Do you love Naples?

Old Nov 28th, 2003, 11:52 AM
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Do you love Naples?

As a serious Italofile, I have been fortunate to visit a lot of wonderful places in Italy, however, I have yet to visit Naples. It is something I have been wanting to do for a while now, but I didn't want to go by myself, and the opportunities just never seemed to come up. I've finally convinced friends that we should go, and so I'd like to know what you Fodorites think of Naples.

I'm not as interested in the Amalfi Coast as I am in Naples on its own. I would actually like to explore Naples' 'underground' layers of old city: I guess that would be Urban Spelunking or something (not sure what the term is). I'm an adventurous traveler, and I love Italy's large cities, but I have heard a lot of negative things about Naples. If you can give me ideas of what to do in Naples, and also any ideas about the underground city spelunking areas, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!
Jackie_in_Italy is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2003, 12:00 PM
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If you are an Italofile and an adventurous traveler you will be fine in Napoli. It is just a big, hectic, energenic, wonderful city. If you are an experienced traveler and have been to diverse places in the world, Naples is really very tame.

I have not seen underground layers of Napoli but I have been to wonderful restuarants, the opera, the museums and just soaking up the atmosphere.

Have fun.
nocinonut is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2003, 12:52 PM
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Hi Jackie,

We recently spent three days in Naples. I would go back. My wife would not be unhappy if she never saw it again.
ira is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2003, 02:30 PM
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Put me in the camp that loves Naples. However, I think you will just have to go and find out for yourself, because you'll get as many yays as nays about the place. My parents tried to put us off it, and they are among the biggest fans of Italy. The people who shared our shuttle ride to the airport in Rome couldn't stand Naples. Yet we have friends who shared our opinion that Naples is a feast for the senses. Two of the prettiest cafes we saw in Italy were in Naples. The food was heavenly delicous! The views of the Bay were astounding. It was chaotic, vibrant, colorful, noisy and so much fun.

See what I mean? You're going to have to go to Naples, if only to see what the fuss is about. BTW, this month's issue of Bon Appetit magazine has an article on Naples that you might want to read.

Old Nov 28th, 2003, 02:50 PM
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Good evening, Jackie
Beleive Naples has been taken with a bum rap for the last of WW 2. Naples
is like any other large city whether in
IT or another country. Have stayed in the area at least five times however because of all the adverse publicity
declinded to stay there. realizing that was a mistake, a big mistake. It
wonderful to see that Naples has been getting the good vibes after all this time. Richard of LaGrange Park, Il..
rozium is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 04:55 AM
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Re chaos in Naples:

Morning and evening rush hour - all the traffic lights are on blinking yellow, no traffic cops. Yet, somehow, it works.

Note that on "Pedestrian Only" streets scooters and motorcycles are considered to be pedestrians.

Get some of the early movies with Marcello and Sophia. Naples hasn't changed much.
ira is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 05:27 AM
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Bella Napoli is probably one of the most authentic of large Italian Cities on the tourist trail
Godfrey26b is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 05:31 AM
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Jackie - Count me in the Napoli-lovers club!
But then ... I have a sfogliatelle addiction

I expect you've already found these:

Hope this helps ...

Steve_James is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 06:44 AM
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Oh my, you had to mention sfogliatelle!

We got the best ones, believe it or not, at the coffee shop on the top level at the Naples Airport. I wished we had bought some to take home with us. Thinking of them now as I drink my second morning cup of coffee. The only thing to do now is take a ride to the North End of Boston and get a few! They won't be the same though.
Marianna is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 07:10 AM
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Spent about a week there two years ago..loved it. Fascinating city with so much to see;Veiled Chirst, the archeological museum, the "egg" castle,Villa San Martino, just the general street scene. For "urban spelunking" don't miss the ancient aqueduct. Great tour. You do indeed
feel like Orpheus down there.

Enjoy it.
mdv is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 07:26 AM
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I spent 3 days there last November with my daughter (she was 10 at the time). We both loved Naples! Very vibrant, very alive. I would go back in heartbeat. Be alert to your surroundings as with anywhere and you will have no trouble. Naples was our favorite city in Italy.
AprilA is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 12:30 PM
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Thanks for your responses so far, and thanks Steve for the websites! What essential things do I need to do when I visit Naples? it will probably just be a 2-3 day visit this first time, and I'm thinking we'll go early spring.

Jackie_in_Italy is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 03:33 PM
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To me it was just another rather gritty city--I've seen and lived in plenty of them around the world. Not nearly as special as the big three (although I didn't care all that much for Florence as a city, the Renaissance art is magnificent). Naples is worth a visit for the Archaeological Museum.

But different strokes for different folks.
RufusTFirefly is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2003, 03:43 PM
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I think Naples is an acquired taste, but, luckily, it doesn't take long to acquire it. The first time I was there I hated it. The second time, I realized it was a really neat place.

Everybody in Naples seems to be an anarchist, and that suits me just fine.
There is a story that describes Neopolitan attitudes that I love.

Several years ago they passed a seat belt law in Naples with fines for anybody not wearing one. Overnight an industry sprang up selling t-shirts with a stripe running diagonally down so the police couldn't tell you weren't wearing a belt.

Go, you'll love it.
Old Nov 30th, 2003, 06:52 AM
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ha! that's great about the seatbelt!
Jackie_in_Italy is offline  
Old Nov 30th, 2003, 06:58 AM
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Hi Jackie,

You will want to see te archaeological museum with the Pompeii mosaics, the Capella Sansevero with the "Veiled Christ" and the Capodimonte Museum.

Other places worth a visit are:
The Castel dell Ovo and the waterfront, the Piazza Plebiscito and the Via Toledo.

If you do a text search on Naples you will find other suggestions.
ira is offline  
Old Dec 3rd, 2003, 01:49 PM
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thanks Ira. I will start researching more seriously in these next few days before i leave.

Jackie_in_Italy is offline  
Old Dec 3rd, 2003, 07:14 PM
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Jackie --- As has been said bella Napoli is a feast for the senses. walk the Spaccanapoli to see life up close. Try the best pizza at several locations, Brandi, Michelle, Port d'Alba, many very good restaurants throughout the city.
The museums are very good, as are the palaces. Take a twenty minute train ride north to Caserta to see the Palazzo Reale.
But most importantly, you can enjoy Italy without the hordes of tourists, because they have all been told to hate Napoli.
Buon viaggio!!!
mmr41 is offline  
Old Dec 3rd, 2003, 07:17 PM
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dln -- Are we going to get the rest of "Romp thru Italy", I realize that with the holidays you may have other priorities.
mmr41 is offline  
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