We plan to spend a few days in Copenhagen and then rent a car and drive west through Denmark, traveling by ferry to Norway. We would like advice on the best ferry route, places to see and stay between Copenhagen and Jutland, and things to see and places to stay in Norway. I have been to both countries 25 years ago and based on that experience I was planning to skip Oslo and focus on the west coast. We would like to stay in some bed and breakfasts and would welcome recommendations. We are also deciding if we should take a short cruise or boat trip into some of the fjords. Is Norway in a Nutshell too touristy? Thanks!

IMO Nutshell is not too touristy. It doesn't eat up a couple of days but I think it worth it.
I salute your focus on western coast!

Are you keeping your car? It's often cheaper to rent one in Denmark. The most used route would be the ferry by Colorline from Hirtshals to Kristiansand takes a few hours. There is a ferry from Hanstholm to Egersund and Bergen, but the ferry doesn't always go to all the way to Bergen in summer.

Hi

As already mentioned there is a ferry that goes from Hirtshals to Kristiansand in Norway. From there you can go west towards Stavanger (my hometown by the way) and here you can take a few walks (to see places like Kjerag and Prekestolen, the Pulpit rock) or take a boat trip into the Lysefjord. I have posted a few pictures of Stavanger on my homepage www.gardkarlsen.com. Feel free to get in touch if you need some more information about Stavanger.

Regards
Gard

We took different ferries from Hirtshals to Norway. From our experience, we found that the one going from there to Stavanger was the best. Try to take the overnite ferry. This saves one night accommodations and you arrive early morning in Stavanger to start an amazing unforgettable trip. Just remember that if you go in the summer, you have to reserve the ferry in advance.
I find that there is no point in taking the Nutshell trip if you have a rented car. It seems like waste of money and you really can do all of it by yourself. If you are interested in a more detaiked route and suggetions concerning a car driven trip in Norway, you can contact me at [email protected] and I'll be happy to mail them to you.

To make a non-back-tracking Nenmark-Norway roundtrip from Copenhagen, I guess Oslo is not avoidable. Last leg should be the Oslo-Copenhagen ferry, i.e you should arrive there just in time to check in and install yourself on the ferry some time between 3 and the departing time 5 in the afternoon. Meaning that you can manage at least 300kms if starting at 8 or 9 from somwhere up-mountain or western valleys.

My suggestion is to get through Denmark within one or two days. Last overnight in Skagen, preferably at Brøndum hotel, a very, very charming thing close to the Grenen edge of the continent against the Skagerak and Kategat seas. Have a splurge there, and enjoy the Grenen walk during next morning. Then in the afternoon or evening head for either Fredrikshavn and the Larvik ferry, or for Hirtshals and the Kristiansand ferry. I'd second the latter, for one reason to get a touch of Sorlandet, Norway's "Riviera", close to Kristiansand, but most of all because of the relatively easy car trip through Ster's Valley to get to the Hardanger Fjord area.
From Larvik you'll have to drive all the way through Telemark, which not ast all is a bad option. On the contrary!!! But if western Norway is your goal, I guess Kristiansand is a slightly better point of origin.
Well, then you are in Hardanger. Fjords are for your feet, Bergen is close, do not care about the "Nutshell". Nutshells are for hurried people, qiute nice, though. But you have your time, your car and hence a great flexibility. Go north, and make your eastbound route either from inner Sognefjord (Lardal) via Fagernes to Oslo and the CPH ferry, or go further and make it via Lom-Otta-Gudbrand's valley-Lillehammer-Oslo.
Or even further: Stryn-Geiranger-Andalsnes, then east to Dombas and the whole Gudbrand's Valley south to Oslo.
I second the two last options.
You will be fine. I envie you.

Bjorn, Oslo

[email protected]

jdolberg: We did this drive in reverse as part of our Scandinavian tour in 2001. The stops we found worthwhile in Western Denmark were the Island of AEro, Ribe and Arhus.
The little village of Aeroskobing on AEro is quaintness illustrated. Little pastel colored houses from the 16oos everywhere. Beautiful farms and little villages all around the island. Bike the island. Stop at the farms where unattended tables are set up at the edge os the road, displaying for sale the crafts and produce from that farm. We part preserves, baskets, nitted and crotcheted items, etc., by dropping the requested amount into the provided plate or basket and making our own change. The sea is in view at almost all times. Awesome! Good restaurants, neat small hotels, a variety of shops, A few days at AEro is good for the soul and the spirit.
Ribe is, again, quintessential quaint. It is the oldest village in Denmark and dates back to early Viking times. The villiage itself is an interesting mix of cobbled lanes and old, leaning, houses. The church, a fine Romanesque example, is in the villiage square and beautiful. A short distance from the villiage is a living Viking Museum with displays of Viking living, crafts, farms, cooking, etc. We really enjoyed Ribe.
Arhus is a more modern small city with an interesting old section, but the main attraction is the Den Gamle By, a huge living museum from early Denmark which recreates early town living. All houses and buildings are shown by people in costume and in character. There are good restaurants (we arrived early and had breakfast, lunch and dinner on the premises), neat shops and much to see and do. The costumed doscents are very friendly and willing to answer questions and explain living and activities in as much detail as you wish. Arhus has an annual jazz festival (in July) which was in process while we were there and made our evenings even more memorable. Dinner outside along the canal in one of the many cafes with entertainment from a stage on the water was fantatsic.
We took the overnight ferry from Kristiansand to Hirtsals. In your case it would be the opposite. Took about six hours in a spartan cabin, but worked out well. The trip through Jutland was fantatstic. A tremendous variaty of scenery, forest, lakes, rivers, valleys, just wonderful. Some will say this is a boring trip, but if one can be bored by so much natural beauty, one really is hopeless.
We stayed in small hotels, but signs for B&Bs were everywhere. I don't think you would even have to make reservations in advance.
If you haven't been to Bergen, go man go. It is really fantatsic.
We drove the fjords and stopped and stayed as we chose and while I wouldn't tell anyone how to do this, we enjoyed this way to see this part of the Country completely. Geiranger and the Sogne Fjord and Hardanger Fjord were our favorites. What vistas as you come over the hills and descend to the waters edge. The area could absorb as much time as you have.
We really liked Alesund. The little seaport with its art-deco architecture is really charming. The harbor is a fun scene. The "great ships' were in part during our stay and to see these old multimasted sailing ships in the harbor was great fun. The drive up to Alesund from Bergen wa sbeautiful.
If you have any questions, please ask. Have a great trip.

topping for jdolberg and with Bjorn, you have "the" Norway expert.

Sorry!
Made a mistake with my e-mail address!
The correct address for detailed route in Norway (if you wish to receive one) is: [email protected]