Finally!! LLindaC's Switzerland Trip Report!!!
Aug 1st, 2005, 11:33 PM
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Finally!! LLindaC's Switzerland Trip Report!!!
This was my second trip to this country after 30 years, my husband's first. We are fit, 50 and 54 and wanted to experience different regions and have an active vacation.
I will post this report in 4 sections. This was a 13 day trip. We left Louisville, Ky on June 17 on a
typical connecting Delta flight. We stood in line for an hour and a half for no reason and (many) barely made the connection. Long story, but Delta was a nightmare! Took AirItalia from Washington, D.C. to Milan.We weren't impressed; the flight was cramped and there were few amenities. In Milan, we had a lot of trouble connecting to a train to Lugano. We were relieved to be in Switzerland, where we never had another moment of trouble with trains, buses or planes! Once you cross from Italy, it's a different world. We chose to buy Swiss passes which were accepted everywhere but on
Jungfrau area trains and some cable cars. Every hotel I mention has been thoroughly reviewed at
www.tripadvisor.com under my user name, LLindaC.
Part 1) Ticino
We used our Priority points and booked 3 comp days at the Holiday Inn in Paradiso, close to Lugano. It was a good choice- the hotel was quiet and away from the traffic in a nice residential area. We had a corner room on the top floor with views of the lake and Mt. San Salvatore. The bus stopped by the hotel, and the lake ferry was 2 blocks away. It was very warm- about 92 degrees. The air conditioning and pool were comforting! The staff was helpful and we were pleased with our room. Lugano was bustling even at a low tourist time, the traffic was terrible on the lake front.
Lugano was too glitzy for my tastes with people in their high fashions and the overpriced stores. We were glad to take the funicular to Mt. San Salvatore the next day for great hiking, quaint villages and lovely panoramas. The trails weren't marked very well, and we did get lost several times. However, we really loved Carona where we enjoyed the church and a lunch in town. The walk to Vico Morcote was a million steps down! Well worth it, we walked thorough the botanical gardens and finished our hike in Morcote where we ferried back home. We enjoyed several meals in small cafes near the town.On the second day, we were glad to leave and enjoy the town of Bellinzona, where we hiked to all three castles.We also enjoyed the cathedral and other buildings in the old town and had a great lunch on the square. Later, we took a ferry from Paradiso to traffic-free Gandria and had a romantic
dinner at Ristorante Miralago.
I will post this report in 4 sections. This was a 13 day trip. We left Louisville, Ky on June 17 on a
typical connecting Delta flight. We stood in line for an hour and a half for no reason and (many) barely made the connection. Long story, but Delta was a nightmare! Took AirItalia from Washington, D.C. to Milan.We weren't impressed; the flight was cramped and there were few amenities. In Milan, we had a lot of trouble connecting to a train to Lugano. We were relieved to be in Switzerland, where we never had another moment of trouble with trains, buses or planes! Once you cross from Italy, it's a different world. We chose to buy Swiss passes which were accepted everywhere but on
Jungfrau area trains and some cable cars. Every hotel I mention has been thoroughly reviewed at
www.tripadvisor.com under my user name, LLindaC.
Part 1) Ticino
We used our Priority points and booked 3 comp days at the Holiday Inn in Paradiso, close to Lugano. It was a good choice- the hotel was quiet and away from the traffic in a nice residential area. We had a corner room on the top floor with views of the lake and Mt. San Salvatore. The bus stopped by the hotel, and the lake ferry was 2 blocks away. It was very warm- about 92 degrees. The air conditioning and pool were comforting! The staff was helpful and we were pleased with our room. Lugano was bustling even at a low tourist time, the traffic was terrible on the lake front.
