal of the trip....Mmmmm.
Cul de Sac was good, too. Nice atmosphere. Wonderful pate sampler to start and it just got better from there.
Fiametta was as good as I'd remembered. We ate there twice. On the first night a bishop at the next table noted we were Americans and asked "How did you happen upon the best restaurant in Rome?!". After I explained we discovered it on our last trip, he said we were very lucky (but to keep it secret. LOL!). Great food, nice casual atmosphere.
<i> On a sidenote, did you eat at Angoletto?</i>
No. Though it was directly below our balcony, we were seldom back at the apartment at dinner time. It smelled fabulous, though!
If you're dining in Rome on a Thursday night, go to Armando al Pantheon for their once-a-week special: Coda al Vaccinarra (Coda, for short). Oxtails. Doesn't sound like much, but it was BY FAR the best meal of the trip....Mmmmm.
Cul de Sac was good, too. Nice atmosphere. Wonderful pate sampler to start and it just got better from there.
Fiametta was as good as I'd remembered. We ate there twice. On the first night a bishop at the next table noted we were Americans and asked "How did you happen upon the best restaurant in Rome?!". After I explained we discovered it on our last trip, he said we were very lucky (but to keep it secret. LOL!). Great food, nice casual atmosphere.
Jan 8th, 2008, 06:31 AM
#179
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Thanks, Jeanne. Oxtail is actually a favourite of mine, though I'm usually preparing it myself - have a look at the appropriate "Franco's favourite Roman food" thread, then you can do it as well!
Jan 8th, 2008, 01:32 PM
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I have read this thread several times and a bit confused. What general location would you suggest (we plan to rent an apt) for a party of 4-5 (2-3 adults, 2 recent high school grads) traveling to Rome in June for the first time ever. For a first trip, we want a good location both for getting around and for local flavor--sights, food, sounds. We will be in Rome 6 nights, no car. We want not too quiet, busy, bustling but not too noisy. Suggestions?
