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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 06:38 AM
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First trip to Paris

We are in our late forties and are taking our first trip to Europe this fall visiting Paris for a week. We love cafes, shopping, meeting local people but also want to see the "tourist attractions". We have no fear of taking the "metro trains" all over the city just as we did in New York this year. Any suggestions for where to stay? We cannot speak French at all, will this be a problem? We visited Martinque last year and found the French people there to be quite rude and unhelpful when we spoke english to them. Will it be the same in Paris? One more thing, what is considered acceptable dress for daytime sightseeing and nightime dinner? Signed, Uno-Lingual
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 06:56 AM
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We were in Paris in April, in the very midst of the French-U.S. dispute, and we were treated extremely well; people went out of their way to tell us how much they liked Americans; we had an 11 year old with us which may have helped. My daughter in law had taken some French lessons but certainly wasn't fluent. She could order her croissant and a few other helpful phrases. Always ask if someone speaks English (learn the phrase in French) and you will probably get the response "a litte." Well, their little is far more than my French. Learn the pleasantries, hello, thank you, etc. Buy a basic computer language program so you can recognize numbers, foods and basic phrases. I surprised myself by knowing a lot more menu items than I realized. Even without asking, we got help from the Parisians; I was following the map on a bus ride and the older woman next to me gave me help for my stop (she was so kind I didn't tell her I knew where it was). We didn't share a language but it didn't matter. Go and enjoy. It's my belief that you get back what you give. As far as clothing goes, I wore black work slacks, with washable silk tops, my favorite scarves, a blazer jacket and my long raincoat. It was cold in April. Other than shorts, I think I saw just about everything-jeans, tennis shoes, whatever. I am not comfortable being that casual in a city atmosphere so was dressed a bit more. And, I swear by Easy Spirit shoes. Search this site and you will find more recommendations for hotels than you will want!!
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 06:57 AM
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Hi Kaster,

My wife and I always stay at the Hotel Bonaparte, 61 rue bonaparte in the 6th. About 100E dbl w/bkfst.

You can find a map of the neighborhood, as well as fax number at http://www.voila.fr/PJ/.

They do not have a website.

You will not need much French beyond the necessary 'bon jour (bon soir), madame/monsieur', 'merci', 'parlez vous anglais, s'il vous plait?'

It is best if you approach people in French and then ask if they speak English.

Acceptable dress for sightseeing is casual, but if you are going to visit churches please keep in mind that they are houses of worship and not tourist sites.

Dinner at night ranges from casual (not shorts) to jacket and tie depending upon how pricey the restaurant is. All of the resturants around the corner from the hotel accepted casual dress.
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:00 AM
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My suggestion for hotels would be the Left Bank, do a text search, you can find a tremendous amount of suggestions. It depends on your budget so I won't bother listing my favorites
I speak mostly "menu" and the "hello, goodbye,Thank you" kind of French..we have never ever had a problem with the language and find that Parisians get a kick out of the fact that we at least try, so pick up a Berlitz book and learn some rudimentary phrases or words.
There is no comparison between a Caribbean island and Paris, France.
Acceptable dress is anything comfortable for you. We always go in the fall, we live in NYC and I take to Paris what I wear in NY.
Sweaters, slacks/corduroys daytime, black slacks/pantsuit at night.
Wear whatever is comfortable for walking all day.
Just buy lots of guide books and study them, make lots of lists of what you want to see and do and be organized so you get the most out of each day.
You will love it and start planning the next trip as you leave!!
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:21 AM
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Ira, there was a Pierre Hermé shop across from your hotel B. is it still there??
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:26 AM
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Hi cigalechanta,

Yes, it is still there, #72. There is an Yves St Laurent opposite that.
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:38 AM
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Hi
If you are new to this website, do a search here on Paris and you will be overwhelmed with great information.
Also, elsewhere here on Fodors.com is
basic useful information on major city Destinations, including Paris of course.
You will also find hotel and restaurant
"rants & raves" comments.

With about a week's stay, you could see a good deal of Paris and also take a daytrip or two: there are many choices, most popular ones include Versailles, Chartres, Giverny, etc.