Lugano was too glitzy for my tastes with people in their high fashions and the overpriced stores. We were glad to take the funicular to Mt. San Salvatore the next day for great hiking, quaint villages and lovely panoramas. The trails weren't marked very well, and we did get lost several times. However, we really loved Carona where we enjoyed the church and a lunch in town. The walk to Vico Morcote was a million steps down! Well worth it, we walked thorough the botanical gardens and finished our hike in Morcote where we ferried back home. We enjoyed several meals in small cafes near the town.On the second day, we were glad to leave and enjoy the town of Bellinzona, where we hiked to all three castles.We also enjoyed the cathedral and other buildings in the old town and had a great lunch on the square. Later, we took a ferry from Paradiso to traffic-free Gandria and had a romantic
dinner at Ristorante Miralago.
Aug 1st, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Part 2) Wengen
The train ride from Lugano to Wengen was slow, with many stops. However, we loved the scenery as we approached the Berner Oberland. We stayed at the Caprice Hotel in Wengen- an excellent call! Great views, food, staff.We had a beautiful room with views of the falls in the valley
below. We were lazy upon arrival, and walked the entire town, taking in a light dinner in town. Next morning, we walked to the cable car to Mannlichen. Beautiful views! We were going to walk the long downhill to Wengen, but instead took the tough high trail to Kleine Scheidegg along the glacier crest. We chose not to spend the money for the Jungfraujoch train, the hike was a feat! We took a train down the hill and later enjoyed a gourmet dinner at Caprice. The chef made my meal vegetarian-friendly and it was superb! Later, we strolled up to the Regina Hotel, where I played piano
for a few hours to some fun tourists! Great people here. Next day, we had yummy breakfast at Caprice, then hiked down the steep hill to Lauterbrunnen. The falls were spectacular up close! We
walked about a mile to the Trrummelbach Falls inside the mountains- loved the experience! That is nature at it's finest. We walked to the tram to Gimmewald and were awestruck at it's beauty! There were about 5 people at the Pension having lunch. We had some Cardinal beer, huge salad and fabulous fondue as we looked at the incredible, pristine views of the mountains and heard nothing but cowbells and laughter from guests. This is one of the most serene and beautiful places I've ever seen! We hiked the steep hill to Murren- another lovely town. The meadows were colored by many wildflowers and the music of cowbells permeated the air. We walked the trek from Murren to Grutschalp-boring at first, but nice later with forests and meadows.Took the cable car back to Wengen, where they had a festival night for tourists. The band marched through town, musicians played, yodelers sang. Okay, it may have been touristy, but everyone was having fun and we enjoyed it! They served wine, beer and food,and we were finished early.
Part 3) Lake Leman/Vaud region
Oh, how hard it is to leave the Alps! However, I'm ready to speak my best (?) college French and enjoy some of the cuisine! We board the Golden Pass train to Montreux. I have made a reservation, but there was no need. We never had any problems finding seats on any trains.This is a beautiful trip, and we love the views as we approach Lake Leman (Geneva). We chose to stay out of the town a bit in Veytaux at Hotel Masson, a B&B built in the 1800's. Since we are hikers, we towed the luggage and walked, which was about a mile and a half and a bit much in the heat and crowds along the lake! (Once we arrived, we located the train and bus stops) We liked Masson a lot; it was quiet and the staff were warm and attentive. We had a beautiful loft room with a great view of the lake.
After arrival, we walked to the Chateau de Chillon where we first had an excellent lunch across the street at the Tavern. We were glad to have arrived late in the day- we were awed by the beauty of this place and wanted to appreciate it in relative silence. I don't understand why so many people
have to run, scream and chatter at a place like this! We managed to stay a few steps behind to experience it thoroughly. This is truly one of the highlights of a Switzerland trip, and we relished it.
After we left, we caught a ferry boat to the lovely town of Vevay, where we had a pizza and some local wine. We took the regional train back to the hotel. The next day, we took train to Chexbres and walked along the wine trail. This isn't California- you see the vines, read the signs and see
some of the wineries, but the tastings don't start until late in the afternoons. You can only do a few,
and they aren't free. The towns along the route were lovely! We took the advice of a Fodor's fan and
lunched at the Auberge de Rivaz. Oh my gosh! My hubby got the seafood plate, which they filled twice to his dismay. I guess it's a local joke, you must ask for only one serving! The food, service
and atmosphere here are wonderful! We enjoyed the villages of St Sapphorin, Epesses and Cully.
