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Building smaller details late Nov. Andalucia trip--some specific questions

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Building smaller details late Nov. Andalucia trip--some specific questions

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Old Nov 8th, 2023 | 04:24 AM
  #41  
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Glad you're set! Have fun with the rest of your planning!!
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Old Nov 8th, 2023 | 04:37 AM
  #42  
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Thank you—having fun indeed w/planning.
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Old Nov 11th, 2023 | 08:07 AM
  #43  
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OK..you are now veering into my nutty territory with the packing thing.

Where do you live?

NYC...??? Then write down clothing that you wore last week at home. Take that same type of clothing on your trip.
Please do not go my way, which is the crazy, obsessive way.......I am not leaving until March and am already fretting about what to bring (I have to go to Florida from NYC and from MIA to MAD....). Remember the names :COS. ZARA.

I'm on your side....not criticizing....I know another one when I see him/her!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Nov 11th, 2023 | 10:51 AM
  #44  
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So true about the common territory when it comes to packing. I tend to do better at it when I pack well in advance. I find that when I do it at the last minute that I take too much stuff that I never end up wearing. And I do love Cos in particular, so a very good point. And the idea of what you wear all the time and always feel good in (rather than the aspirational pieces in your closet that never feel "right") is a very useful rule of thumb-thanks for sharing. I can see that packing logistics are complicated for you by the fact that you are essentially deciding now what key things to take from NY to Miami and then to Spain. That sounds hard.

I have tonight, all day tomorrow, and much of Tuesday set aside for packing and making restaurant bookings (re the latter--still reviewing TRs, threads, HO, taking notes, looking at menus--have made only one reservation so far for Noor, which I might or might not keep--appreciated Maribel's pointing to a recent HO thread post, along with reviews in other publications she flagged in your thread). I leave Sunday afternoon. But the rest of the week will be busy (as the last several weeks have, more than I had anticipated), and so by Tuesday night I intend to be packed with just last minute things added on Saturday and no doubt some things to swap out depending on the final weather forecast.

(And, as for me, originally from NYC, now living in Denver.)
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Old Nov 11th, 2023 | 11:11 AM
  #45  
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I really think the HO recent review of Noor was a bit too harsh. I feel that the poster didn't do his/her research regarding the type of experience it is this year so his/her expectations fell short.

When spending that much money on a tasting menu at a Michelin star (in this case a 2 Michelin star and the only one in the province), I try to do due diligence so that I know what I'm getting into in so as to avoid disappointment. I read all the reviews I can find just to find balance. But I'm an over planner, a Virgo to the max.

It's interesting that a recent food critic whom I respect declared Bardal in Ronda "one of the best restaurants in Spain" after a recent meal, while that particular HO poster said that it was a disappointment. It's just so interesting how dining experiences differ from person to person. It's so incredibly subjective.
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Old Nov 11th, 2023 | 11:37 AM
  #46  
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Thanks Maribel-I've had exactly that sense when reading restaurant comments by diners. I take them with a huge grain of salt, and mostly when my experience has not aligned with those of casual diners it has been in the other direction (i.e., people who IMHO confuse fancy, overproduced, overpriced food in "buzzy restaurants" for really well prepared food). I thought the review of Noor that you shared in an EKS thread from Forbes and in Gastroactitud were really wonderful, thoughtful, and influenced me a lot. I only left Noor as a' maybe we'll cancel it' (more than 72 hours in advance) if we feel tired of very large meals at that point in our trip (sometimes that happens, but I haven't finished my short list of restaurants in several locations yet) and/or depending on our meal at the chef's more casual restaurant. But more likely than not we will dine at Noor as I had designated it as a prime candidate for one of what I see as most memorable meals. I'm not a Virgo, but I am an obsessive. And so, like you feel that due diligence is an always thing. Thanks so much for weighing in--your views matter to me a great deal. (I also appreciated your explanation of the chef's philosophy in your exchange with Eks and the Forbes writing was really interesting along those lines, too.
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Old Nov 11th, 2023 | 11:57 AM
  #47  
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PS Maribel-based on your suggestion to Eks I did ask the Hospes staff to make the booking for me. They've been so lovely. Thank you!
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Old Nov 12th, 2023 | 04:38 AM
  #48  
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Oh I am loving this thread. And agree that packing last minute-ish is the way to go, to avoid taking all the extra stuff you will not wear.

