I'm still glowing from an incredible three weeks in the south of France. We stayed the entire time in a house outside of Opio (between Nice and Grasse). The first week we had lots of family staying with us (including our son and most of his cousins -- all in their twenties). The second was for some couple friends (and down to three young people). The last week was just for me and four of my close lady-friends (so more shopping and less cooking).

Some highlights and observations:

This area is amazing in its diversity, scenery, food, art, and history. People who go to this area of France and stay on the coast are missing alot of the color and texture of the Cote d'Azur. Just 10 miles inland and you're in a lovely corner of peaceful Provence.

Most of our day trips were short drives: Valbonne, Grasse, Gourdon, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, St Paul de Vence, Mougins. We did venture to the coast a few times, but never more than once a week. Enjoyed the beach at Juan-les-Pins and had a beautiful day in old-town Antibes. Some went to Monte Carlo, but all were disappointed and spent much less time there than they'd planned. We drove into Nice once, just to see the Matisse museum, but didn't want to linger there.

The markets were a big hit. Valbonne is a charming town and has a good brocante market the first Sunday of the month. (The regular Friday market is also good.) And don't miss Thursdays in Antibes. Three different markets! The busy flea market -- everything from jeans to shoes. A good brocante market. And the daily Marche Provencal with every kind of food imaginable. Had the best moules frites of the trip at a little place inside the Marche Provencal.

When I go back I'll plan to spend most of a day in St Paul de Vence, primarily so I'll be sure to have enough time to soak in the Foundation Maeght. An absolute jewel of a museum. And I'd gladly go back again and again to the Matisse Chapel in Vence.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup is a charming village. We photographed the buildings there more than any other stop, I think. A bit out of the way to make a good base, in my opinion, but well worth a morning's visit. (And where else can you get violet crepes?)

The drive up to Gourdon is amazing. If it hadn't been a day of the mistral wind, we probably would have gone even further up into the mountains. A must-do when we return.

I'm now hooked on "slow travel." I loved the places we visited, but my real memories of this trip are the sweet, funny butcher, the girl at the cash register in the grocery store who knew I was the lady with the cute young men, the bells that rang every hour, the smells of all the flowers that were blooming, our discovery of the world of cheeses. . .life in France. I don't think I'll ever again plan a trip around sights to see. Just pick a spot and find out what's in your neighborhood.

If you're headed to this area, I'd be happy to answer any questions. And thanks to everyone on this board. I lurked here for a long time planning this trip!

Welcome back. We have stayed in that rea several times. Tourettes-sur-Loup has very good crafts shops, did you think so also. We stayed one year just below Gourdon in Auberge de Gorge Loup and three times in St Paul-de -Vence.
I feel the same way you do. I no longer take photos of famous sites, besides the post cards are better,
A personal journey is so rewarding.

Yes, the shops in T-sur-Loup were good and different. We especially liked the lady who makes pillows and shawls.

I tinking you are short-changing Nice, we spent a month there as a base for the Cote, and couldn't have been happier. I think first impressions are not always "on" , in Nice, there are areas of Nice, that are fantastic, like Cimez.

fbc34,

I was wondering if you could tell me more about your apartment? I want to go to the south of France in May but have not done my research. Was there a golf course nearby?

Cig, do you have any recommendation for a good place to stay in the south of Franc?

We take the least expensive room at the Colombre D'Or in St Paul-de-Vence. We loved the L'Áuberge des gorges du loup
You can look up to the perché village of Gourdon from th terrace)
We were booked ther and were to have dinner at 8pm. Our car broke down on the route de Napoleon but they saved dinner for us, we didn't get there til 11pm. It's a long story in my trip report, how caring the French were to get us through that dangerous mishap.

Cig, thank you. They are wonderful people. Our trip to France last May was more especial because of the people we met. A couple of them told us much they love Americans? Sweet!

My husband wants to know who you are because I keep mentioning your name (cigalichanta) in our conversation about France. I told me him that I get the feeling that you have been to France lots and lots of time because you seem to know so much and posting interesting articles. Anyway, thank you for being so helpful all the time.

Much Aloha,
M

How nice to hear from someone who actually went to Valbonne! It's one of our favorite small towns.

Another recommendation from our trip last October: the olive-oil mill at Opio, which has a fabulous gift shop. The olive oils from the mill, along with others carried, are top of the line.

cigalechanta, how is the room at Colombre D'Or? I love that town and would love to stay there a while.

fbc34, your type of travel is so rewarding, isn't it? Can you tell us about your house outside of Opio?

Underhill; do you have an address or website for the olive oil mill at Opio?

The comment about my "short-changing" Nice got me to thinking. I realized that when I'm staying in a city and make day trips to villages or the countryside, I'm glad to get back to a place that's not dead in the evenings. But when I stay in a rural area, my feelings are just the opposite. Especially if I'm driving, I tend to avoid the cities, or just "hit and run" so I can get back quickly. I do like Nice. Stayed in Nice one trip and learned to love it (plus no issues with a car). I think this trip into Nice was especially difficult because, as other posters have noted, the entire city is torn up with construction for a light rail system.