There was a go-cart race at Riex, complete with costumes, which was hysterical! We ended the
day with a tasting at Caveux in Cully where we had a nice time with owners. We skipped dinner, but had a lovely cheese plate in the gardens at Masson upon arrival.
The train ride from Lugano to Wengen was slow, with many stops. However, we loved the scenery as we approached the Berner Oberland. We stayed at the Caprice Hotel in Wengen- an excellent call! Great views, food, staff.We had a beautiful room with views of the falls in the valley
below. We were lazy upon arrival, and walked the entire town, taking in a light dinner in town. Next morning, we walked to the cable car to Mannlichen. Beautiful views! We were going to walk the long downhill to Wengen, but instead took the tough high trail to Kleine Scheidegg along the glacier crest. We chose not to spend the money for the Jungfraujoch train, the hike was a feat! We took a train down the hill and later enjoyed a gourmet dinner at Caprice. The chef made my meal vegetarian-friendly and it was superb! Later, we strolled up to the Regina Hotel, where I played piano
for a few hours to some fun tourists! Great people here. Next day, we had yummy breakfast at Caprice, then hiked down the steep hill to Lauterbrunnen. The falls were spectacular up close! We
walked about a mile to the Trrummelbach Falls inside the mountains- loved the experience! That is nature at it's finest. We walked to the tram to Gimmewald and were awestruck at it's beauty! There were about 5 people at the Pension having lunch. We had some Cardinal beer, huge salad and fabulous fondue as we looked at the incredible, pristine views of the mountains and heard nothing but cowbells and laughter from guests. This is one of the most serene and beautiful places I've ever seen! We hiked the steep hill to Murren- another lovely town. The meadows were colored by many wildflowers and the music of cowbells permeated the air. We walked the trek from Murren to Grutschalp-boring at first, but nice later with forests and meadows.Took the cable car back to Wengen, where they had a festival night for tourists. The band marched through town, musicians played, yodelers sang. Okay, it may have been touristy, but everyone was having fun and we enjoyed it! They served wine, beer and food,and we were finished early.
Part 3) Lake Leman/Vaud region
Oh, how hard it is to leave the Alps! However, I'm ready to speak my best (?) college French and enjoy some of the cuisine! We board the Golden Pass train to Montreux. I have made a reservation, but there was no need. We never had any problems finding seats on any trains.This is a beautiful trip, and we love the views as we approach Lake Leman (Geneva). We chose to stay out of the town a bit in Veytaux at Hotel Masson, a B&B built in the 1800's. Since we are hikers, we towed the luggage and walked, which was about a mile and a half and a bit much in the heat and crowds along the lake! (Once we arrived, we located the train and bus stops) We liked Masson a lot; it was quiet and the staff were warm and attentive. We had a beautiful loft room with a great view of the lake.
After arrival, we walked to the Chateau de Chillon where we first had an excellent lunch across the street at the Tavern. We were glad to have arrived late in the day- we were awed by the beauty of this place and wanted to appreciate it in relative silence. I don't understand why so many people
have to run, scream and chatter at a place like this! We managed to stay a few steps behind to experience it thoroughly. This is truly one of the highlights of a Switzerland trip, and we relished it.
After we left, we caught a ferry boat to the lovely town of Vevay, where we had a pizza and some local wine. We took the regional train back to the hotel. The next day, we took train to Chexbres and walked along the wine trail. This isn't California- you see the vines, read the signs and see
some of the wineries, but the tastings don't start until late in the afternoons. You can only do a few,
and they aren't free. The towns along the route were lovely! We took the advice of a Fodor's fan and
lunched at the Auberge de Rivaz. Oh my gosh! My hubby got the seafood plate, which they filled twice to his dismay. I guess it's a local joke, you must ask for only one serving! The food, service
and atmosphere here are wonderful! We enjoyed the villages of St Sapphorin, Epesses and Cully.
