Christmas in Paris, Strasbourg Christmas Markets
Jan 7th, 2011, 05:36 AM
#22
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December 21, Day trip to Strasbourg.
The shops on Rue Cler do not open until 7AM. I was up at 6 looking for coffee. The night manager at the hotel was kind enough to brew some for me. Stood in front of the hotel staring at an empty street until the manager of the La Sablaise Poissonnerie arrived to set up his fresh fish market. I greeted him and he returned the greeting, good start to the day.
We hopped on the metro and our first destination was Gare de l'Est for our high speed train ride to Strasbourg. Arrived with plenty of time to spare and bought some sandwiches for the ride. While Julie was having her coffee the train arrived on it's assigned track. We boarded and found our seats in first class, very cozy.
We have been on several high speed trains in Europe and I think the US should be ashamed of themselves because the trains in Europe are very comfortable, high speed and you can't even tell they're moving sometimes. Only when a train is going in the opposite direction do you feel the train. Our long distance trains suck in comparison. Our trains stay on the track 9 out of 10 times (Amtrak)!
The trip to Strasbourg is just over 2 hours. There were announcements of the stops and other announcements we couldn't understand. I looked at the time and realized that we were very close to arrival. NOT! Turns out we were behind schedule because of the weather? It was sunny!
We arrive in Strasbourg an hour late but who cares. Exiting the train into a beautiful station, we headed to the info booth for our map which was in a small Christmas market across the street from the station. Map in hand, we made our way into the city. We didn't buy a pass for the tram because we thought we could walk the city. Our first stop was Eglise Saint-Pierre le Jeune a Catholic church that has an organ played by Mozart from the 1500's, very cool! We kept wandering around without a plan and came across another Catholic church, Saint Thomas which was large and beautiful inside. The Children's Village was around the corner and we watched as all the kids were having the time of their life riding the miniature rides. I eyed the carousel and asked Julie if we could go on it, pretty please? Got "The Look" I'm just a kid who won't grow up. Maybe she is afraid of the horse? Came upon Place Kleber and it's giant Christmas tree. We purchased our first Vin Chaud of the day for 2 euros. Under the tree are many presents and a small village that is a pleasure to look at. Consulted the map and then thought, what the hell let's just follow the people and we ended up at Christkindelmärik Market in Place Broglie, the largest market in Strasbourg. We were delighted at the sights, sounds and smells. Another Vin Chaud. We spent over 2 hours walking around in this area and loved every minute of it. Our goal as a couple was to find Christmas ornaments to bring home. We didn't see anything special in Paris but Strasbourg had an incredible assortment of hand made and hand painted ornaments in all kinds of sizes. We purchased the ones we liked and also bought one for our friend who was watching our house back home. She is a Christmas decoration freak and will love the ornament we got for her.
The market had anything and everything you could want as far as decorations. The light was slowly fading and all the decorative lights that could be bought were dancing. We have never felt as "Christmassy" as we did while in this market. Time to eat and we had an array of goods to choose from. Decided on what they called pizza baguette but it looked like an open face Ham and Cheese sandwich that was piled high with the goods, YUMMY! We were getting tired from all the walking so we decided to rest while enjoying the rest of Stasbourg via the tram system. After sightseeing while on our butts, riding in comfort for 45 minutes we arrived back at Christkindelmärik Market. Time to move on and it's getting dark and the city is alive with lights, absolutely gorgeous!
We visited other markets but after being at the Christkindelmärik Market we found the others to pale in comparison. Don't get me wrong about this. All the markets had their own theme and each was very special. The different breads, cookies, pastries, and just all the different decorations were breathtaking. We stopped at the outdoor ice rink set up for skaters at Place du Chateau and watched both young and old fly, fall or otherwise stand around the ice.
Now it is completely dark and Strasbourg is magical! After checking out the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg which is an awesome sight both inside and out we headed back to Place Kleber to check out the giant Christmas tree all lit up. We were not disappointed. Not only was the tree glowing but the village below was alive with lights and color. I'm getting goose bumps remembering how it looked. Another Vin Chaud and I might have not listed a couple of others.
We had purchased a few items such as cookies, more cookies and finally cookies during our excursion through Strasbourg. We needed something for the train ride back.
I just realized I forgot to mention the beautiful walk along the canal and the beauty and friendliness of La Petite France. All in all it was a fantastic day trip and I will never forget the feeling we had while there. It is a magical place around Christmas. We didn't think it was that crowded at all. I've seen more people during rush hour in Chicago while walking to a train.
Back to the train station, but first, some food. We stop at Grille Courtepaille at Place de la Gare which is across the street from the train station. The waiters didn't speak very much English and we were having a hard time communicating with them, their country, our fault, so another patron came over and started to translate our questions. We ordered just a simple cheeseburger with fries for Julie and a mushroom burger and fries for me. The waiter smiled and headed back with our order. He then came back and was trying to tell us a problem when our friendly patron came to our rescue again. They didn't have any cheese, WHAT? The menu had several dishes with cheese and through our translator we asked if they could put another kind of cheese on the burger, it didn't matter what kind. Our translator said they couldn't because the burgers were pre-made, WHAT? Being tired from all the walking and Vin Chaud we gave up and Julie settled for just a hamburger. Turns out the mushroom burger I had was made with the mushrooms cooked within the bread that served as a bun. I guess they ran out of bread with cheese and they couldn't understand that they could just put a piece of cheese on the hamburger. Not the way they cook it, we were told. Strange? The burgers were good and we were happy. Back to the train station for our ride back to Paris but first, UH_OH!
