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Old May 26th, 2010, 11:36 AM
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Cinque Terre General help wanted

Hi All
We (wife and I) are planning about 14 days in Europe in July. Starting in Germany, through Austria and into Italy, eventually ending in Rome and returning home. We will be on the train - totally. I would really like to see some of Cinque Terre. My questions are:
1. Is it possible to get a hotel in the center one (Cornigila sp?), leave our luggage, and go north one day and south the next ?
2. We will have a luggage problem I guess -- how to store it??
3. If we have to choose only - say- two of the towns in CT, which two would you recommend.
4. To compound the problem, we are seniors (in good health, but not 20 year old athletes).
Any advice, information, or recommendations would be appreciated. I have always wanted to see this area of Italy, and one way or the other, I am gonna do it!!
As usual - thanks for your help

Shrink
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Old May 26th, 2010, 11:46 AM
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You can just stay in one town in le Cinque Terre (congrats on not spelling it Cinque Terra) and take the little local train to the others. It only takes minutes. You don't need to stay overnight in more than one town.

The hills are VERY steep there, and the town are all hill, so if you have knee problems, you may regret going. Even getting to and from the train will involve steep hills. The only one not hilly is the northernmost one, Monterosso.

But how are you going to have time for all this? You are going through Austria? I hope you mean riding the train straight through, without stopping. Otherwise, the trip will all be a blur.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 11:52 AM
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I live near le Cinque Terre, so I don't stay there and can't answer many of your questions.

The one question I can answer is that, in July, the hiking trails are really only manageable in the morning, with an early start. Otherwise, the fierce Ligurian sun on the shadeless hills is not recommended for anybody -- even athletes in their 20's!

Also, if hauling your luggage up many, many stairs is a problem in the hot sun, you might think of booking yourself into a flatter town -- like Levanto -- and visiting le Cinque Terre by boat or train. Otherwise, be prepared for the fact that when you get off the train in Corniglia, you will be dragging your luggage uphill, maybe in the afternoon sun. (Sometimes b*b owners will meet you and help. Sometimes not!)

Many people enjoy viewing the towns from the touristic boats that go between the towns.

Be aware that in July, you are going to have PLENTY of company, lots of fellow foreign tourists.

Don't fret too much about where you stay on the Ligurian coast. it is all beautiful and enjoyable. If you don't enjoy climbing stairs in July, do yourself a favor and enjoy day's end in a flatter town outside le Cinque Terre: Levanto, Moneglia, Sestri Levante,...

have a great trip!
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Old May 26th, 2010, 11:54 AM
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You could see the place without too many stairs, but that is the draw of the place.

For example, you could stay in Monterosso, train to Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and just stay on the main streets. In Corniglia they have a bus that will take you up to the town.

So, doable. But not that inspiring.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 12:13 PM
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I disagree that climbing the stairs is more inspiring than taking the shuttle bus or the elevator.

I live in Liguria, and I relish the stair-climbing exercise it imposes, but I also take the bus when I'm tired or carrying heavy stuff sometimes, and I also very much enjoy the boat rides and the cable car rides and even the scenic bus rides -- and I wish we had a few elevators where I live.

There are more ways to reach high spots in le Cinque Terre than hiking, and you can see lovely views.

I really think hiking in le Cinque Terre is overrated, but maybe I'm prejudiced. The trails elsewhere in Liguria are magnificent, sometimes flat, and so quiet and untouristed you can really commune with nature.

Here's one I take all the time, just to run errands. No stairs at all.

http://commondatastorage.googleapis....al/3533592.jpg
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Old May 26th, 2010, 06:34 PM
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zeppole, where is this place? It is beautiful!
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Old May 26th, 2010, 07:30 PM
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The Cinque Terre towns are very close to each other, so the choice of one town or another impacts little travel time. If you choose Corniglia because of the centerness, you will have to deal with the town with the most(?) height difference between the train station and the town. As others said, there is a bus connecting the station to Corniglia.

Monterosso is on a "flat" ground, but it is more spread out. If a long distance train makes one stop in Cinque Terre, it would be Monterosso. Other towns are more compact, but they are on steeper hills.

What is the luggage problem? Wouldn't you be keeping them at your hotel? You either have to deal with the horizontal distance - Monterosso, or vertical distances - all other towns.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 07:56 PM
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Zeppole,

Would you be interested in having a coffee while I'm there. Please email me [email protected], I would love to meet someone who knows so much about the area. As you know I'll be in Rapallo on the 1st-3rd before going to Manarola on the 4th, I see I will have to travel from Livorno to Genoa as the Barcelona - Livorno ferry is the one I need to take per my Eurail pass, unless the one to Genoa is cheaper.
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Old May 26th, 2010, 09:21 PM
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I, too, will be in the Cinque Terre area in July but on a cruise ship from La Spezia (sp?) We've explored the towns of Cinque Terre a few years ago and are looking for another place to explore on the Ligurian coast. We can take a train to any of the towns near-by or perhaps go to Porto Venerre on a ferry. Any suggestions..We, too, are seniors and hiking hills isn't all that it's cracked up to be. All the above info about Cinque Terre is great...but suggestions for other
towns to explore just for a day would be appreciated.
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Old May 27th, 2010, 03:39 AM
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cafegoddess,

it's a road just off the town of Ruta, which is at the top of the pass that goes over the Portofino Promontory from Camogli to Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo. (The seaside town you see in the picture is Camogli.) You can easily get a bus from any of those towns up to Ruta. (The ride is spectacular and brief.) From there, you can walk (or use the same ticket to take another little shuttle bus) to the village of San Rocco. There are beautiful views all along the way, and some spectactcular ones in San Rocco.

pookymimi, I sent you an e-mail.