There was a go-cart race at Riex, complete with costumes, which was hysterical! We ended the
day with a tasting at Caveux in Cully where we had a nice time with owners. We skipped dinner, but had a lovely cheese plate in the gardens at Masson upon arrival.
Aug 1st, 2005, 11:45 PM
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Part 4) Geneva
Bad call. I loved this city in 1973, but it's changed. Graffiti everywhere, lots of traffic, too many people and it was HOT. We stayed at Bell L'Esperance in Old Town. Great location, but we couldn't get any sleep because of the noise on the streets, and you had to open windows to get air. We did a bit of the city the first day, but were itching to leave. The next day, we took a train out of the city and hiked from near Bulle to Gruyeres. Great call, we had a peaceful dinner on our last night
overlooking the beautiful valley in the shadow of the castle. We didn't care if we got back to Geneva, however we walked to Chateau D'Oex and (barely) caught a late train home. The next day we caught the train to airport and took a very nice Air France flight home to Atlanta, where Delta messed up again and made us wait 2 hours for a flight crew. Finally got back to Louisville, where...
(final thoughts)
We loved the train travel and the Swiss pass. So easy to use transportation. The people were as
lovely as I remembered, as was the scenery and countryside. Why can't the US be this clean? Why can't our citizens be as active? (You don't see obese people here!) However, they smoke too much and allow it everywhere. There are too many lovely small Swiss towns to waste time in cities- of course, that's just my preference. We are returning next year and are planning on backpacking through the Engadine and through many small villages. Oh, and I'm taking a German class! Pack light, use travel clothing which you can wash and dry quickly.Switzerland isn't cheap, but there are ways to save money. And I know why so many people live here- it's heaven! I wish we had 4 weeks, but we'll just have to keep returning!
Bad call. I loved this city in 1973, but it's changed. Graffiti everywhere, lots of traffic, too many people and it was HOT. We stayed at Bell L'Esperance in Old Town. Great location, but we couldn't get any sleep because of the noise on the streets, and you had to open windows to get air. We did a bit of the city the first day, but were itching to leave. The next day, we took a train out of the city and hiked from near Bulle to Gruyeres. Great call, we had a peaceful dinner on our last night
overlooking the beautiful valley in the shadow of the castle. We didn't care if we got back to Geneva, however we walked to Chateau D'Oex and (barely) caught a late train home. The next day we caught the train to airport and took a very nice Air France flight home to Atlanta, where Delta messed up again and made us wait 2 hours for a flight crew. Finally got back to Louisville, where...
(final thoughts)
We loved the train travel and the Swiss pass. So easy to use transportation. The people were as
lovely as I remembered, as was the scenery and countryside. Why can't the US be this clean? Why can't our citizens be as active? (You don't see obese people here!) However, they smoke too much and allow it everywhere. There are too many lovely small Swiss towns to waste time in cities- of course, that's just my preference. We are returning next year and are planning on backpacking through the Engadine and through many small villages. Oh, and I'm taking a German class! Pack light, use travel clothing which you can wash and dry quickly.Switzerland isn't cheap, but there are ways to save money. And I know why so many people live here- it's heaven! I wish we had 4 weeks, but we'll just have to keep returning!
Aug 2nd, 2005, 03:08 AM
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LLindaC!!!!!!!
Stunning report! What a delight, to visit some of my favorite places for breakfast!
I'm getting ready for my next trip to Leman (staying in Villneueve on the other side of Chillon) in Sept, and your trip report has me *really* ready to go!
I'm also thinking of staying at the Caprice in Feb, so your report is really helpful!
Thanks loads!
s
Stunning report! What a delight, to visit some of my favorite places for breakfast!
I'm getting ready for my next trip to Leman (staying in Villneueve on the other side of Chillon) in Sept, and your trip report has me *really* ready to go!
I'm also thinking of staying at the Caprice in Feb, so your report is really helpful!
