Paris-Switzerland-Lake Como - just back, fabulous trip!
Sep 20th, 2003 | 06:16 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 0
Paris-Switzerland-Lake Como - just back, fabulous trip!
Thanks to all for your help this summer, answering my many stupid questions (and a few intelligent ones!)
My hubby and I took this trip for our 40th anniversary, 1st time without another couple.
And we came back still married and still in love!
Flew into Paris for 3 nights. Took the RER from CDG and enjoyed a fast trip into town. Stayed at Hotel Cluny Square at corner of St. Germain and St. Michel. Terrific location, but the 1st night, they had us up in the rafters. Beautiful views of the Eiffel Tower and the towers of Notre Dame, but with the slanted ceilings, my husband looked like Quasimodo. And we won't even mention how he had to stand to use the bathroom!
So we switched to a "normal" room for the next 2 nights. Tariff was 125 euros a night. Rooms were very small, beds OK, A/C gave air circulation but not really cool air.
Really enjoyed the great array of places to eat nearby, and the easy walk to major sites.
Bought the 2-day ticket for L'Open Bus Tour, 27 euros each. Just walked to Notre Dame, paid the driver in cash, and we were set. Saved our feet a lot of pain, although we still did a ton of walking. Used it to get to Sacre Coeur, Musee d'Orsay and Luxemborg Gardens. Otherwise, just enjoyed the rides. Should add, we've been to Paris once before, so these were the main sights we were interested in this time.
Did walk to Samarataine Dept. Store to take in the rooftop view, suffered through a VERY crowded, stifling and long elevator ride to the top, only to find out it's closed for remodeling. So beware.
Went to the Gregorian mass at Notre Dame on Sunday AM. With all the incense rising from the altar, and the unbelievable organ sounds and glorious voices, it was nearly surreal.
Also went to a concert at St. Chapelle. Was so concerned about getting tickets, and we just walked there the day before and had no trouble getting them. But they don't take credit cards, so have the euros ready. 25 each and well worth it. We heard the Vivaldi concert by les Archets des Paris, superbly talented musicians and an unforgetable night!
We ate most meals in the areas around our hotel. We ate at Demi Lune, recommended here, good meal, VERY entertaining waiter, 39 euros for 2 with 1/2 carafe of wine. (We'd already had a full one at an outdoor cafe, watching the dueling tuba bands near St. Michel!)
Enjoyed some talented singers/guitarists at Le Cluny Taverne on Rue de la Harp that night.
Had an excellent meal in beautiful surroundings at Chez Clement, on the little street behind St. Michel fountain. Fine service, as well. With bottle of white wine, bill was 45 euros for 2.
Some impressions:
Where did all the graffitti come from? I was nearly afraid to stand still, for fear I'd get spray-painted! Such a shame.
We felt very safe at all times, never once felt threatened or uncomfortable.
Everyone was extremely friendly, even the waiters!
The city looked so clean - we saw the street cleaners out every morning.
Still can't get used to the boy and girl bathroom thing. I stood in a long line of women in one at the Musee d'Orsay, only to come out of the stall and see men using urinals right across from me!!!! C'est la vie!
Anyway, on to Switzerland in the next post. I'd be happy to answer any questions. Hope I'm not boring everyone!
Joyce
My hubby and I took this trip for our 40th anniversary, 1st time without another couple.
And we came back still married and still in love!
Flew into Paris for 3 nights. Took the RER from CDG and enjoyed a fast trip into town. Stayed at Hotel Cluny Square at corner of St. Germain and St. Michel. Terrific location, but the 1st night, they had us up in the rafters. Beautiful views of the Eiffel Tower and the towers of Notre Dame, but with the slanted ceilings, my husband looked like Quasimodo. And we won't even mention how he had to stand to use the bathroom!
So we switched to a "normal" room for the next 2 nights. Tariff was 125 euros a night. Rooms were very small, beds OK, A/C gave air circulation but not really cool air.
Really enjoyed the great array of places to eat nearby, and the easy walk to major sites.
Bought the 2-day ticket for L'Open Bus Tour, 27 euros each. Just walked to Notre Dame, paid the driver in cash, and we were set. Saved our feet a lot of pain, although we still did a ton of walking. Used it to get to Sacre Coeur, Musee d'Orsay and Luxemborg Gardens. Otherwise, just enjoyed the rides. Should add, we've been to Paris once before, so these were the main sights we were interested in this time.