Parisians as a group are not rude. Just as anywhere, there is an occasional rude individual, but that's to be expected. Parisians are not as outgoing in general as Americans (if that's what you are) and they place a higher value on privacy and formality.
So they don't try and be your best friend, but if you offer a smile, a good morning, and a please and thank you, you wil be treated with courtesy, respect, and even with warmth.

Almost all employees in major tourist attractions will speak enough English, and in practically every restaurant or cafe, enough English will be spoken by someone.

What to wear is a very controversial topic. Most of the world's tourists, and that includes French tourists, dress very very casually. Parisians who are grown-ups going about their business are more often dressed more chicly, but that's them, and you are you. Jeans are not very common at dinner time, though you would not be ejected from most places. Dark slacks or a skirt, a collared shirt for a man, would be fine for most places. Only a handful of the top places require or expect jacket and tie, and if you're going to one of those places, you probably can already guess that.

I have a long file on Paris; if you'd like to see it,email me at
[email protected]
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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 07:41 AM
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For a visit to Paris in September, I would not wait any longer to make a hotel reservation. You will find that the city is alive and hosting many business conferences in addition to the many visitors.

There are literally thousands of good small hotels in Paris. The contributors to this board mainly concentrate on the 5, 6, and 7th Arrs.

But there are many hotels in the other areas as well. Here is a site that should show you a long list of choices:
http://www.france-hotel-guide.com/parishotels.htm

For me, a good Paris hotel has these attributes: English speaking staff (common in 3 star hotels), close to transportation, bus and Metro, and air conditione.

Even in September, the weather can be humid and warm. Besides if the room is air contolled, you can keep the windows shut at night and keep the street noise out.

People seem to have a fixation on a hotel close to the attractions. Well, I never thought that was possible. If you are close to one, it is a long ways to another. The bus system is quite efficient as is the Metro. So I can get to where I want to be quickly.
Invariably, if you are close to one attraction, you are distant with respect to another.

I never have had an problem in Paris, except for the Metro, which I have grown to hate. As anywhere some people are curt, others semi hostile, and still others friendly.

How you dress is not an item unless you are planning on visiting a very high class restaurant. I wear in Paris what I wear here. I am not sure what kind of costume would get you arrested, and I have seen some outlandish getups.
The Parisians seem to be fairly tolerant of what you wear and how you act as long as it does not infringe on someone else's rights and progress.

For example, I rode the metro one night from Gare de Lyon to my hotel. There was guy sitting fairly close to me who was either drunk or crazy or both. He kept shouting and pounding the wall of the train car with his fist. No one paid any attention to him except me.

And on the subway, musicians sometimes pop on and off to panhandle a few coins. I had an accordian player jump on my car last year. He was a pretty darned good player, so I have him some euro coins. He responded by playing what he thought was appropriate for me and my girl friend of 47 years -- I think the song goes "When you are in love, its the most beautiful night of the year."
I think the cops frown on the musicians, but if the performe is good, as many of them are, I find it enriching.
I would not count on a lot of English conversation in Paris. We can usually find our way, and at times, people have offered to help. That is one reason I prefer the bus. In my experience, people who ride the bus are more prone to offer assistance, particularly if you are reading a map and trying to pinpoint buildings and streets.

I don't think it is easily possible to blend in so to speak. I stick out like a guy 7 feet 3 inches tall. And people automatically start speaking English to my wife. So we are spectacularly unsuccessful at looking like anything but an American.

There is nothing quite like Paris even though at times it can be a little exasperating. Go prepared with what you want to see for about 60% of your time and let Paris unfold and present itself the other 40%. You will find attractions you never knew existed. So leave time to free lance and to be distracted by something else.

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Old Jun 4th, 2003, 08:12 AM
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What excellent and well said advice Bob Brown !!
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Old Jun 6th, 2003, 05:01 PM
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kaster,

We went in mid-October last year, stayed at the Bonaparte (Ira discussed it above). Great location, very pleasant staff, lots of shopping and restaurants nearby.

After a trip to the country we returned and stayed at Hotel de Notre Dame. Loved it, too. Unlike the Bonaparte, it does have a website. We paid 150E for a double.
www.hotel-paris-notredame.com/index.html

You don't mention a budget, but you would probably be happy at either one of those.