I have always had a very touchy stomach and know that there is a bathroom every block in the States. In Europe, I swear the bathrooms are hidden and some of them are not friendly. I started to panic as we got closer to the train station and the safety that the bathroom would provide if I could find it. Stomach is really churning now, HURRY! Into the train station and into a gift shop with 4 people in line, can't wait. I blurt out for all to hear "where is the Toilette, W/C or bathroom. I get "The Look" from the lady behind the counter but she points to the left and down the escalator. God, it hurts. No time too lose. Down the stairs and I see the sign, I run for the door and it's locked, SH--! I feel the cramp subside slightly and start to try and read what it says on the door. I swear when I get home I'm getting Rosetta Stone and am going to learn French, HURRY! I finally figure out I have to pay to get inside, SH--! .35 euros. I fumble around in my pocket and pull out a euro and insert it into the slot as the pain increases, Please don't let this happen. The coin falls out and rolls away from me, can't bend, get another coin, same thing, SH--! I then realize I need exact change, WHAT? Julie knows how I get in these situations and thinks an accident is near.She takes a euro and goes back up the escalator to the gift shop, I can't wait. A man is coming down the escalator and run UP the escalator to meet him. Parlez-vous anglais? He's still trying to figure out what the hell I'm doing running up the escalator. No time for explanations, He says "a little". I need change for a dollar, I mean a euro, He digs in his pocket and comes out with so much change I could have kissed him. I tell him I need a .20, a.10 and a .05. He hands it to me and I shove the euro in his hand and am running back to the W/C when I hear him say he has the rest of my change but I'm already fumbling to get the coins into the slot to open the door and I yell. "keep it", how nice of me. The door opens as my muscles are weakening but I make it. No need to describe the rest.
Julie has now got the change and is wondering where I am. I'm inside this little stall and I can hear her calling my name and I start laughing uncontrollably. I knew I was going to answer and wondered how it was going to look and sound to the people all around as we both talked towards the opening at the bottom of the door. As we walked to our train we laughed at my little adventure. If the results had been different................not so funny! (TMI), I know!
The shops on Rue Cler do not open until 7AM. I was up at 6 looking for coffee. The night manager at the hotel was kind enough to brew some for me. Stood in front of the hotel staring at an empty street until the manager of the La Sablaise Poissonnerie arrived to set up his fresh fish market. I greeted him and he returned the greeting, good start to the day.
We hopped on the metro and our first destination was Gare de l'Est for our high speed train ride to Strasbourg. Arrived with plenty of time to spare and bought some sandwiches for the ride. While Julie was having her coffee the train arrived on it's assigned track. We boarded and found our seats in first class, very cozy.
We have been on several high speed trains in Europe and I think the US should be ashamed of themselves because the trains in Europe are very comfortable, high speed and you can't even tell they're moving sometimes. Only when a train is going in the opposite direction do you feel the train. Our long distance trains suck in comparison. Our trains stay on the track 9 out of 10 times (Amtrak)!
The trip to Strasbourg is just over 2 hours. There were announcements of the stops and other announcements we couldn't understand. I looked at the time and realized that we were very close to arrival. NOT! Turns out we were behind schedule because of the weather? It was sunny!
We arrive in Strasbourg an hour late but who cares. Exiting the train into a beautiful station, we headed to the info booth for our map which was in a small Christmas market across the street from the station. Map in hand, we made our way into the city. We didn't buy a pass for the tram because we thought we could walk the city. Our first stop was Eglise Saint-Pierre le Jeune a Catholic church that has an organ played by Mozart from the 1500's, very cool! We kept wandering around without a plan and came across another Catholic church, Saint Thomas which was large and beautiful inside. The Children's Village was around the corner and we watched as all the kids were having the time of their life riding the miniature rides. I eyed the carousel and asked Julie if we could go on it, pretty please? Got "The Look" I'm just a kid who won't grow up. Maybe she is afraid of the horse? Came upon Place Kleber and it's giant Christmas tree. We purchased our first Vin Chaud of the day for 2 euros. Under the tree are many presents and a small village that is a pleasure to look at. Consulted the map and then thought, what the hell let's just follow the people and we ended up at Christkindelmärik Market in Place Broglie, the largest market in Strasbourg. We were delighted at the sights, sounds and smells. Another Vin Chaud. We spent over 2 hours walking around in this area and loved every minute of it. Our goal as a couple was to find Christmas ornaments to bring home. We didn't see anything special in Paris but Strasbourg had an incredible assortment of hand made and hand painted ornaments in all kinds of sizes. We purchased the ones we liked and also bought one for our friend who was watching our house back home. She is a Christmas decoration freak and will love the ornament we got for her.
The market had anything and everything you could want as far as decorations. The light was slowly fading and all the decorative lights that could be bought were dancing. We have never felt as "Christmassy" as we did while in this market. Time to eat and we had an array of goods to choose from. Decided on what they called pizza baguette but it looked like an open face Ham and Cheese sandwich that was piled high with the goods, YUMMY! We were getting tired from all the walking so we decided to rest while enjoying the rest of Stasbourg via the tram system. After sightseeing while on our butts, riding in comfort for 45 minutes we arrived back at Christkindelmärik Market. Time to move on and it's getting dark and the city is alive with lights, absolutely gorgeous!