Did walk to Samarataine Dept. Store to take in the rooftop view, suffered through a VERY crowded, stifling and long elevator ride to the top, only to find out it's closed for remodeling. So beware.
Went to the Gregorian mass at Notre Dame on Sunday AM. With all the incense rising from the altar, and the unbelievable organ sounds and glorious voices, it was nearly surreal.
Also went to a concert at St. Chapelle. Was so concerned about getting tickets, and we just walked there the day before and had no trouble getting them. But they don't take credit cards, so have the euros ready. 25 each and well worth it. We heard the Vivaldi concert by les Archets des Paris, superbly talented musicians and an unforgetable night!
We ate most meals in the areas around our hotel. We ate at Demi Lune, recommended here, good meal, VERY entertaining waiter, 39 euros for 2 with 1/2 carafe of wine. (We'd already had a full one at an outdoor cafe, watching the dueling tuba bands near St. Michel!)
Enjoyed some talented singers/guitarists at Le Cluny Taverne on Rue de la Harp that night.
Had an excellent meal in beautiful surroundings at Chez Clement, on the little street behind St. Michel fountain. Fine service, as well. With bottle of white wine, bill was 45 euros for 2.
Some impressions:
Where did all the graffitti come from? I was nearly afraid to stand still, for fear I'd get spray-painted! Such a shame.
We felt very safe at all times, never once felt threatened or uncomfortable.
Everyone was extremely friendly, even the waiters!
The city looked so clean - we saw the street cleaners out every morning.
Still can't get used to the boy and girl bathroom thing. I stood in a long line of women in one at the Musee d'Orsay, only to come out of the stall and see men using urinals right across from me!!!! C'est la vie!
Anyway, on to Switzerland in the next post. I'd be happy to answer any questions. Hope I'm not boring everyone!
Joyce
Sep 21st, 2003 | 07:32 AM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 0
Paris-Switzerland-Lake Como Part 2
Author: Hagan
Date: 09/20/2003, 10:52 pm
Message: We took metro to Gare de Lyon early, around 7 AM, to avoid the crowds and had no problem.
Took the TGV to Geneva, had purchased PREM tickets in US 2 months prior for 25 euros each. What a glorious way to travel!
From Geneva on, we used our Swiss Passes (4-day), and were just awed by the unfolding panoramas on the way to Interlaken and finally to Lauterbrunnen. We had no idea the lakes would be the colors of Caribbean seas, and in some places, the train glides so close you feel like you could reach out and scoop up the crystal-clear water.
Just a 2-minute walk from the station and we were at our hotel, the Silberhorn. Our jaws dropped when we walked into our room. We had a corner unit on the 4th floor, with wrap-around picture windows and a balcony overlooking the gorgeous Lauterbrunnen Valley and the Staubbach Falls. Our room was more like a suite, with a king bed, sofa, table and chairs, very spacious. The tariff was 160 CHF a night, including breakfast. We opted to dine there at night for a discount - 25 CHF each. This would turn out to be one of our best decisions of the trip.
The weather was great that day - mostly sunny and warm, with some puffy white clouds. We were so overwhelmed with where we were, that we could barely take ourselves off the balcony! But we managed to take a walk down to the falls, and bought a fine Swiss wine at a little wine shop to bring back to our room.
After our first dinner at the hotel that night, we knew our waistlines were in trouble. 5-course gourmet meals, including a salad buffet of German-style potato salads, marinated white asparagus, eggplant sauteed in butter and onions, I could go on and on. And those enormous loaves of fresh dark bread! That night, we also had smoked fresh filet of lake trout (appetizer), creamy tomato soup, pork cordon bleu, string beans wrapped in bacon, and for dessert, fresh blackberries and raspberries atop a thin cake with custard filling. We're stuffed! Better do a LOT of walking tomorrow. To be continued..........
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Author: Hagan
Date: 09/21/2003, 10:43 am
Message: Topping for JMW
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: Hagan
Date: 09/20/2003, 10:52 pm
Message: We took metro to Gare de Lyon early, around 7 AM, to avoid the crowds and had no problem.
Took the TGV to Geneva, had purchased PREM tickets in US 2 months prior for 25 euros each. What a glorious way to travel!
From Geneva on, we used our Swiss Passes (4-day), and were just awed by the unfolding panoramas on the way to Interlaken and finally to Lauterbrunnen. We had no idea the lakes would be the colors of Caribbean seas, and in some places, the train glides so close you feel like you could reach out and scoop up the crystal-clear water.
