Comments and Advice Sought for Italy Itinerary
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Dec 2004
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Comments and Advice Sought for Italy Itinerary
This March I will be taking my 17yr old sister to Italy as an early high school graduation gift (I am 29). We are flying into Venice (Air France from IAD) on March 11th (9:30 am) and are departing from Rome on the afternoon of the 19th. Before asking for advice, I thought it would be helpful to give you background on our priorities: this is more of a bonding trip (we live across country from each other), so while we want to see the main sites in each city – we don’t feel the need to visit every church or museum (okay – I know that would be impossible). More a trip about soaking up the sites, eating a lot, doing some shopping, etc…I know that we are being ambitious for doing 3 cities: 3 nights Venice, 2 nights Florence, and 3 nights in Rome – but my sister really wanted to visit each city (I was in Rome two years ago and could have missed it this trip) and we are date constrained. Since we are doing an open jaw ticket and taking only carry-ons – I thinks this will be okay with careful planning. We are pretty experienced travelers -- This will be our 2nd trip to Europe together (I took her to the UK when she was 12), she’s spent a month in Switzerland with the Girl Scouts, and I typically go overseas once a year.
My budget is moderate this time as I am footing the bill for both of us. After checking online here (and seeing what was available for our dates), I’ve settled on the following hotels:
Venice – Hotel Marconi (470E for 3 nights in a Double Superior room) – our splurge hotel
Florence -- Residenza del Proconsolo (240E for 2 nights in Double Superior room with Duomo view)
Rome - B&B all'Orologio (360E for 3 nights in Double room --- we wanted to stay to stay in this general area and I had a difficult time finding an available, good room for around this price)
For eating, I am a foodie and typically search out a mixture of fine dining and small authentic family restaurants. While my budget is less this trip (my loving husband who is staying at home keeps reminding me of this), I still want to get a least one “great” meal in each city. I am hoping to use the suggestions from many of your trip reports on Fodors.
Basic activities on our Itinerary:
Venice
Sat: Take public transportation, vaporetti, into the city from airport (I am a little nervous about this one since it sounds complicated), explore city on own, plan on walking around and getting lost
Going in the afternoon to the top of St. Marks. Dinner in the Piazza San Marco. My sister also wants to have a drink at Harry’s Bar.
Sun: Santa Maria della Salute, Doges Palace for Secret tour, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Mon I’d like to visit the Guggeheim museum, Gallerie dell'Accademia, walk around more
Venice Specific Questions:
- Any recommendations on glass shops? I had initially wanted to go to Murano, but am now thinking that it might be too much. I am looking for a modern décor glass vase or sculpture. Can I get something of good quality for under $300?
- Also, is a gondola ride a *must* for us? It seems so expensive, but I don’t want to miss out on an amazing experience.
- Nightlife recommendations??
- My sister wants to purchase an authentic Venetian carnivale mask. Any suggestions?
Florence
Tue
Arrive after 10:30 am train in Florence @ 1:30 pm. Taxi to hotel and then walking around the San Lorenzo square, Pitti Plaace, etc We are hoping to get reservations to the Academni in the afternoon. Also,walking around Piazza della Signoria.
Wed
Early morning climb at the Duomo. Morning walking tour of Florence (3.5 hours). I also plan on getting afternoon reservations for the Uffizzi.
Florence Specific Questions:
- My sister is fascinated by the Medici family. Do you have any recommendations of places to visit or tours?
- I found this Florence tour company – the “original Florence walk” – Reviews or other suggestions?
Rome
Thur
Morning train to Rome – arrive @ noon. Spend afternoon wondering around our hotel’s neighborhood: Piazza Navonna, Campo di Fiori, walk to the Pantenon, Trevi Fountain. Dinner in this area.
Fri
Maybe Campo di Fiori in the morning. ICON tour: Vatician; Shopping; go out in the Spagna area…Maybe find an Irish pub as it will be St. Patricks day…(Funny as I spent last St. Patrick’s day in Vietnam)
Sat
ICON tour: Colisieum/Ancient Rome
Dinner and nightlife in Travestere district.
Sun
I plan on getting a 10 am taxi for a 1:30 flight. Is that enough time?
Final Questions:
- Would it be strange for me to take her into wine bars, pubs, etc? She is mature looking for her age and while not a drinker (…she doesn’t take off her big sister in that regards yet – luckily), she is looking to experience some Italian nightlife, people-watch, and/or dance. I’d love to take her somewhere local (at least while we are out in Rome and maybe in Venice).
