Flaming Zambuca Wings! Its Bologna!
May 13th, 2006, 04:18 AM
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Flaming Zambuca Wings! Its Bologna!
Just had a WONDERFUL long weekend in Bologna – what a lovely city. Food to die for, lovely people, a bit of culture too – here’s a little trip report, I’ll split it into sections.
When to go : I’d realised from research that Bologna has a lot of trade fairs. This was the website I used to check when they were, so as not to clash – hotel prices are jacked up a bit I think when they are on. http://www.bolognafiere.it/eng/calendario_2006.asp
The Hotel : Albergo Drapperie, on the Via delle Drapperie, just off the Piazza Maggiore. This was a nice little hotel – a bit basic, but the room had everything we needed (nice comfy bed, hot shower, mini bar (I think its always nice to have a little fridge to be able to bung in some water and juice), and was a decent size. Didn’t have breakfast in the hotel at all so can’t comment about that, but the best thing was the location. Right off the main square, couldn’t be beaten. However… one drawback, and I guess you could find this with any hotel – it was noisy due to the building next door being renovated. No need for an early alarm call…I think we now know the Italian for “pass the hammer Guiseppe”. So if you are going to this hotel in the next few months, ask which room you will be in. We were in Room 23 which was adjacent to the building site. However they didn’t work Saturday or Sunday so that gave us a bit of a lay in! It’s not expensive tho, 75 euros per room per night. Here’s a link to the webiste. www.albergodrapperie.com
When to go : I’d realised from research that Bologna has a lot of trade fairs. This was the website I used to check when they were, so as not to clash – hotel prices are jacked up a bit I think when they are on. http://www.bolognafiere.it/eng/calendario_2006.asp
The Hotel : Albergo Drapperie, on the Via delle Drapperie, just off the Piazza Maggiore. This was a nice little hotel – a bit basic, but the room had everything we needed (nice comfy bed, hot shower, mini bar (I think its always nice to have a little fridge to be able to bung in some water and juice), and was a decent size. Didn’t have breakfast in the hotel at all so can’t comment about that, but the best thing was the location. Right off the main square, couldn’t be beaten. However… one drawback, and I guess you could find this with any hotel – it was noisy due to the building next door being renovated. No need for an early alarm call…I think we now know the Italian for “pass the hammer Guiseppe”. So if you are going to this hotel in the next few months, ask which room you will be in. We were in Room 23 which was adjacent to the building site. However they didn’t work Saturday or Sunday so that gave us a bit of a lay in! It’s not expensive tho, 75 euros per room per night. Here’s a link to the webiste. www.albergodrapperie.com
May 13th, 2006, 04:19 AM
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The Town : A great town to get around, everything seems to be walking distance – takes about 15/20 minutes to get up to the railway station from Piazza Maggiore. Buses seemed to be frequent but we didn’t use them at all. Of course it’s a beautiful city to look at but – what is it about Italy? Graffiti everywhere. I remember going to Milan a few years ago and being shocked at the amount of graffiti (and I live in South London and work in Central London, so I’m used to dirt and rubbish on the streets and graffiti…) but a beautiful town with such beautiful buildings, with such a fantastic history… all daubed with graffiti. Such a shame. I know some people regard it as “street art” but I am afraid I am not one of them. Nice to have the porticos to walk under to shelter from the rain (of which there was lots unfortunately – and our thanks have to go to our African chums who seem to hang out on the street corners of every Continental city these days, flogging stuff – this time umbrellas!)
I wont list every building we saw etc etc, lots of other places to research all that (incidentally the guide I took was an Insight guide on Bologna, good handbag size, nothing too chunky but gives you all the info you need). However, the two towers are a must, one of which does seem to lean quite alarmingly, you can get up to the top of the tallest one but we didn’t (I have a phobia about spiral staircases and my partner is just too darn lazy…). Off to the north west (? I think! My geography is a bit hazy – to the left anyway as you stand in front of the towers) is the old ghetto area and that’s an interesting area to stroll around, full of atmosphere. Otherwise we just strolled around the town and ducked and dived down side streets as they took our fancy – which is our usual habit, we never really have any fixed itinerary or follow any set route, we have some vague plans and then just go with the flow.
