Dukey1

We arrived in Vienna after a not-too-harrowing journey. I have some real "issues" with USAirways in terms of how they decided to re-assign seats and also how they absolutely refused to EXPLAIN how they did this.

I will also say that given the literally billions of dollars the airlines collectively generated in revenue for things like baggage checking and "premium" seat selection, the "food" this airline serves people in Economy is not only a joke it seems to be a crime as well.

We were also told we needed to fill out a "landing card" for UK Border Protection or whatever that agency calls itself when in fact, because we were transferring at Heathrow we did not (and I didn't).

We had a shorter than usual flight to Heathrow: 6 hrs 45 minutes. Despite the airport's best efforts to transfer us quickly from terminal 3 to 5 where our connecting flight was leaving from, we did not get there in time and were stopped before Security and re-directed to a British Airways service desk for re-booking. That was accomplished; we had to take a bus back to Terminal 3 where we went through Security and had some relaxation time in one of the BA lounges.

I am <B>so</B> glad we traveled with carry-on luggage only.

Flight to Vienna was delayed in departing and when the departure was announced there was a "goat rope" assault on the jetway by a gang of passengers. FORGET so-called boarding groups and all of that: it was, literally, every passenger for themselves and, fortunately, nobody was killed or injured LOL.

Flight uneventful; arrival and passage through Immigration smooth.

What we <B>should</B>have done was take the train into the city and a cab from the arrival station to the hotel. We opted to take a cab in from the airport which cost in excess of Euro 40 given traffic, etc.

The hotel (Park Hyatt) is very much as was described by Cowboy1968 on my "Help With Vienna" thread so I will not repeat any of that here. We have a nice room on the second floor of the former bank; the ceilings on this floor have to be close to 20 feet in height. Have a view of sorts and the AmHof Christmas Market is across from the front entrance with another Christmas Market a block or two away. I will talk more about those later today.

annhig

Flight to Vienna was delayed in departing and when the departure was announced there was a "goat rope" assault on the jetway by a gang of passengers. FORGET so-called boarding groups and all of that: it was, literally, every passenger for themselves and, fortunately, nobody was killed or injured LOL.>>

Glad you arrived safely, dukey, despite the efforts of fellow passengers to kill you/themselves. Did no official remonstrate with them? The only time i have attempted to circumvent one of these obstacles [simply by walking underneath it] was in a.n.other airport in OZ where there was no-one at all about apart from us, but the security woman sent me back pronto. When I asked her why, she said it was for my own good as i might have hurt myself; I pointed out that I could just as easily have hurt myself walking back underneath it, which would then have been her fault. This did not go down well, and earned me an extra special search on the other side of security.

looking forward to hearing more about Vienna!

Dukey1

The woman who made the unfortunate announcement at the entrance to the jetway and then kinda jumped out of the way before the onslaught more or less threw up her hands in resignation as to the inevitable.

Had a good night's rest last night. I am one of those people who really likes very firm mattresses so I am usually very comfortable on most European hotel beds and the one here is no exception.

Overcast and damp this morning; 42 degrees (F.). The Christmas markets get going around 10 AM. The one across the street from the hotel is called the Weinachts Markt amHof and is relatively small as is the one a block or so further away.

After breakfast we decided to skip the two closer ones which we had browsed through yesterday late afternoon and head for the larger one located in front of the Rathaus which is a sort walk away.

Vienna remains wonderful IMO in terms of some of the architecture and somehow very "imperial" to this day. Lots of decoration around some of the building windows and in the area of the hotel there are holiday decorations on several streets. Some of these are in the shape of enormous chandeliers; the lighted decorations at the Rathaus market are in the form of angel wings.

I am the person who has said, in the past, that if you have seen one Christmas market then you've seen them all. That may or may not be the case but the happening in front of the rathaus is, in a word, HUGE as these things seems to go.

Along with the market "huts" as I like to call them there are also numerous diversions for the children to include pony rides and one of those motorized "trains" you sometimes see along boardwalks in larger US seashore towns; the one here is, of course, done up as some sort of "Christmas Train."