Just a 2-minute walk from the station and we were at our hotel, the Silberhorn. Our jaws dropped when we walked into our room. We had a corner unit on the 4th floor, with wrap-around picture windows and a balcony overlooking the gorgeous Lauterbrunnen Valley and the Staubbach Falls. Our room was more like a suite, with a king bed, sofa, table and chairs, very spacious. The tariff was 160 CHF a night, including breakfast. We opted to dine there at night for a discount - 25 CHF each. This would turn out to be one of our best decisions of the trip.
The weather was great that day - mostly sunny and warm, with some puffy white clouds. We were so overwhelmed with where we were, that we could barely take ourselves off the balcony! But we managed to take a walk down to the falls, and bought a fine Swiss wine at a little wine shop to bring back to our room.
After our first dinner at the hotel that night, we knew our waistlines were in trouble. 5-course gourmet meals, including a salad buffet of German-style potato salads, marinated white asparagus, eggplant sauteed in butter and onions, I could go on and on. And those enormous loaves of fresh dark bread! That night, we also had smoked fresh filet of lake trout (appetizer), creamy tomato soup, pork cordon bleu, string beans wrapped in bacon, and for dessert, fresh blackberries and raspberries atop a thin cake with custard filling. We're stuffed! Better do a LOT of walking tomorrow. To be continued..........
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Author: Hagan
Date: 09/21/2003, 10:43 am
Message: Topping for JMW
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Sep 21st, 2003 | 07:36 AM
#4
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 0
Switzerland Trip Continued
Author: Hagan
Date: 09/20/2003, 11:32 pm
Message: Day 2 of our stay in Switzerland, we were socked in by clouds and light rain. Where'd the mountains go?
We decided to use our Swiss Passes and go to Luzerne. Enjoyed the trip and had a good time exploring the old streets. Returned to Lauterbrunnen in late afternoon, still gray and cloudy, cool temps. After another great dinner, it felt good to snuggle under the eiderdown comforters on our beds, although we did have to keep our balcony door open. Boy, those things insulate!
The next morning is still cloudy, but a little brighter. We're off to Grindelwald @ 8:35. Would like to get some souvenirs, but are finding things in Switzerland VERY expensive. Took cablecar to Pfinstegge, where I was hoping to go sledging, but the run was closed due to wet conditions. Too cloudy to go to First, so we head back for Lauterbrunnen and then to Wengen.
Well, we TRIED to go back to Lauterbrunnen. After a 1/2 hour wait for the train at Zweilitschinen, we thought we were on our way, only to notice the same scenery we had already passed. We had gotten on the wrong part of the train, and when it split (which we were unaware it did), we ended up headed back to Grindelwald! Oh Lord!
Got off at some tiny hamlet in the middle of nowhere, train station's closed up, only a few hikers passing by. Seems the train that pulled away right before we stopped was the one we needed, and the next one going back was in one hour. There's a good-size restaurant with a "beer" sign across the way, but it's locked up. Of course, it's lunch-time, and we're VERY thirsty.
But we were soon joined by some British hikers needing to rest on a bench, and when they heard our tale, we all had a good laugh.
I mean, we were temporarily stuck, but we were in the ALPS, for gosh sake.
After losing 2 hours, we finally made it back to Lauterbrunnen and on up to Wengen. The clouds were beginning to part a little and we could see some peaks, so we decided to take the cable up to Mannlichen. Brrr, it's cold up there. By this time, we were dying of thirst and saw a large restaurant a short walk along the ridge. We started walking and were soon enveloped by clouds so dense we lost sight of the building! What an incredible feeling. But our beer radar guided us in.
Breathtaking views of mountains and valleys on the way down. Had hoped to get to Schilthorn, but the weather's just not going to be clear enough to attempt it this trip.
After dinner, we decided to take the funicular up to Meurren, just to check it out. Beautiful vistas in the waning daylight, with glimpses of a full moon. Asked the conductor what time the next train went back, and he curtly told us to check the schedule on the platform. It was now 8:30, and the schedule said trains back to Lauterbrunnen would depart at 9, 9:30, 10 and 10:30. No problem.
Meurren was basically shut down, except for a few lights coming from little restaurants and hotels. But there was still enough daylight to see the mountains right in your face! Incredible. We decided to take the 9:00 train back. Sat in the deserted station from 8:45 until 9:15, no train. Hmm...