I wont list every building we saw etc etc, lots of other places to research all that (incidentally the guide I took was an Insight guide on Bologna, good handbag size, nothing too chunky but gives you all the info you need). However, the two towers are a must, one of which does seem to lean quite alarmingly, you can get up to the top of the tallest one but we didn’t (I have a phobia about spiral staircases and my partner is just too darn lazy…). Off to the north west (? I think! My geography is a bit hazy – to the left anyway as you stand in front of the towers) is the old ghetto area and that’s an interesting area to stroll around, full of atmosphere. Otherwise we just strolled around the town and ducked and dived down side streets as they took our fancy – which is our usual habit, we never really have any fixed itinerary or follow any set route, we have some vague plans and then just go with the flow.
May 13th, 2006, 04:21 AM
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A trip out : Ravenna – We were planning a couple of days out from Bologna but for various reasons (more of which below) only did this one, which was well worth it. About 1 hour 45 mins on the train, 4.80 euros each way. The Insight guide has a map of Ravenna in it so we found our way around using that. Incidentally this was the only day that it didn’t rain (I am notorious for getting bad weather on holidays – friends laugh that I could go to Greece in August they’d have unseasonable snow…). So again, had a bit of a wander around, a nice lunch in one of the squares, and then – hit the mosaics. They are fantastic. I am not hugely into this sort of thing, being more interested in social history, but I don’t think anyone could fail to be amazed at the scale, and artistry, I suppose for any better expression. Amazing, and if you are in this area, it’s a must-see. We saw Sant Apollinare Nuovo, and an archaeological exhibition “Santi Banchieri Re” (saints, bankers, kings) which includes entrance to a fairly new excavation at Domus di Tappetti di Pietra, which is within a 14th Century (I think) church.
May 13th, 2006, 04:21 AM
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The Food… well what can I say. Food to die for. This was one of the main reasons for coming to Bologna, both of us liking a nice munch, and my partner very much into cooking. All I can say is that its reputation is more than deserved. Our hotel was in the same street as Tamburini, this is an absolute must for any visitor, - it’s a fantastic shop as well as a self service café. Each time we left the hotel our noses were pressed up against the window. The area around Via delle Drapperie is full of stalls selling the most wonderful produce, and there’s a great covered market off the Via Ugo Bassi. We bought so much stuff to bring back we had to buy another little carry on suitcase. Oils, balsamics, cheeses, porcini, stuffed pastas, even brought back some baby artichokes and zucchini (think we got a bit carried away there… I did draw the line at my nearest and dearest eyeing up Sicilian tomatoes… there is a limit as to what you can put in a suitcase… think we’d have arrived home with a suitcase full of passata…).
I have to say, we grazed so much and nibbled and munched our way through the whole weekend that to be honest I don’t think that I was ever really hungry. But the food is soooo irresistible! I was really taken aback by the range of canapés (better than any tapas you’d get in Northern Spain) that is available gratis in most of the bars – you can (ahem from experience) really ruin your appetite for dinner if you are not careful. And the restaurants – we didn’t have a bad meal the whole time we were there, from just a couple of paninis and coffee for breakfast, to the just have to have one gelati, to small plates of pasta or salad at lunchtime, ooooh just one more small gelati then, and onto dinner in the evening – it all tasted spectacular. (Incidentally, we roared laughing at the site of queues in the ubiquitous MacDonalds (they get everywhere don’t they). Who goes to Bologna and has a MacDonalds? Well quite a few apparently, no accounting for taste as they say).
By far and away the best restaurant was Trattoria Gianne, on Via Clavature, very handily just around the corner from the hotel. Had a beautiful meal here, mixed antipasti, veal that was soooo tender, some spinach that I am still drooling over (probably cooked with half a pound of butter…). Early booking recommended as we tried to get in a second time on the Saturday night and couldn’t. Other than that, all I could say is just bounce around town and I don’t think you could be disappointed anywhere. Oh yes, and had the most amazing ice cream dessert – ice cream piled high in a dish with two wafers stuck out at each sides and a sugar lump that had been soaked in zambuca and set alight balanced on each. Hence the flaming zambuca wings! A very sweet waiter tried to tell me in broken English to blow the flames out before eating. Did I look that drunk? Hmmmm don’t answer that! Which incidentally brings me to booze – ha! I do like a little glass of vino, (or two), I have to say. Just asking for vino della cassa (or should that be casa?) always brought something more than drinkable but I did take a liking to the Venetian sauvignons that we had on a couple of nights. A bit stronger in flavour than the French but not as in your face as some of the Kiwis can be.