And lest anyone think that what is on offer is all about Christmas, believe me it is not. Just a small and very partial list of what is for sale includes balloons (various figures including "Mr. Potato Head), candles of various sorts, snow globes, stuffed penguins and polar bear toys, ornaments in every shape and variety, cymbelstern candles, glass Murano masks, Vienna city souvenirs, small decorated Christmas trees, zuckerwatte (cotton candy), lebkuken (those decorated heart-shaped cookies)in various sizes, muesli, Christmas music cd's, gluwein, several baked potato stands, Krapfen (donuts), purses, wallets, candy canes, wristwatches, jewelry, jams and jellies, olive oil, roasted potatoes and nuts, candy of every type as well as various pretzels with coating including "pizza," beer, and wurst, ham, cheese, ettched glassware, soup in breadbowls, energy punch, fruit juices, and on and on,

Lots of people in evidence this morning soon after the opening time of 10 AM. Adults with dogs and children; older folks using canes and walkers, you name it. Plenty of people standing around at the "tables" set up in front of the liquid refreshment and other food sellers eating and smoking.

The rathaus backdrop for the market makes the thing even more impressive as does the elaborately decorated burg theatre building across the street.

We also walked over to the St. Peter's church. Lots of people taking the horse-drawn period carriage rides; the drivers sporting derby-like headgear.

The St. Peter interior which somewhat small, is truly like "baroque on steroids" and if you enjoy that sort of interior religious decoration then this place is a real must. Plenty of gold leaf, very elaborate carvings over the pulpit as well as decorating many of the side chapels. Supposedly the church is the second oldest Christian church in the city. The fresco in the dome which shows the coronation of the Virgin Mary is difficult to see so there is a large illuminated photograph of it at ground level in the rear of the sanctuary.

The crypt has an annual nativity scene which opens tomorrow so we will go back then to visit that.

There is a lot of so-called "high end" shopping near the hotel to include names like Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc., and they all have those "security" guards dressed in black at or near the doors. Why some of them remind me of ex-convicts (remember, I actually worked IN a prison once so I know "that look") i am not entirely sure.

We decided to end the morning by visiting the nearby Kunstforum where there is a Toulouse-Lautrec exhibit. We walked in and the foyer was jammed with visitors so we decided to do it later today.

A word about clothing. I agree with many who keep saying that layers work and yes, they do, but when you are doing carry-ons only and there isn't a lot of room for a bunch of layers (not when you have a pair of size 12 shoes packed there isn't) I am continually grateful for our very compressible down jackets which have been more than enough, comfort-wise and more than ever seem well-worth the price we paid for them.

annhig

Why some of them remind me of ex-convicts (remember, I actually worked IN a prison once so I know "that look") i am not entirely sure.>>

I think we BOTH know the answer to that Dukey. When we've been to places like Vienna and Prague in winter, we took the other course so far as clothing was concerned and like you, had very warm top coats but lighter clothes underneath, because public buildings tend to be so well heated. That way, you leave your warm clothes at the garderobe and can walk round the museum etc in comfort.

Dukey1

We paid the Euro 8 fee to take the Ringstrasse "sightseeing" tram with its multi-lingual narration and enjoyed that. I am sure we could have done the whole thing much more cheaply and without narration but we were pleased with the results.

Lots of folks out on the streets shopping and looking well-dressed. Plenty of dogs on leases; some muzzled, others not. Some tour groups in evidence; very few folks of color for whatever reason. Sidewalks are clean despite the number of smokers; the "outdoor cafe" experience does not stop here (as it does not in Berlin) due to cooler weather. The heating elements are on, there are those laprobe/blankets at every seat and plenty of folks having coffee, etc. Even the Starbucks was busy!

The area outside of St. Stephan's was very crowded and inside there were lots of visitors.

The park areas still look pretty green although with turned leaves on the trees. i saw a couple of window boxes filled with geraniums and wonder if they have been taken in at nights.

tomarkot

Hi Dukey1, we've just caught your TR from Vienna and are enjoying it. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Having visited Vienna a few years ago, we can follow many of the sights you've mentioned.

We're in process of writing a TR from our recent trip to the "Alps". Leaving Salzburg, we were mentioning how beautiful that city would be around the holidays. And we're sure Vienna must be beautiful as well.

BTW, we did give nods in our TR to you and Cowboy1968 for your helpful information regarding the Freising-Munich line. Much appreciated, Dukey1.

fourfortravel

Dukey, the "outdoor cafe experience" does indeed stop here, officially from 16 November to 30 March (it's the law, say my Viennese friends). Around the holidays certain cafes are permitted to pay for an exemption to have outdoor seating, which is likely what you encountered (Cafe Landtmann comes to mind). Some retailers can also apply for an exemption permit to open on Sundays if they are situated amidst an Advent or Christmas market (as some are in Spittelberg, for example).