Sandrajoy,

Portovenere is extremely pretty, but not all that different in character from the tinier le Cinque towns. While its promenade is mainly flat, to do much "exploring" requires at least some stair climbing. It is not a large town.

If you have not been to Lucca in Tuscany, it is less than 90 minutes by train from La Spezia, and it is the single most "wow" town you can easily get to by train, and it is entirely flat, (although you often need to climb some steps when passing through Lucca's walls, from the train station.)

If you would rather stay by the sea, the most charming flat town is Chiavari, less than hour from La Spezia by train. It is perfectly flat and has the added pleasure of being full of archway porticoes, which make it nice and shady and cool on hot days, and even pleasant in the rain. It is a shopping town, and everything closes up during the lunch hour, so plan to enjoy a long lunch by the sea or in town. (Lord Nelson on the sea is pricey, but nearly Michelin-star and with a pretty view. There are homier and much cheaper places in the town's interior, in particular Luchin, Caffe Defilla and Da Vittorio for regional specialties. (Even if you eat elsewhere, try a Caffe Shakerato at Caffe Defilla, with a Soirrisi, if you like chocolate. They all have good gelati.) When you get out of the train station in Chiavari, keep walking toward the hills, with the sea to your back. You will very quickly reach the historic center of town.

You can also reach Rapallo in less than 90 minutes, and from the train station, you can either take a pleasant flat walk through town to the sea, and take a 15 minute boat ride to Portofino -- which is tiny and flat. I'm not a fan of eating lunch in Portofino, so if it's lunch time, take a bus to Santa Margherita Ligure (or a boat goes there too) and find a lunch spot. There is train in Santa Margherita Ligure that will take you back to Rapallo.

Or,

From the Rapallo train station, you can walk across the street and catch a bus to take a beautiful 10 minute ride uphill to Ruta. Read my answer to cafegodess above. From Ruta, the 40-minute walk to San Rocco is all flat and shady, with lovely views, or you can take a 5-minute bus ride. In San Rocco, you will find several places to eat, including a very high quality and moderately expensive restaurant (Nonna Nina) and a delicious sandwich bar (Pippi) and a very good bakery. There is also a bar that stays open all day in Ruta, and serves great coffee, beers, wines, gelato and offers some modest meals. To get back to Rapallo, you just retrace your steps or take the bus back.

Or,

From the Rapallo train station, you can take a flat walk of about 20 minutes to reach the cable car that will whisk you up to the top of the mountains, to the sancturary of MonteAllegro. Up there, you will have some church steps to climb to get the best views, but it is a gradual walk. There are restaurants up there, or you can take the cable car back down and eat in Rapallo.

Rapallo has one of the finest gelateria I know about in Italy: Frigidarium. It is right across the street from the castle on the sea, not far from the boat docks.

I don't know when you would need to get back to your cruise ship, but in Liguria, if you sit down for a fancy lunch, you should count on 2 hours, and most restaurants don't begin serving until approximately 1 pm. A less formal place, like a bar or pizzeria, will be a shorter lunch.

Hope you have a nice day in the region!
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Old May 27th, 2010, 03:49 AM
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Sandrajoy,

Sorry! I made a mistake in the above.

If you eat visit Santa Margherita Ligure, the train will take you all the way back to La Spezia. From La Spezia to Rapallo (or Santa Margherita Ligure), the train ride is less than 90 minutes.

And I meant to mention there are beautiful views of the sea from Monteallegro

http://www.leivinvita.com/upload/images/montallegro.jpg

http://www.comune.rapallo.ge.it/interna_AT.asp?id=343

http://www.comune.rapallo.ge.it/inte...enu=302&id=301
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Old May 27th, 2010, 06:41 AM
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Thanks zeppole. You are so lucky to be living in such a beautiful place. And thank you for all of your informative and helpful posts.
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Old May 27th, 2010, 08:41 AM
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Thank you all so much for all the information. It is now planning time. Thank you again...you guys are INCREDIBLE!!!
Shrink

PS: We will have a global Eurail pass -- wont it work on some of the busses and Ferrys?
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Old May 27th, 2010, 06:46 PM
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Hi,
Just returned 5/25 from a fabulous 3 week trip to Italy with wife. Late 40s and early 50s.
We spent the last week in Sestri Levante for continuing education meeting and did many day trips south to Cinque Terre and north to Portofino and Santa Margherita.
Pretty fit...but, most of the CT towns were steep and watching some of the tourist drag their luggage up the hills did not look fun.
Can't comment on where to stay in CT, but Sestri Levante was a great base. Trains between the towns is a breeze.
Loved the Cinque Terre towns, but did not like Portofio or Santa Margherita at all. Just seemed too busy.
One day we did the ferry from Monterosso to Riomaggiore then back to Vernazza for lunch and train back to Sestri Levante.
Second day took train to Riomaggiore had lunch. Walked the Via dell'Amore (paved and not strenuous) to Manarola. Shopped and ate lots of gelato. Took train back to Monterosso for dinner. In Monterosso climb the Zii di Frati at sunset and you can see all the town illuminated. Beautiful.

This was one of our favorite days of our trip. Didn't see any great Duomo or museum with great art or historical site....just soaked in the people and the feel of the towns. It was perfect.

And yes, I did make it to "some" of my classes. Have a great trip.
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 02:20 PM
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Zeppole. Beautiful. A lot of great information.
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