Bologna trip report (Nov. 4 - 12)
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:11 AM
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Bologna trip report (Nov. 4 - 12)
Was in Bologna from Nov. 4th to the 12th. This was a really great vacation - slept late, perfect weather, drank and ate a little too much, day tripped to Modena, Parma and Ravenna, really forgot about work. For me, Bologna gets closer to the Italian essence compared to tourist oriented cities like Rome, Venice and the Italian Riviera.
flight:
Flew Alitalia from JFK on Nov. 3rd. Once again - spent about 45 minutes taxing and waiting to take off. This seems to becoming a regular occurrence. The flight went smoothly - the in-flight meal was actually good though the individual screens did not function properly. I was happy reading and sleeping. Connected through Milan - had about and hour and half between flights - no problems. Arrived in Bologna around 11:30, as did my luggage - hopped in a taxi, 12 euro later, was dropped off at Albergo Centrale. Return trip went overall smoothly - the only bottle neck was going through passport control in Milan.
flight:
Flew Alitalia from JFK on Nov. 3rd. Once again - spent about 45 minutes taxing and waiting to take off. This seems to becoming a regular occurrence. The flight went smoothly - the in-flight meal was actually good though the individual screens did not function properly. I was happy reading and sleeping. Connected through Milan - had about and hour and half between flights - no problems. Arrived in Bologna around 11:30, as did my luggage - hopped in a taxi, 12 euro later, was dropped off at Albergo Centrale. Return trip went overall smoothly - the only bottle neck was going through passport control in Milan.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:13 AM
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hotel:
Albergo Centrale
http://www.albergocentralebologna.it
I paid 75 euro for a double used as a single - it looked out on to the street (della Zecca) but was quiet. The room was a tad dark but the location can't be beat - two blocks away from the Piazza Magiorre, a 10-15 minute walk to the train station. Werter and his staff helped with dinner reservations, etc. Great location.
Bologna:
Porticos - there is something about the space defined by the porticos, which is only for pedestrians, that is wonderfully civilized - the alternating bans of light and shadow, the m.c. escher-like visual of endless porticos. The ocher, mustard, and rust colored buildings glowed in the pale autumnal light - the handsome strutting Italian men, the well put together Italian women, lots of university students. The Piazza Magiorre was a hub of activity - jazz band, people talking, kids
playing, bicyclists leisurely peddeling their way through. A chocolate festival took place in the piazza for most of the week - chocolates filled with lemoncello, aceto balsamic. grappa, sambuca, etc. I found most of the churches to be pretty straight forward - nothing extraordinary. Bologna is a great base to do day trips to various nearby cities and you can get back for dinner. The weather for the entire week was unseasonably warm to slightly cool - just a light jacket, occasionally a sweater. The information office at the train station was extremely helpful printing out train schedules. If you're not up for a big dinner you can always try one of the bars in the early evening which put put out " free cicheti" , as long as you have a glass of wine or two.
Albergo Centrale
http://www.albergocentralebologna.it
I paid 75 euro for a double used as a single - it looked out on to the street (della Zecca) but was quiet. The room was a tad dark but the location can't be beat - two blocks away from the Piazza Magiorre, a 10-15 minute walk to the train station. Werter and his staff helped with dinner reservations, etc. Great location.
Bologna:
Porticos - there is something about the space defined by the porticos, which is only for pedestrians, that is wonderfully civilized - the alternating bans of light and shadow, the m.c. escher-like visual of endless porticos. The ocher, mustard, and rust colored buildings glowed in the pale autumnal light - the handsome strutting Italian men, the well put together Italian women, lots of university students. The Piazza Magiorre was a hub of activity - jazz band, people talking, kids
playing, bicyclists leisurely peddeling their way through. A chocolate festival took place in the piazza for most of the week - chocolates filled with lemoncello, aceto balsamic. grappa, sambuca, etc. I found most of the churches to be pretty straight forward - nothing extraordinary. Bologna is a great base to do day trips to various nearby cities and you can get back for dinner. The weather for the entire week was unseasonably warm to slightly cool - just a light jacket, occasionally a sweater. The information office at the train station was extremely helpful printing out train schedules. If you're not up for a big dinner you can always try one of the bars in the early evening which put put out " free cicheti" , as long as you have a glass of wine or two.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:14 AM
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Modena:
20 minute train ride from Bologna. The duomo is a UNESCO heritage site - a combination of Romanesque and Lombard styles. The interior is moody and mysterious. The choir and the crypt have wonderful sculptural details. Be sure to check out the farmer's market - even the heads of lettuce are works of beauty. Lots of chic and expensive shopping - they don't call it the mink city for nothing.
