Eating out in italy's major cities
Jul 20th, 2010, 11:47 AM
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Eating out in italy's major cities
I will be spending 3 weeks in Italy this summer--for the first time. The trip will include 3 major cities- Venice, Rome, Florence.
Any tips on how to find the best restaurants--i.e. no over-priced tourist traps and good food?
My last trip was in Spain-- Barcelona etc. and we did not have much luck with the food--mostly we got stuck paying too much for very bad food.
Are there any off-the beaten path places anyone can recommend-- if not names, then in specific areas?
Thanks in advance for your help
Any tips on how to find the best restaurants--i.e. no over-priced tourist traps and good food?
My last trip was in Spain-- Barcelona etc. and we did not have much luck with the food--mostly we got stuck paying too much for very bad food.
Are there any off-the beaten path places anyone can recommend-- if not names, then in specific areas?
Thanks in advance for your help
Jul 20th, 2010, 11:59 AM
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There are many threads here with recommendations for dining in these cities. Use the search function and you'll find lots of ideas.
In general, walk a few blocks away from any major tourist sight and the quality and price will improve. (I found this to be true in Spain as well.)
In general, walk a few blocks away from any major tourist sight and the quality and price will improve. (I found this to be true in Spain as well.)
Jul 20th, 2010, 12:06 PM
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If you are willing to invest in a great food guide, buy "Italy for the Gourmet Traveler" by Fred Plotkin. Or see if you can find it in the library. He focuses on exactly what you want -- good local food at reasonable prices. He also has sections on the cuisines of different regions. You can tear the relevant pages out, if you don't want to carry the whole big book around.
Jul 20th, 2010, 12:10 PM
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Here is what we did in Rome to find a good, non-touristy place to eat. We went into a neighborhood tobacco shop/wine bar, where there were a bunch of local guys. We struck up a conversation with them, and asked them for a tratoria recommendation. We were directed to a tiny butcher shop that had a few tables, just a block or so off campo di fiore. It was the real deal - good, no frills roman food. Don't be afraid to ask the locals!
Jul 20th, 2010, 01:03 PM
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We got good advice from the staff people at our hotel in Venice--asking for specific things, like a good seafood place or a casual pasta place.
Here's what to expect in Italy's restaurants: You will be charged a Coperto, usually 2-3 euros per person--perhaps more at a fancier place--as a kind of "cover charge" for which you get a basket of bread. It won't matter whether you want the bread--the charge is automatic. You will find resistance to bringing you "tap water" but will be given the choice of pricey bubbly or flat bottled water--even if the tap water tastes fine. Those costs inflate the price of a meal as compared with what happens, for example, in Paris, where "une carafe d'eau" and "du pain" are no-cost standards.
Here's what to expect in Italy's restaurants: You will be charged a Coperto, usually 2-3 euros per person--perhaps more at a fancier place--as a kind of "cover charge" for which you get a basket of bread. It won't matter whether you want the bread--the charge is automatic. You will find resistance to bringing you "tap water" but will be given the choice of pricey bubbly or flat bottled water--even if the tap water tastes fine. Those costs inflate the price of a meal as compared with what happens, for example, in Paris, where "une carafe d'eau" and "du pain" are no-cost standards.
Jul 20th, 2010, 01:29 PM
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I disagree that bottled water is pricey - I find it very reasonable in Italy. I have also never experienced "resistance" to getting tap water, it is simply not common to request it, except for tourists.
Jul 20th, 2010, 05:00 PM
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IMHO food in Italy is generally better than that in Spain.
We use the same philosophy everywhere. We do one splurge meal - restaurant picked in advance = in each city. Other than that we do lunch when we are hungry - may be a sandwich shop, pizzeria, trattoria, cafe etc. We avoid anyplace that is right next to a tourist attraction, has a menus with pictures or menus in multiple languages. As we tour around during the day we check out restaurants and when we find one that looks good and is popular at lunch with locals we make dinner reservations. The lunches range from inexpensive to moderate (we don't do picnics) and the dinners are in real restaurants with a decent wine.
In Italy this worked fine except in Venice (when there are way too many tourists willing to eat bad food) and worked fairly well in Spain. Although in the latter some of the lunch places were so-so, even those patronized by locals. Caveat: I prefer Italian food to Spanish overall, which may have something to do with this - but I don't think so.