It was quite cold in Paris and rained often, which didn't dampen our spirits one bit. But I wore my boots more than I'd anticipated. Take AT LEAST two pair of comfortable walking shoes...break them in before departing.
You will probably want a lightweight raincoat. Wear layers so you won't be too hot in museums, etc. You can buy lovely wool scarves at street markets. (I was so much happier---and warmer---after I bought mine.)

Lastly, study a little and know some of the sites you want to see. It helps to make a list of which sites are in which arrondisement (district of the city)so that you don't realize later you missed something practically next door. Also helpful to note which Metro stop is near each attraction.

Lastly, you will enjoy it so much
more if you learn some basic French phrases. Especially if, as you say, you enjoy "meeting local people".

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Old Jun 6th, 2003, 09:02 PM
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Just returned on 5/29 from 6 days in Paris. This was our second trip, we rented an apartment which was fabulous. We take metro everywhere and do a lot of walking enjoying the wonderful neighborhoods.
Museums are always a must for us and this time we repeated a visit to the Muse D'Orsay as I especially love impressionist art. Smaller museum filled with Monet paintings is the Marmottan. If you like MOnet it is a must. Flea markets are fun also local fresh markets are usually on Wednesday and Saturday are always intersting. Take train or drive to Giverny to see Monet home and grounds. It was like Mecca to me! Concerts galore in the churches. Try the American Church for all kinds of information on what is happening also available at news stands is a "what's happening" in Paris. Most everyone speaks English. They are very accommodating when I realize that we don't publish our menus in other languages like they do. But then, they depend on the tourist $ a lot. Loved Paris and we were not treated any different. As far as dress goes: leave the cowboy hats at home and dress in your everyday clothes and you will be fine. Personally I take clothes that are mix and match and muted colors with scarves, sweaters as my color. Evening dress, is jsut like here unless you are going to the Ritz where you might want to dress up.

BTW our apartment was fabulous. It was in the 7th with an incredible view of the Eiffel tower and a great neighborhood. If you are interested, the web site is www.parisperfect.com. Madelyn and Philipe are wonderful to deal with. Shar
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Old Jun 9th, 2003, 07:39 AM
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Thanks so much to everyone that replied to my message. There is so much helpful information available on this site! I have bought Rick Steve's book on Paris and between the book and this website, I feel that we will be well prepared to our "adventure"! Two more quick questions if anyone has the energy to answer again...Are all eating establishments "smoking allowed"? How bad is the smoke? ( I am allergic to cigarette smoke although this wont deter me from visiting Paris) and does anyone have a suggestion for a book or online course to learn some quick/easy French language?
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Old Jun 9th, 2003, 07:45 AM
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From my experience, you are going to run into smokers everywhere. (Not in the museums...I think?!)

I used the Michel Thomas French course--8 CD's. It's quite comprehensive, maybe more than you're looking for. I was able to carry on limited conversations. There's a Berlitz series. Check out your library. They should have several you can look through before you buy.
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Old Jun 9th, 2003, 09:18 AM
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Your attitude sounds good, Kaster, and that's going to be half the fun of traveling to Paris. Most of the above advice is really good, and I just want to enlarge on a comment by Bob Brown. We use the Metro all of the time, but we've very rarely had "nice" persons working the booths there. Part of the problem is Americans and other tourists think that their job description includes "tour guide" and they naturally resent it. The other half of the problem is that they seem to be surely with all passengers--Americans or local French! They hardly represent the rest of our experiences with Parisians, so just ignore the attitude. Learn French for what you want at the ticket window (le guichet) and the rest of the stay will work just fine. The Metro system is so darn easy, and the maps displayed everywhere are so darn good that you don't need personal help anyway. You just need to buy tickets/passes. Research those on this board too.
 
Old Jun 9th, 2003, 09:48 AM
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Everyone has made good points. Here what I think.

1) You don't need a cd course to learn enough for this trip. Although I'm not a huge Rick Steves' fan, his French phrase book is pretty good. Also, your local travel store might have a little pocket French book that can help in a pinch.

2) When you enter a store, always say "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir". When you leave, a nice "Au revoir, merci" is appreciated. If you make an effort to speak the language, I have found your kindness and tyhoughtfulness is reciprocated.

3) You will encounter smoke at restaurants, but some of the restaurants have pretty good venilation systems. My wife also has a problem with smoke, but so far so good on our trips.