- Guide books: Since I already have my hotels and am planning on using this site for most of my restaurant suggestions, I am not looking for a traditional guidebook (I think my sister already bought some anyway). I am seeking just a good map/guide. Any thoughts on the Inside Out books?
- Weather...I obviously intend to look it up right before our trip, but I am trying to get a better idea as to what type of coat I need to bring for mid-March. Can I get away with a short jacket or do I need a warmer wool, longer coat?
Thanks in advance for everyone’s help!!
My budget is moderate this time as I am footing the bill for both of us. After checking online here (and seeing what was available for our dates), I’ve settled on the following hotels:
Venice – Hotel Marconi (470E for 3 nights in a Double Superior room) – our splurge hotel
Florence -- Residenza del Proconsolo (240E for 2 nights in Double Superior room with Duomo view)
Rome - B&B all'Orologio (360E for 3 nights in Double room --- we wanted to stay to stay in this general area and I had a difficult time finding an available, good room for around this price)
For eating, I am a foodie and typically search out a mixture of fine dining and small authentic family restaurants. While my budget is less this trip (my loving husband who is staying at home keeps reminding me of this), I still want to get a least one “great” meal in each city. I am hoping to use the suggestions from many of your trip reports on Fodors.
Basic activities on our Itinerary:
Venice
Sat: Take public transportation, vaporetti, into the city from airport (I am a little nervous about this one since it sounds complicated), explore city on own, plan on walking around and getting lost
Going in the afternoon to the top of St. Marks. Dinner in the Piazza San Marco. My sister also wants to have a drink at Harry’s Bar.
Sun: Santa Maria della Salute, Doges Palace for Secret tour, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Mon I’d like to visit the Guggeheim museum, Gallerie dell'Accademia, walk around more
Venice Specific Questions:
- Any recommendations on glass shops? I had initially wanted to go to Murano, but am now thinking that it might be too much. I am looking for a modern décor glass vase or sculpture. Can I get something of good quality for under $300?
- Also, is a gondola ride a *must* for us? It seems so expensive, but I don’t want to miss out on an amazing experience.
- Nightlife recommendations??
- My sister wants to purchase an authentic Venetian carnivale mask. Any suggestions?
Florence
Tue
Arrive after 10:30 am train in Florence @ 1:30 pm. Taxi to hotel and then walking around the San Lorenzo square, Pitti Plaace, etc We are hoping to get reservations to the Academni in the afternoon. Also,walking around Piazza della Signoria.
Wed
Early morning climb at the Duomo. Morning walking tour of Florence (3.5 hours). I also plan on getting afternoon reservations for the Uffizzi.
Florence Specific Questions:
- My sister is fascinated by the Medici family. Do you have any recommendations of places to visit or tours?
- I found this Florence tour company – the “original Florence walk” – Reviews or other suggestions?
Rome
Thur
Morning train to Rome – arrive @ noon. Spend afternoon wondering around our hotel’s neighborhood: Piazza Navonna, Campo di Fiori, walk to the Pantenon, Trevi Fountain. Dinner in this area.
Fri
Maybe Campo di Fiori in the morning. ICON tour: Vatician; Shopping; go out in the Spagna area…Maybe find an Irish pub as it will be St. Patricks day…(Funny as I spent last St. Patrick’s day in Vietnam)
Sat
ICON tour: Colisieum/Ancient Rome
Dinner and nightlife in Travestere district.
Sun
I plan on getting a 10 am taxi for a 1:30 flight. Is that enough time?
Final Questions:
- Would it be strange for me to take her into wine bars, pubs, etc? She is mature looking for her age and while not a drinker (…she doesn’t take off her big sister in that regards yet – luckily), she is looking to experience some Italian nightlife, people-watch, and/or dance. I’d love to take her somewhere local (at least while we are out in Rome and maybe in Venice).
- Guide books: Since I already have my hotels and am planning on using this site for most of my restaurant suggestions, I am not looking for a traditional guidebook (I think my sister already bought some anyway). I am seeking just a good map/guide. Any thoughts on the Inside Out books?
- Weather...I obviously intend to look it up right before our trip, but I am trying to get a better idea as to what type of coat I need to bring for mid-March. Can I get away with a short jacket or do I need a warmer wool, longer coat?
Thanks in advance for everyone’s help!!
#2

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,395
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You're going to have a great trip. Would you like to adopt me as a sister and take me along? 
