Eating well in the countryside in France even with the current exchange rate - several lunches in the southwest
May 24th, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Eating well in the countryside in France even with the current exchange rate - several lunches in the southwest
There have been a number of posts recently regarding the cost of coming to Europe, wondering if it’s still possible to eat well. I thought you might be interested in sharing several experiences over the last week that prove that it is indeed still possible.
We live in the Dordogne, very close to the Lot, which although it is becoming more ‘gentrified’ still has lots of areas which are still very French, and very authentic. Although we live our daily life in Euros, and so are not as affected by the current exchange rate, we are still aware of prices, and appreciate good value.
Last Sunday we went to Vente des Plantes at Abbaye Nouvel, http://www.abbaye-nouvelle.fr/, held around the ruins of the 13th century Cistercian abbey. Bought some plants, went on to have our coffee at the side of the road surrounded by buttercups and orchids, and then a stop in Les Arques, home of the Zadkine (sculpture) museum and the wonderful Romanesque church. This is also the home of La Recreation, a restaurant made famous to many Americans by the Michael Sanders book, From Here You Can’t see Paris. But that wasn’t where we were going for lunch.
Instead we continued to Pomarède, to the Hotel/restaurants Murat, ‘Chez Jeanne’ where we usually go during the week for a ‘repas ouvrier,’ the set meal served to labourers in the area. Plain dining room, very basic, ambiance as one our friends calls it very 'avant guerre' - probably hasnt changed in the last 40 or 50 years.
We figured Sunday lunch would be even better, and it was. There were 3 of us, 2 had the 16 euro meal; I had the 19.50, with an extra course which I shared with the others. So we had:
White asparagus soup – à volonté as they say – all you want from the tureen, but we know not to get too carried away at this point.
Pork terrine and jambon de campagne with butter
Omelette aux cèpes - this was the extra course, and was wonderful, just right for sharing among 3
Gigot d’agneau, pommes Sarladaise, flageolets. We actually argued about what was best here. The lamb was pink and tender, the potatoes were crispy and full of garlic and goose fat, the flageolets with lardons and tomatoes were tender and wonderful. We didn’t finish everything, much to the consternation of our waitress.
Cheese – Cantal from the Auvergne, fromage de vache, a tender cows’ cheese, and Cabecou, the goat cheese of the region/
Dessert –Fresh strawberry tart, or for those of us who were fading, blackcurrant and lemon sorbet.
We couldn’t manage coffee.
We splurged on a 10 euro bottle of Cahors, one of the most expensive on the list, but in fact the pichet we followed with at 6 Euros was even better.
And so, wonderful meal, wonderful experience, for 3 people at under 70 Euros.
Then yesterday, for a change, and to celebrate my birthday we went to the new one star restaurant in Sarlat, Le Grand Bleu www.legrandbleu.eu/. We knew the restaurant under the same name, but with a different owner, but hadn’t been back since Céline and Maxime Lebrun took over. Then this year it won a Michelin star, and suddenly looked a lot more interesting.
We chose the 29 Euro menu, which included starter, fish or meat, and dessert. Doesn’t sound like a lot, but the flavours were so rich and intense we couldn’t have eaten more. A word of warning though – although this menu does exist at 29 Euros, a number of the menu suggestions include a supplement of 6-10 Euros. So, depending on your choice, you could with the same number of courses go up closer to 50 Euros. It’s unusual to find a starred restaurant with a 29 Euro menu, so I suppose we shouldn’t complain, but something to be aware of. The web site does clearly indicate this, but since they follow the rather outdated tradition of giving women menu with no prices (the only complaint we had) it results in a number of huddled conversations about who’s choosing what.
We started with several tiny amuse bouche, all with interesting rather oriental tastes. Then the Mise en bouche, a creamy celery soup with an ‘écume’ or foam of moutarde violette de Brive.
For a starter we all had
Salade de langoustines marinées et pomme granny, sa glace crustacés
Mains were :
Ris de veau caramélisés au beurre d'échalotes et sirop de Porto, mousseline de pommes de terre
Pigeon cuit à basse température et son jus tranché à la noix, risotto d'asperges
Cabillaud sur une purée de carotte à l'orange et à l'anis, coulis d'olive noire et huile verte
Followed by
Soufflé poire renversé au thé earl grey
All of this was beautifully cooked, with great imagination and flavour. The setting, while not glamorous, has been redone with taste and care. A very enjoyable experience.