We visited other markets but after being at the Christkindelmärik Market we found the others to pale in comparison. Don't get me wrong about this. All the markets had their own theme and each was very special. The different breads, cookies, pastries, and just all the different decorations were breathtaking. We stopped at the outdoor ice rink set up for skaters at Place du Chateau and watched both young and old fly, fall or otherwise stand around the ice.
Now it is completely dark and Strasbourg is magical! After checking out the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg which is an awesome sight both inside and out we headed back to Place Kleber to check out the giant Christmas tree all lit up. We were not disappointed. Not only was the tree glowing but the village below was alive with lights and color. I'm getting goose bumps remembering how it looked. Another Vin Chaud and I might have not listed a couple of others.
We had purchased a few items such as cookies, more cookies and finally cookies during our excursion through Strasbourg. We needed something for the train ride back.
I just realized I forgot to mention the beautiful walk along the canal and the beauty and friendliness of La Petite France. All in all it was a fantastic day trip and I will never forget the feeling we had while there. It is a magical place around Christmas. We didn't think it was that crowded at all. I've seen more people during rush hour in Chicago while walking to a train.
Back to the train station, but first, some food. We stop at Grille Courtepaille at Place de la Gare which is across the street from the train station. The waiters didn't speak very much English and we were having a hard time communicating with them, their country, our fault, so another patron came over and started to translate our questions. We ordered just a simple cheeseburger with fries for Julie and a mushroom burger and fries for me. The waiter smiled and headed back with our order. He then came back and was trying to tell us a problem when our friendly patron came to our rescue again. They didn't have any cheese, WHAT? The menu had several dishes with cheese and through our translator we asked if they could put another kind of cheese on the burger, it didn't matter what kind. Our translator said they couldn't because the burgers were pre-made, WHAT? Being tired from all the walking and Vin Chaud we gave up and Julie settled for just a hamburger. Turns out the mushroom burger I had was made with the mushrooms cooked within the bread that served as a bun. I guess they ran out of bread with cheese and they couldn't understand that they could just put a piece of cheese on the hamburger. Not the way they cook it, we were told. Strange? The burgers were good and we were happy. Back to the train station for our ride back to Paris but first, UH_OH!
I have always had a very touchy stomach and know that there is a bathroom every block in the States. In Europe, I swear the bathrooms are hidden and some of them are not friendly. I started to panic as we got closer to the train station and the safety that the bathroom would provide if I could find it. Stomach is really churning now, HURRY! Into the train station and into a gift shop with 4 people in line, can't wait. I blurt out for all to hear "where is the Toilette, W/C or bathroom. I get "The Look" from the lady behind the counter but she points to the left and down the escalator. God, it hurts. No time too lose. Down the stairs and I see the sign, I run for the door and it's locked, SH--! I feel the cramp subside slightly and start to try and read what it says on the door. I swear when I get home I'm getting Rosetta Stone and am going to learn French, HURRY! I finally figure out I have to pay to get inside, SH--! .35 euros. I fumble around in my pocket and pull out a euro and insert it into the slot as the pain increases, Please don't let this happen. The coin falls out and rolls away from me, can't bend, get another coin, same thing, SH--! I then realize I need exact change, WHAT? Julie knows how I get in these situations and thinks an accident is near.She takes a euro and goes back up the escalator to the gift shop, I can't wait. A man is coming down the escalator and run UP the escalator to meet him. Parlez-vous anglais? He's still trying to figure out what the hell I'm doing running up the escalator. No time for explanations, He says "a little". I need change for a dollar, I mean a euro, He digs in his pocket and comes out with so much change I could have kissed him. I tell him I need a .20, a.10 and a .05. He hands it to me and I shove the euro in his hand and am running back to the W/C when I hear him say he has the rest of my change but I'm already fumbling to get the coins into the slot to open the door and I yell. "keep it", how nice of me. The door opens as my muscles are weakening but I make it. No need to describe the rest.
Julie has now got the change and is wondering where I am. I'm inside this little stall and I can hear her calling my name and I start laughing uncontrollably. I knew I was going to answer and wondered how it was going to look and sound to the people all around as we both talked towards the opening at the bottom of the door. As we walked to our train we laughed at my little adventure. If the results had been different................not so funny! (TMI), I know!
Jan 7th, 2011, 05:57 AM
#23
Strasbourg is one of my favorite cities in France, and you definitely hit the essential sights -- the Place de Broglie Christmas decoration market is truly the best I have ever seen. Since I missed it this year, I have already promised myself that I will make it back there next year... only eleven months to go!
I didn't even know that Courtepaille had burgers on the menu.
I didn't even know that Courtepaille had burgers on the menu.
Jan 7th, 2011, 08:28 AM
#26
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December 22
After a much needed deep sleep I awoke around 7AM. Gathered all our dirty clothes and headed to the laundry which was conveniently around the corner. Started the washing machine, I'm a veteran at this from past experience in Europe and went to see my favorite bartender at the Cafe for some morning coffee. I realized that the same 4 guys were standing at the bar from previous days and Michael would just put what they were drinking in front of them without a word being spoken, regulars! Back to the laundry to dry and then back to the cafe to get coffee for my lovely bride. It has snowed or rained on and off since we got here but not as cloudy this morning as it has been and as I went out on the balcony, GASP! I could see the top of the Tower over the rooftops, Cool!
