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Bologna update + Ravenna

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Old Oct 2nd, 2010 | 02:22 AM
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Bologna update + Ravenna

Have tried some more restaurants since last posting so thought I would give an update. Also, just as an FYI, I have decided gorgonzola dolce with gnocchi is a truly spectacular combination (I think anything with that cheese would be great!).

The places I have tried recently are:

Serghei
da Nello al Montegrappa)
Olivo
Anna Maria
Trattoria Belle Arti
Baba Masala
Regina Margherita (S. Stefano)
Clorifilla (Strada Maggiore)

Before going to the restaurants, a few comments about the markets here. They are just great. I love roaming around the ones around Via Via Claventure but am spoiled since I walk past the array of great stands around Piazza Aldrovandi and my special one on Via San Leonardo on my way to work. Locals stay away from Tamburini and feel it is living on its past reputation and recommend Simoni or Bruno and Franco on Via Oberdan (it is just a joy to walk into that place!).

There is a super pasta place (Buon Gusto) also around Piazza Aldrovandi and I have loved their tortelloni alla zucca (with butter and sage as a sauce), the tortellni (even made my own brodo since that is THE way tortellini are supposed to be eaten here in Bologna) and several other wonderful choices.

SERGHEI--Loved it. Very small, run by mother, son and daughter, cozy warm ambiance. The pastas as the primi were superb--a tagliatelle a ragu, gramigna (which has become one of my favorite pastas) with ground sausage, tortelloni alla zucca. For secondi, the roast pork was ok, but the stuffed zucchini and guinea fowl were excellent. The marscapone dessert is also worth noting!

DA NELLO-an excellent lunch--our choices were lasagne verde, poleta with mushrooms and am amazing sliced mushroom salad

OLIVO-at Piazza Aldrovandi, for lunch---totally not like the typical Bolognese dark cramped type place, more contemporary, chaotic. Had something called foglia d'olivo con gorgonzola, sedano and walnuts (which was that great sweet gorgonzola on a narrow leaf like pasta with thin sliced celeray and walnuts). Delicious and great bread too which is not usually the case even though you pay for it with the cover charge.

ANNA MARIA-the primis of the pastas were very good---I had an excellent paparadelle with porcini that was outstanding but the secondi sliced veal was extremely fatty and, for the price, was not worth it. I wouldn't go back in spite of loving that pasta---too many other places to try that also do great pasta---after all, this is Bologna!

BELLE ARTI-people go for their pizza, I went for lunch and had a very good piece of grilled fish, something I can't get in every place in Bologna. It was good but took a very long time and, with grilled vegetables and the euro now, came to about $27 with just water, an ok choice.

BABA MASALA-near work, change of pace, reasonable and friendly Indian restaurant that does a nice job--on Via Broccaindosso.

REGINA MARGHERITA-good pizza, good price, other choices too (looked like they might do fish and other seafood) and right around the corner from me so will be trying more things there.

CLORIFILLA-vegetarian (and fish) restaurant on Strada Maggiore near Broccaindosso. Terrific daily combo plates. Fresh tasting, intersting combos--been there for several lunches and loved each one---again, another non-Bologneses heavy food option.

MANY, many more options yet to try!

Ravenna for the day was amazing and the mosaics far exceeded my expectations. A must do if you are in this area and very easy to get to on the train. Make sure to go to the Museo which is not in every book but has a chapel area with gorgeous frescos. Great lunch at Ca' d Ven which is in every guidebook but merits the attention.

Bologna continues to be a wonderful place to live. If coming, do take the 2 hour walking tour leaving from either Piazza Maggiore or Nettuno---you can get information about it from the tourist office right in Piazza Maggiore. They speak English and are a wonderful resource for anything in Bologna or surrounding areas, bus schedules, programs, etc.
kathrynj is offline  
Old Oct 2nd, 2010 | 02:51 AM
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Thanks Kathy, this is wonderful. Now I have even more restaurants to try on my next visit. I just came back from 5 fabulous days in Bologna. I loved my lunch at Anna Maria but I had only the pasta, no secondi since I don't eat meat. Both Buon Gusto and Clorifilla sound great!
What a fantastic city!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010 | 04:50 AM
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Keren,
Glad you enjoyed your time in Bologna. I have found it to be an amazing city that I had never visited before on my many prior trips to Italy. Each day I seem to find more to love about it!
Kathy
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010 | 07:57 AM
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Glad to see you made it to Ravenna-- I just spent a week there at a mosaic course; my Ca de Vin experience wasn't as good as yours but couldn't agree more about the mosaics. Wish I had had time in Bologna.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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If you haven't tried Teresina, you might want to check it out, especially if you are a fish lover. It is not cheap.

If you haven't stopped by Le Stanze (in the Borgo San Pietro) for an apertivi or Zanarini (in the Piazza Galvani) for coffee and whathaveyou, both have their charms. Le Stanze has terrific and generous stuzzachini (I especially like their tiny spicy tuna sandwiches).

I also think the morning coffee at the Roxy bar near the due Torri is good (and I like their salty cornetti).

Do you know Osteria del Sole? (Vicolo Ranocchi 1d) You can shop at the gastronomie and bring your own food there, so long as you buy a glass of wine.

http://tasteforbologna.blogspot.com/...-del-sole.html

Have a great time in pumpkin season.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions, Zeppole. I walked by and poked in at Zanarini yesteday and it looked great. Teresina has been recommended by a colleague so I do plan to go there and yes, have heard about Osteria del SOle and plan on going when some friends visit.