People sometimes ask us why we moved to France...........
Today we were trying to get back to real life, eating lots of vegetables and drinking lots of water!
We live in the Dordogne, very close to the Lot, which although it is becoming more ‘gentrified’ still has lots of areas which are still very French, and very authentic. Although we live our daily life in Euros, and so are not as affected by the current exchange rate, we are still aware of prices, and appreciate good value.
Last Sunday we went to Vente des Plantes at Abbaye Nouvel, http://www.abbaye-nouvelle.fr/, held around the ruins of the 13th century Cistercian abbey. Bought some plants, went on to have our coffee at the side of the road surrounded by buttercups and orchids, and then a stop in Les Arques, home of the Zadkine (sculpture) museum and the wonderful Romanesque church. This is also the home of La Recreation, a restaurant made famous to many Americans by the Michael Sanders book, From Here You Can’t see Paris. But that wasn’t where we were going for lunch.
Instead we continued to Pomarède, to the Hotel/restaurants Murat, ‘Chez Jeanne’ where we usually go during the week for a ‘repas ouvrier,’ the set meal served to labourers in the area. Plain dining room, very basic, ambiance as one our friends calls it very 'avant guerre' - probably hasnt changed in the last 40 or 50 years.
We figured Sunday lunch would be even better, and it was. There were 3 of us, 2 had the 16 euro meal; I had the 19.50, with an extra course which I shared with the others. So we had:
White asparagus soup – à volonté as they say – all you want from the tureen, but we know not to get too carried away at this point.
Pork terrine and jambon de campagne with butter
Omelette aux cèpes - this was the extra course, and was wonderful, just right for sharing among 3
Gigot d’agneau, pommes Sarladaise, flageolets. We actually argued about what was best here. The lamb was pink and tender, the potatoes were crispy and full of garlic and goose fat, the flageolets with lardons and tomatoes were tender and wonderful. We didn’t finish everything, much to the consternation of our waitress.
Cheese – Cantal from the Auvergne, fromage de vache, a tender cows’ cheese, and Cabecou, the goat cheese of the region/
Dessert –Fresh strawberry tart, or for those of us who were fading, blackcurrant and lemon sorbet.
We couldn’t manage coffee.
We splurged on a 10 euro bottle of Cahors, one of the most expensive on the list, but in fact the pichet we followed with at 6 Euros was even better.
And so, wonderful meal, wonderful experience, for 3 people at under 70 Euros.
Then yesterday, for a change, and to celebrate my birthday we went to the new one star restaurant in Sarlat, Le Grand Bleu www.legrandbleu.eu/. We knew the restaurant under the same name, but with a different owner, but hadn’t been back since Céline and Maxime Lebrun took over. Then this year it won a Michelin star, and suddenly looked a lot more interesting.
We chose the 29 Euro menu, which included starter, fish or meat, and dessert. Doesn’t sound like a lot, but the flavours were so rich and intense we couldn’t have eaten more. A word of warning though – although this menu does exist at 29 Euros, a number of the menu suggestions include a supplement of 6-10 Euros. So, depending on your choice, you could with the same number of courses go up closer to 50 Euros. It’s unusual to find a starred restaurant with a 29 Euro menu, so I suppose we shouldn’t complain, but something to be aware of. The web site does clearly indicate this, but since they follow the rather outdated tradition of giving women menu with no prices (the only complaint we had) it results in a number of huddled conversations about who’s choosing what.
We started with several tiny amuse bouche, all with interesting rather oriental tastes. Then the Mise en bouche, a creamy celery soup with an ‘écume’ or foam of moutarde violette de Brive.