In Venice, the cheapest way to get from the airport is to buy your 72-hour vaporetto pass at the airport (note, you have to have cash, no credit cards) for 22E. This covers the orange ACTV bus, which you catch right out the front door of the airport, and takes you to Piazzelle Roma. (Note that the pass does not cover the blue ATVO bus from the airport). Then just take a vaporetto from Piazzelle Roma to the stop that's nearest your hotel. This is very easy. There is plenty of room on the bus for luggage. When you get on the vaporetto at Piazzellle Roma, the floor of the boat is the same level as the landing, so no having to get down into a boat with your luggage.
I wouldn't take time to go to Murano on such a short stay. You can find the glass all over Venice. There was a shop on St. Mark's Square (if you're facing the Basilica, it's on the left), I think it's called Seguso Viro's. They had some gorgeous goblets for 240E, plus lots of other beautiful things. You can find the masks all over as well.
For a fun thing to do at night, go to St. Mark's Square for the duelling orchestras. It's very expensive to sit down and have a drink (around 5E for a cover charge per person plus 7E and up for a drink) but worth every penny!
I took both those Icon tours in Rome and they were great. I don't think you'll have any trouble taking your sister into bars anywhere in Italy.

In Venice, the cheapest way to get from the airport is to buy your 72-hour vaporetto pass at the airport (note, you have to have cash, no credit cards) for 22E. This covers the orange ACTV bus, which you catch right out the front door of the airport, and takes you to Piazzelle Roma. (Note that the pass does not cover the blue ATVO bus from the airport). Then just take a vaporetto from Piazzelle Roma to the stop that's nearest your hotel. This is very easy. There is plenty of room on the bus for luggage. When you get on the vaporetto at Piazzellle Roma, the floor of the boat is the same level as the landing, so no having to get down into a boat with your luggage.
I wouldn't take time to go to Murano on such a short stay. You can find the glass all over Venice. There was a shop on St. Mark's Square (if you're facing the Basilica, it's on the left), I think it's called Seguso Viro's. They had some gorgeous goblets for 240E, plus lots of other beautiful things. You can find the masks all over as well.
For a fun thing to do at night, go to St. Mark's Square for the duelling orchestras. It's very expensive to sit down and have a drink (around 5E for a cover charge per person plus 7E and up for a drink) but worth every penny!
I took both those Icon tours in Rome and they were great. I don't think you'll have any trouble taking your sister into bars anywhere in Italy.
#3
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 0
How fun!
Venice airport. Several options but I agree with taking one of the two different buslines into the city (slightly different schedules and prices; information at the airport). Takes about 20-30 minutes and it is easy.
The bus lets you off near the big parking garage mentioned in the above post. Find out beforehand from your hotel what vaporetti line to catch and buy a ticket across from where the bus lets you off. Not difficult! Again, in Venice it helps to get detailed directions from your hotel before you arrive; print them out and bring them with you.
Venice nightlife. On the past two trips to Venice I didn't find much nightlife (did find a blues bar with a great band from England, but I have no idea of the name!) but a fun way to start the evening is at one of the wine bars around town. They serve little plates of food -cichetti- with nice wines by the glass. Fun and informal.
Rick Steves has a whole "Venetian Pub Crawl" focusing on these establishments in his guide book but I have never gone to any of the ones he mentions -- just found ours on our walks through Venice.
Since you will be in Rome -- good nightlife -- soon, you could enjoy the nights in Venice in a different style. Just wandering the dark and quiet streets (nice if you have a full moon!) is a great way to enjoy Venice at night. A Vivaldi concert (seem to always be happening) in one of the churches is a quintessential Venice experience as well. And someone mentioned having a drink in Piazza San Marco; yes, kind of touristy and overpriced but fun and worth it at least once in a lifetime! But personally I would eat dinner just about anyplace else.
Rome. I am not familiar with your B&B in Rome but really liked Nicolas Inn B&B when I was there in May. Nicolasinn.com -- the owner Melissa is an extremely helpful young American woman married to the also helpful Francois. You can read about the B&B on this (fodors)site and on Tripadvisor.com. I would definitely stay there again!
Guidebooks. For small, easy to carry and very useful books, with good attached maps, I love the Top Ten series.
Venice airport. Several options but I agree with taking one of the two different buslines into the city (slightly different schedules and prices; information at the airport). Takes about 20-30 minutes and it is easy.
The bus lets you off near the big parking garage mentioned in the above post. Find out beforehand from your hotel what vaporetti line to catch and buy a ticket across from where the bus lets you off. Not difficult! Again, in Venice it helps to get detailed directions from your hotel before you arrive; print them out and bring them with you.
Venice nightlife. On the past two trips to Venice I didn't find much nightlife (did find a blues bar with a great band from England, but I have no idea of the name!) but a fun way to start the evening is at one of the wine bars around town. They serve little plates of food -cichetti- with nice wines by the glass. Fun and informal.
