My wife and I were in Paris from December 18th through December 29th. We started planning after we returned from Paris last November. We thought "How cool would it be to go to Paris during Christmas and attend Midnight Mass at Notre Dame"? Being in another country for the holidays was very inviting. With the help of Fodorites, we had a plan of action. First, a disclaimer: The views and opinions of this sole traveler are in no way meant to offend anyone. I am a fun loving person who tells it like I see it. There will be some subjects that might not sit right with some but it's what I saw and felt. I am electronically challenged as you will find out. I love to make fun of myself, and will. My wife has put up with me and my silliness for 35 years and I still get "The Look" when she thinks I'm pushing it. Enough babble, let's get started........

Well, where is ? I'm ready!

Me, too! CJ

Waiting.....

Bring it on!

----- a disclaimer ---- no way meant to offend anyone -- who tells it like I see it ---- might not sit right with some ----- I saw and felt ----

With that led in, I can imagine what was to follow -- Set up for rude and crude -- probably has already been pulled. I think I can wait.

December 17-18, A day from Hell with a happy ending.
We had a 6:30AM flight from Chicago to NY. We awoke at 3:30AM and prepared to arrive at the Airport at 4:30. We found the airport to be like a ghost town, very few people. "Why am I here 2 hours before takeoff?, because it's the rules! We had printed our boarding passes and went straight to the "check your own bags Machine". Not a good move. I couldn't figure out how to get the scanner to read our boarding passes but it also said we could use our Passports. I waved and waved, switched hands and waved again but nothing happened. A baggage attendant came to the rescue and took my passport and put it in the little slot and slid it to the right and like magic, all my info appeared on the screen. I felt like an idiot! We proceeded to the gate and waited for the "Now Boarding" announcement. I am not a good flier so I took my Xanax 1 hour before liftoff. The announcement comes and I wait for the more fortunate people in 1st class and BC to board. We were group 6 but I was starting to drift and made my way into line during group 2. I got "The Look" from my wife but I had to get to my seat and go to sleep. I hate takeoffs. On our other trips to Europe we went Business Class but this time I didn't have enough miles so we flew coach, OUCH! We got to our seats and I turned on my I-Pod and drifted off. I awoke 1 1/2 hours later and asked my wife where we were and she said on the ground. "Were Here"? NO, we haven't taken off yet. SH--!
Seconds later we were off to NY (La Guardia) and an 8 hour layover, how exciting! Uneventful flight, only a few bumps. We retrieved our baggage and went to the transportation desk to announce our arrival and have our reserved ride pick us up and take us to JFK for our flight to Paris. We didn't mind the 45 minute wait because we were in no hurry. Arrived at JFK and checked our bags 6 1/2 hours before the flight, scary! Having been in NY before I knew I wanted a Hot Pastrami sandwich. We asked around and were told to take the tram to Terminal 4 because they had the biggest variety of food and I would find a deli there. WRONG! After walking around for awhile we realized that it was all junk food and no deli. I can't believe I am going to admit this but we ate at McD. My stomach started to churn before I even had the food. Walked around some more and headed back to "our" terminal. Only 5 hours left Needless to say we finally boarded. Coach for 7 hours, Yippee! The flight was pretty smooth for all 7 hours and after eating what they call food and dozing off for awhile, I started to read a book. My wife didn't complain much on board but I frequently got up and jogged around the isles making faces at all the kids who were awake trying to get a smile. I did get some smiles but also dirty looks from parents who thought I might be dangerous, I'm not, just silly. With an hour to go I actually felt relieved that I was going to survive "coach". Landed smoothly and headed to baggage. Our bags were some of the first ones out! We headed to the train to buy our Navigo passes and a couple of 10 packs of train and metro tickets. My wife takes over here because she speaks enough French for us to get by. We also had to purchase a RER ticket for our trip to central Paris. We use backpack type luggage and after getting geared up we headed for the turn styles. I put my ticket in and was rewarded with the machine spitting my ticket out and warning signs going off that it wasn't valid. My wife tried and thankfully hers didn't work either, if it had I would have felt like an idiot. Back to the counter where we bought the ticket. Big line, I didn't care, I waved and got her attention and she waved me to the front, Damn Americans, no patience. She did something to the tickets and told us to use the closest machine on the right. Bingo, we were through and on our way. After 2 transfers on the Metro we arrived at Ecole Militaire, After 22 hours of hell, the finish line and our Hotel on Rue Cler was becoming a reality. But NO, I take out my GPS and after receiving the satellites I find Grand Hotel Leveque and hit go. Before I go into what happens next, I know form posting earlier about using a GPS that most would simply ask for directions or use a map. Not an electronically challenged person like me. I like to torture myself. The arrow pointed ahead and said to go to a street I couldn't remember. We started walking and I noticed that the arrow was now pointing behind me we turned around. The GPS said, "Recalculation" and pointed a different direction and said to proceed to this street. I am really getting frustrated and am ready to throw the damn thing against a wall. After 40 minutes of walking around with luggage on our backs and being up what seemed like days my wife gave me "The Look" and asked a sweet little french woman where Rue Cler was. With directions in hand we walked back the way we came and upon turning the corner and seeing Rue Cler, I realized that I was only 100 yards from where we got off the train. DOH! Now for the Happy ending to our day. Our faces lit up as we started to walk up the street seeing the hotel sign ahead. We were so tired and glad to be near our new home that even the 14 people singing Christmas carols and the Santa who was giving out candy to all the kids were not going to stop us from getting into the hotel to unpack and take a nap. I didn't even want a glass of wine! Checked in and went to the 5th floor and were very happy to open the door and enter our home for 5 days. After entering we realized that maybe we would have to take turns moving around because the room was very small. Nap time. Couple of hours later we were walking around Rue Cler checking out all the shops and watching the locals buy their goods and move on. We said "Bonjour" to everyone and every so often someone would actually reply. I blurted out "Joyeux Noel" and then asked my wife if I was saying it right because I was not getting any response. I'm in Paris so I don't care. We decided on an early dinner locally and chose Cafe Du Marche. Had some wine before dinner and then some more and finally 1 1/2 hours later we ordered. I had the Duck and Julie had the veal special. The duck dish was nothing special, average at best but Julie's veal dish was very good. We sat and talked to an old-timer, Tony for an hour or so before heading back to the hotel. We couldn't resist. There was a crepe maker right across from the hotel and so we shared a Nutella and Banana crepe, Heaven! Started to walk toward Champs de Mars but the snow was coming down pretty good and we couldn't see the Tower to guide us so we turned around and went to our room. After my wife was done getting her PJ's on it was my turn to walk around and get ready for some sleep. It was only 7PM and as she fell asleep, I was watching cartoons in French. Couldn't understand a word they said but laughed anyway, Goodnight!