I ran across the street into a restaurant, a little panicked. In broken English, the proprietress said "I guess they not running anymore tonight". WHAT?! An American woman came over and said we could still take the Schilthorn cable down to Stechelberg, then the bus into town, if the bus was still running.
As hubby and I plodded down the black sreets on the edge of the mountain, searching for the cable station, we looked at each other and burst out laughing. We looked like that married couple on last year's Amazing Race, trudging through the Alps. We found the station, of course had just missed one going down, would have to wait an hour. Good excuse for a beer inside the cozy pub at the station. The cable driver down was also the bus driver - the last one for the night! We finally made it back to our hotel at 11 PM, sat on our balcony and felt great relief.
We watched as the full moon rose above the Alps, illuminating the peaks and the few whispy clouds that clung to them like angelhair on a Christmas tree. Ah, a perfect day. We definitely want to return to this spot someday. Tomorrow, we're off to Lake Como.
Joyce
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author: Hagan
Date: 09/20/2003, 11:32 pm
Message: Day 2 of our stay in Switzerland, we were socked in by clouds and light rain. Where'd the mountains go?
We decided to use our Swiss Passes and go to Luzerne. Enjoyed the trip and had a good time exploring the old streets. Returned to Lauterbrunnen in late afternoon, still gray and cloudy, cool temps. After another great dinner, it felt good to snuggle under the eiderdown comforters on our beds, although we did have to keep our balcony door open. Boy, those things insulate!
The next morning is still cloudy, but a little brighter. We're off to Grindelwald @ 8:35. Would like to get some souvenirs, but are finding things in Switzerland VERY expensive. Took cablecar to Pfinstegge, where I was hoping to go sledging, but the run was closed due to wet conditions. Too cloudy to go to First, so we head back for Lauterbrunnen and then to Wengen.
Well, we TRIED to go back to Lauterbrunnen. After a 1/2 hour wait for the train at Zweilitschinen, we thought we were on our way, only to notice the same scenery we had already passed. We had gotten on the wrong part of the train, and when it split (which we were unaware it did), we ended up headed back to Grindelwald! Oh Lord!
Got off at some tiny hamlet in the middle of nowhere, train station's closed up, only a few hikers passing by. Seems the train that pulled away right before we stopped was the one we needed, and the next one going back was in one hour. There's a good-size restaurant with a "beer" sign across the way, but it's locked up. Of course, it's lunch-time, and we're VERY thirsty.
But we were soon joined by some British hikers needing to rest on a bench, and when they heard our tale, we all had a good laugh.
I mean, we were temporarily stuck, but we were in the ALPS, for gosh sake.
After losing 2 hours, we finally made it back to Lauterbrunnen and on up to Wengen. The clouds were beginning to part a little and we could see some peaks, so we decided to take the cable up to Mannlichen. Brrr, it's cold up there. By this time, we were dying of thirst and saw a large restaurant a short walk along the ridge. We started walking and were soon enveloped by clouds so dense we lost sight of the building! What an incredible feeling. But our beer radar guided us in.
Breathtaking views of mountains and valleys on the way down. Had hoped to get to Schilthorn, but the weather's just not going to be clear enough to attempt it this trip.
After dinner, we decided to take the funicular up to Meurren, just to check it out. Beautiful vistas in the waning daylight, with glimpses of a full moon. Asked the conductor what time the next train went back, and he curtly told us to check the schedule on the platform. It was now 8:30, and the schedule said trains back to Lauterbrunnen would depart at 9, 9:30, 10 and 10:30. No problem.
Meurren was basically shut down, except for a few lights coming from little restaurants and hotels. But there was still enough daylight to see the mountains right in your face! Incredible. We decided to take the 9:00 train back. Sat in the deserted station from 8:45 until 9:15, no train. Hmm...
I ran across the street into a restaurant, a little panicked. In broken English, the proprietress said "I guess they not running anymore tonight". WHAT?! An American woman came over and said we could still take the Schilthorn cable down to Stechelberg, then the bus into town, if the bus was still running.
As hubby and I plodded down the black sreets on the edge of the mountain, searching for the cable station, we looked at each other and burst out laughing. We looked like that married couple on last year's Amazing Race, trudging through the Alps. We found the station, of course had just missed one going down, would have to wait an hour. Good excuse for a beer inside the cozy pub at the station. The cable driver down was also the bus driver - the last one for the night! We finally made it back to our hotel at 11 PM, sat on our balcony and felt great relief.