While running into each other moving around the room we decided to go to the Paris version of Chinatown for some Dim Sum. Another metro ride and up the stairs and out comes the GPS, don't fail me now. I hit Chine Massena and it tells me to continue heading north. We started walking and the arrow keeps facing the right way and a little flag appears telling us that the restaurant is up ahead on the right. We see it. I'm so glad I have my little toy!
The Dim Sum is excellent. They came around with the little carts with a variety of dishes that you could choose from. I knew what most of them were but there were a few mystery dishes that I ordered anyway. Haven't met a Chinese dish I didn't like. The hot sauce that was on the table is the best I have ever tasted but never asked what it was called and after stuffing our faces we headed back to the metro to go to the St. Sulpice Church and Christmas market.
I have always been fascinated with old churches and St. Sulpice was wonderful, the organ is the largest I have ever seen, cool! The market outside was small and we moved through quickly. After being in Strasbourg, it didn't strike our fancy. Time to hop on a bus since the day was cloudy but not wet yet, and see some of Paris from above. Jumped off when we saw St. Severen and stopped in for a quick visit. The churches in Europe are awesome. The architecture and how they built them with all the marble, stone, and granite with the tools they used is unbelievable. I would have loved to live in those time periods not only to watch but help. Of course, if I were helping they probably wouldn't look as good
Back on a bus and off to the Pantheon. As soon as I walked inside I was overwhelmed by it. Absolutely beautiful. Checked out the Pantheon Clock and then down the stairs to the secular mausoleum containing the remains of distinguished French citizens. We were so excited to walk around in the maze below recognizing some of the names and Julie, with her ability to read some French explaining who they were and what they did. I told her that I am an idiot. I retired at a young age (51) and read 2-3 novels a week. Mostly westerns and mystery's. What is wrong with me. I should have been reading about all I was seeing and going to see while in France. The Pantheon is our favorite museum so far in Paris.
Started walking towards St. Chapelle to check out the stained glass but first a small break at a little cafe for coffee and a coke. Can't remember the name but it was on rue de Carmes. At least the walk from here was downhill. Yes, even though I knew where the church was, I got out my toy and pushed the go button and let it lead me to where I already knew I was going just to feel better about it. Small line but we had our pass and went directly to the metal detectors for a, I guess, weapons search? We passed the test and climbed the stairs to what I had read was a breathtaking experience. NOT! It was clouding up outside and getting darker so the glass did not have the effect we expected. Timing is everything and ours was off. Still a glorious place. When in Paris next time, we will go on a sunny day.
It started to rain pretty good as we left St. Chapelle and decided to head back to the hotel for a quick nap. I'm glad we had our umbrellas. One switch on the metro and we would arrive at Rue Cler. During the switch of train lines as we were boarding the line home we had a mishap. When we saw the "How To Become A Parisian In One Hour", I mentioned that he talked about how to get on and off the metro. He said being polite gets you nowhere and you need to move into or out of the train quickly and with force if necessary. Seemed funny at the time. Julie was letting people get off (being polite) and then started to enter but the guy in the red coat suddenly moved backwards towards the door and pushed her off balance and the next thing I know she has fallen between the platform and the train, SH--! Only one leg was between, not sure if both would have fit. With a rush of adrenaline, I grabbed her jacket above each shoulder and lifted her up in the air and safely back on the platform. You read about people lifting cars with an adrenaline rush and it felt like I was only lifting 5 pounds. I felt my face flush and wanted a piece of the guy that caused this. First I had to calm Julie down because she is a full blooded Italian and she was going to go after him and teach him a lesson. She would have, no question about it. Do I really need to get in a fight while vacationing in Paris? NO. So I did what I learned from reading BuffaloGirl's trip report and STUCK MY TONGUE OUT at him. That will teach him! The look on his face was priceless. He didn't know what to do. He never looked my way again and had his girlfriend check on me once in a while to see if I was still glaring at him ready to unleash my tongue again if necessary. Before my BuffaloGirl impersonation, I did ask my wife if she was OK and she said her leg hurt. We need ice.
Arrived at our stop and headed for the hotel wondering where I could get ice. I can't even get any for my drink in a restaurant. Where do they hide it? Bingo! We go to Cafe du Marche to see my buddy Michael and explain what happened. Michael recognizes me as I enter and gives a short nod and wave. My wife told me later that she was impressed with the fact I had a friend to turn to so quickly. He gladly packs up a bag of ice and says he hopes my wife feels better. He wants no money but I leave him a large tip for being there when I needed a friend.
Once in the room, we look at her leg and it is swelling. Applying ice was the right thing and we kept it on until it was time for dinner. Julie said her leg hurt but she could walk and I promised her that if she couldn't, I would find a wheelchair and gladly push her around Paris in style.