fmpden: I don't think you will find any of it "Rude and Crude"

I agree -- but why the set up ??? not sit right, offend? Don't get it but something must be coming.

PS -- I am waiting because we were in Strasbourg during the same time period.

So yours was the plane bouncing up and down as you jogged! I heard about that.

Get the impression that Grand Hotel Leveque wasn't large?!

Keep it going and try to be rude so above poster will settle down.

December 19th. I woke up at 7:15 in the morning. Almost 12 hours of sound sleep. I can't remember the last time I slept that long. My wife is still asleep so I take off to find some coffee. I go to Cafe Du Marche and Introduced myself to MIchael who was working behind the bar. Order an American coffee. I prefer this because it is much larger than the ones the French drink. It is still very strong but I want quantity. I take it outside under the heaters for my morning smoke. I watch all the neighborhood folks go about their business and watch as some of the stores (markets) fill their space and get ready to open. It is snowing again and I am surprised to see all the umbrellas. I order 2 more coffees to go and head over to the Boulangerie and purchase 2 Chocolate croissants and head back to the hotel. The Grand Hotel Leveque has a very strange rule about not taking food or drink to the room. I pretend not to know that and get into the smallest elevator I have ever seen, blocking my goods from view. Successful mission, I go up. Entering the room I notice that my wife is still sleeping. Julie is not a morning person and I tremble as I try and wake her. We are in Paris and she wakes up with sort of a smile! After our breakfast we walk out on our balcony and admire the action below. Time to get ready for our City Free Walking Tour with Chris. Off to the metro and I am happy that the GPS is in my pocket where it might stay. We arrive at the assigned meeting place, Etienne Marcel, nobody there. We are early so we walked around and realized that we were close to Les Halles and so we went into some stores but weren't really shopping. Back to the meeting place and as we walk up Chris arrives. We are taking the Marais/Bastille tour. We introduce ourselves and he knows without asking even though I have on a Black wool jacket with a scarf and my very French Kangol hat that we are from the States. I thought I looked like a Parisian but I guess I am not fooling anyone. Eventually 8 other people arrive and they are all from the States. Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey. Chris gets us started as the snow starts to fall again. We walked past Les Halles to where the Gothic church Saint Eustache and the Chamber of Commerce building were. I moved away from the group to take a picture of the Church and pressed the button but nothing happened. I looked at the camera and it told me the battery was dead, SH--!After explaining some French History we moved on and the snow fell harder. We proceeded past the Hotel De Ville which we found out is not a hotel but a city hall. Didn't know that. The ice skating rink looked inviting but I didn't think the group would wait so we went into the Jewish area and heard some sad tales about what went on there. After passing the Pompidou center and learning how important he was we moved through the Marais area and went to Place des Vosges. When we snaked through a cool little neighborhood we started walking down a busy street and I mentioned to one of the other guys how my wife and I have been in the Tapas bar around the corner. He became very interested and started asking questions about taking my wife to such a place. I was puzzled until he said "Topless" bar. No, No, NO, TAPAS! He seemed less interested. Our tour ended at the Bastille Metro and we said our goodbyes and hopped on another train. The tour is well worth it, they work on tips. Chris was informative and funny. I would recommend their tours. Since my battery was dead in the camera we decided to go back to the hotel and charge it. While waiting , we went around the corner and had a light lunch at La Terrasse in the 7th. Ham and Cheese for me and Julie had a cup of French Onion Soup. Very good and while we were waiting for our lunch there was a 4-5 year old at the next table