I feel the same about NOOr..will try to book when tables open up for March but will not be in a tizzy is I cannot do it for some reason....

One semi-related issue: Jewelry whether real (which I would not take) or costume or whatever name you want to give it..is heavy.....good way to cut down on the heaviness of the luggage....

I go to Spain, usually, alone. So I realize, after years and years, WHO is going to judge me if I wear the same pants every day?? Or the same sweater????? NO ONE!!!!!!!!! Does Bruce at my hotel care one whit about what I am wearing? Of course not!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm writing this now with the hope I can follow my own advice: Black jeans, nice denim jeans, and a few "nice" tops. And Cos is always waiting, as is Zara, in Madrid, in the extremely unlikely event that I "forget" something." AND, I bought a white rain jacket for about $10 at Costco and am bringing that....!

Are Scorpios known for obsessiveness???
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Old Nov 12th, 2023 | 05:10 PM
  #49  
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I am loving this thread, too! Great point on jewelry. I tend to bring very little in general when I travel on a multi-base trip and only things that I wouldn't mind losing.But it's a great reminder since things sometimes creep into my luggage the night before a trip. And you say it so well about the need to "get over" wearing the same thing a lot on a trip. The reminder is timely as I'm starting to build my packing list--thanks! Your vision of what to bring seems spot on. I'm really going to try to be good on this trip since we are moving 5 times. Most of my trips are hub and spoke, so it's more important on this one that I don't overpack. And like you I frequently travel alone, though not on this trip.
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Old Nov 12th, 2023 | 05:22 PM
  #50  
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PS I forgot to mention re Noor--the staff at Hospes wrote me a very apologetic email today saying that after all they couldn't make the reservation for me bec a reservation at Noor requires credit card and other personal information, which they were not allowed to share on my behalf. No bother to me at all since the restaurant website is easy to navigate. I'm going to book there to keep Noor as an option. So many enticing restaurants in that city! I will cancel well in advance (IF need be) to avoid a cancellation penalty and out of consideration for the restaurant ownership.
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Old Nov 13th, 2023 | 12:09 AM
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studenttobe,
I should have remembered that! Many of the Michelin-starred restaurants have now required a credit card to secure a reservation due to the number of No Shows they were experiencing. If cancelled in advance (the cancellation period varies from restaurant to restaurant) there is no penalty.

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Old Nov 13th, 2023 | 03:12 AM
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As a fellow Scorpio, I admit to a certain level of obsessive-ness when it comes to research, planning, reserving and packing……..

in NYC a right now, as my husband just had surgery here, and I packed based partly on the outfits I wore on repeating Spain last month, plus a couple of sweaters. Just two pairs of shoes, very minimal accessories (one scarf, a couple of pairs of earrings, one belt) one long puffer vest w/hood ( thank you, Bernardo @ Nordstrom) and my knee length packable puffer. Not sure how long I’ll be here, could be 5 to 7 nights total, but I definitely have enough options for pretty much any weather or situation.

Packing was very last minute, though I had planned ahead to make sure all of my favorite clothes would be clean, and I am going to try to carry this approach forward to our next trip.
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Old Nov 13th, 2023 | 04:42 AM
  #53  
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Maribel, Completely understood and makes perfect sense. I made my reservation easily on the restaurant’s website. The restuarant industry at all levels is still recovering from covid, and no shows and last minute cancellations are such a problem (even when it comes to events like weddings and dinner parties—speaking from personal experience here).