For a starter we all had
Salade de langoustines marinées et pomme granny, sa glace crustacés
Mains were :
Ris de veau caramélisés au beurre d'échalotes et sirop de Porto, mousseline de pommes de terre
Pigeon cuit à basse température et son jus tranché à la noix, risotto d'asperges
Cabillaud sur une purée de carotte à l'orange et à l'anis, coulis d'olive noire et huile verte
Followed by
Soufflé poire renversé au thé earl grey
All of this was beautifully cooked, with great imagination and flavour. The setting, while not glamorous, has been redone with taste and care. A very enjoyable experience.
People sometimes ask us why we moved to France...........
Today we were trying to get back to real life, eating lots of vegetables and drinking lots of water!
May 24th, 2008, 01:13 PM
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Look what you made me do... drool all over the keyboard! I'm keenly interested in any other Dordogne (esp. near Bergerac or Lalinde) resto suggestions, particularly on the economic side. I can't believe the food you got for the prices!
Six weeks from today we arrive!
Six weeks from today we arrive!
May 26th, 2008, 05:28 AM
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Carlux - What wonderful food descriptions. We can't wait to try these restaurants!
The topic of resto prices came up over dinner this week. When you factor in tip, tax and the outrageous price for wine in a US/Canada restaurant, France can be a bargain... And there is no comparison in the food. Try to get a meal like you had!
I love that the price you see is the price you pay in France! Dordogne is cheaper than Paris but there are retaurants that are every bit as good.
The topic of resto prices came up over dinner this week. When you factor in tip, tax and the outrageous price for wine in a US/Canada restaurant, France can be a bargain... And there is no comparison in the food. Try to get a meal like you had!
I love that the price you see is the price you pay in France! Dordogne is cheaper than Paris but there are retaurants that are every bit as good.
May 26th, 2008, 07:45 AM
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Just what I needed to hear Carlux. Thank you.
I have always found that the 'repas ouvrier' are wonderful in all French lands and territories the world over and I usually try them out when I see them offered. I've never been disappointed, especially in the French West Indies and Africa.
There is a possibility that we may be in the Lourdes area in late Sept. early October and I'll be looking for quaint, authentic villages as well as and places to eat in the way you describe.
Any ideas ?
Thanks again.
M.
I have always found that the 'repas ouvrier' are wonderful in all French lands and territories the world over and I usually try them out when I see them offered. I've never been disappointed, especially in the French West Indies and Africa.
There is a possibility that we may be in the Lourdes area in late Sept. early October and I'll be looking for quaint, authentic villages as well as and places to eat in the way you describe.
Any ideas ?
Thanks again.
M.
May 26th, 2008, 08:28 AM
#7
Hi Carlux,
your post highlights the price differential between France and the UK.
we are generally three when we eat out at the moment, and we're lucky if we escape for less than £90 - £30 each - that's more like 110Es.
for example, last week we went to a very well regarded restaurant at Trelowarren which is out towards the Lizard [the most southerly place in the uK].
DH had the set three-course lunch, starting with houmous and charcuterie, then poached pollack and veggies, finishing with orange flavoured pannacotta. [£13-95]
DS and I went for just a main course and desert, he had red mullet and a green herb sauce, I had roast monkfish with shallots and red-wine sauce [the best of the mains, IMO]. for pud, Ds had rhubarb crumble and ginger icecream, and again I got the best choice with strawberry soup ! and gorse-flower ice-cream.
the main course/desert options cost about £20 each.
with one glass of wine, a beer, a bottle of fizzy water and two pagos, the whole lot came to £80; if we'd had a whole bottle of wine and coffees, we'd have broken the £90 mark.
and althoguh it was well-cooked, it wasn't very exciting [apart from my strawberry soup, which was a real star dish].
to get food of the standard you describe, you're talking more like £40 each.
possibly prices wil lcome down as the recession bites?
either that, or we'll be weaating at home this year!
regards, ann
Ps [or coming to France of course!].
your post highlights the price differential between France and the UK.
we are generally three when we eat out at the moment, and we're lucky if we escape for less than £90 - £30 each - that's more like 110Es.
for example, last week we went to a very well regarded restaurant at Trelowarren which is out towards the Lizard [the most southerly place in the uK].