We watched as the full moon rose above the Alps, illuminating the peaks and the few whispy clouds that clung to them like angelhair on a Christmas tree. Ah, a perfect day. We definitely want to return to this spot someday. Tomorrow, we're off to Lake Como.
Joyce
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Sep 21st, 2003 | 08:40 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 0
On to Lake Como.......
Up early, walked across to train station and bought supplement for Italian portion of trip - 64 CHF for to to Varenna.
The scenery from the train was mesmerizing, but between Spiez and Brig it became absolutely breathtaking. You travel through long tunnels, only to emerge to these amazing sights, almost felt like we were soaring in a plane. And the sun's out now!
Only had 15 minutes between trains in Milan, and the train to Varenna was so crowded that hubby had to sit in passage between cars with the luggage.
After a short walk down to our hotel, Albergo Olivedo, we're shown to our room. Up 60 steps, but worth it! The view left us speechless. A beautiful day, sparkling, breezy, in the low 80's. We have 2 sets of French doors and a small balcony, inlaid hardwood floors, a large room with spacious, newly-remodeled bath.
But what really got us was this huge basket full of vintage wines, prosecco, cheeses, candies, jars filled with pate, fresh tuna spears and cherries, and much more. I thought, How wonderful is this hotel, to have a basket like this waiting for us!
There was a note inside, and when we pulled it out, we saw that it was from our 3 daughters, wishing us a happy anniversary and telling us how much they loved us. Unbelievable!!!! I immediately started sobbing, feeling so guilty for having such a wonderful time while our girls spent so much effort and money on us. But we also felt so loved, it made us cry even more.
After a toast with one of the wines, we set off to explore the little town. We walked to the town square, along the lakeside promenade, and just sat on benches, absorbed the views and enjoyed life.
Dinner is mandatory at the Olivedo, but it became a fun part of our stay as we made friends with fellow diners. The homemade ravioli in butter and sage was my favorite dish, and the food was good but not too varied. Would liked to have seen more pasta offerings. Our room with balcony and 2 meals was 160 euros per night.
The second day, we bought a 1-day mid-lake pass (7.50 euros each) for the ferry service and headed to Bellagio.
Enjoyed the wonderful little shops lining the steep streets. Packed a tote bag with goodies and bottle of wine from our basket, and had a picnic on a bench overlooking the lake, near the town center. Just passed the bottle back and forth, it was wonderful!
Actually bought most of our souvenirs here.
Ferried back to Varenna to drop off our haul, then headed to Mennagio. It has a totally different feel, more urban I think, and a little spread out. But the promenade along the lake is lovely. Sat on a bench and had gelato! Back at our hotel, had Laura (owner/manager/delightful gestapo) chill our prosecco for after dinner. Sat drinking it on our balcony, with a full moon over Lake Como.
Day 3 in Varenna, decided to try the walk up to Castle Vezio. We walked 2 minutes, then sat on rocks and rested 3 minutes! It was SO steep. Finally made it to the top, to incredible 360 degree views. Just so gorgeous. Make sure you bring some euros, I think it was 4 each, or you'll miss the views!
Tried a different path down, thinking it would be easier. Wrong! Very steep, loose rocks, narrow paths, but definitely panoramic.
This path led us right to the Monastery Gardens, went inside for 2 euros each. Definitely worth a visit, beautiful camera shots. Headed down to the lake and Nilus Bar for white pizzas and beer and ran into friends from our hotel. Sat for over 2 hours, eating and sharing stories of travel adventures.
Shared the rest of our cheese, breadsticks and such with friends at hotel out on the terrace before dinner, then ate our meal out there. Wonderful night. Tomorrow, we fly back to Paris for one last night before flight home.
Up early, walked across to train station and bought supplement for Italian portion of trip - 64 CHF for to to Varenna.
The scenery from the train was mesmerizing, but between Spiez and Brig it became absolutely breathtaking. You travel through long tunnels, only to emerge to these amazing sights, almost felt like we were soaring in a plane. And the sun's out now!
Only had 15 minutes between trains in Milan, and the train to Varenna was so crowded that hubby had to sit in passage between cars with the luggage.
After a short walk down to our hotel, Albergo Olivedo, we're shown to our room. Up 60 steps, but worth it! The view left us speechless. A beautiful day, sparkling, breezy, in the low 80's. We have 2 sets of French doors and a small balcony, inlaid hardwood floors, a large room with spacious, newly-remodeled bath.