Parma:
Unlike Bologna and Modena - I noticed there weren't many - if any - porticos in Parma. The duomo's exterior is Romanesque - the interior ceiling is painted in the Mannerist style, very colorful and a sense of giddiness compared to the solemnity of Modena's duomo. The pink exterior of the baptistry, next to the duomo, gives no hint to what lies inside - a gothic vaulted space almost entirely covered with medieval art - breath taking
Ravenna:
About an hour and a half train ride from Bologna. The mosaics in the churches, basilicas, baptistry,mausoleum, etc are gorgeous. Make an effort to see the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, which is a suburb of Ravenna.
20 minute train ride from Bologna. The duomo is a UNESCO heritage site - a combination of Romanesque and Lombard styles. The interior is moody and mysterious. The choir and the crypt have wonderful sculptural details. Be sure to check out the farmer's market - even the heads of lettuce are works of beauty. Lots of chic and expensive shopping - they don't call it the mink city for nothing.
Parma:
Unlike Bologna and Modena - I noticed there weren't many - if any - porticos in Parma. The duomo's exterior is Romanesque - the interior ceiling is painted in the Mannerist style, very colorful and a sense of giddiness compared to the solemnity of Modena's duomo. The pink exterior of the baptistry, next to the duomo, gives no hint to what lies inside - a gothic vaulted space almost entirely covered with medieval art - breath taking
Ravenna:
About an hour and a half train ride from Bologna. The mosaics in the churches, basilicas, baptistry,mausoleum, etc are gorgeous. Make an effort to see the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, which is a suburb of Ravenna.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:17 AM
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Restaurants:
Enoteca at Tamburini
The enoteca at Tamburini has various sampler plates of cured meats and cheeses - plus a wide variety of wines by the glass. Be sure to try the lardo. I found the lambrusco to be a nice second fiddle to the food - it didn't upstage the food. The Sangiovese/cabernet blends were pleasant also. This was a great introduction to the foods of the region.
Re Enzo
via Riva di Reno 79/d, Bologna
My first dinner in Bologna. Started with a plate of cured meats - the smoked duck breast proscuitto melted on my tongue. The pasta with white truffles was so fragrant. The lamb had a balsamic glaze of some sort with flecks of rosemary and slivers of chestnuts. For dessert - something chocolatey and chestnut I think. The recommended cabernet/sangiovese blend opened up nicely and was 12E. Even though it was a Saturday - the place never filled up.
Trattoria Meloncello
Via Saragozza 240a, Bologna
This seems to be one of the few restaurants open on Sunday - I was going to have lunch on my way up to San Luca. I didn't have reservations and the place was packed.
Enoteca at Tamburini
The enoteca at Tamburini has various sampler plates of cured meats and cheeses - plus a wide variety of wines by the glass. Be sure to try the lardo. I found the lambrusco to be a nice second fiddle to the food - it didn't upstage the food. The Sangiovese/cabernet blends were pleasant also. This was a great introduction to the foods of the region.
Re Enzo
via Riva di Reno 79/d, Bologna
My first dinner in Bologna. Started with a plate of cured meats - the smoked duck breast proscuitto melted on my tongue. The pasta with white truffles was so fragrant. The lamb had a balsamic glaze of some sort with flecks of rosemary and slivers of chestnuts. For dessert - something chocolatey and chestnut I think. The recommended cabernet/sangiovese blend opened up nicely and was 12E. Even though it was a Saturday - the place never filled up.