Our goal was to find(?) and eat at Pain, Vin, Fromage because Julie loves cheese and she was hurting so it seemed like the place to go. Another metro ride and with confidence I got out the toy and punched in the restaurant. Around and around we go. The toy is almost ready to be run over by a car because I am going to put it there. I don't get it. I see the Curieux Spaghetti Bar that I had listed as a place to go for happy hour. I was not happy but stopped in for directions. They pointed this way and that and we started down a long street with the rain picking up and frustration took over. I need a drink. Stopped in a small bistro, don't know the name, and had a wonderful glass of red wine. I am feeling better already. We finally find the restaurant and are very happy to enter, not for long. There are 2 people sitting in the restaurant but we don't have a reservation so he says he can seat us at 10:30PM, WHAT? There's nobody here, SH--! Our plan was to get there at 7 when they opened but because my GPS and me are directionally dysfunctional we arrived at 7:45, not good.
We stopped at another place and had another glass of wine while I looked at my list to see what else was in the 4th. Decided on La Jacobine, out comes the GPS, Oh, God help me!
It takes us almost right there after a small glitch where I passed up a small alley again. I can smell the restaurant before we even get in the door, good sign. Not very busy, we get a table right away. Julie says her leg is OK but she is glad to be off it. Order a bottle of wine, we need it. Julie started with a baked cheese and ravioli dish that was incredible and followed it with a Filet Mignon of Pork sliced with a blue cheese sauce. Most excellent. I started with Escargot in a garlic sauce and even got Julie to try one. She said it was good as her face was contorting at the thought of what she was eating. I followed it up with a duck breast sliced in a black currant sauce that was beyond good.
We decided to go to Cafe Laurent which was around the corner for a nightcap and some Jazz. Walked in and a guy was playing an acoustic guitar and singing a love song, this is not Jazz. I guess we were to early or there on a wrong day but didn't care, he was OK. I had a glass of wine and Julie had a Bailey's and coffee. Never looked at a menu, just ordered and decided one was enough. I received the bill and Julie's drink was 18.50 euros, WHAT? I could buy a can of coffee and a bottle of Bailey's for that price, no matter. Paid, left and headed home. On the metro I was having a good time laughing at life but Julie's leg hurt and we were both tired so "The Look" said to stop the shenanigans.
Au revoir!
After a much needed deep sleep I awoke around 7AM. Gathered all our dirty clothes and headed to the laundry which was conveniently around the corner. Started the washing machine, I'm a veteran at this from past experience in Europe and went to see my favorite bartender at the Cafe for some morning coffee. I realized that the same 4 guys were standing at the bar from previous days and Michael would just put what they were drinking in front of them without a word being spoken, regulars! Back to the laundry to dry and then back to the cafe to get coffee for my lovely bride. It has snowed or rained on and off since we got here but not as cloudy this morning as it has been and as I went out on the balcony, GASP! I could see the top of the Tower over the rooftops, Cool!
While running into each other moving around the room we decided to go to the Paris version of Chinatown for some Dim Sum. Another metro ride and up the stairs and out comes the GPS, don't fail me now. I hit Chine Massena and it tells me to continue heading north. We started walking and the arrow keeps facing the right way and a little flag appears telling us that the restaurant is up ahead on the right. We see it. I'm so glad I have my little toy!
The Dim Sum is excellent. They came around with the little carts with a variety of dishes that you could choose from. I knew what most of them were but there were a few mystery dishes that I ordered anyway. Haven't met a Chinese dish I didn't like. The hot sauce that was on the table is the best I have ever tasted but never asked what it was called and after stuffing our faces we headed back to the metro to go to the St. Sulpice Church and Christmas market.
I have always been fascinated with old churches and St. Sulpice was wonderful, the organ is the largest I have ever seen, cool! The market outside was small and we moved through quickly. After being in Strasbourg, it didn't strike our fancy. Time to hop on a bus since the day was cloudy but not wet yet, and see some of Paris from above. Jumped off when we saw St. Severen and stopped in for a quick visit. The churches in Europe are awesome. The architecture and how they built them with all the marble, stone, and granite with the tools they used is unbelievable. I would have loved to live in those time periods not only to watch but help. Of course, if I were helping they probably wouldn't look as good
Back on a bus and off to the Pantheon. As soon as I walked inside I was overwhelmed by it. Absolutely beautiful. Checked out the Pantheon Clock and then down the stairs to the secular mausoleum containing the remains of distinguished French citizens. We were so excited to walk around in the maze below recognizing some of the names and Julie, with her ability to read some French explaining who they were and what they did. I told her that I am an idiot. I retired at a young age (51) and read 2-3 novels a week. Mostly westerns and mystery's. What is wrong with me. I should have been reading about all I was seeing and going to see while in France. The Pantheon is our favorite museum so far in Paris.
Started walking towards St. Chapelle to check out the stained glass but first a small break at a little cafe for coffee and a coke. Can't remember the name but it was on rue de Carmes. At least the walk from here was downhill. Yes, even though I knew where the church was, I got out my toy and pushed the go button and let it lead me to where I already knew I was going just to feel better about it. Small line but we had our pass and went directly to the metal detectors for a, I guess, weapons search? We passed the test and climbed the stairs to what I had read was a breathtaking experience. NOT! It was clouding up outside and getting darker so the glass did not have the effect we expected. Timing is everything and ours was off. Still a glorious place. When in Paris next time, we will go on a sunny day.