4) Museum card is great if you plan on going to a bunch of sites. They are good for 1, 3 or 5 days, depending on how long you're there and what you want to see. Another benefit, escape long lines at Musee D'Orsay. Louve, Versailles.

5) Walk the various neighborhoods. Although a big city, Paris always feels small to me because there are so many different and distinct neighborhoods.

6) Don't know your budget. We like Le Tourville hotel in the 7th. Friendly and helpful English speaking staff. Go for a superior double if they have it. I also like Clos des Gourmets restaurant in the 7th. reasonable prices, great food and friendly service.

7) Relax and enjoy. I have been to Paris many times. Don't museum yourself out. Kiss on a bridge overlooking the Seine. Sip wine or coffee at a cafe and just soak in the ambiance. Picnic at Rodin Gardens. There are limitless things to do and places to see. That's why we go back.
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Old Jun 9th, 2003, 10:15 AM
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Hi Kaster!

My two cents. My thoughts on choosing a hotel is that I want a hotel that is walking distance to the center of Paris. A big part of the enjoyment of Paris is walking the streets. For that reason something in the Left Bank would work well. The Metro is very good and very extensive. I would use it to go to sights that are a bit out of the core (like the Eiffel Tower) and to get back to the Hotel fast if I'm all walked out. I like the idea of being downtown at night, and walking back to the hotel from a restaurant, along the Seine, etc..The Rue Cler hotels are a bit further from the hub, assuming Notre Dame cathedral is the epicentre. The recommendation for the Hotel De Notre Dame is a good one. It is very close to the Seine and Notre Dame, on a small one way side street. The Left Bank also offers lots of good restautants. You will find that all (or most?) restaurants post their menus outside, so you can peruse/translate before you go in. Some restaurants will be able to offer you an English menu. Dinner starts around 8, so plan any nighttime concerts, boat crusies,etc.. accordingly. You will find that there is a protocol for restaurants/cafes/bistrots. When you enter, do not just grab a table. Get the waiter's attention. He will either say sit anywhere, or tell you where is best. Always give a bonjour on the way in, and an aurevoir on the way out (applies to small shops also). You don't need to tip, service is built in. If you had great service, you can leave the change. Expect that at a cafe with a patio, the prices on the patio will be higher than inside, which in turn will be higher than at the bar. They will not rush you or bring you the bill without you asking for it, so don't think that they are inefficient. The pace is very much different in Paris, you could order a cafe creme and spend a few hours just watching the people go by, I've done this a few times. Get a good city map with all of the streets and metro stations. As someone said, don't rely on the metro booth attendants. On my first day there I buy a carnet, which is a book of 10 metro tickets and then I'm good for a week. Others here will talk to you about Carnet Oranges,etc..The "system" is made up of the Metro and the RER, and they share stations. The RER is something like a commuter train system, and its routes go from Paris to the suburbs. You can use the RER to get from the airport to central Paris, to go to Versailles, etc.. A nighttime boat cruise on the Seine is a memorable event, so plan one while you are there. I also like, when I come to a new city, to do a 1/2 to 1 day intro bus tour of the city. There are a couple, Cityrama and Paris Visions for example, that leave from beside the Louvre. Paris is a safe walking city, so feel comfortable knowing you can walk pretty well everywhere. Find a street market (Cler , Buci and Mouffetard are a couple) and see how the locals live. Parsi Walks offers some good 1/2 day walking tours. Ile St Louis is a nice neighbourhood for shopping and restaurants. It also has a couple of hotels that would be nice choices. Walk a lot, take time to go to cafes and you will become as enamoured with the City as a lot of us already are.

Hope this helps!

Mike
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Old Jun 9th, 2003, 11:44 AM
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My wife and I are somewhat older than you but like the same things that you describe. I would suggest you contact these two hotels NOW:
1)Hotel Pas des Calais
2) Le Sainte Beauve
Both have web sites and are in the 6th which is where you want to be. Near Metro, good restaurants, etc. Give it a
try and have a nice time.








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Old Jun 12th, 2003, 06:19 AM
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I highly recommend Derby Alma Hotel, part of Best Western, it is walking distance from the Eiffel tower on the left bank. The staff is great and the rooms very nice.
We paid about $120 a night last November.
We don't speak French either and we had a blast. Best vacation ever!
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