Trattoria Meloncello
Via Saragozza 240a, Bologna
This seems to be one of the few restaurants open on Sunday - I was going to have lunch on my way up to San Luca. I didn't have reservations and the place was packed.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:18 AM
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Gigina
via Stendhl 1b, Bologna
This was about a 10E taxi ride from the Piazza Magiorre. Lots of Italian families having dinner here - very lively. Started with a beautiful plate of rare roast beef , with a squeeze of lemon - followed by taglitelle with ragu sauce and then veal in a balsamic sauce.
Caminetta d'oro
via de'Falegnami, 4, Bologna
http://www.caminettodoro.it/
Wonderful lite rifts on local recipes - started with a simple green salad with delicate baby vegetables and shaved Parmesan. Spinach ravioli in a light cream sauce with carrots and peas - the pasta and the sauce was so light and delicate - delicious. For secondo - rabbit with some roasted vegetables - perfectly cooked.
Dei Picari
via Emilia-Ponente 459, Bologna
www.latavernadeipicari.it
A rustic tavern - about a 10E taxi ride from the Piazza Maggiore. When tasting his mortadella, I finally understood that American baloney is a very poor cousin to mortadella. The filling for his homemade tortellini in brodo - made me pause.
And his tortellini were small - not plump. The lamb was tender and well prepared. I recommend this place highly.
via Stendhl 1b, Bologna
This was about a 10E taxi ride from the Piazza Magiorre. Lots of Italian families having dinner here - very lively. Started with a beautiful plate of rare roast beef , with a squeeze of lemon - followed by taglitelle with ragu sauce and then veal in a balsamic sauce.
Caminetta d'oro
via de'Falegnami, 4, Bologna
http://www.caminettodoro.it/
Wonderful lite rifts on local recipes - started with a simple green salad with delicate baby vegetables and shaved Parmesan. Spinach ravioli in a light cream sauce with carrots and peas - the pasta and the sauce was so light and delicate - delicious. For secondo - rabbit with some roasted vegetables - perfectly cooked.
Dei Picari
via Emilia-Ponente 459, Bologna
www.latavernadeipicari.it
A rustic tavern - about a 10E taxi ride from the Piazza Maggiore. When tasting his mortadella, I finally understood that American baloney is a very poor cousin to mortadella. The filling for his homemade tortellini in brodo - made me pause.
And his tortellini were small - not plump. The lamb was tender and well prepared. I recommend this place highly.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:20 AM
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Grassilli
via del Luzzo 3, Bologna
near due Torre
Creativo cucina. The polenta gnocchi with a lamb ragu (I think) were especially good and hearty. Different and intriguing rifts on traditional dishes.
Franco Rossi
Via Goito, 3, Bologna
Disappointing - all the dishes were heavy handed. The breaded veal with parma ham, cheese and truffles was so heavy laden. They also have a John Grishman menu - in his latest novel the restaurant is mentioned. The highlight of the meal was an Italian family celebrating a birthday at the table next to me - they insisted I join them for cake and prosecco.
Cesarina
via Santo Stefano 19/B, Bologna
http://www.ristorantecesarina.it/
Near San Stefano. Started with a plate of various antipasti - not bad. The couple next to me had order asparagus - which looked gorgeous. Tortellini in a pomodoro sauce - not bad but after the first bite wished i had ordered the ravioli with pumpkin. For secondo - guinea fowl with roasted vegetables. The waitress recommend the house sangiovese/cabernate blend.
via del Luzzo 3, Bologna
near due Torre
Creativo cucina. The polenta gnocchi with a lamb ragu (I think) were especially good and hearty. Different and intriguing rifts on traditional dishes.
Franco Rossi
Via Goito, 3, Bologna
Disappointing - all the dishes were heavy handed. The breaded veal with parma ham, cheese and truffles was so heavy laden. They also have a John Grishman menu - in his latest novel the restaurant is mentioned. The highlight of the meal was an Italian family celebrating a birthday at the table next to me - they insisted I join them for cake and prosecco.