who didn't want to be there. That was my cue. I started sticking my tongue out (Not yet BG) and making faces and he laughed and pointed at me and probably thought I was weird. His parents seemed to like the laughter. He calmed down and kept looking at me to see what I would do next. I didn't see it but I knew I was getting "The Look" from my wife during this. Back to the hotel, camera is charged. After showering we headed to the Theatre de la main d'or for our evening entertainment with the one man show "How to become a Parisian in one hour". We hopped on the Metro and exited at our stop and I'm ready for round 2 with the GPS. I pull up the theater and hit go. It tells me to keep walking on the street we were on, progress! then it said to turn left on the street the theater was on, I'm excited, it's working. All of the sudden the arrow starts to go behind me even though we haven't gotten to the next street. How could this be? We turned around and started walking the other way. Got maybe 50 yards and the arrow turns around again? SH--! Turns out there was a little alley that I didn't notice because I was staring at the Damn GPS and walked right past it. Couldn't blame the GPS for that. We turned and found the theater with no problem. Maybe it was worth it after all to use it. This guy (Olivier Giraud) was very funny and he touched on subjects involving, eating, drinking, getting on and off trains (more on this later), how Americans pronounce French words which my wife immediately turned and laughed with "The Look" because I am one of those who can't pronounce some of the words so I make up my own, for instance, the metro stop where we stay in the Latin Quarter is Maubert Mutualite but I call it Marcel Marceau, easier to remember.(disclaimer) I have lots of cute names for metro stops. He also talked about French women and lots of sexual innuendos. The show advertised that it was 100% English but he said some things in French that the audience roared at. We laughed too but not sure at what? The show was only an hour, guess the title was right but funny and well worth it. Off to the Champs-Elysees (you can just imagine how I pronounced this when I first saw the sign years ago)Christmas Market. We walked up the steps from the metro and there is the giant Ferris Wheel all lit up. My wife was pointing out how we were supposed to cross the street but I would have none of that and started directly across in a straight line, didn't make it very far before the lights changed and cars were coming from every direction, another "Look". We made it safely across and headed straight for the Vin Chaud we had read so much about. 3 Euros sounded good to me. We touched glasses, I told her how much I Loved her, smiling like we had won the lottery and took our first sip, AHH! I could feel my innards start to warm and glow. There were not that many people there and we enjoyed the market even more. At first we went to every booth and oohd and ahhd at everything, time for a second Vin Chaud. We realized quickly that a lot of the booths had the same stuff so we started moving quicker, the warmth and glow is growing.Time for a short break so I start to look for a Bathroom, or toilette or W/C. Finally I ask after not knowing which way to go. I arrive and an attendant asks me for .50 euros. I asked him "what for" and learned that you had to pay to pee. It was the best .50 euros I have ever spent. More Vin Chaud. We decided to just stand and watch other people because that is what real Parisians do. We were overwhelmed by the beauty of all the lights and decorations. We had already seen most of it thanks to Fodorites but being there "Live" was orgasmic We walked all the way down one side and started up the other when we realized we needed to eat. Found a booth with some smoked sausages and grilled onions on a baguette but first more Vin Chaud. We had a wonderful sandwich and then the the body started to shut down from all the travel and walking (Vin Chaud) we had done in the last 48 hours. Decided to head back to the hotel. After crossing the street the right way, much easier, we turned around and enjoyed a special moment looking back on what we had just experienced. It was a magical moment and one we will never forget. Au revoir!