Quite a buzzy night life here to, lots of bars to trawl around (can’t speak for nightclubs, I’m usually tucked up into my bed by midnight before I turn into a pumpkin). But two bars that we look a shine to were what we called the Z bar – Café Zanarini on Piazza Galvani, and the Nu Lounge Bar, both quite lively. I hesitate to say trendy as if they were we wouldn’t be allowed in but I hope you get my drift.
I have to say, we grazed so much and nibbled and munched our way through the whole weekend that to be honest I don’t think that I was ever really hungry. But the food is soooo irresistible! I was really taken aback by the range of canapés (better than any tapas you’d get in Northern Spain) that is available gratis in most of the bars – you can (ahem from experience) really ruin your appetite for dinner if you are not careful. And the restaurants – we didn’t have a bad meal the whole time we were there, from just a couple of paninis and coffee for breakfast, to the just have to have one gelati, to small plates of pasta or salad at lunchtime, ooooh just one more small gelati then, and onto dinner in the evening – it all tasted spectacular. (Incidentally, we roared laughing at the site of queues in the ubiquitous MacDonalds (they get everywhere don’t they). Who goes to Bologna and has a MacDonalds? Well quite a few apparently, no accounting for taste as they say).
By far and away the best restaurant was Trattoria Gianne, on Via Clavature, very handily just around the corner from the hotel. Had a beautiful meal here, mixed antipasti, veal that was soooo tender, some spinach that I am still drooling over (probably cooked with half a pound of butter…). Early booking recommended as we tried to get in a second time on the Saturday night and couldn’t. Other than that, all I could say is just bounce around town and I don’t think you could be disappointed anywhere. Oh yes, and had the most amazing ice cream dessert – ice cream piled high in a dish with two wafers stuck out at each sides and a sugar lump that had been soaked in zambuca and set alight balanced on each. Hence the flaming zambuca wings! A very sweet waiter tried to tell me in broken English to blow the flames out before eating. Did I look that drunk? Hmmmm don’t answer that! Which incidentally brings me to booze – ha! I do like a little glass of vino, (or two), I have to say. Just asking for vino della cassa (or should that be casa?) always brought something more than drinkable but I did take a liking to the Venetian sauvignons that we had on a couple of nights. A bit stronger in flavour than the French but not as in your face as some of the Kiwis can be.
Quite a buzzy night life here to, lots of bars to trawl around (can’t speak for nightclubs, I’m usually tucked up into my bed by midnight before I turn into a pumpkin). But two bars that we look a shine to were what we called the Z bar – Café Zanarini on Piazza Galvani, and the Nu Lounge Bar, both quite lively. I hesitate to say trendy as if they were we wouldn’t be allowed in but I hope you get my drift.
May 13th, 2006, 04:22 AM
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The Shopping : Ladies – bring your credit cards, there’s shoes out there to be bought. Also handbags. Enough said. Also lots of linen, and generally some great clothes at cheaper prices than you’d pay in London (not difficult I know). I particularly liked Extyn on Ugo Bassi, some lovely bits and pieces in here.
The Journey : The less said about the outward journey the better. Good old BA screws up again with a fault on its aeroplane. (I’m beginning to wonder just how many old wrecks they have flying around up there in the sky). We must of course be grateful and give thanks for the fact that we are still alive but to cut a long story short the air brakes weren’t working – we circled around above Bologna for an hour and a half to lose to some fuel, to make the plane lighter when it landed (thus really doing our bit for the environment), then diverted to Milan and then bundled onto coaches for a three hour trip back down to Bolonga. So instead of getting into our hotel at what we reckoned would be 1pm, we got there at 7pm. So we totally lost the first afternoon, which was a real shame. (That first glass of vino that night really didn’t touch the sides I can tell you!). So instead of having a little wander around and getting our bearings that first afternoon, we just fell into the nearest bar . That’s why we didn’t do another trip out of Bologna really, didn’t really have enough time. Journey back was good tho – everything on time, no probs, so it can be done…
Well… that’s it really! Happy to answer any questions but basically – if you’re from UK, you can’t beat it for a weekend away (1 hour 40 mins from Gatwick) and if you’re touring around Italy, put it on the itinerary. And hope you get some flaming zamubca wings!!
