I'm spending Christmas in Venice and wondering if there is anything in particular I need to see. I know there is Christmas mass at the Basilica San Marco. Anything else to put on the list? Also any restaurants that you know are open? I hear most places are closed. Thanks for the advice.

Hello lavenders

First and most importantly, do you have extra room in your suitcase for me?

Although I haven't had the pleasure of being in Venice on Christmas, I was there this past Easter Sunday, so perhaps there is a bit of similarity.

I am not a Catholic but still attended the service at the Basilica and found it very humbling and moving. The ceremonial entry of the various church leaders (dressed in their finery, carrying golden crosses and candlesticks, Bibles, etc. that must have come out of their treasury) was a sight to behold.

The service was, of course, in Italian, but ushers passed out a printed version of the homily in many different languages, so it was easy to follow the message.

When we entered, we saw something you never see on a normal tourist day. All the lights were on and the entire interior was aglow! The mosaics came alive for me as they were now so clearly seen.

And when the service was over, the congregants were allowed to photograph to their heart's content, everywhere!

A definite highlight was the golden, jewel-encrusted altar that was turned around during the service for all to see. It was absolutely fabuous to see it with the lights on. Absolutely fabulous!

My family and I spent Christmas in Venice in 2004, and watched the Tsunami tragedy unfold on the TV. Be prepared for the possibility of high-water this time of year.

Mass of Christmas morning was the true highlight of that part of the trip, even though we are not Catholic. The city is very quiet during the holidays and closes down early. Just do a lot of walking and wandering.

I now have a deeper understanding of the phrase, "don't rain on my parade." Who would have known that in under 5 seconds someone could bring down the joy and excitement of Christmas in Venice to a flat zero. Any other trajedies someone would like to share to really flatten lavenders holiday joy?

grapes--

I don't get where you are coming from. Sandi gave practical travel advice (be prepared for the possibility of high water, the city is quiet) and put the timing of her visit in context (Christmas 2004, the year of the tsunami which obviously had an emotional impact on her trip). And, she commented on the highlight of her trip. What part of this is quashing lavender's high hopes?

I wish I had realized that the city was so quiet during Christmas and I probably would have scoped out more concerts and things ahead of time. As it was, we filled the evening with wandering around the magical city.

If you cannot handle the truth about what really may be going on in the city at that time, then just don't respond.

Have you been to Venice during Christmas?

Hi,
If you see the display of the creche's that are in competition at a closed church, would you place the address on this board? We were their last Jan 4th and wandered into it and I would like to take my family to see it this year. Haven't had any luck finding out the address so far. My sister said yesterday, when you leave the vaporette stop at St. Marks, go over 2 bridges and down a street and their it is(wasn't that helpful of her)?

Hi, swisshiker,

you may be able to answer a few questions I had been saving up til closer to the time ie how to get into the easter sunday service in san marco, as we wil be there over easter nexct year.

like you I'm not catholic [or anything] but sing a lot of religious music in my choir and would love the experience of a service in this wonderful church.

what time was the service, how early did you tuen up, is there a special door to use?

I'd be really grateful for any info that you can give me.

Lavenders - have great time.

regards, ann

regards, ann

Hello annhig

I'm happy to help you out as much as I am able. It was, as I said, a fabulous experience, and I hope you can enjoy it also.

There are several masses throughout the morning and also a vespers (singing I think??) in the afternoon. I can't remember the exact time, but give me a couple days to dig out my journal and I'll have the specific info for you then.

The entrance you use is NOT the main entrance in the front. They will not let you in if you go there (many tourists were turned away at these doors).

Instead, use the side entrance (looking at the front of the church from the square, go around the left side, past those crouching lions or whatever they are. I'm not talking about in the alleyway - not that far. Just to the side of the church.

You will then see a couple gentlemen waving the people in (some were waved out). I just stood there awhile, sort of listened to what the Italians were saying, then said "mass-a" (that's what I heard, and I said it in my best Italian accent possible, but coming from Texas that's not always easy ), and with that, I got the nod and the wave to come in.

The place was packed, seats took up the entire floor. I sat in the center, about halfway back.

There were, of course, some people with their cameras strapped around their necks, videotaping the priests as they walked by (i had to restrain myself not to say something to them about behavior in a church, lol).

But when it was over and I saw the gobs of people taking photos, I whipped out my ever-ready purse camera and shot photos to my heart's content. (Until they told us to leave as there was another service starting soon.)

Lots of music, singing, the wonderful organ playing. The pomp and pagentry of it all was a bit overwhelming for me, but it was truly wonderful.

After Christmas, I'll get out that journal and find out the time and when I got there.

Happy travels!

Hello again ann

I found my journal and drat! it doesn't have the time, only that I attended, the Cardinal gave the homily, and all the mosaics were lit up.

Seems to me, tho, there was a sign posted in the front with the various times of the services. Or ask in the church giftshop.

Hi swisshiker,

thank you soooo much. trying to find your journal on boxing day is beyond the call of duty, even for a fodorite.

I'm sure that with that level of information, I'll be able to sort out something-we arrive late on Good friday, so I've got the whole of saturday to organise myself. this is the joy of going for a week -there's time to spend on things like this. though my first stop of the saturday will definitely be the rialto market to get in supplies for the weekend.

thanks again,

regards, ann