It started to rain pretty good as we left St. Chapelle and decided to head back to the hotel for a quick nap. I'm glad we had our umbrellas. One switch on the metro and we would arrive at Rue Cler. During the switch of train lines as we were boarding the line home we had a mishap. When we saw the "How To Become A Parisian In One Hour", I mentioned that he talked about how to get on and off the metro. He said being polite gets you nowhere and you need to move into or out of the train quickly and with force if necessary. Seemed funny at the time. Julie was letting people get off (being polite) and then started to enter but the guy in the red coat suddenly moved backwards towards the door and pushed her off balance and the next thing I know she has fallen between the platform and the train, SH--! Only one leg was between, not sure if both would have fit. With a rush of adrenaline, I grabbed her jacket above each shoulder and lifted her up in the air and safely back on the platform. You read about people lifting cars with an adrenaline rush and it felt like I was only lifting 5 pounds. I felt my face flush and wanted a piece of the guy that caused this. First I had to calm Julie down because she is a full blooded Italian and she was going to go after him and teach him a lesson. She would have, no question about it. Do I really need to get in a fight while vacationing in Paris? NO. So I did what I learned from reading BuffaloGirl's trip report and STUCK MY TONGUE OUT at him. That will teach him! The look on his face was priceless. He didn't know what to do. He never looked my way again and had his girlfriend check on me once in a while to see if I was still glaring at him ready to unleash my tongue again if necessary. Before my BuffaloGirl impersonation, I did ask my wife if she was OK and she said her leg hurt. We need ice.
Arrived at our stop and headed for the hotel wondering where I could get ice. I can't even get any for my drink in a restaurant. Where do they hide it? Bingo! We go to Cafe du Marche to see my buddy Michael and explain what happened. Michael recognizes me as I enter and gives a short nod and wave. My wife told me later that she was impressed with the fact I had a friend to turn to so quickly. He gladly packs up a bag of ice and says he hopes my wife feels better. He wants no money but I leave him a large tip for being there when I needed a friend.
Once in the room, we look at her leg and it is swelling. Applying ice was the right thing and we kept it on until it was time for dinner. Julie said her leg hurt but she could walk and I promised her that if she couldn't, I would find a wheelchair and gladly push her around Paris in style.
Our goal was to find(?) and eat at Pain, Vin, Fromage because Julie loves cheese and she was hurting so it seemed like the place to go. Another metro ride and with confidence I got out the toy and punched in the restaurant. Around and around we go. The toy is almost ready to be run over by a car because I am going to put it there. I don't get it. I see the Curieux Spaghetti Bar that I had listed as a place to go for happy hour. I was not happy but stopped in for directions. They pointed this way and that and we started down a long street with the rain picking up and frustration took over. I need a drink. Stopped in a small bistro, don't know the name, and had a wonderful glass of red wine. I am feeling better already. We finally find the restaurant and are very happy to enter, not for long. There are 2 people sitting in the restaurant but we don't have a reservation so he says he can seat us at 10:30PM, WHAT? There's nobody here, SH--! Our plan was to get there at 7 when they opened but because my GPS and me are directionally dysfunctional we arrived at 7:45, not good.
We stopped at another place and had another glass of wine while I looked at my list to see what else was in the 4th. Decided on La Jacobine, out comes the GPS, Oh, God help me!
It takes us almost right there after a small glitch where I passed up a small alley again. I can smell the restaurant before we even get in the door, good sign. Not very busy, we get a table right away. Julie says her leg is OK but she is glad to be off it. Order a bottle of wine, we need it. Julie started with a baked cheese and ravioli dish that was incredible and followed it with a Filet Mignon of Pork sliced with a blue cheese sauce. Most excellent. I started with Escargot in a garlic sauce and even got Julie to try one. She said it was good as her face was contorting at the thought of what she was eating. I followed it up with a duck breast sliced in a black currant sauce that was beyond good.
We decided to go to Cafe Laurent which was around the corner for a nightcap and some Jazz. Walked in and a guy was playing an acoustic guitar and singing a love song, this is not Jazz. I guess we were to early or there on a wrong day but didn't care, he was OK. I had a glass of wine and Julie had a Bailey's and coffee. Never looked at a menu, just ordered and decided one was enough. I received the bill and Julie's drink was 18.50 euros, WHAT? I could buy a can of coffee and a bottle of Bailey's for that price, no matter. Paid, left and headed home. On the metro I was having a good time laughing at life but Julie's leg hurt and we were both tired so "The Look" said to stop the shenanigans.
Au revoir!
Jan 7th, 2011, 08:47 AM
#27
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Scary metro story! I'm glad Julie was OK.
I've been enjoying your report and enthusiasm, Travelbound. I went to Strasbourg for a few days (with a day trip in Colmar) about ten years ago. What a lovely place with lovely people, too.
Did you buy tickets to the one-man show in advance?
I've been enjoying your report and enthusiasm, Travelbound. I went to Strasbourg for a few days (with a day trip in Colmar) about ten years ago. What a lovely place with lovely people, too.
Did you buy tickets to the one-man show in advance?
Jan 7th, 2011, 09:13 AM
#28
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Yes, we did it online and just printed the tickets. Small theater and not a bad seat in the house. No reserved seats
http://www.billetreduc.com/lieu/pari...-la-main-d-or/
Hope this helps.
http://www.billetreduc.com/lieu/pari...-la-main-d-or/
Hope this helps.
Jan 7th, 2011, 10:14 AM
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December 23. Moving day.