Vienna is an incredibly clean city. There is a street crew in our neighborhood at least twice a week, if not more; we joke that they are sweeping imaginary dirt. But then again, if I were paying approximately 50% income tax I would want my city to be clean, too.

Dukey1

The Cafe Aida I passed was nowhere close to the Landtmann but it was close to high end shopping and it was doing a land office business, too.

thursdaysd

Just found this. The food on American is no better, and in my case was positively harmful on my last flight. Be thankful you were stopped short of Security at Terminal 5, I did that transfer end of September and it took for ever.

I was just in Aix-en-Provence and saw the little chalets being set up for the market (the kids' rides were already going) and they didn't seem especially Christmassy to me, aside from the decorations. Jewelry, glass, hats... Not being a shopper, I found the process of creating them more interesting than the contents. Now I'm in Nice and haven't seen any signs of a Christmas market.

Dukey1

This morning began with mostly sun and very few clouds in evidence; temperature in the low 40’s.

After breakfast we set off walking toward the Kunsthorisches Museum. The route took us fist to the Michaelerplatz which fronts on the Michaelertor, the gate into the Hofburg. This gate is impressive in and of itself and sits across from the Michelerkirche which was the parish church of the emperors. On each side of the gate’s several huge doors are equally huge wall fountains depicting the “Mastery of the Land” and “Mastery of the Sea” respectively.

Across from all of this “baroque on steroids” architecture is the Looshaus, a building “inspired” by American skyscraper architecture (although it is hardly a skyscraper). The façade is rather “plain” with columns and panels in either marble or granite and when the thing was built it was controversial. The Emperor hated it so much that the curtains in the Hofburg windows facing the structure were supposedly kept closed so he wouldn’t have to look at it.

The large open area between the Hofburg itself and the remaining city wall gate opposite is also impressive for its size. A street performer of sorts was creating huge soap bubbles using rope loops suspended between two poles while standing at the base of the Emperor Joseph II equestrian statue. A bunch of adults with children had gathered to watch and the kids were delighted with the bubbles and chased them back and forth.

Across the Ringstrasse in the Maria-Theresien-Platz with its manicured yew, boxwood, and other shrubs, yet another Christmas market has been erected. This one is complete with holiday music (over loudspeakers).

There was a line to get into the museum. I assume this is partially due to the current Velazquez show. The entrance is impressive with its grand cupola complete with ceiling paintings, the just as grand stone staircase with the statue of Theresus slaying the Centaur. “Winged Victory” it may not be but the museum, even if it isn’t in the largest palace in Europe, contains some wonderful interior decoration, particularly the ceilings with the expected elaborate plasterwork, mouldings, gold leaf, and the usual extravaganza.

The Velazquez was very busy with individuals and more than a couple large tour groups.
We enjoyed some of the works more than others; I was impressed with the various Italian masterpieces and the room entitled “The Italian School” is jammed with stuff.

The seating inside is actually upholstered comfortably so it is easy to sit down and contemplate things for long periods.

I had completely forgotten just how much there is to see and do in this city and we talked about returning and spending several more days.

Lots of folks out and about today; cafes outside starting to fill up as we walked back to the hotel. The smells from the Christmas markets are enticing.

fourfortravel

As I am sure you know, the open area between Hofburg and the Ringstraße is Heldenplatz (Heroes Square); as you passed through you most likely noted the National Library, the balcony from which Hitler announced the Austrian Anschluss.

Glad you seem to be enjoying our adopted hometown.

Dukey1

Earlier this evening we ventured out for dinner and ended up in a small Italian trattoria just a couple of blocks from the hotel. The restaurant was wonderfully quiet with fast service; wonderful freshly-made minestrone and great mixed salads, too. We opted for a pasta dish as the main course and shipped the sweets after despite the friendly waiter reminding us that, "Sweets are very important here in Vienna" which is for sure.

Lots of people strolling and window along the Graben and the fabulous "pest column" along with the chandelier-style Christmas lights (which we have yet to see illuminated) gives the whole scene a sense of grandeur somehow. The city, at least these parts of it, seem somehow very refined.