Cesarina
via Santo Stefano 19/B, Bologna
http://www.ristorantecesarina.it/
Near San Stefano. Started with a plate of various antipasti - not bad. The couple next to me had order asparagus - which looked gorgeous. Tortellini in a pomodoro sauce - not bad but after the first bite wished i had ordered the ravioli with pumpkin. For secondo - guinea fowl with roasted vegetables. The waitress recommend the house sangiovese/cabernate blend.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:21 AM
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Cesari
via de Carbonesi 8
Started with lardo e crostini - which was one of my favorite dishes of the region. For a primi - tortellini filled with spiced pumpkin - another regional favorite. For my secondo - cheese flan with white truffles. I had a local lambrusco as a counter point to all the rich food
Del Cacciatore
via Caduti di Casteldebole 25
http://www.ristoranteilcacciatore.com
Their specialty is game - a 10E taxi ride from Piazza Maggiore. The best antipasti carts my whole trip - everything was just a notch above in quality/flavor/tenderness. The wild boar had a touch too much clove. The grappa trolley has 150 bottles. This was my only dinner where I didn't open my book once - I felt so relaxed and at ease. I recommend this place highly.
Torre de Galluzzi
Corte Galluzzi 5/a
Started with cooked asparagus with parmesan - the asparagus had unfortunately been cooked to a point of such limpness - not a good start. Followed with a huge bowl of tortellini in brodo - which was just right to take the chill off me. Followed with a beef carpaccio salad with shaved parmesan - which was fantastic.
via de Carbonesi 8
Started with lardo e crostini - which was one of my favorite dishes of the region. For a primi - tortellini filled with spiced pumpkin - another regional favorite. For my secondo - cheese flan with white truffles. I had a local lambrusco as a counter point to all the rich food
Del Cacciatore
via Caduti di Casteldebole 25
http://www.ristoranteilcacciatore.com
Their specialty is game - a 10E taxi ride from Piazza Maggiore. The best antipasti carts my whole trip - everything was just a notch above in quality/flavor/tenderness. The wild boar had a touch too much clove. The grappa trolley has 150 bottles. This was my only dinner where I didn't open my book once - I felt so relaxed and at ease. I recommend this place highly.
Torre de Galluzzi
Corte Galluzzi 5/a
Started with cooked asparagus with parmesan - the asparagus had unfortunately been cooked to a point of such limpness - not a good start. Followed with a huge bowl of tortellini in brodo - which was just right to take the chill off me. Followed with a beef carpaccio salad with shaved parmesan - which was fantastic.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:22 AM
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Da Bertino & Figli
via delle Lame 55, Bologna
My hotel suggested this my last night - one of the last places that serves traditional bolito misto. I was the only non-Italian in the place. Started with the tortellini in brodo was a meal unto itself. The broth was amazing - clear but with incredible flavor. I loved slurping the tortellini. Did the bolito misto - which was an assortment of tender cuts of cooked meats. A great last meal in Bologna, I highly recommend this place.
Cucina de Museo,
via Sant'Agostino 7, Modena
It's a small intimate restaurant - maybe 8 tables at most and a small fireplace. I tried the 'creativo cucina' menu - pumpkin and bacalo, asparagus/mushroom flan, venison. For dessert a chestnut chocolately creation being that chestnuts were in season. The owner recommended a local lambrusco and as a digestif, the locally made walnut liquor. I would love to come back and have dinner here.
Il Trovatore,
via Affo 2/a, Parma
near the train station
They have reasonably priced 5 course meat and seafood menus. My waiter was wonderful - telling me the correct order to eat the cured meats - recommending a certain lambrusco - telling me about the region's foods. Started with a plate of various cured meats - followed by pumpkin spiced filled ravioli and spinach cheese filled ravioli. These were astounding - the pasta was so thin and delicate - the spiced pumpkin filling so fall like. For my secondo - beef cheeks - so tender. For dessert - a sample platter of various desserts of the restaurant. I recommend this place highly.
via delle Lame 55, Bologna
My hotel suggested this my last night - one of the last places that serves traditional bolito misto. I was the only non-Italian in the place. Started with the tortellini in brodo was a meal unto itself. The broth was amazing - clear but with incredible flavor. I loved slurping the tortellini. Did the bolito misto - which was an assortment of tender cuts of cooked meats. A great last meal in Bologna, I highly recommend this place.
