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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 11:23 AM
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Cinque Terre

I am planning a trip to the Cinque Terre. I am confused about the towns and their proximity to the sea/beaches. Also, I would like to visit Portofino. Can you answer the following questions:

Best time of year to visit when it is not too crowded, not too hot or cold.

Which town has the most to do (restaurants, shops, sights) and charm.

How would I get to Portofino by public transportation from any one of these towns - how long of a ride?

Is a week in this area too much time?

A recommendation for a moderately priced, CENTRALLY located hotel in the Cinque Terre and Portofino.

Thank you for your help.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 11:37 AM
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The towns are cliff towns, hanging over the sea. There are no cars inside the towns, and few walkways that are not steep climbs or staircases. Some of the towns have swimming areas, with pebble beaches.

Probably the best time of year to visit is late September, early October.

Personally I think Manarola has the most charm because it is widely regarded to be the most "skippable". Therefore it has the fewest tourists. It has a pretty little church and a mill with ducks.

Monterosso al Mare probably has the most eateries, tourist shops, etc.

To get to Portofino, the very best way would be to take the train to Santa Margherita Ligure (or Camogli) and take the boat to Portofino. That is gorgeous. Otherwise, take the train to Santa Margherita Ligure and the bus to Portofino.

Portofino is very pricey, in every way, so if you have an accommodations budget, best thing to do is go very, very cheap in Cinque Terre, and then bite the bullet in Portofino.

If you like to hike (Cinque Terre) or shop (Portofino) and generally relax in a pretty place and eat seafood, a week will be place. If you are looking for more to do and see and explore, and are on a budget, you might do better to rent an apartment in Santa Margherita Ligure for the week. From there it's an easy trip to both Cinque Terre and Portofino, and you can also go to Genova on a rainy day, visit Rapallo for the markets, see beautiful vistas in and around Camogli -- and still relax.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 12:07 PM
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Thank you so much. Your answers were very explicit to my questions. I like that and it is very helpful when planning a trip. Some of the pictures of the walking roads I see led me to believe it was not that steep and the towns were closer to the water and beaches than I thought. I guess my perception was incorrect. By the way, my mother alwyas made the very best ZEPPOLE! Love your screen name.

Thanks again,
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 12:54 PM
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I completely agree with everything in Zeppole's post.

Monterosso is the only town with much of a beach (and it ain't much) and it is the best town for catching the train for day trips to Genoa (great city), Portofino, etc.

We liked Hotel Marina, which is located on a quiet street in the heart of the old town and near the waterfront.

The hotel provides three services we did not find elsewhere: (1) A service for transporting luggage from the train to the hotel, (2) a breakfast that included eggs cooked to order and, in the afternoon, (3) a spread of wine and food from which one could easily make a substantial and tasty meal.

We were in room #140, on the street side of the building. It has two large windows that lead to balconies overlooking the street and a bathroom so tiny that there was not enough room to dry off in it after taking a shower.

We also liked the meals we ate at Ristorante Belvedere, on the harbor front. The waiters at Belvedere didn’t rush us, the food was tasty, and the prices were right. Pasta dishes are big enough for two. We especially liked the black and white pasta with mussels.

In Santa Margherita, definitely take the ferry to Portifino--it provides a most beautiful introduction to the town.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 02:23 PM
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We stayed in a great B&B in Manarola B&B and Apartments Da Baranin. Nice place and well appointed rooms. There's a great pub just below where we start our own happy hour with Sciachetrà. We managed to get a room with a view of the ocean and the sunsets were magical!

We were there in October and didn't find the towns too crowded. We enjoyed just hanging around.

Getting lost in the streets of each of the 5 towns was the best. Hiking between them is good, but I'd recommend not doing it in the summer months unless you're in excellent shape.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 02:38 PM
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We thought that Monterosso and Vernazza had the most shops and restaurants. Monterosso has the best beach of the CT, but you can also go to the beach in many other towns along the coast, such as Santa Margherita and Camogli. Also, the beaches there are rocky (small stones/pebbles), not sandy. We stayed 4 nights in Santa Margherita and did not come close to seeing everything. If you don't want to spend too much time on the train each day(its about 50 minutes between Monterosso and Santa Margherita), you might split the week into half in the CT itself, and then move north to Santa Margherita or Camogli.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 05:57 PM
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Just got back from Rapallo which has the ferry to SML and Portofino with train service to Camogli,Genoa and Cinque Terre. We loved this town as it has the tourist aspect with seafront but also has the market on Thursday morning;some great restaurants but "regular person" type stores and living.