Tomorrow we will try to view the "creche scene" in St. Peter's Church crypt at some point. We plan to spend the majority of time out at the Schonbrunn which will bring back, hopefully, many fond memories from my first visit back in 1970.

Bedar

The fun room at the Schonbrunn was, in 1965, the one with the 100 or so chamber pots arrayed next to a ballroom, I think. Let us know if it's stll there. I'd revisit that palace if only to see that room !!

Dukey1

Bedar, I am sorry to report that the chamber pots are either no longer in evidence or I totally missed them but what we DID see was the "English style" lavatory installed early in the last century (and I assume there was more than one but who knows?)

As above, after breakfast this morning we bundled up against the very damp cold and unfortunately totally overcast skies for the trip out to the Schonbrunn which we made by U-Bahn.

I will say the ticket machines in the stations are easy to use. What I found unusual was that in each station there is the oft-seen map of the area immediately surrounding the station, and also a large scale geographic map of the region showing the rail lines. What is NOT in evidence is a schematic of the entire system so you know where to change lines, etc. Those only appear inside the rail cars so if you do not know the route before you actually get on a train you are SOL. Fortunately I was able to pull one up using my cellphone.

The trip out from our hotel involved a couple of line changes but didn't take more than 15 minutes and the station is a fairly short walk from the palace grounds entrance.

Even though we were there before 9:00 Am we were certainly not alone, visitor-wise. Several organized groups were entering as we bought our tickets but the place was not crowded.

There is, not surprisingly, a fairly good-sized Christmas market set up in front of the palace complete with a large enclosed/carved figure creche scene and a very tall and fully lit tree that is obviously brought in for this occasion.

We did not want to wait for the organized tour in English so we opted for the longer of the two self-guided versions and used the audioguides. These were both easy to use and the diction was clear.

The interior is a Rococo stronghold. This so-called "late baroque" style which is supposedly "lighter" than, and a reaction to the Louis-Versailles "heavy" and earlier form certainly did not forsake things like gold leaf!!!

The three people who seem to have figured prominently in all of this "schloss" and its times were Franz-Josef, Maria Theresia, and the ultimately, and before that anorexic, assassinated Empress Elizabeth.

The interior has been beautifully preserved and is nicely presented. The "Room of the Millions" is as impressive now as it was when I first saw in back in 1970 and the fabrics on the "state bed" makes that Frette stuff seem absolutely chintzy in comparison.

Well worth the time and effort IMO.

We also visited the nearby carriage collection which included an early motor car, several charming chidren's carriages, a couple of royal sleighs, a golden state carriage which is truly remarkable, and finally, a huge black funeral coach which looks to be the size of a small railroad boxcar. Impressive for sure.

Early this afternoon we visited the nearby St. Peter's to view the creche scene presentation in the church's crypt area.

I had though this was going to be one of those "living" scenes we often see outside churches at home but this is a rather extensive collection of creche scenes from, literally, around the world. All of the 6 continents are represented. There were scenes with obvious "alpine" backgrounds (some in chalet-type buildings). Others included American indians with teepees, an African scene with observing giraffes and meercats, a Japanese scene with, for whatever reason, a pack of dalmatian dogs, Netherlands with a working windmill, Alaska had an igloo, a dog sled complete with tam, and polar bears, Vietnamese figures in soapstone, and on and on.

Very interesting. We went up to the main nave afterwards to catch the tail end of an organ concert (fortunately, for me, the instrument doesn't sound as baroque as the interior) and then returned to the hotel in a light rain.

On the way we noticed those chandelier-style holiday lights over the Graben are now illuminated.

And now I must say another word about my favorite fashion statement: scarves!!!

Of course everyone seems to feel they must be folded the exact same way (which is probably one reason I brought a black leather one and folded it completely differently) and today i saw at least TWO dogs which had scarves on as well.

Inside the Schonbrunn gift shop, two of the women at the cashier's desk had theirs on and it wasn't even snowing!!!

We ended up giving into the Christmas market across from the hotel entrance and bought some warm roasted nuts which were delicious.

Tomorrow morning we take the train to Salzburg.

DebitNM

We were in Vienna on Saturday as well, I thought I saw you at the rathaus!! Inside, where the tots were doing arts & crafts..

I had never seen Christmas markets, so found it to be quiet festive. We saw ones first in Prague, then Vienna, then Bratislava and as we are now in Budapest, we see them being set up here, but will miss the official opening on Friday.