The Journey : The less said about the outward journey the better. Good old BA screws up again with a fault on its aeroplane. (I’m beginning to wonder just how many old wrecks they have flying around up there in the sky). We must of course be grateful and give thanks for the fact that we are still alive but to cut a long story short the air brakes weren’t working – we circled around above Bologna for an hour and a half to lose to some fuel, to make the plane lighter when it landed (thus really doing our bit for the environment), then diverted to Milan and then bundled onto coaches for a three hour trip back down to Bolonga. So instead of getting into our hotel at what we reckoned would be 1pm, we got there at 7pm. So we totally lost the first afternoon, which was a real shame. (That first glass of vino that night really didn’t touch the sides I can tell you!). So instead of having a little wander around and getting our bearings that first afternoon, we just fell into the nearest bar . That’s why we didn’t do another trip out of Bologna really, didn’t really have enough time. Journey back was good tho – everything on time, no probs, so it can be done…
Well… that’s it really! Happy to answer any questions but basically – if you’re from UK, you can’t beat it for a weekend away (1 hour 40 mins from Gatwick) and if you’re touring around Italy, put it on the itinerary. And hope you get some flaming zamubca wings!!
May 13th, 2006, 05:39 AM
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Thanks for the report - I'm thinking about Bologna this fall, mainly as a gastronomic week of eating with various days trips. Been mulling either 3 days in Milan, 4 in Bologna or maybe just be based in Bologna for thw whole week or 4 in Bologna, 3 in Parma or even 3 in Milan, 4 in Torino and bagging Bologna for another trip. I'm sure I could find a cooking class for one day, day trip to Florence, 3 days for soaking in Bolognese - maybe a day trip to Ravenna and a day trip to Parma. Could you be based in Bologna for a whole week? Once again - thanks for the report.
May 13th, 2006, 10:09 AM
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ali57, what a charming, informative and fun trip report!! I agree with you about Bologna, the food, the city is fantastic.
I have bookmarked the hotel website. Their rates are very good as is the location. I have never stayed even overnight in Bologna, due to those pesty tradeshows, lol. That is something I really want to do..at least for three nights. But all of my day trips to Bologna have been very special. And yes indeed, bring your credit card, lol. Isn't the merchandise tantalizing.
I am glad you were able to visit Ravenna, another beautiful city. Thanks for sharing your trip! BTW your sense of humor had me giggling, very enjoyable.
I have bookmarked the hotel website. Their rates are very good as is the location. I have never stayed even overnight in Bologna, due to those pesty tradeshows, lol. That is something I really want to do..at least for three nights. But all of my day trips to Bologna have been very special. And yes indeed, bring your credit card, lol. Isn't the merchandise tantalizing.
I am glad you were able to visit Ravenna, another beautiful city. Thanks for sharing your trip! BTW your sense of humor had me giggling, very enjoyable.
May 14th, 2006, 02:42 AM
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Carta Pisana - I reckon you could do a week in Bologna but then that's because my long weekend just didn't feel long enough!! It's a smashing base for day trips - trains go just about everywhere in the region - you wouldnt want to say in Bologna for a few nights and then go onto Parma for a few nights, in my view, Parma's just an hour away on the train. Modena's half an hour, even Venice would be do-able if you got up early(ish) - thats 1 hr 45 mins apparently. http://www.trenitalia.com/ is the traintable website and nice and user friendly. Bologna's definitely on my list of places to re-visit, simply because we didn't do those side trips, only got to Ravenna. I guess it depends how much time you'd spend travelling between towns, finding hotel, checking in, unpacking a few bits, etc - personally I'd prefer to be based in one town when the places you're mentioning are reasonably close. Couldn't say how long it would take to drive tho.
May 14th, 2006, 03:38 AM
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Thank you for this - Bologna is now on my list of places to visit for when I have just a few days to spare, and following an article on Bologna in a newspaper last week I have started a folder with your report included.
May 14th, 2006, 06:51 AM
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ali57 - thanks for the insights. I picked up Cadogan's guide to Bologna and surrounding environs yesterday. Parma sounds great - being that it's only an hour away makes it an easy day trip. I prefer to pack and unpack as few times as possible. Once again, thanks.
Feb 11th, 2007, 04:06 AM
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Your report is great. We are going to Bologna in May and have a few questions for u. We filled out the form for Albergo Drapperie more than a month ago but have not heard back. Would u stay there again and is there a particular room we might ask for? I think I will try a fax this time. Also, we are spending 4 nights in Venice and from there will go to Ravenna to see the mosaics--and also heard it is a pretty town. Would you allocate 2 nights there or is that too much? Many thanks for your help.
Take care,
Robyn France
Take care,
Robyn France
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