DH had the set three-course lunch, starting with houmous and charcuterie, then poached pollack and veggies, finishing with orange flavoured pannacotta. [£13-95]
DS and I went for just a main course and desert, he had red mullet and a green herb sauce, I had roast monkfish with shallots and red-wine sauce [the best of the mains, IMO]. for pud, Ds had rhubarb crumble and ginger icecream, and again I got the best choice with strawberry soup ! and gorse-flower ice-cream.
the main course/desert options cost about £20 each.
with one glass of wine, a beer, a bottle of fizzy water and two pagos, the whole lot came to £80; if we'd had a whole bottle of wine and coffees, we'd have broken the £90 mark.
and althoguh it was well-cooked, it wasn't very exciting [apart from my strawberry soup, which was a real star dish].
to get food of the standard you describe, you're talking more like £40 each.
possibly prices wil lcome down as the recession bites?
either that, or we'll be weaating at home this year!
regards, ann
Ps [or coming to France of course!].
Jun 28th, 2008, 03:28 PM
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Le Grand Bleu, close to the RR station but more expensive, is more interesting. L'Auberge is good for takling visitors who are unfamiliar with Perigord food. In GB, I would take the smaller menu and stick with the fish. The meat was well prepared, no complaints, but less interesting. Reservations are essential, although they lost ours but seated us anyway.
Jun 29th, 2008, 06:24 AM
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Hi C,
Go ahead, rub it in.
>since they follow the rather outdated tradition of giving women menu with no prices ...<
That is why the lady orders from the middle of the menu.
If cost is a concern, the gentleman suggests what he thinks the lady would like.
Sounds very civilized to me.
Go ahead, rub it in.
>since they follow the rather outdated tradition of giving women menu with no prices ...<
That is why the lady orders from the middle of the menu.
If cost is a concern, the gentleman suggests what he thinks the lady would like.
Sounds very civilized to me.
Jun 29th, 2008, 08:00 AM
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'>since they follow the rather outdated tradition of giving women menu with no prices ...<
That is why the lady orders from the middle of the menu.
If cost is a concern, the gentleman suggests what he thinks the lady would like.
Sounds very civilized to me.'
Sorry, I still don't like it. My experience is that you hear women all over the restaurant asking their partners 'How much is that???' And if it's the woman treating...
However, I thought I would also report in on another Sunday lunch, this time in the Correze, just outside of Terrasson (home of the Jardin de l'Imaginaire, a very intersting garden, and the Imaginaire Restaurant, a great one star that's one of our favourites.)
We took the MX5 (Miata) out for a drive and went to the Vieux Cantou in Cublac, about 5 minutes north of Terrasson. Nice old building updated (and with air conditioning)run by a young couple with some imagination.
Started with Kir, and then I had the 17 Euro menu:
Soup
Feuilletee de foies de volaille et lardons (chicken livers and bacon in a port sauce with puff pastry)
Bavette d'aloyau aux echalottes - a small steak with shallots, sauteed potatoes and ratatouille
A piece of St Nectaire fermier cheese with walnut salad
Fondant de chocolat (actually more like a chocolate mousse cake)
Other than the vegetables being a little overdone, the meal was excellent and well served. Very enjoyable, and extremely good value, especially as tax and tip are included in the 17 Euros.
The recommendation came from lefooding.com,which seems to be quite a trendy website, but the few places we've found on it are pretty authentic. Certainly this one was - full of older locals enjoying their Sunday lunch.
I think we'll keep investigating their recommendations!
That is why the lady orders from the middle of the menu.
If cost is a concern, the gentleman suggests what he thinks the lady would like.
Sounds very civilized to me.'
Sorry, I still don't like it. My experience is that you hear women all over the restaurant asking their partners 'How much is that???' And if it's the woman treating...
However, I thought I would also report in on another Sunday lunch, this time in the Correze, just outside of Terrasson (home of the Jardin de l'Imaginaire, a very intersting garden, and the Imaginaire Restaurant, a great one star that's one of our favourites.)
We took the MX5 (Miata) out for a drive and went to the Vieux Cantou in Cublac, about 5 minutes north of Terrasson. Nice old building updated (and with air conditioning)run by a young couple with some imagination.