But what really got us was this huge basket full of vintage wines, prosecco, cheeses, candies, jars filled with pate, fresh tuna spears and cherries, and much more. I thought, How wonderful is this hotel, to have a basket like this waiting for us!
There was a note inside, and when we pulled it out, we saw that it was from our 3 daughters, wishing us a happy anniversary and telling us how much they loved us. Unbelievable!!!! I immediately started sobbing, feeling so guilty for having such a wonderful time while our girls spent so much effort and money on us. But we also felt so loved, it made us cry even more.
After a toast with one of the wines, we set off to explore the little town. We walked to the town square, along the lakeside promenade, and just sat on benches, absorbed the views and enjoyed life.
Dinner is mandatory at the Olivedo, but it became a fun part of our stay as we made friends with fellow diners. The homemade ravioli in butter and sage was my favorite dish, and the food was good but not too varied. Would liked to have seen more pasta offerings. Our room with balcony and 2 meals was 160 euros per night.
The second day, we bought a 1-day mid-lake pass (7.50 euros each) for the ferry service and headed to Bellagio.
Enjoyed the wonderful little shops lining the steep streets. Packed a tote bag with goodies and bottle of wine from our basket, and had a picnic on a bench overlooking the lake, near the town center. Just passed the bottle back and forth, it was wonderful!
Actually bought most of our souvenirs here.
Ferried back to Varenna to drop off our haul, then headed to Mennagio. It has a totally different feel, more urban I think, and a little spread out. But the promenade along the lake is lovely. Sat on a bench and had gelato! Back at our hotel, had Laura (owner/manager/delightful gestapo) chill our prosecco for after dinner. Sat drinking it on our balcony, with a full moon over Lake Como.
Day 3 in Varenna, decided to try the walk up to Castle Vezio. We walked 2 minutes, then sat on rocks and rested 3 minutes! It was SO steep. Finally made it to the top, to incredible 360 degree views. Just so gorgeous. Make sure you bring some euros, I think it was 4 each, or you'll miss the views!
Tried a different path down, thinking it would be easier. Wrong! Very steep, loose rocks, narrow paths, but definitely panoramic.
This path led us right to the Monastery Gardens, went inside for 2 euros each. Definitely worth a visit, beautiful camera shots. Headed down to the lake and Nilus Bar for white pizzas and beer and ran into friends from our hotel. Sat for over 2 hours, eating and sharing stories of travel adventures.
Shared the rest of our cheese, breadsticks and such with friends at hotel out on the terrace before dinner, then ate our meal out there. Wonderful night. Tomorrow, we fly back to Paris for one last night before flight home.
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Sep 21st, 2003 | 09:06 AM
#8
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 817
Likes: 0
Back to Paris......
Took 8:36 train to Milan, and it was filled with people in red Ferrari shirts. Seems there's a race in Monza today. From Milano Centrale, took shuttle to Linate, 2 euros each. Pleasant, organized airport, SO much better than CDG.
Flew EasyJet for 20 euros each, just hoped the plane had wings for that price! Smooth flight, flew over the Alps and could actually see the rivers entering the lakes, just fascinating! One hour later, we're back in Paris.
Took RER C into town for 6.40 euros each. We're staying at a different hotel, thought it'd be fun to have one more new experience to look forward to. It's the Europe St. Severin, just off St. Michel on rue St. Severin. It's just 50 steps from our metro stop, and very charming. Our room is tiny, but well-appointed, with A/C, mini-bar and lovely little balcony. At 115 euros a night, we feel it's a good deal, as we're only a short block from the Seine and in the middle of everything. The hotel also has a bar and a nice-looking restaurant.
After a visit to St. Severin Church, we took a seat outdoors at Le Depart St. Michel and I had my first Kir. Oh my, where have you been all my life?! I had a peach one, (or two). Ate dinner at Le Bistrot 30, at 30 Rue St. Severin. Had a really fantastic meal - huge bowl of gooey, cheesy onion soup, marvelous beef bourgignion and noodles, with meat so tender it just fell apart, and for dessert, warm apple tartine with pistacchio ice cream topped with chocolate, all surrounded by whipped cream. To die for!! This was the "menu" option for only 15 euros. We had a fun, friendly waiter. I'd definitely recommend this place.
Walked to Pont Neuf after dinner for evening cruise on the Seine. Another beautiful evening, and once again we were under Paris' spell as we glided by the beautifully lit buildings and bridges. Our vacation is ending, but we have so many memories that nothing short of Alzheimer's can take away!