We use the same philosophy everywhere. We do one splurge meal - restaurant picked in advance = in each city. Other than that we do lunch when we are hungry - may be a sandwich shop, pizzeria, trattoria, cafe etc. We avoid anyplace that is right next to a tourist attraction, has a menus with pictures or menus in multiple languages. As we tour around during the day we check out restaurants and when we find one that looks good and is popular at lunch with locals we make dinner reservations. The lunches range from inexpensive to moderate (we don't do picnics) and the dinners are in real restaurants with a decent wine.
In Italy this worked fine except in Venice (when there are way too many tourists willing to eat bad food) and worked fairly well in Spain. Although in the latter some of the lunch places were so-so, even those patronized by locals. Caveat: I prefer Italian food to Spanish overall, which may have something to do with this - but I don't think so.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 06:41 AM
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kfusto--We had several experiences where the waitperson told us we needed to order bottled water if we wanted any water.
Also, Carleen, at most restaurants in Italy we found that you get exactly what it says on the menu--if you order chicken, you get a plate with a piece of chicken and whatever sauce is specified. To get anything else (like a vegetable) you need to order from the Contorni (side dishes) part of the menu. However, we did not find any pressure from waitpeople to load up with multiple courses if all we wanted was a pasta dish or a fish dish.
Also, Carleen, at most restaurants in Italy we found that you get exactly what it says on the menu--if you order chicken, you get a plate with a piece of chicken and whatever sauce is specified. To get anything else (like a vegetable) you need to order from the Contorni (side dishes) part of the menu. However, we did not find any pressure from waitpeople to load up with multiple courses if all we wanted was a pasta dish or a fish dish.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 07:08 AM
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Buy a Fodor's guide and take it with you. It lists lots of good restaurants and, although they tend to be pricey side, they are not (generally) tourist traps. Plus Fodor's has lists of the top attractions, suggestions for walks, etc. I also second the suggestion to ask at a tobacco shop and your hotel.
The food in Italy is generally much better than in Spain, and much more familiar to American travelers.
The food in Italy is generally much better than in Spain, and much more familiar to American travelers.
)
Jul 22nd, 2010, 09:38 AM
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Maybe we're not picky or foodie enough. We just got back from 10 days in Tuscany and Cinque Terre. we were based in Florence so we ate many meals there both on the days we were in Florence and on daytrip days after we returned.
I went armed with all of the recommended restaurants. We never used any of them. Our decisions were based on the menu and the restaurant being about 3/4 full. I'm sure we ate in tourist restaurants.
I don't think we overpaid and we repeated twice. Of all the meals there was only one I wouldn't repeat and it wasn't bad.
I went armed with all of the recommended restaurants. We never used any of them. Our decisions were based on the menu and the restaurant being about 3/4 full. I'm sure we ate in tourist restaurants.
I don't think we overpaid and we repeated twice. Of all the meals there was only one I wouldn't repeat and it wasn't bad.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 09:39 AM
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In Florence, I have to recommend "Buca Mario". We did the same exact three cities as you on our honeymoon in '08, and that place stands out to me as the best meal we had while we were in Italy. The gnocchi were the most delicious I have ever had.
In Venice, "Vini Da Gigio" is the way to go. Another delicious and very locally authentic meal. No tourist traps at either of those two places.
We had good meals in Rome, but not one that jumps out that I feel I'd need to recommend. Your best bet is to ask a concierge in a nice hotel (even if you're not staying there) - tell them exactly what you are looking for, and they ususally know what's best.
Good luck!
In Venice, "Vini Da Gigio" is the way to go. Another delicious and very locally authentic meal. No tourist traps at either of those two places.
We had good meals in Rome, but not one that jumps out that I feel I'd need to recommend. Your best bet is to ask a concierge in a nice hotel (even if you're not staying there) - tell them exactly what you are looking for, and they ususally know what's best.
Good luck!
Jul 22nd, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Another vote for Chowhound. Then check out the website of the referenced restaurant. Even if it only in Italian (which is rare) the website will give you a sense of whether this should go on 'your' list or not.