Started with Kir, and then I had the 17 Euro menu:
Soup
Feuilletee de foies de volaille et lardons (chicken livers and bacon in a port sauce with puff pastry)
Bavette d'aloyau aux echalottes - a small steak with shallots, sauteed potatoes and ratatouille
A piece of St Nectaire fermier cheese with walnut salad
Fondant de chocolat (actually more like a chocolate mousse cake)
Other than the vegetables being a little overdone, the meal was excellent and well served. Very enjoyable, and extremely good value, especially as tax and tip are included in the 17 Euros.
The recommendation came from lefooding.com,which seems to be quite a trendy website, but the few places we've found on it are pretty authentic. Certainly this one was - full of older locals enjoying their Sunday lunch.
I think we'll keep investigating their recommendations!
Jun 29th, 2008, 09:19 AM
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Although you can pay lots of euros for food in France, it can also bought cheaper too.
I currently look for a meal for two at around 60 euros. This will comprise a apero (maybe a Kir) with some munchies, a decent starter, a main course, and a nice dessert. I also expect to have a bottle of the local wine.
Most of the wines I choose will be about 15 € per bottle. The water will be in the carafe~free and good.
Sure, I can feed cheaper but for 60 euros my belly stays happy. I normally try to use a restaurant with a bit of ambiance.
Blackduff
I currently look for a meal for two at around 60 euros. This will comprise a apero (maybe a Kir) with some munchies, a decent starter, a main course, and a nice dessert. I also expect to have a bottle of the local wine.
Most of the wines I choose will be about 15 € per bottle. The water will be in the carafe~free and good.
Sure, I can feed cheaper but for 60 euros my belly stays happy. I normally try to use a restaurant with a bit of ambiance.
Blackduff
Jul 16th, 2008, 09:43 AM
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We're just back from a fortnight in the southwest too. We did not eatout much because we had 3 veggies, a vegan, and 3 Scottish children unused to French menus with us. Our pied a terre is about 35 minutes from Lourdes,Mathieu.
We ate at "Aou Soum" in the village of Puaystruc. It too has recently changed hands, and the food and menu were much improved. My husband had the €20 menu
Garbure au Jarret de Porc et Manchons de Canard OU
Terrine de Porc Noir de Bigorre, Parfum Noisettes
En Suite
Terrine de Magret et Foie Gras de Canard au Pruneaux OU
Salade de Noix de Saint Jacques et Tranchettes de Saumon Fumé Maison, Crème au CitronOU
Ris de Veau au Floc de Gascogne, Galette de Pied et Oreilles de Cochon
Emince de Magret de Canard Poelé aux Champignons OU
Pavé de Flétan, Sauce Soum et son Accompagnement
Assiette Surprise
None of the rest of us ate off a menu, but there were 10 of us and the whole thing, including aperos and wine was €260.
We ate very reasonably in an ordinary place in Place Verdun in Tarbes; we ate regularly in L'Ancien in Trie sur Baise for about €8 a head including wine.
The one other place we had a proper meal in was Aire Sur l'Adour, but I can't remember its name either.Our total favourite in the area is the Monastere de Mon Ares in Nestier.
We ate at "Aou Soum" in the village of Puaystruc. It too has recently changed hands, and the food and menu were much improved. My husband had the €20 menu
Garbure au Jarret de Porc et Manchons de Canard OU
Terrine de Porc Noir de Bigorre, Parfum Noisettes
En Suite
Terrine de Magret et Foie Gras de Canard au Pruneaux OU
Salade de Noix de Saint Jacques et Tranchettes de Saumon Fumé Maison, Crème au CitronOU
Ris de Veau au Floc de Gascogne, Galette de Pied et Oreilles de Cochon
Emince de Magret de Canard Poelé aux Champignons OU
Pavé de Flétan, Sauce Soum et son Accompagnement
Assiette Surprise
None of the rest of us ate off a menu, but there were 10 of us and the whole thing, including aperos and wine was €260.
We ate very reasonably in an ordinary place in Place Verdun in Tarbes; we ate regularly in L'Ancien in Trie sur Baise for about €8 a head including wine.
The one other place we had a proper meal in was Aire Sur l'Adour, but I can't remember its name either.Our total favourite in the area is the Monastere de Mon Ares in Nestier.
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