Haven't been in Italy in the fall on my other visits so this is a treat. Last night they were handing out samples of roast chestuts on Via Orefici for the holiday tomorrow (festivities started yesterday and the streets were packed last night with music everywhere---just great).
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010 | 07:13 AM
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I ate at Teresina 4 years ago, I liked it a lot, plus it was a Sunday and Teresina was open when many other restaurants were not.
I just loved the two meals I had at Cesari, thank you to Ekscrunchy for recommending it.
http://www.da-cesari.it/

Also enjoyed Trattoria dal Biassanot.
http://www.dalbiassanot.it/

This was my second visit to Bologna, I also visited Venice for the first time and Rome for the third.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010 | 07:56 AM
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Zeppole and Keren,

Had lunch today at Teresina. Started with the Piccoloa eggplant parmigan (very good) and had the spaghetti alla sarde---the Sicilian style with sardines, raisins, pine nuts and saffron. It is a dish I will absolutely have there again--a terrific combination of flavors.

Not been to Cesari but will check it out as well as the other mentioned---stopped at Zanarini for coffee this morning. Off to Perugia next weekend.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010 | 08:06 AM
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Super!
Would love to read your impressions from Perugia - one of my future destinations.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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Glad you enjoyed Teresina!

There is another good fishy trattoria in bologna, Scacco Matto, at Via Broccaindosso, 63, It too is southern Italian in style (and alas no cheaper than Teresina). You might want to put it on your list.

As for Perugia, Sandri's on the Corso Vanucci is inescapable and wonderful. The street and bar food can be very good In the university town of Perugia. But above all make time to see the national Gallery of Umbrian Art. It is one of the very finest museums of painting in Italy, and not large. Perugia is an incredibly underrated destination in Italy, for culture, food and wine. (If you see Sagrantino wine on a menu, go for it, with robust food)

Fresh chocolate in Perugia has no equal in the rest of Italy, as far as I am concerned. There are good shops all over. Find your own favorite.

Back in Bologna, if you haven't already, I hope you make time to see the breathtaking terra cotta statues in Santa Maria delle Vita (in the via Claveture) -- it just takes a few minutes -- and the Oratorio di Santa Cecilia

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/em...-santa-cecilia
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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Sorry -- my illiteracy:

Santa Maria dellA Vita (via Claveture, 10)
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Old Oct 3rd, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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About Santa Maria delle Vita, there are two sets of statues: The one by Niccolò dell'Arca is in the chapel to the right of the altar. The other one, by Alfonso Lombardi, is actually at the Church's museum, which is next door. I first discovered the dell'Arca set and then, only by accident, bumped into the museum and the Lombardi work. Both are well worth a visit.
I second the recommendation of the Oratrio di Santa Cecilia, I could spend an hour staring at the frescos. But bring 50ct coins; I ran out and had to view it in relative darkness. Not the same experience.
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Old Oct 4th, 2010 | 05:55 AM
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Kathy,

I am lapping up your Bologna restaurnat info! Thank you so much for posting the details. I'm getting exicted for my mid-November trip to Bologna and will add the restaurants you've mentioned here to my ever-increasing list of possible choices!

If you are availabe for a mini get together in Bologna sometime between Nov. 12-20 let me know. Maybe we could meet-up for a class of wine or a coffee.
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Old Oct 4th, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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Hey there Low Country,

I was just reading an old post of yours today and wondering how you were! Most likely I'll add some more places before you get here.

Yes--am in town that whole period and it would be great fun to get together.

Keren and Zeppole---thanks for the wonderful suggestions for both Bologna and Perugia.

I was thinking of going to Spello fo a few hours during the day on Saturday to get the feel of a smaller Umbrian hill town but may re-think that with all to do in Perugia. My only thought was that I am in a univeristy city now but have not been in some smaller town settings (had thought of staying in Spello but decided to opt for Perugia). Thoghts?

Thanks----Kathy
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Old Oct 6th, 2010 | 04:51 AM
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Kathy,

Would love to coordinate getting together. We can get in touch closer to my arrival.
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Old Oct 6th, 2010 | 04:55 AM
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kathrynj, My thoughts regarding Spello are that if I felt restless in Perugia, I would probably opt for a less touristed small town. I might try Corciano

http://www.bellaumbria.net/Corciano/home_eng.htm

http://www.borghitalia.it/html/borgo...dice_borgo=512

I've never been to Corciano, and I've not researched other possibilities, so I can't personally recommend it -- and I've nothing against Spello, which is perfectly well-preserved. But I tend to think small towns that are not completely given over to tourism -- and that's about all that goes on in Spello these, plus some vacation homes -- are more interesting as small town experiences. I believe Corciano hosts some of the Eurochocolate events (or tries to ride the wave), so it may not be pristine.

I would also say that if you are indifferent to a tourist scene, and you are really keen for Italian art, Assisi is easily reached from Perugia -- but this week has seen the actual feast of St Francis, which makes the town even more of a mob scene than it usually is, and some of those crowds might still be lingering.

If you don't make it a small town during your visit to Perugia, consider a visit to Brisighella from Bologna.

http://goitaly.about.com/od/brisighe...risighella.htm
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