Checked out of the Grand Hotel Leveque and our shoebox room and took the metro to our new home in the Latin Quarter, Hotel St. Jacques. We have stayed here twice before on our previous trips and love the hotel and the neighborhood. Could not check in right away so we put our bags in storage and went to the Museum D'orsay. Snowing again. I like the Paris museum pass because we go right past the lines and in. What a beautiful place. We really enjoyed this museum with all it's sculptures and marble and paintings. Very elegant. It's hard to imagine how they did the sculptures, I have a hard time carving a pumpkin! We spent around 2 hours just roaming around.
Walked along The Seine near St. Germain in the snow which is starting to turn into rain so we hit the first metro we saw and went underground to the Cite stop. Up the stairs and exited a very cool metro entrance. Walked past Notre Dame and we went to the restaurant Mon Vieil Ami on L'ile St. Louis for lunch. Julie had the scallops with artichoke mousse which turned out to be her favorite meal in Paris. I had the Cod served over cooked endive with an orange sauce. It was so good that it made my tummy tickle
Walked through the Latin Quarter to St. Jacques and our room is ready! Even though the room is not large, it felt like a conference room after our previous one. I wear a pedometer and we have walked 67 miles since we arrived in Paris, we are taking a nap.
2 1/2 hours later
Decided to watch a little TV and chill until dinner. CNN and BBC were all we could understand so we heard about the world's problems. Heard that CDG had to evacuate a terminal because of snow on the roof, What? I don't even see an inch of snow on the ground, Oh well, Time to check out some French cartoons, Very Funny!
Tonight we were going to a wonderful restaurant we discovered in the 5th on our last visit while what else, walking around. Le Petit Prince de Paris is located on rue de Lanneau which is off rue de Carmes going towards the Pantheon and make a right at the Zig and Zag Bistro onto Lanneau, can't miss it. It's a lovely street to walk down.I had a duck dinner here last year that I still talk about. For 26 euros it was a gizzard salad, different types of pate with several sauces, a duck leg and smoked breast. I believe there was some foie gras also. One of the best meals I had in Paris. They didn't open until 7:30 so we stopped into Zig and Zag for a drink. For dinner Julie started with Bowtie Pasta sautéed with prawns, cashews, and shichimi (seven Oriental spices) and finished with Duck Magret with pomegranate. Wonderful. I had the same dish as last time with a twist, still outstanding. We had room for dessert and had Crème Brûlée and Carambar. They lit it up before serving and we devoured it. How could I have been in Paris 3 times and not have tried this before, Stupid! Back to Zig and Zag for a nightcap and then under the covers we go........
Au revoir!
Checked out of the Grand Hotel Leveque and our shoebox room and took the metro to our new home in the Latin Quarter, Hotel St. Jacques. We have stayed here twice before on our previous trips and love the hotel and the neighborhood. Could not check in right away so we put our bags in storage and went to the Museum D'orsay. Snowing again. I like the Paris museum pass because we go right past the lines and in. What a beautiful place. We really enjoyed this museum with all it's sculptures and marble and paintings. Very elegant. It's hard to imagine how they did the sculptures, I have a hard time carving a pumpkin! We spent around 2 hours just roaming around.
Walked along The Seine near St. Germain in the snow which is starting to turn into rain so we hit the first metro we saw and went underground to the Cite stop. Up the stairs and exited a very cool metro entrance. Walked past Notre Dame and we went to the restaurant Mon Vieil Ami on L'ile St. Louis for lunch. Julie had the scallops with artichoke mousse which turned out to be her favorite meal in Paris. I had the Cod served over cooked endive with an orange sauce. It was so good that it made my tummy tickle
Walked through the Latin Quarter to St. Jacques and our room is ready! Even though the room is not large, it felt like a conference room after our previous one. I wear a pedometer and we have walked 67 miles since we arrived in Paris, we are taking a nap.
2 1/2 hours later
Decided to watch a little TV and chill until dinner. CNN and BBC were all we could understand so we heard about the world's problems. Heard that CDG had to evacuate a terminal because of snow on the roof, What? I don't even see an inch of snow on the ground, Oh well, Time to check out some French cartoons, Very Funny!
Tonight we were going to a wonderful restaurant we discovered in the 5th on our last visit while what else, walking around. Le Petit Prince de Paris is located on rue de Lanneau which is off rue de Carmes going towards the Pantheon and make a right at the Zig and Zag Bistro onto Lanneau, can't miss it. It's a lovely street to walk down.I had a duck dinner here last year that I still talk about. For 26 euros it was a gizzard salad, different types of pate with several sauces, a duck leg and smoked breast. I believe there was some foie gras also. One of the best meals I had in Paris. They didn't open until 7:30 so we stopped into Zig and Zag for a drink. For dinner Julie started with Bowtie Pasta sautéed with prawns, cashews, and shichimi (seven Oriental spices) and finished with Duck Magret with pomegranate. Wonderful. I had the same dish as last time with a twist, still outstanding. We had room for dessert and had Crème Brûlée and Carambar. They lit it up before serving and we devoured it. How could I have been in Paris 3 times and not have tried this before, Stupid! Back to Zig and Zag for a nightcap and then under the covers we go........
Au revoir!