Next morning, took RER B to CDG. What a zoo that place is. They had only 2 people checking passports and 2 screeners, for hundreds and hundreds of international passengers! It took us nearly 1 1/2 hours to get to our gate, where they were already boarding.
I've recorded most prices, info on sirport shuttles to RER lines, etc. so feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Our trip went so smoothly, thanks to the contributors to this board, and I'd love to be able to repay in some small way. Looking forward to planning our NEXT trip with your input.
Joyce
Took 8:36 train to Milan, and it was filled with people in red Ferrari shirts. Seems there's a race in Monza today. From Milano Centrale, took shuttle to Linate, 2 euros each. Pleasant, organized airport, SO much better than CDG.
Flew EasyJet for 20 euros each, just hoped the plane had wings for that price! Smooth flight, flew over the Alps and could actually see the rivers entering the lakes, just fascinating! One hour later, we're back in Paris.
Took RER C into town for 6.40 euros each. We're staying at a different hotel, thought it'd be fun to have one more new experience to look forward to. It's the Europe St. Severin, just off St. Michel on rue St. Severin. It's just 50 steps from our metro stop, and very charming. Our room is tiny, but well-appointed, with A/C, mini-bar and lovely little balcony. At 115 euros a night, we feel it's a good deal, as we're only a short block from the Seine and in the middle of everything. The hotel also has a bar and a nice-looking restaurant.
After a visit to St. Severin Church, we took a seat outdoors at Le Depart St. Michel and I had my first Kir. Oh my, where have you been all my life?! I had a peach one, (or two). Ate dinner at Le Bistrot 30, at 30 Rue St. Severin. Had a really fantastic meal - huge bowl of gooey, cheesy onion soup, marvelous beef bourgignion and noodles, with meat so tender it just fell apart, and for dessert, warm apple tartine with pistacchio ice cream topped with chocolate, all surrounded by whipped cream. To die for!! This was the "menu" option for only 15 euros. We had a fun, friendly waiter. I'd definitely recommend this place.
Walked to Pont Neuf after dinner for evening cruise on the Seine. Another beautiful evening, and once again we were under Paris' spell as we glided by the beautifully lit buildings and bridges. Our vacation is ending, but we have so many memories that nothing short of Alzheimer's can take away!
Next morning, took RER B to CDG. What a zoo that place is. They had only 2 people checking passports and 2 screeners, for hundreds and hundreds of international passengers! It took us nearly 1 1/2 hours to get to our gate, where they were already boarding.
I've recorded most prices, info on sirport shuttles to RER lines, etc. so feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Our trip went so smoothly, thanks to the contributors to this board, and I'd love to be able to repay in some small way. Looking forward to planning our NEXT trip with your input.
Joyce
Sep 21st, 2003 | 09:32 AM
#9
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Nice report, Hagan. We had similar train experiences in the Berner Oberland but I am now a schedule reading expert for next time! lol
How long was the tain ride from Paris to Geneva? And then from Geneva to Lauterbrunnen? What are PREM tickets? That seemed like an awfully good price.
How long did was the train ride to Como from Lauterbrunne?
We are trying to plan for next summer. We stayed in Murren and thoroughly enjoyed it except for the transportation connection. Lauterbrunnen in June looked very busy. Was the hotel away from the road? Quiet?
How long was the tain ride from Paris to Geneva? And then from Geneva to Lauterbrunnen? What are PREM tickets? That seemed like an awfully good price.
How long did was the train ride to Como from Lauterbrunne?
We are trying to plan for next summer. We stayed in Murren and thoroughly enjoyed it except for the transportation connection. Lauterbrunnen in June looked very busy. Was the hotel away from the road? Quiet?
Sep 21st, 2003 | 10:34 AM
#10
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Hagan, I really enjoyed your report. Sounds like everything was perfect for the two of you...other than the dreaded CDG which sounds identical to our experience a few months ago. But I guess the wonders of Paris outweigh the incoveniences of the airport! Happy Anniversary...and may you share many more years travelling together!
Sep 21st, 2003 | 12:16 PM
#11
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Ronda,
The trip from Paris to Geneva was a little under 3 1/2 hours. We left Geneva at 12:30 and were at our hotel in Lauterbrunnen by 4:00. We loved the trip, were totally absorbed by the scenery. PREM tickets are available on the SNCF web site, and are "specials" to various destinations. You can't buy them prior to 60 days before your travel date, but they apparently go fast. We had trouble with that site, so research this board for more info before you're ready to buy. There are several different ways to purchase them.