Cucina de Museo,
via Sant'Agostino 7, Modena
It's a small intimate restaurant - maybe 8 tables at most and a small fireplace. I tried the 'creativo cucina' menu - pumpkin and bacalo, asparagus/mushroom flan, venison. For dessert a chestnut chocolately creation being that chestnuts were in season. The owner recommended a local lambrusco and as a digestif, the locally made walnut liquor. I would love to come back and have dinner here.
Il Trovatore,
via Affo 2/a, Parma
near the train station
They have reasonably priced 5 course meat and seafood menus. My waiter was wonderful - telling me the correct order to eat the cured meats - recommending a certain lambrusco - telling me about the region's foods. Started with a plate of various cured meats - followed by pumpkin spiced filled ravioli and spinach cheese filled ravioli. These were astounding - the pasta was so thin and delicate - the spiced pumpkin filling so fall like. For my secondo - beef cheeks - so tender. For dessert - a sample platter of various desserts of the restaurant. I recommend this place highly.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:23 AM
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La Rustica,
Via Alberoni Giulio, 55, Ravenna
near the train station
A small trattoria - reasonably priced - easy to find. I had a quick bite here - a plate of cured meats, some pasta with fungi and couple glasses of the house red.
Via Alberoni Giulio, 55, Ravenna
near the train station
A small trattoria - reasonably priced - easy to find. I had a quick bite here - a plate of cured meats, some pasta with fungi and couple glasses of the house red.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:50 AM
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Sandi -
Del Cacciatore was my favorite - the antipasti carts were astounding.
Flinn -
No problems at all dining solo - however I did make sure I had dinner reservations. For lunch - I just walked in. Keep an eye on the time - I was waved away from one restaurant around 2:30 pm when I walked in.
Del Cacciatore was my favorite - the antipasti carts were astounding.
Flinn -
No problems at all dining solo - however I did make sure I had dinner reservations. For lunch - I just walked in. Keep an eye on the time - I was waved away from one restaurant around 2:30 pm when I walked in.
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:59 AM
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Hi Carta_Pisana,
Great trip report! It goes straight to the point without omitting the interesting details that you don't read in bookguides.
I've got three questions (if you don't mind my asking):
1. What was the breakfast like at the hotel? Is it worth paying 7 euros or I might as well have breakfast at a bar nearby?
2. How long would you consider enough to stay in Bologna?
3. Is it a good place to do shopping in terms of books and clothes?
Thank you!
Great trip report! It goes straight to the point without omitting the interesting details that you don't read in bookguides.
I've got three questions (if you don't mind my asking):
1. What was the breakfast like at the hotel? Is it worth paying 7 euros or I might as well have breakfast at a bar nearby?
2. How long would you consider enough to stay in Bologna?
3. Is it a good place to do shopping in terms of books and clothes?
Thank you!
Jan 4th, 2007, 06:01 AM
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Great trip report, especially the restaurant listings. I love Bologna--stayed at the Albergo Centrale myself in 2004 and found it a fine budget choice in a great location. I definitely agree that Bologna is not as touristy and therefore has a different ambience compared to Rome & Florence.
Incidentally, Florence is only 1 hr away by train, so I used Bologna as my base to explore Florence as well as Ravenna, Ferrara, etc. Cheaper lodgings, and I liked coming back to relatively peaceful Bologna at the end of a hectic Florence day.
Incidentally, Florence is only 1 hr away by train, so I used Bologna as my base to explore Florence as well as Ravenna, Ferrara, etc. Cheaper lodgings, and I liked coming back to relatively peaceful Bologna at the end of a hectic Florence day.
Jan 4th, 2007, 07:17 AM
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Ciao Carta Pisana! How fun to read about your wonderful trip. You are my traveling role model. Chocolates filled with limoncello? balsamico? sambuca? YIKES! My mouth is watering. Which did you like best?
Our mutual friend, la bella Linda, will be in Venezia for Carnival!
Our mutual friend, la bella Linda, will be in Venezia for Carnival!