I'd love to stay at the Colombe d'Or one day, but do want to put a good word in for le Hotel St Paul. It's actually up in the town, with amazing views, and a fairy-tale feel after dark. The small rooms there are quite small, but perfectly done. (I remember a charming mural for a headboard.)

The olive mill in Opio Underhill mentioned is indeed a great place. Their website is www.moulin-opio.com. Never got to take the tour there, but we did go out back and peek in the windows of the operating part of the mill. Huge great mill stones. Since it's the mill for the area, I'd love to see it during olive harvest some time.

We stayed in a huge 10-bedroom house (had large crowds of folks the first two weeks), so I doubt there are many who need that much room, but I did see some places where an apartment would be great.

Yes, Valbonne was about our favorite place. We kept going back. . .to shop for dinner, visit the market, have lunch, just about any excuse. If I go back to this area without a large crowd, think I'll stay there. Either in a hotel (there are two promising ones listed in the red Michelin, one right on the main plaza) or in an apartment (of which there are several for rent right in the vieux village).

I also noticed a sign for a Gites-de-France property in Tourettes-sur-Loup. Made a note of the name (Les Nuits d'Antan), though I didn't see it and haven't yet looked it up on the gites web site. But we all agreed the old village of Tourettes would be a magical place to stay in an apartment.

This is golfing heaven (which is one of the reasons we went to this area, and certainly a reason we had so many friends and family come to stay with us!) Both the Grande Bastide and the Opio/Valbonne courses were pretty, popular with the players, and very close to both Opio and Valbonne.

One last thought. If you're going to stay anywhere in the Mougins/Valbonne/Grasse area, read one of Carol Drinkwater's books -- Olive Farm, Olive Season, Olive Harvest. She's right in that area and evokes so much of what it must be like to live there, plus does good research on everything from the Provencal language to hunting to bees to olives. They're all at the good English Book Store in Valbonne (which is worth a visit in itself -- and if you're renting a place with a DVD player there are English-language DVDs to rent there as well).

Thank you for the info on the Opio olive oil mill.
We like Valbonne too. The central square there is great for dinner with kids; lots of space to play, and there's a toyshop conveniently around the corner.

About Grasse: From my earlier two trips, I had sworn to avoid this town at all costs. But, sure enough, something came up that made us go in (a phone issue). And we had friends from London visiting who'd been there before and knew the trick.

Do not go into Grasse from the south (Mouans-Sartoux or Plan de Grasse). That's where the crazy-making traffic and road design all is. Instead, approach it from the northeast. Take the road from Valbonne (and where are my well-used maps at this very minute so I could give you the road number? I think it's the D7) up to Chateauneuf-de-Grasse. At the big roundabout that gives you choices for Le Rouret and Bar-sur-Loup, take the left to Grasse. This road takes you along the top of the town (with quite gorgeous views to boot) and almost no confusing twists or roundabouts. When you get to the end of this road (where it starts one-way), do a u-turn around a building that's stuck out in the middle of the street like an island. Then on your right is the large area where all the city buses park. Pull in there and there's an underground car park. From there, it's a pleasant stroll down the hill to the old town with it's museums, shops and perfume factory. Grasse is still a bit gritty, but a real town with a good number of charms once you avoid the chaos to the south of the old town.

There was a beautiful restaurant in Rouret(now closed) Table de mon Moulin
They served the dishes in the most beautiful pottery I have ever seen. My hostess told me she had it made for her by a potter in Valbonne. Unfortunately, I lost the note I made.
Sea Urchin, one room had a terrace where we could se the Boule court 'by the cafe. Another overlooked part of th pool and a dove sculture perched on the roof a foot below and the third ws over the multicolored terra cotta roof.
The staff is vry nice, Garden dining is lovely at night. The art is eeywhere. A huge Calder Stabile guards the pool, a wall painted by Picasso. Should you visit, stop in at the P.O. Upstirs is a room with photographs of the famous who stayed in the village and be sure tovisit the magnificent Meght Foundation, n impressive art collection inside and on the grounds
There's beautiful book, A Tast Of Provence, the story of the Colombe D'Or.
This is where Simone Signret and Yves Montand married and a dove sat on her head. The photos are wonderful if you love French films because to see the stars relaxing there is a pleasure.

Marking for our October trip!

Byrd

I enjoyed your report. Last year we rented a house for a week in St. Jeanett (near Vence) and had a wonderful time. One of our days we drove to the Grasse area and had lunch at Bastide Saint Antoine which was quite spectacular.
The mention of Le St Paul in St Paul de Vence reminded me of 2 excellent lunches we had there--it's a little gem of a place.
Nice is one of my favorite cities but can see your day might have been unpleasant driving in and facing all the construction.
Thanks again for such and interesting report.

When we were there we listed to Radio Monte Carlo, Riviera-Radio 106.5 -
we still listen to it via the computer. It's all in English except for some of the ads.
Great mix of music. Now, they've added a show on Thursday about properties for sale and/or rent. Interesting stuff for me.
Now, if I could only find a webcam for St. Tropez that actually worked ... I'd be in hog heaven. The one from St. Maxime over to St. Tropez just doesn't cut it!

I am glad this was topped. Thanks for the info cigalechanta! I love that town.