AS Rick Steves has said, "Cinque Terre has been overrun with American tourists holding my books and Germans with walking sticks". I could not have said it better!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2008, 10:14 PM
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We were there in early October and it wasn't filled with people during the weekdays. But even in October the weekend was madness. So plan for off-season, mid-week. Weather was great for us, although a little cold in the morning.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 06:02 AM
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We were there in mid October. Not too crowded, warm in the sun, cool in the shade.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 06:47 AM
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Thank you everyone for your insightful responses. This website is just a wonderful resource.

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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 06:55 AM
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Not (yet) mentioned is...

...the not-to-be-missed town of Portovenere.

Also - take the boat ride across the Golfo di Spezia to Lerici and back.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:02 AM
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To clarify a bit on proximity to beaches/the ocean, Monterosso is located mostly at the level of the sea. There's a "road" that streches along the ocean-front and that is lined with restaurants/hotels. In the main part of the little town, it's still level, plus one street that heads away from the ocean and goes up. We've stayed at the Villa Steno, which we enjoyed very much, but which is a little way up the little street. Villa Steno has a sister hotel, Hotel Pasquale, that is located closer to the water, but also closer to the train that runs through town. See http://www.pasini.com/ for both.

Vernazza is more vertical, and has more buildings built up on the hillsides, but it also has a main part that's mostly at sea level and clustered around the little harbor.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:10 AM
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We were in CT a few years ago in mid May. The day trippers in Vernazza left by late afternoon and we found it delightful. Two nights is probably enough time. We would stay in Vernazza again--charming village, great sunsets, and wonderful hiking.
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 05:50 AM
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I just got back from the area and really enjoyed staying in Vernazza. It did have a beach area, nice restaurants (two I saw posted eggs for breakfast) and beautiful views from hotel terraces and restaurants up the terraces.

A couple of days was long enough for us. We didn't think it was very crowded at all and we were there in mid June. It was warm but not hot.

Our favorite activity was taking the boat to all the villages, except Corniglia. It cost 12.50 Euros to go to the other 4 villages and you can pay extra to go to Porto Venere. The pass lasts all day. It's just beautiful to see all the villages from the sea.

Friends of ours went in November and the boats were not running. They also won't run if the sea is choppy.


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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 07:35 AM
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We visited CT in early May and rented a large room that overlooked the Piazza Marconi in Vernazza.

Weather was perfect - warm enough for swimming and the waters were calm. The boats were running between the villages.

Vernazza, as one poster mentioned, during the day is a bit crowded because the village is quite small. But beginning around 4:00 it empties out and only the locals and persons sleeping in Vernazza were left and it was wonderful. Great restaurant choices. Please do not miss eating at Il Pirata, located just above the train station - they have delicious evening meals and morning pastries to die for! Plus, the twin proprietors are a delight to meet and chat with.

One week might be a bit much unless you do venture out to other destinations, using CT as your base.

My opinion is, if you want to swim, Monterrosso is your only practical choice. I also have stayed in Monterrosso at Hotel Pasquale and it was a great little place and is located right on the waterfront. Only downside is it's close to the train but honestly it didn't bother us at all.
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 07:52 AM
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I was in the Cinque Terre in early June of this year for three nights. We stayed in Manarola and found that to be a great choice - it was our favorite town of the five. We stayed in a lovely one bedroom (extra bed in the living room) with a kitchen for 105 euros per night.

I could easily stay a week in this location - it was a nice break from museums, etc. - nothing to do but walk, enjoy the spectacular scenery and people and relax.
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 08:28 AM
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Bellibop,
If you are looking for a good beach, try the town of Levanto which is very close to Monterosso and is referred to as the 6th town of the CT. It has more restaurants and shops than any of the other CT towns. It is a beautiful town, different from the CT towns as it not perched on a cliff....check out Levanto.net for some ideas and photos..we went in late September thru early october, no crowds and the weather was warm enough to swim in the ocean!
Mikek
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