Thanks loads!
s
Aug 2nd, 2005, 05:07 AM
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I second S's thank you for a virtual trip to our favorite places while we drink our morning coffee. You've made my day! Morcote, Gandria, Rivaz, St. Saphorin, Cully, Chateau d'Oex! Be still my heart. J.
Aug 2nd, 2005, 08:07 AM
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LOL- I can't get my coffee strong enough anymore! I didn't mean to knock overweight Americans, sorry if it sounded that way. I just enjoy seeing really old, old people hiking, walking and biking. Very inspirational! Now, can anyone suggest some great places? I'll start..Ardez, Guarda, Zuoz, Wiessen, Ftan? Keep them coming!
Aug 2nd, 2005, 10:45 AM
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Linda, thank you for report, wish I was there! Most of the places are familiar, and I like the way you describe them.
And yes, strong coffee... that's why they are fit - after this coffee try to sit still LOL
And yes, strong coffee... that's why they are fit - after this coffee try to sit still LOL
Aug 2nd, 2005, 11:37 AM
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Linda - what a wonderful trip report. It made me virtually travelling with you and brought back so many wonderful memories.
I, too, enjoyed Carona more than Lugano and the smaller towns more than the cities in general. And I also have stayed in the Masson and enjoyed it very much! Especially the old world charm, the two salons, the small garden and the sunset views ...
Oh did you know what a box you opened when asking about the Engadine? ;-) (btw, Wiesen is not in the Engadine [but near Davos], I am wondering which guide book mentions it since it appear quite often here.)
First I'd like to encourage you to do a search for my trip reports from previous years here; in case the search engine here works do a search for "Engadine" or "Scuol" or "Silvaplana".
Another ressource are my two pages on VT about the Engadine:
For Scuol and the Lower Engadine:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8885/
For St. Moritz and the Upper Engadine:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a88f9/
You will find plenty of tips there (and pictures!).
For now I'd like to recommend Scuol, Sent, Ardez and Guarda in the Lower Engadine; Guarda being a "must". For "off the beaten path" visit the tiny village Vna and hike to Zuort (maybe continue to Sent). Another option is the small (former mining) hamlet S-charl, accessible from Scuol by bus with unbelievably beautiful Swiss pine-tree woods nearby.
In the Upper Engadine you'll rarely find such quaint villages like in the Lower Engadine. Zuoz is very beautiful, and relatively unspoilt are S-chanf, La Punt-Chamuesch, Madulain ... all the others are more or less mixed up with grand 19th century hotels and rather ugly apartment blocks (St. Moritz in particular).
But the scenery! The lakes and glaciers make it! Visit Sils and the Fex Valley, Pontresina and the Roseg Valley, hike from Muottas Muragl to Alp Languard ...
And don't miss the southern neighbouring valleys, Val Poschiavo (Bernina Express) and Val Bregaglia (Soglio and other picturesque villages).
I better stop here ;-)
Ingo
I, too, enjoyed Carona more than Lugano and the smaller towns more than the cities in general. And I also have stayed in the Masson and enjoyed it very much! Especially the old world charm, the two salons, the small garden and the sunset views ...
Oh did you know what a box you opened when asking about the Engadine? ;-) (btw, Wiesen is not in the Engadine [but near Davos], I am wondering which guide book mentions it since it appear quite often here.)
First I'd like to encourage you to do a search for my trip reports from previous years here; in case the search engine here works do a search for "Engadine" or "Scuol" or "Silvaplana".
Another ressource are my two pages on VT about the Engadine:
For Scuol and the Lower Engadine:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8885/
For St. Moritz and the Upper Engadine:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a88f9/
You will find plenty of tips there (and pictures!).
For now I'd like to recommend Scuol, Sent, Ardez and Guarda in the Lower Engadine; Guarda being a "must". For "off the beaten path" visit the tiny village Vna and hike to Zuort (maybe continue to Sent). Another option is the small (former mining) hamlet S-charl, accessible from Scuol by bus with unbelievably beautiful Swiss pine-tree woods nearby.