BTW to EKS and others who might stay at Hospes in Cordoba—depending on what type of room you reserve (we reserved a junior suite) there is the opportunity to enjoy free one hour daily access to the Roman baths. You can reserve your preferred time in advance, which I’ve now done.
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Old Nov 13th, 2023 | 04:44 AM
  #54  
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Adlmllr, I hear you on obsessiveness, despite being a different sign. I am wishing you and your husband all the best on his surgery and recovery. So generous of you to write about your packing at this challenging time. I’ve noted carefully your suggestions and I thank you for them.
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Old Nov 13th, 2023 | 10:00 AM
  #55  
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Hi Maribel and others here, Wondering if anyone has been to Espacio Eslava in Seville recently? I saw Maribel's comments in another thread about new owners (and possibly some sense from a "spy" that it might not be as fantastic as it has long been, but with judgement reserved until she can try it herself) and Shawn's website also reserves judgement (as of her March 2023 post). I'd welcome any updated sense of the quality these days. I've been collecting what seems like a million wonderful recommendations on eating in Seville from TRs, threads, and over in HO. Just wondering if I should use one of my precious meals at Espacio Eslava--the food as described by various folks here and in HO sounds marvelous!

Also, wondering if Atarazanas market in Malaga is worth a stroll and a bite for lunch on Monday? I understand from various discussions in this forum that the fish vendors are not there on Monday. I will be able to visit markets in other cities (a passion of mine) and have been fortunate to visit previously marvelous fish markets in Spain and Italy. As I have just one full day in Malaga (and the previous evening), I am budgeting my time carefully (have several musts, mostly a walking intensive day as a way of stretching out after a transatlantic flight and enjoying the main sites, views and atmosphere. Thanks for any thoughts.
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Old Nov 13th, 2023 | 10:29 AM
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I'm not paying so much attention to my spy (I think you know who she is-- she was there as I was on don Sixto Tovar's last day, and I think she missed him very much, as he's a good friend). I did read a tweet just yesterday by Alberto Granados of Gastroplanet who loved his recent meal there. If you go please save room for dessert, their famous "helado de queso viejo". How can you mess that up? But you may have many others on your gastro list that don't require such a longish walk from your hotel. There are wonderful tapas bars now all over Sevilla.

Here are the current ones (I did the research so that you don't have to ) that Shawn gives her coveted 5 oranges to, according to neighborhood. I've been to some but not all. Yes, I'm an obsessive Virgo planner when it comes to my dining! * means a personal favorite.

In Alfalfa:
*Salmedina (near Casa de Pilatos), *Tradevo Centro
In Centro:
Almansa, *La Barra de Cañabota, Taberna Manolo Manteca, Zelai, Barra Baja
In El Arenal:
*Bodeguita Romero, Casa Moreno, La Brunilda (lots of tourists, must stand in line), *Casa Morales (a wonderful time warp),
* Petit Comité (never fails me), *La Barra de Inchausti (for great seafood), Porta Rossa (Italian)
In Macarena:
ConTenedor (for vegetarians)
In Museo:
*Casapuerta (for almadraba caught tuna from Barbate, Costa de la Luz)
In San Lorenzo:
*La Azotea (an ekscrunchy fav too) & Eslava (before the ownership change)
In Santa Catalina:
*Becerrita (well worth the walk!)
In Santa Cruz:
Vinería San Telmo, La Azotea, *Las Teresas (for a great breakfast sandwich), *Casa Román (for the best Iberian ham), L’Oca Giuliva (Italian cuisine)
In Triana:
*Las Golondrinas II, *Pura Tasca (but it's a slog from most hotels)

The trouble with Eslava is that you do need reservations to secure a table. I went twice because I was staying upstairs, both times w/o reservations but once got there early before they opened and stood in line and was able to snag a counter stool at the bar (the day Sr. Tovar retired) and another time later in the evening sitting out on the terrace.