Vienna was nicest, but Bratislava ' s was coziest.

2010

I've enjoyed following your steps in Vienna, Dukey. Not only am I interested in what you saw/did, I have made note of your choice of outerwear. As well, I am fascinated by your fashion sense! A leather scarf worn with flair - now that says something about your sense of style!

Dukey1

Actually it comes from all those years in riding leathers on a motorcycle and the whole concept of "Why be like everybody else?"

Dukey1

After a nice leisurely breakfast this morning we checked out of the hotel and made our way via the Vienna Metro to the Westbahnhof, which is decorated for the holidays, for the train to Salzburg. Spent about 45 minutes in the OBB First Class lounge which offers fairly comfortable seating, complimentary snacks, soft drinks, newspapers, TV news coverage (we watched the not-unexpected reaction to the Ferguson grand jury decision among other things) and a generally quiet area to wait in.

The train, which is underway as I type this, offers complimentary internet access, newspapers and magazines, and a pretty much stress-free way to move from one place to another.

I think we may be destined not to see the sun again during the remainder of the week. It is again totally overcast this morning and at 11:00 it is 37 degrees F. About what we have experienced during trips at this time of year and in this part of Europe in the past. It could be worse, obviously.

Dukey1

We arrived in Salzburg without incident and our room in the hotel in the "old town" was ready when we checked in. We decided to take a quick walk around and first visited the nearby collegiate church.

The interior walls, ceilings, etc., are all white and this includes the elaborate stucco works on the walls. What color there is comes from seven red marble pillars and the intense colors in the several side altars.

There was an advertisement in the apse for the usual "concert" this coming Sunday along with a "Hip-hop meditation" to be held in mid-afternoon!

Outside the church the daily "farm market" was set up but it appeared to be comprised mainly of holiday-related items such as candles and various types of wreaths many of which also incorporated candles.

We walked on to the cathedral with an over-the-top baroque interior. The ceilings of the various side altars have paintings (whether or not these are actual frescoes I do not know) which are elaborate in and of themselves. However, it is the many very elaborately carved ceilings and arches above these side altars that are spectacular IMO.

The church contains the font at which Mozart was baptized and no fewer than four smaller organs in addition to the great organ situated in a loft at the rear of the nave.

I noticed a lot of the side altars had the usual votive light stand but the one in the San Sebastian alcove had an absolutely huge candle stand ablaze with lights. The more usual Euro 1.00 donation was only Euro 0.60 here so who knows if that had anything to do with it.

Outside the cathedral in the front and on the sides is the Salzburg Christmas market and this one is extensive. The thing is large enough that there is an "information kiosk" (unmanned) with a map showing the various vendor locations similar to one you might find in a suburban mall.

The usual items for sale but also placemats and table linens (machine-made and I suspect in China), several soap vendors to include every conceivable soap on a rope item you can think of such as fish, ducks, stars, alphabet blocks, etc., etc., lots of straw ornaments, ceramic creche scenes, Tyrolean jackets and hats, revolving wind ornaments and gadgets at a stand entitled "Winterzauber" (as in magic), more candles and wreaths, candy, wurst, sandwiches, the lebkuken, and the mulled wine/cider, etc.

We had some "Weihnachts Schmarr'n" which essentially is a type of fried dough mixed with bits of apple and nuts sprinkled with confectioner's sugar and served with a choice of sauces (applesauce, plum sauce, chocolate sauce, and vanilla sauce). Along with this we had a "Mozart Trunk" which is warmed Bailey's, amaretto, and topped with one of the ubiquitous Mozartkugels designed to send people into chocolate heaven.

The old town has lots of visitors today and taxis were lined up on the periphery of the Christmas market area so you know how popular it is.

At the nearby Mozartplatz a skating rink complete with colored lights and music has been set up and a few folks were doing their best Peggy Fleming numbers.

Overall, the usually charming Salzburg scene complete with high-end shopping, cafes, souvenir stands, restaurants advertising schnitzel dishes with menus outside in various languages.

I've never been sure if Wolfgang would have been delighted or not but it is what it is and plenty of fun.

tomarkot

Dukey1, we're following your TR with interest. Our ongoing TR of our recent trip to the Alps included experiences in Salzburg. We enjoyed some of the things you described, but we weren't there to experience the Christmas markets. Glad you're enjoying your time in Salzburg!