Sounds not so bad so far. I have spent endless hours for airport connections, so I know what that's all about. The only thing I've noticed so far is that we risk a moment of "impatience" at the wrong time, but luckily "the look" was there to keep things under control, until, horrors, the bad thing happened.....

Ah, things are under control so far, great.
However, you did not see the Chamber of Commerce (the round building) at Les Halles. You saw the Bourse du Commerce (the commodities market). However, I am absolutely willing to believe that the guide got it wrong. Most people will concentrate on the word "commerce" and try to find any other name that fits.

Anyway, Travelbound44, I will stick my neck out before the others tell you.

Break

up

your

paragraphs

a bit more.

OK, kerouac, will do. When we first arrived at the Leveque, We knew we both could not fit in the lift at the same time so my wife started up the stairs but I walked into the lift with my backpack suitcase on and immediately realized I could not turn around. I managed to hit the floor button but the door would not close until I pressed my face up against the back glass. When I got to my floor I had to back out but at first I couldn't because of my backpack. I had to shove my way out backwards. Never seen one that small.

Your right about the guide. I had no idea what the building was, just listened to what he said. Thanks for the correction.

Monday December 20th.
Got up and headed for coffee with Michael at the cafe. Enjoyed 2 cups while people watching going up and down Rue Cler. I noticed that I had seen some of them before. Bought a coffee to go for my wife and headed back to the hotel.

I noticed that it didn't get light until almost 9AM. I don't understand how it gets lighter later in Paris than Chicago when you are so much farther East where the sun comes up. Can someone explain this to me?

My wife and I are not museum people but from reading many posts on Fodors we decided to buy a museum pass and see for ourselves. While my wife was showering (TMI?), I went in search of the pass. Metro to Invalides, up the stairs and I am a long way from any museum. It is snowing pretty hard and I marvel at the people who are on their mopeds slowly making there way through traffic. I have one but it stays in the garage after the temps get below 50. I think these people are nuts! I start walking towards the Grand Palace figuring I can get a pass there. According to the website, I can purchase at any Museum. After my long walk I notice a door that is partially open and figure it is calling me to enter here. Nobody in here. I walk around the building to the next entrance and am told to go around to the next entrance. I see lots of people but don't want to get in line so I go up to a guy who looks like he works there with his official looking badge. I don't speak more than 10 words of French so I ask him in French if he speaks English. Little. I explain what I am looking for and he starts to pat his chest and pointing towards the front of the line. I have no idea what he is trying to tell me. Then he points at his umbrella, does a full body scan with his hands and points up front. What? I get it! He wants me to go see the other guy dressed like him. I'm learning French I ask the other gentleman if he speaks English and he says, a little. I ask about the pass and he says I have to go to the Louvre. I have been gone around an hour and figure that I will go back and get Julie and we will both go to the Louvre for the pass and then check out the Louvre, makes sense.