Yes, I love strolling through the Atarazanas market but on Monday the fishmongers' section will be empty, so you don't get to see all the wonderful specimens that they bring in. Fishermen don't go out on Sundays. But the food stand at the very front of the market gets super busy at all times, and for lunch all the outside tables were taken. It's very popular. I would go nonetheless, unless you have other more interesting items on your agenda, which you may have. I had a snack standing at the Central Bar.

A thought....if you do skip the Atarazanas market on Monday, go instead to the Mercado de Triana in Sevilla. Lots of good and very inexpensive noshing there.
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Old Nov 14th, 2023 | 09:02 PM
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You have probably settled on your transportation by now. I don't know if this will interest you, but I just returned from Spain yesterday and I happened to notice while there tv news reports of a nationwide railway strike on five days at the end of Nov. and beginning of Dec. https://murciatoday.com/train_strike...2280063-a.html
If you think this might affect your trip, please check on the most recent news of this strike.

You asked about Eslava in Seville. I had lunch there about a week ago. The last time was 8 years ago. Since then I've been dreaming of their "Yema Sobre Bizcocho", so I had to go back. I, too, thought of staying upstairs from the restaurant so I could eat there every day. In addition, I like the surrounding neighborhood of San Lorenzo. I wasn't aware of the change of management until I'd read this post. However, the "Yema Sobre Bizcocho" did taste different to me. The reduction wasn't as rich and flavorful and was a bit too sweet and the "bizcocho" tasted different to me as well, not as redolent of boletus mushroom and it was somewhat crumbly, but I still enjoyed it. The changes could have been down to a different chef for that particular lunch time service. Azotea is nearby, which I also ate at last time. I ate at Azotea in Barrio Santa Cruz.this time. They seem to have the same menu, as I also went by the one in San Lorenzo and looked at their menu. Last time I also ate at La Brunilda, which was great, but read it was "temporarily closed", so I didn't even try to eat there this time. But I just looked it up and it seems it had been opened.

I agree, there is no shortage of good tapas bars in Seville.

I brought a very small suitcase with three pairs of shoes:running shoes, espadrilles, and a pair of short-heeled black leather boots. I wore my Asic running shoes the entire time because I did so much walking. It's better to be comfortable and no one seemed to notice my feet.
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Old Nov 14th, 2023 | 11:26 PM
  #58  
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Market in Malaga.forgive errors as I am up at 3amEST: Raisins and the Moroccan B'stilla bread.....the latter is a must....unless you go to Morocco!!! Buy and freeze! Gorgeous market.
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Old Nov 15th, 2023 | 12:56 AM
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Diamantina,
Good to know about your recent meal at Eslava. One of my favorite dishes there is the one you describe, yema de huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus edulis y trufa. And the helado de queso viejo is made with manchego and served with a membrillo compota.

La Brunilda is definitely open.
Shawn's review, updated this past August
https://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/la-brunilda/

Last edited by Maribel; Nov 15th, 2023 at 01:02 AM.
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Old Nov 15th, 2023 | 03:48 AM
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We were disappointed that we couldn't have our lunch as planned at Eslava -- it was for a Friday afternoon at 1:00 and when we arrived, we were told there was a "big problem". There had been very heavy rains the evening before, and apparently there was a back-up in their sewer/plumbing system. As we were waiting outside, the repair truck arrived and they started working on it, but there was no estimate of how long it would take. At around 1:30, with no progress on the horizon, we decided to cancel and leave.....the 1:30 reservations were already there waiting as well. Sadly, there were no openings for lunch or dinner on Saturday so we'll just have to wait until next time.
We strolled back towards centro, passing Azotea but no on was seated inside or out, and it felt a little sad to us. On we went, headed toward anything we could find, when we passed by Canabota and La Barra. We were able to get a seat at one of the hightop outside tables at La Barra, and proceeded to have a most wonderful (and crazy $$) lunch. Our server was terrific and the quality of the seafood was excellent. Some manzanilla, some Basque white wine, delectable food, digestif.......not a bad way to spend an afternoon! And our lunch actually carried us through dinnertime as well.
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