BTW< although I think that concierge are wonderful sources of info on where to find internet, ATM and even theatre/opera tickets, IME they are far too 'safe' and a bit 'touristy' in their restaurant reccos.
BTW< although I think that concierge are wonderful sources of info on where to find internet, ATM and even theatre/opera tickets, IME they are far too 'safe' and a bit 'touristy' in their restaurant reccos.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 12:28 PM
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Where in Rome are you staying? Where in Florence?
If you click on my name, you will find several trip reports -- usually 1 Italy trip report per year -- that include Rome, Florence, Venice. I always list restaurants we tried -- price, menu + general observations.
Our Rome restaurants were almost all in the Piazza Navona/ C. dei Fiori/ Ghetto area. No use to you if you are staying far away.
In Florence, we tried several nice places on the Oltrarno, my preferred Florence neighbourhood.
If you click on my name, you will find several trip reports -- usually 1 Italy trip report per year -- that include Rome, Florence, Venice. I always list restaurants we tried -- price, menu + general observations.
Our Rome restaurants were almost all in the Piazza Navona/ C. dei Fiori/ Ghetto area. No use to you if you are staying far away.
In Florence, we tried several nice places on the Oltrarno, my preferred Florence neighbourhood.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 04:05 PM
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In Florence we loved Trattoria Garga, for a nice dinner. I recommended it to some foodie friends, and they went there twice within their week.
There is also a great rooftop cafe overlooking the Duomo. Perfect for taking a break, sitting under an umbrella with a coffee or wine. The name of the cafe I have forgotten, but it is in my trip report, if you click on my name and look for my Florence trip report.
There is also a great rooftop cafe overlooking the Duomo. Perfect for taking a break, sitting under an umbrella with a coffee or wine. The name of the cafe I have forgotten, but it is in my trip report, if you click on my name and look for my Florence trip report.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 04:19 PM
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A couple of suggestions for places where we have been:
In Rome, have a meal at Le Tamerici, which is near the Trevi Fountain. Vicolo Scavolino 79, uphill from the Trevi, take via del Lavatore, and first left. Think 120 Euro for two, and we ate there twice in three days. They have a web site, www.letamerici.com. Best food we have eaten in all Italy, ever, and was one of the reasons we went to Rome this time. We were served by one Kate, who hails from the Hunter Valley in Aus, a girl of good humour. (“Would you recommend the pork or the duck?” “Don’t ask me, I’m a vegetarian.”)
In Rome, the bar called “The Glass”, Via Carlo Battisti, left side as you go downhill. It looks very cool and expensive – but it’s not.
La Bitta in Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro,Venice is a good place to eat – they don’t do fish. On the left as you walk west from Campo San Barnaba.
The bar, Ai Artisti in Campo San Barnaba, is fun, and the staff get to know you quickly.
In Rome, have a meal at Le Tamerici, which is near the Trevi Fountain. Vicolo Scavolino 79, uphill from the Trevi, take via del Lavatore, and first left. Think 120 Euro for two, and we ate there twice in three days. They have a web site, www.letamerici.com. Best food we have eaten in all Italy, ever, and was one of the reasons we went to Rome this time. We were served by one Kate, who hails from the Hunter Valley in Aus, a girl of good humour. (“Would you recommend the pork or the duck?” “Don’t ask me, I’m a vegetarian.”)
In Rome, the bar called “The Glass”, Via Carlo Battisti, left side as you go downhill. It looks very cool and expensive – but it’s not.
La Bitta in Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro,Venice is a good place to eat – they don’t do fish. On the left as you walk west from Campo San Barnaba.
The bar, Ai Artisti in Campo San Barnaba, is fun, and the staff get to know you quickly.
Jul 22nd, 2010, 04:21 PM
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Or another bar in Venice, our favourite for the evening:
Pre-dinner drink – try the bar Arancina, near the Ca' Rezzonico, Calle Foscari, 5255 Doroduro. Finger food seems to be free during Happy Hour / Spritz Hour, 2.00 for a spritz, and the barman is nice.
Pre-dinner drink – try the bar Arancina, near the Ca' Rezzonico, Calle Foscari, 5255 Doroduro. Finger food seems to be free during Happy Hour / Spritz Hour, 2.00 for a spritz, and the barman is nice.