Julie looks beautiful and is raring to go. Back to the metro and away we go. We found our way around easily and purchased the pass and followed the signs to the entrance. Once inside we were in awe of just how grand a building it is and felt like we were in a maze. Reading the floor plan we decided to start at the top and work our way down. Some paintings were awesome while others did nothing for us. After wandering around for an hour I realized that you needed many days to see everything so we did what tourists do and headed for the most famous. I'm not going to list everything we saw but with so few people around we were able to find Mona Lisa and walked as close as you can get to it. Not a very large painting and even though it's famous, it does nothing for me. I liked a lot of what I saw while walking around and found ourselves overwhelmed by the beauty of most. Spent 2 1/2 hours and decided to leave or we would be there for the rest of our vacation.

Headed towards the Marais area for lunch at Zango's, a TAPAS bar. After consulting our waiter William and checking our French to English Menu guide we had an idea of what to order but William said he would bring us his 6 best and we agreed.
Lunch was wonderful and we were happy with Zango's.

Our next stop was the Pompidou Center. Since we went by it during our walk I didn't need to get out the GPS. Fantastic design and very inviting. Used our pass to enter and were told to go to the 4th floor. We did as told and road the outside escalators up watching the people below get smaller and smaller. I'm not sure how to describe the feeling I had while going through various areas of modern art which I felt was demeaning to women and very graphic. I became very uncomfortable and with my Catholic upbringing I didn't like what I was seeing. I felt bad for my wife but she said it was art. I am not a Holy Roller but this was not for me. We did walk through other areas where I liked some of it but it was time to go. We did go up to Georges Restaurant for the view but it was foggy and raining so we decided to leave.

On the way back to the hotel I saw Le Florimond which was on my list of restaurants to try. We walked over and with our French Menu translation book we started to dissect the menu. The door opened and the chef Pascal asked if we needed help. We asked about a reservation for tonight and he put us down and said not to worry about the menu, our waiter spoke English and would explain. Perfect!

After napping because of all the walking, we headed over to the restaurant as it was opening. I had read a post about a Kir and Peach drink someone was raving about and had written it down. We ordered it and absolutely loved it. Had no idea what Kir was. Thanks for the tip. Our waiter explained the menu and the specials and we ordered Confit de Canard for me and my wife had the En face à face which was a Beef Sirloin with a violet mustard sauce. It also came with a small crock of Beef Bourguignon. The meal was outstanding. Can't express how good it was. The Beef Bourguignon was the best thing I have ever eaten. We share our meals to an extent. For dessert, thanks to Joan, we had the Millefeuille. WOW! The bottle of wine the waiter suggested was perfect with our meal. We had a great time and met some nice people and when leaving after thanking them several times we met 6 young ladies on the way out who asked in English if we enjoyed our meal. We said absolutely YES and told them about the Beef Bourguignon. They became very excited because they said that this was what they came for.

We watched the police tow a souped up motorcycle from the curb and take it away. Back to the hotel for much needed rest before our day trip to Strasbourg on Tuesday.
Au revoir

The reason it gets light so late at that time of year is because Paris is north of Montreal.

I was going to post the same thing for daylight hours-- Chicago sits on the 42 parallel and Paris is around the 48 or 49th which is basically the northern border between the US and Canada. Not only is the sun up later and down earlier is also much weaker because of the low angle so even when the sun is up it not very warm.

Thank You for the info. We couldn't figure out why that was, now we know.