Rick Steves has a whole "Venetian Pub Crawl" focusing on these establishments in his guide book but I have never gone to any of the ones he mentions -- just found ours on our walks through Venice.
Since you will be in Rome -- good nightlife -- soon, you could enjoy the nights in Venice in a different style. Just wandering the dark and quiet streets (nice if you have a full moon!) is a great way to enjoy Venice at night. A Vivaldi concert (seem to always be happening) in one of the churches is a quintessential Venice experience as well. And someone mentioned having a drink in Piazza San Marco; yes, kind of touristy and overpriced but fun and worth it at least once in a lifetime! But personally I would eat dinner just about anyplace else.
Rome. I am not familiar with your B&B in Rome but really liked Nicolas Inn B&B when I was there in May. Nicolasinn.com -- the owner Melissa is an extremely helpful young American woman married to the also helpful Francois. You can read about the B&B on this (fodors)site and on Tripadvisor.com. I would definitely stay there again!
Guidebooks. For small, easy to carry and very useful books, with good attached maps, I love the Top Ten series.
#4
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
What a wonderful experience for both of you.
I think the drinking age for beer and wine is 14 and they don't even enforce it. My 17 year old felt comfortable in the wine bars as well as hanging out in Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori. One of the best meals I ever had in Italy was at Taverna Trilussa in Trastevere.
You will find masks everywhere in Venice. The only problem will be finding the one she likes the best. The gondola rides are very expensive. See how she feels and if you can talk one of the guys down (not easy). Even if you did go I don't think it would end up one of the highlights of her trip. Don't miss the Peggy Guggenheim museum. It was her home (she is buried there with her dogs) and has an amazing collection of 20th century art.http://www.veniceby.com/general/frame.htm
Have a great trip.
I think the drinking age for beer and wine is 14 and they don't even enforce it. My 17 year old felt comfortable in the wine bars as well as hanging out in Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori. One of the best meals I ever had in Italy was at Taverna Trilussa in Trastevere.
You will find masks everywhere in Venice. The only problem will be finding the one she likes the best. The gondola rides are very expensive. See how she feels and if you can talk one of the guys down (not easy). Even if you did go I don't think it would end up one of the highlights of her trip. Don't miss the Peggy Guggenheim museum. It was her home (she is buried there with her dogs) and has an amazing collection of 20th century art.http://www.veniceby.com/general/frame.htm
Have a great trip.
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#8
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
You are a great big sister and are planning a wonderful trip!
Regarding the gondola ride, it was a highlight of our trip, not for the romance (we were with our 9 and 12 year old kids) but because it is such an interesting way to see the city, that you cannot get from the vaporetto.
My son bought a pinocchio mask from a shop at Calle dei Fabbri 1017. We just walked in and it happened that the shop owner also did the painting of the masks so we got to watch her painting some and talked a bit with her about the process. There are many shops that sell masks, but we enjoyed the personal touch here.
We were in Italy for the last 2 weeks in March last year. I would say a shorter jacket is fine. While, weather can vary, and checking the weather before you leave is best, anything long and heavy will not give you the versatility of taking it off tieing around your waste, etc. when it gets warmer. Just do layers and don't forget to bring a scarf! They keep you warm are easy to pack, and if you bring 2-3 you can feel like you are varying your wardrobe even though you keep wearing the same coat!
Regarding the gondola ride, it was a highlight of our trip, not for the romance (we were with our 9 and 12 year old kids) but because it is such an interesting way to see the city, that you cannot get from the vaporetto.
My son bought a pinocchio mask from a shop at Calle dei Fabbri 1017. We just walked in and it happened that the shop owner also did the painting of the masks so we got to watch her painting some and talked a bit with her about the process. There are many shops that sell masks, but we enjoyed the personal touch here.
We were in Italy for the last 2 weeks in March last year. I would say a shorter jacket is fine. While, weather can vary, and checking the weather before you leave is best, anything long and heavy will not give you the versatility of taking it off tieing around your waste, etc. when it gets warmer. Just do layers and don't forget to bring a scarf! They keep you warm are easy to pack, and if you bring 2-3 you can feel like you are varying your wardrobe even though you keep wearing the same coat!