The trip from Lauterbrunnen to Varenna, via Milan, took 6 hours, 45 minutes, and we enjoyed all of it due to the incredible scenery! It was actually a very relaxing ride.
Our hotel was just up from the road across from the train station, and we never did hear the trains. We sat on our balcony every afternoon and evening and it was very quiet.
To Wren,
Thanks so much for the good wishes! And yes, the wonders of Paris do outweigh just about anything. But if we get there again, I think I'd like to arrive/depart from another country in Europe, either by train or in/out of Orly.
The trip from Paris to Geneva was a little under 3 1/2 hours. We left Geneva at 12:30 and were at our hotel in Lauterbrunnen by 4:00. We loved the trip, were totally absorbed by the scenery. PREM tickets are available on the SNCF web site, and are "specials" to various destinations. You can't buy them prior to 60 days before your travel date, but they apparently go fast. We had trouble with that site, so research this board for more info before you're ready to buy. There are several different ways to purchase them.
The trip from Lauterbrunnen to Varenna, via Milan, took 6 hours, 45 minutes, and we enjoyed all of it due to the incredible scenery! It was actually a very relaxing ride.
Our hotel was just up from the road across from the train station, and we never did hear the trains. We sat on our balcony every afternoon and evening and it was very quiet.
To Wren,
Thanks so much for the good wishes! And yes, the wonders of Paris do outweigh just about anything. But if we get there again, I think I'd like to arrive/depart from another country in Europe, either by train or in/out of Orly.
Sep 22nd, 2003 | 07:46 AM
#12
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Hagan, we stayed at Hotel Olivedo on July 3rd weekend, 2000. We had our daughter and friend with us and they so enjoyed the hotel and little town. My daughter said it was what she immagined old Italy would be like.
We had a corner room with balcony on the top floor. There was a regional towns festival that weekend with the most beautiful fireworks dislay we have ever seen shot off from a barge in the bay. There were also luminaries floating in the water. The show went on for quite sometime and the booms would set off car alarms it was so loud. We had the best view of anyone!
My only complaint would be the noise from the ferries all night and the lumpy beds! Kids loved the food. It was a great old world experience.
We had a corner room with balcony on the top floor. There was a regional towns festival that weekend with the most beautiful fireworks dislay we have ever seen shot off from a barge in the bay. There were also luminaries floating in the water. The show went on for quite sometime and the booms would set off car alarms it was so loud. We had the best view of anyone!
My only complaint would be the noise from the ferries all night and the lumpy beds! Kids loved the food. It was a great old world experience.
Sep 22nd, 2003 | 08:46 AM
#13
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Sure have to agree with you about the lumpy beds! She really needs to replace them, and the pillows as well.
But it is such a fun place, terrific location with so much to see, and such gorgeous views. It does seem like a good place for kids, since there's so much going on.
But it is such a fun place, terrific location with so much to see, and such gorgeous views. It does seem like a good place for kids, since there's so much going on.
Oct 16th, 2003 | 05:55 PM
#15
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Thanks Joyce!
I don't know how I missed this.. I thought you were only going to Paris, not beyond! We'll try some of your restaurant suggestions! Funnily enough , we will be celebrating our 42nd in Paris on the 21st!
We'll be in Paris 3 days , then in Brugge for 3 nights for a GTG with some friends then back to Paris for 8 more wonderful days! No venturing out this trip, I want to get Paris Overload!..Well, we do have 1 day trip planned but just to Ste.Germain des Pere and maybe Chantilly. And we have Michael Osman for 1 day ...which I've been told by one of his regulars is a treat not to be missed!In fact she'll be there at the same time and we are all going together.
I don't know how I missed this.. I thought you were only going to Paris, not beyond! We'll try some of your restaurant suggestions! Funnily enough , we will be celebrating our 42nd in Paris on the 21st!
We'll be in Paris 3 days , then in Brugge for 3 nights for a GTG with some friends then back to Paris for 8 more wonderful days! No venturing out this trip, I want to get Paris Overload!..Well, we do have 1 day trip planned but just to Ste.Germain des Pere and maybe Chantilly. And we have Michael Osman for 1 day ...which I've been told by one of his regulars is a treat not to be missed!In fact she'll be there at the same time and we are all going together.
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