Thanks for the tip on the DOWNHILL hike. I will make note of it for my trip. From your description, I think the CT has changed drastically from a tourist point of view.

Ann, the previous poster made a very good point about one of the good reasons for hiking into Corniglia from the north, from Vernazza, due to the large series steps on the south side of Corniglia, on the way to Manarola.<BR><BR>Besides that, we thought the approaches to Vernazza, Corniglia, and Manarola were also more picturesque when coming from the north on the footpath.

to the top

My two cents worth are the Ripa del Sole in Riomaggiore (at the top of the hill past the Villa Argentina hotel) and the Paradiso del Golfo (?) on the Riomaggiore-La Spezia road, which overlooks La Spezia bay.<BR><BR>Getting to Riomaggiore from Monterosso isn't much of a problem, although the schlep/hike from the train station to Ripa del Sole is tiresome. Getting to the Paradiso del Golfo on the the road between Riomaggiore and La Spezia will be difficult without access to a car or taxi.<BR><BR>One thing that ALWAYS makes for a good meal is stopping at a salumeria and just buying some bread, meat or cheese, pickled/marinated vegtables, and wine and having a picnic lunch/supper.