#9
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Hi, I was in Italy in March about 5 years ago and we had very nice spring-type weather. (60's-low 70"s) The day we hit Florence the airport temp. read aout 92 degrees(converting from celsius)!! I don't thinks that's normal-but you get the idea. I realize the weather is changeable, but that was our experience. As for guidebooks, I'm sure everybody has a favourite, but I depend on the Rough Guides. I've used them for many countries and I find them highly reliable and accurate. They are highly detailed so may not be a "quick reference". One strength is that they'll tell you if something really is worth the time or not. Also, they don't assume you have a car. If you just want a map, I found a "pop-up" map for Rome at Barnes and Noble-I like these because they fold up so easily and they're small so you don't have to stand on a street corner struggling with a large, awkward paper map. Hope this helps
#11
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,525
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Following the rule that Venice is best approached from the water, I would suggest the Alilaguna (water bus) from the airport. It too, is very easy---buy your tickets at the booth in the airport, then catch the free shuttle to the docks. The Alilaguna departs about every 30 minutes, and goes to various docks around the city---you can ask your hotel which is closest. You can see the routes and schedules online at www.alilaguna.it. This way, you will get a tour of the lagoon, and a look at Murano, Burano, Torcello, etc.
Restaurant recommendations in Venice are tough---many places cater to tourists and price accordingly. We had our "splurge" meal at Antico Martini, and it was very nice. Most of the other diners that evening were Italian. Our favorite meal was at All'Antica Mola in Cannareggio. It's a small trattoria that appears in many guidebooks, but the locals do dine here (it's mentioned in "City of Falling Angels", which you might consider reading before your trip; it's a great introduction to Venice and the many people who have lived there). We had what we called the "seafood extravaganza"---a mixed grill of finfish and crustaceans, some of which were so unfamiliar we had to go to the Rialto market to see them the following day. We were the only customers that evening, fairly early on a mid-week night in April, and the proprietor was very friendly.
You will have no trouble finding carnevale masks---the trick is finding real ones. We wandered into a great shop with unique masks, but I couldn't begin to describe where it was---somewhere in Dorsoduro. Maybe ask at your hotel for this.
In Florence, I would highly recommend La Giostra for a nice dinner. My son, who spent a year in Florence in graduate school, sent us there, and we loved it. We should have made reservations but didn't, but the very gracious hostess re-arranged the tables out on the sidewalk to accomodate us. It's a small place, and the street is Borgo Pinti---I don't have a map, but I'm picturing it a little east of the Duomo and south of the Accademia (if that's possible).
You should be fine with your short jacket (layer a sweater if it happens to be cold). And you can certainly take your sister into pubs and wine bars with no problems.
Have a wonderful time. My sister and I are similarly far apart in age, and we started our "bonding trips" when she was a teen. We are best friends, and still travel together, but with our entire families along now.
Restaurant recommendations in Venice are tough---many places cater to tourists and price accordingly. We had our "splurge" meal at Antico Martini, and it was very nice. Most of the other diners that evening were Italian. Our favorite meal was at All'Antica Mola in Cannareggio. It's a small trattoria that appears in many guidebooks, but the locals do dine here (it's mentioned in "City of Falling Angels", which you might consider reading before your trip; it's a great introduction to Venice and the many people who have lived there). We had what we called the "seafood extravaganza"---a mixed grill of finfish and crustaceans, some of which were so unfamiliar we had to go to the Rialto market to see them the following day. We were the only customers that evening, fairly early on a mid-week night in April, and the proprietor was very friendly.
You will have no trouble finding carnevale masks---the trick is finding real ones. We wandered into a great shop with unique masks, but I couldn't begin to describe where it was---somewhere in Dorsoduro. Maybe ask at your hotel for this.
In Florence, I would highly recommend La Giostra for a nice dinner. My son, who spent a year in Florence in graduate school, sent us there, and we loved it. We should have made reservations but didn't, but the very gracious hostess re-arranged the tables out on the sidewalk to accomodate us. It's a small place, and the street is Borgo Pinti---I don't have a map, but I'm picturing it a little east of the Duomo and south of the Accademia (if that's possible).
You should be fine with your short jacket (layer a sweater if it happens to be cold). And you can certainly take your sister into pubs and wine bars with no problems.
Have a wonderful time. My sister and I are similarly far apart in age, and we started our "bonding trips" when she was a teen. We are best friends, and still travel together, but with our entire families along now.
#12
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
sounds like a great trip - please post on your return! My wife & I are travelling to Italy in Maggio and reading these postings is really getting me excited for our trip. We're doing the Venice-Florence-CinqueTerre loop, and thanks to the kind postings here we're definitely better prepared - and seeing more than I originally planned. We picked up a Streetwise for Venice and MapEasy for Florence at Borders, both really nice maps. I'd love to hear how you deal with rail reservations (i.e. booking next leg as you arrive at the station). I'm travelling very light this trip & wonder where that Murano glass is gonna fit ;-)