In the Upper Engadine you'll rarely find such quaint villages like in the Lower Engadine. Zuoz is very beautiful, and relatively unspoilt are S-chanf, La Punt-Chamuesch, Madulain ... all the others are more or less mixed up with grand 19th century hotels and rather ugly apartment blocks (St. Moritz in particular).
But the scenery! The lakes and glaciers make it! Visit Sils and the Fex Valley, Pontresina and the Roseg Valley, hike from Muottas Muragl to Alp Languard ...
And don't miss the southern neighbouring valleys, Val Poschiavo (Bernina Express) and Val Bregaglia (Soglio and other picturesque villages).
I better stop here ;-)
Ingo
Aug 2nd, 2005, 12:33 PM
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Hi Again,
Hey Ingo -- love to see you posting!
LLindaC, I can't add much to the spots that Ingo has recommended; he visits the Engadin often and is a real expert on the area.
But, since you mention that you're fit and active, I'd like to recommend that you look into bicycling some while in the Engadin. With a friend, I biked around the lakes at St Moritz and on another day biked the Inn valley (from Zuoz to Zernez and then from Bever to Zuoz). Both were fantastic days, among the best travel days ever!! Ingo has also told me that the trip from Scuol to Guarda is a good cycling trip (have I remembered that right?).
Here's a link to those photos: http://community.webshots.com/album/79095617dhIGaT
s
Hey Ingo -- love to see you posting!
LLindaC, I can't add much to the spots that Ingo has recommended; he visits the Engadin often and is a real expert on the area.
But, since you mention that you're fit and active, I'd like to recommend that you look into bicycling some while in the Engadin. With a friend, I biked around the lakes at St Moritz and on another day biked the Inn valley (from Zuoz to Zernez and then from Bever to Zuoz). Both were fantastic days, among the best travel days ever!! Ingo has also told me that the trip from Scuol to Guarda is a good cycling trip (have I remembered that right?).
Here's a link to those photos: http://community.webshots.com/album/79095617dhIGaT
s
Aug 2nd, 2005, 12:55 PM
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Too late! I've read German Eagle before, LOL! Great job, I have Scuol valley on my screensaver. Thanks for the tips, both of you. Yes, I think biking is on the agenda. My husband and I ride frequently, though it's road biking. Are there bike trails or bike lanes? I know it's a lot safer there, as they respect cyclists. The Inn valley looks tempting, indeed! Did you rent your bikes through an agency or at a train station? I'm used to wearing clip shoes/pedals, is that an option? Ingo, I hope I can find your trip reports here. The search engine here is pretty bad.We aren't set on staying in any one area, but think that with only 12 days it would be hard to do the Engadine areas and area near Zermatt. Always open for good suggestions!
Aug 2nd, 2005, 01:07 PM
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Hi LLindaC,
We rented bikes from the St Moritz train station. You can read & price & reserve your bikes at www.rent-a-bike.ch. I've thought about taking my clips along and asking if I could just change them out -- but then I realized it's such gentle cycling that clips really are overkill.
The cycling we did was on separate paths -- if you go to my photo album, you'll see it; at many places the path parallels the road. At some spots you're on the road for a few blocks, but not for long, and it's not nearly as scarey as being passed by an American construction truck on the backroads here!! Anyway, that biking path runs from St Moritz to Innsbruck along the Inn River!
Hope you enjoy it!
s
We rented bikes from the St Moritz train station. You can read & price & reserve your bikes at www.rent-a-bike.ch. I've thought about taking my clips along and asking if I could just change them out -- but then I realized it's such gentle cycling that clips really are overkill.
The cycling we did was on separate paths -- if you go to my photo album, you'll see it; at many places the path parallels the road. At some spots you're on the road for a few blocks, but not for long, and it's not nearly as scarey as being passed by an American construction truck on the backroads here!! Anyway, that biking path runs from St Moritz to Innsbruck along the Inn River!
Hope you enjoy it!
s
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