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-   -   Do you love Naples? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/do-you-love-naples-379268/)

Jackie_in_Italy Nov 28th, 2003 10:52 AM

Do you love Naples?
 
As a serious Italofile, I have been fortunate to visit a lot of wonderful places in Italy, however, I have yet to visit Naples. It is something I have been wanting to do for a while now, but I didn't want to go by myself, and the opportunities just never seemed to come up. I've finally convinced friends that we should go, and so I'd like to know what you Fodorites think of Naples.

I'm not as interested in the Amalfi Coast as I am in Naples on its own. I would actually like to explore Naples' 'underground' layers of old city: I guess that would be Urban Spelunking or something (not sure what the term is). I'm an adventurous traveler, and I love Italy's large cities, but I have heard a lot of negative things about Naples. If you can give me ideas of what to do in Naples, and also any ideas about the underground city spelunking areas, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!

nocinonut Nov 28th, 2003 11:00 AM

If you are an Italofile and an adventurous traveler you will be fine in Napoli. It is just a big, hectic, energenic, wonderful city. If you are an experienced traveler and have been to diverse places in the world, Naples is really very tame.

I have not seen underground layers of Napoli but I have been to wonderful restuarants, the opera, the museums and just soaking up the atmosphere.

Have fun.

ira Nov 28th, 2003 11:52 AM

Hi Jackie,

We recently spent three days in Naples. I would go back. My wife would not be unhappy if she never saw it again.

dln Nov 28th, 2003 01:30 PM

Put me in the camp that loves Naples. However, I think you will just have to go and find out for yourself, because you'll get as many yays as nays about the place. My parents tried to put us off it, and they are among the biggest fans of Italy. The people who shared our shuttle ride to the airport in Rome couldn't stand Naples. Yet we have friends who shared our opinion that Naples is a feast for the senses. Two of the prettiest cafes we saw in Italy were in Naples. The food was heavenly delicous! The views of the Bay were astounding. It was chaotic, vibrant, colorful, noisy and so much fun.

See what I mean? You're going to have to go to Naples, if only to see what the fuss is about. BTW, this month's issue of Bon Appetit magazine has an article on Naples that you might want to read.


rozium Nov 28th, 2003 01:50 PM

Good evening, Jackie
Beleive Naples has been taken with a bum rap for the last of WW 2. Naples
is like any other large city whether in
IT or another country. Have stayed in the area at least five times however because of all the adverse publicity
declinded to stay there. realizing that was a mistake, a big mistake. It
wonderful to see that Naples has been getting the good vibes after all this time. Richard of LaGrange Park, Il..

ira Nov 29th, 2003 03:55 AM

Re chaos in Naples:

Morning and evening rush hour - all the traffic lights are on blinking yellow, no traffic cops. Yet, somehow, it works.

Note that on "Pedestrian Only" streets scooters and motorcycles are considered to be pedestrians.

Get some of the early movies with Marcello and Sophia. Naples hasn't changed much.

Godfrey26b Nov 29th, 2003 04:27 AM

Bella Napoli is probably one of the most authentic of large Italian Cities on the tourist trail

Steve_James Nov 29th, 2003 04:31 AM

Jackie - Count me in the Napoli-lovers club!
But then ... I have a sfogliatelle addiction ;)

I expect you've already found these:

http://www.napolisotterranea.org/

http://www.lanapolisotterranea.it/

http://www.cib.na.cnr.it/valnapoli/nzero/ns.html

http://www.dentronapoli.it/Archeolog...otterranea.htm

Hope this helps ...

Steve

Marianna Nov 29th, 2003 05:44 AM

Oh my, you had to mention sfogliatelle!

We got the best ones, believe it or not, at the coffee shop on the top level at the Naples Airport. I wished we had bought some to take home with us. Thinking of them now as I drink my second morning cup of coffee. The only thing to do now is take a ride to the North End of Boston and get a few! They won't be the same though.

mdv Nov 29th, 2003 06:10 AM

Spent about a week there two years ago..loved it. Fascinating city with so much to see;Veiled Chirst, the archeological museum, the "egg" castle,Villa San Martino, just the general street scene. For "urban spelunking" don't miss the ancient aqueduct. Great tour. You do indeed
feel like Orpheus down there.

Enjoy it.

AprilA Nov 29th, 2003 06:26 AM

I spent 3 days there last November with my daughter (she was 10 at the time). We both loved Naples! Very vibrant, very alive. I would go back in heartbeat. Be alert to your surroundings as with anywhere and you will have no trouble. Naples was our favorite city in Italy.
April

Jackie_in_Italy Nov 29th, 2003 11:30 AM

Thanks for your responses so far, and thanks Steve for the websites! What essential things do I need to do when I visit Naples? it will probably just be a 2-3 day visit this first time, and I'm thinking we'll go early spring.

Thanks!

RufusTFirefly Nov 29th, 2003 02:33 PM

To me it was just another rather gritty city--I've seen and lived in plenty of them around the world. Not nearly as special as the big three (although I didn't care all that much for Florence as a city, the Renaissance art is magnificent). Naples is worth a visit for the Archaeological Museum.

But different strokes for different folks.

rfb Nov 29th, 2003 02:43 PM

I think Naples is an acquired taste, but, luckily, it doesn't take long to acquire it. The first time I was there I hated it. The second time, I realized it was a really neat place.

Everybody in Naples seems to be an anarchist, and that suits me just fine.
There is a story that describes Neopolitan attitudes that I love.

Several years ago they passed a seat belt law in Naples with fines for anybody not wearing one. Overnight an industry sprang up selling t-shirts with a stripe running diagonally down so the police couldn't tell you weren't wearing a belt.

Go, you'll love it.

Jackie_in_Italy Nov 30th, 2003 05:52 AM

ha! that's great about the seatbelt!

ira Nov 30th, 2003 05:58 AM

Hi Jackie,

You will want to see te archaeological museum with the Pompeii mosaics, the Capella Sansevero with the "Veiled Christ" and the Capodimonte Museum.

Other places worth a visit are:
The Castel dell Ovo and the waterfront, the Piazza Plebiscito and the Via Toledo.

If you do a text search on Naples you will find other suggestions.

Jackie_in_Italy Dec 3rd, 2003 12:49 PM

thanks Ira. I will start researching more seriously in these next few days before i leave.

jackie

mmr41 Dec 3rd, 2003 06:14 PM

Jackie --- As has been said bella Napoli is a feast for the senses. walk the Spaccanapoli to see life up close. Try the best pizza at several locations, Brandi, Michelle, Port d'Alba, many very good restaurants throughout the city.
The museums are very good, as are the palaces. Take a twenty minute train ride north to Caserta to see the Palazzo Reale.
But most importantly, you can enjoy Italy without the hordes of tourists, because they have all been told to hate Napoli.
Buon viaggio!!!

mmr41 Dec 3rd, 2003 06:17 PM

dln -- Are we going to get the rest of "Romp thru Italy", I realize that with the holidays you may have other priorities.


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