KayF

Hi, we are in the early planning stages of where to go for Christmas. We had our first cold Christmas last December in London (we live in the UK now) and loved it. We had an apartment and got out and about and found tons to do.

This year we are contemplating France, either the area around Strasbourg or the area around Aix-en-Provence. I'm leaning towards Strasbourg as it sounds easy to get around by train/bus.

What do people think? Has anyone been there over Christmas? Our dates would be roughly 22 Dec - 31 Dec.

Which would you choose and why?

Specifically I was wondering how bad the weather gets. I've checked seasonal averages on the web, if we rugged up in coat and hat etc would it be too unpleasant outdoors?

Also are these the types of places that 'shut down' over that period. I know Strasbourg has a famous Christmas market but that finishes on Christmas Eve. Is it dead after that? We want somewhere with a bit of life, though I suppose most things will close Christmas Day.

I'd really appreciate any help.
Kay

kerouac

Absolutely Strasbourg.

Some can find it disgustingly touristy at Christmas, but they just don't have the Christmas spirit.

Pvoyageuse

"Which would you choose and why?"

Actually your question is : will you help me make a choice?
Which is sort of unfair because people do not know what YOU expect of a Christmas abroad.
Christmas Day is pretty "dead" everywhere in France. It's a family day.

KayF

Thanks Kerouac, one vote for Strasbourg! Your description sounds wonderful to us.

Would you know if there would be places open to eat on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day - anything, even Chinese or pizza, we aren't fussy.

I think I'd prefer to stay in a hotel but an apartment would be a necessity if we had to make a meal because everything was shut on certain days.

Thanks, Kay

KayF

Pvoyageuse - it's not an unfair question at all - it's the whole point of this forum!! To ask questions of other travellers and to learn from their experiences.

OK, Christmas Day will be dead, thank you.
Kay

Underhill

Strasbourg has a wonderful Christmas market, but many Provençal towns and villages have markets too.

Pvoyageuse

" it's the whole point of this forum!! To ask questions of other travellers and to learn from their experiences"

Depends on the questions. Some are OK, some are sometimes irrelevant. Like asking if it is going to be dead the day after Christmas Eve in Strasbourg, of all places. )

PBProvence

If you love the cold, stick to Strasbourg.

Temps here in Provence are warmer (we've often had Christmas lunch on our sunny terrace) and there aren't millions of Christmas lights and decorations. We do have some good Christmas markets - mostly centered around food and the famous "treize desserts" (thirteen desserts) that Provence is famous for.
There are also wonderful midnight masses on Christmas Eve with locals in traditional costume.
But if you like cold, wet or snowy, it sounds like Strasbourg is for you.

Patricia

kerouac

In tourist towns like Strasbourg, you will never have a problem finding a restaurant for Christmas dinner -- the German tourists would starve to death if Strasbourg closed its restaurants.

KayF

Thank you everyone for the replies. It seems we'll be able to eat in Strasbourg but be warm in Provence! I think it will be a tough choice as both areas sound great.

Does anyone know how easy it would be to get around the Provence area by train/bus, in late Dec? Would we be able to get to the villages?

Anyone know if restaurants/cafes would be open on Christmas Eve/Christmas Day in Aix-en-Provence or other nearby big towns?

Thanks, Kay

PBProvence

Kay,

It's difficult to really get to most of the villages by train or bus - especially during holiday season when the trains are on holiday schedules. Large towns and cities are accessible by train (Avignon, Arles, Nimes, Salon-de-Provence, Aix, Isle sur la Sorgue)

Many restaurants will be open Christmas Eve... it's a big night out around here.
Christmas day you will find some cafés open, but very few restaurants.

I won't promise that it will be warm at Christmas here in Provence...global warming, you know !

Patricia

KathyWood

It sounds like you are favoring Strasbourg-- which is lovely-- but I thought I'd add some thoughts about Christmas in Provence.

Our family lived in Provence for 6+ months (near the village of Bonnieux) a few years ago and spent a Christmas there. We absolutely loved it, though it is not the "fairytale" Christmas setting that we experienced in Bavaria and Salzburg in other years. We did try to follow the local Christmas customs.

Aix-en-Provence had a Christmas market, including a santon fair. We also enjoyed visiting the Christmas creches in several of the villages. On Christmas Eve we went to the midnight mass in our village. The L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market was going strong the day after Christmas (a Sunday) and the Aix market was busy on Tuesday. The weather was chilly (coats, hats, gloves), and we actually had a bit of snow on that Tuesday.

You could read about our Christmas experience in Provence here: http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/kaydee/...es/000758.html (including some photos.

As Patricia said, you would be limited to larger towns without a car. You definitely need a car to see the villages, but it isn't difficult at all to drive.

Kathy

BTilke

If you opt for Strasbourg, you have the benefit of several day trip options on train. The pretty German spa town of Baden-Baden is quite close by, you could also head down to Freiburg and even to Basel, Switzerland, all on direct trains (no changes).
I wouldn't count on snow, or at least not more than a light dusting (if you're lucky).

KayF

Thanks so much for all the info and the SlowTrav link. We are keen on both areas, I think the weather is a big factor. We found London OK last Christmas but are not sure if it was a very mild December as we've never been in the northern hemisphere in winter before. I'll do some more research on temperatures and a bit more reading.

Any more thoughts would be great.
Thanks again, Kay

jay

Kay, we ahve done both and both are nice options. Btilke's advice is good for Strasbourg. We took a trip on her (or his) advice and had a nice day at the spa along with trips to Colmar, Riquier and Mulhouse. The weather was great. Low 50's so fleece was perfect.

Provence was a bit warmer and very nice at Christmas. There are plenty of markets and tons to see and do. Most of Christmas is pretty subdued compared to here but it is still nice. Christmas eve is the big night so book ahead for dinner. If you stayed say in Aix or Avingion you could be anywhere along the coast by train in an hour or two. The weather in provence was in the high 50's to low 60's.

But as you know weather in both places can change.

As far as what I would choose again I think I would go with Provence. Little warmer I liked the food better and I think that there was more to do.

You will have fun in either place.

robertino

Hi Kay -

It may be a bit of a squeeze, but you could do both. Use Christmas Day, when everything is quiet, as your travel day from Strasbourg to Aix.

KayF

Thanks everyone. We ended up deciding to stay in Nice on the Cote d'Azur in an apartment. It seems we can easily reach other towns and villages by bus or train and in Nice itself, there are markets, shops, walks, museums and lots of places to eat. We booked a lovely apartment through http://www.nicepebbles.com/ I found them on the SlowTrav site.

Hopefully we will have sunny but crisp days - not too cold!
Kay

ILUVPARIS

Has anyone been to a Christmas Market after Christmas? We'll be in Paris from 12/26 to 1/1. I had planned to go to Strasborg for one day via the high speed train because I've always wanted to see one of the European Christmas Markets. I'm just wondering what the atmosphere will be like after the holiday? Before we make the journey I thought I'd check to see if vendors begin tearing things down right after Christmas even though the market doesn't officially end until 12/31.

Monkmoor

The cote'd'azur and Provence make a wonderful winter destination. You get the sunshine and also can combine that with some skiing - the alps are only 90 minutes or so from central Nice. Take a look at http://www.nice-city-vacation.com/nice-skiing.html

Have a good 'un!