Jan 7th, 2011, 10:23 AM
#32
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In regards to the GPS, I bought it thinking after getting off a bus or metro it would make it easier to find the Restaurants, NOT! Always asked for directions before but I have it and was determined to learn how to use it. The problem is that the street signs are on the buildings and at night they aren't lit up so we can't see them. I have more about the GPS to come but I will not bring it again.
The best gadget I brought was a digital recorder so I could remember what we did and when. I wish I could play it for all because listening to me trying to say French words is hysterical. It is a beautiful language but I get tongue tied.
My wife speaks some French and I always react like Gomez Adams
The best gadget I brought was a digital recorder so I could remember what we did and when. I wish I could play it for all because listening to me trying to say French words is hysterical. It is a beautiful language but I get tongue tied.
My wife speaks some French and I always react like Gomez Adams
Jan 7th, 2011, 11:14 AM
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I'm surprised your wife hasn't dashed your GPS herself! Your wife must be very, very patient
Continue to enjoy your report and sympathize with you on pronunciation...but my problem is German, not French. I just feel like I'm spitting and hacking, on top of being tongue tied.
Continue to enjoy your report and sympathize with you on pronunciation...but my problem is German, not French. I just feel like I'm spitting and hacking, on top of being tongue tied.
Jan 7th, 2011, 01:27 PM
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didn't use GPS in Paris and although we both have college degrees and had a map, agreed on which way we should go, we still ended up going the wrong way a few times! One kind woman voluntarily asked if she could help us and we told her where we wanted to go and she looked at our map and even she was turned around and said something about "I'm so stupid", so hey, you just have to go with it. GPS pisses me off at home enough, would never take "Grethcen Garmin" on vaca with me!
Jan 7th, 2011, 01:44 PM
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Wish it were my idea but one Fodorite (Bob? Ira?) bought a compass. Coming out of the metro, one doesn't always know whether to go port or starboard and it really helps!
Am enjoying your report. It sounds like the tongue "lashing" may become a Fodor specialty for showing displeasure! Glad your DW is ok.
Am enjoying your report. It sounds like the tongue "lashing" may become a Fodor specialty for showing displeasure! Glad your DW is ok.
Jan 7th, 2011, 01:59 PM
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After reading the reviews on the one I bought, it said one of the problems was that the time of arrival area blocked the compass that is built in. I made the same comment to my wife about getting a compass. I have 4 of them at home but none in Paris. It's a glitch with the GPS and I have no clue how to change it, remember, I am electronically challenged!
Denisea, I laughed hard at your response about "Gretchen Garmin" You can imagine how I felt while going in circles in Paris. Mine is a Garmin
Denisea, I laughed hard at your response about "Gretchen Garmin" You can imagine how I felt while going in circles in Paris. Mine is a Garmin
Jan 7th, 2011, 02:18 PM
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I always get, shall we say "irregular" when we travel. Hubby convinced me to take more than the prescribed doseage of laxitive one year. It hit as we were having a stroll through the Tuilleries. I had to run into the Louvre shopping center only to find I needed to pay the guys working there and I had left hubby who had all of our money out in the park. Not so funny at the time.I just ran into one of the stalls as this big guy was yelling at me. I thought he would drag me out of there. When I finally did come out, DH was there to pay my toll.
Strasbourg has long been on my bucket list. I'm happy you had such a wonderful time there.
Thanks for sharing you trip with us.
Strasbourg has long been on my bucket list. I'm happy you had such a wonderful time there.
Thanks for sharing you trip with us.
Jan 7th, 2011, 11:58 PM
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TB44: Bring on the conclusion. Love your enthousiasm.
Re Garmin: Not to Garmin bash, because our model is an extremely old one, but she earned the name "B**** Betty" for her tortuous mis-meanderings through the S.W. France countryside that was the final proverbial straw.
We promptly went out and bought me a Navigon, "Hansi"; my husband kept "Betty". My son thinks we are crazy as we each like our own for different reasons, and on a trip have been known to have both of them operating at the same time!
Re Garmin: Not to Garmin bash, because our model is an extremely old one, but she earned the name "B**** Betty" for her tortuous mis-meanderings through the S.W. France countryside that was the final proverbial straw.
We promptly went out and bought me a Navigon, "Hansi"; my husband kept "Betty". My son thinks we are crazy as we each like our own for different reasons, and on a trip have been known to have both of them operating at the same time!
Jan 8th, 2011, 01:54 AM
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travelbound, many years ago when I was in my 20's I fell between a train and the platform here in Sydney. My shoe slipped as I went to board and down I went. Fortunately it was in the days of the 'red rattlers' that didn't have automatically closing doors and the commuters were able to catch me and stopped me from falling all the way. It's a much longer distance here than in Paris and I'm sure I would have been badly hurt if I'd fallen all the way as it was I had a really nasty gash on my shin. Anyway, a few days later I realised my upper arms were covered in tiny bruises from where people had grabbed hold of my arms.
So, my commiserations to your wife, it is a very frightening experience and good on you for catching her.
I'm thoroughly enjoying your report! I'm sure my husband sometimes gets 'the look' when he is acting the fool and driving me a bit nuts.
So, my commiserations to your wife, it is a very frightening experience and good on you for catching her.
I'm thoroughly enjoying your report! I'm sure my husband sometimes gets 'the look' when he is acting the fool and driving me a bit nuts.
