Bordeaux & Dordogne Food & Drink
Jun 3rd, 2019, 01:39 PM
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Bordeaux & Dordogne Food & Drink
We are heading to Bordeaux soon and I was wondering if any of you had any restaurant recommendations. We don't eat much seafood but apart from that we're pretty open. Will be without a car in Bordeaux (4-5 days) and then we'll be driving up to Cognac and then to Sarlat (Dordogne) so we'll have a car there. The perfect place is laid back with good service and food.
Jun 3rd, 2019, 03:34 PM
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We have spent a month in Bordeaux in the past couple of years and to be honest we have found the best way to find good places to eat is to just walk around and then check against tripadvisor or yelp or even some of the French food sites like "lefooding". Since it is close to Spain there are a number of good Spanish places for tapas and jamon which are yummy.
https://lefooding.com/en/restaurant-bordeaux
In the Dordogne you will be spoiled for choice. We of course love to eat duck and fois gras there.
Here are some that I have tried and also include some that my French niece loves:
In Bergerac: l’imparfait
Nos Menus ? Restaurant L?Imparfait ? Bergerac
In Domme: Cabanoix et Châtaigne
https://www.restaurantcabanoix.com/
In Sarlat: La Cremerie (casual for lunch focused on cheeses)
In Sarlat: Le Presidial (for its lovely garden dining)
In Sarlat: les jardins d’harmonie
https://www.lacremerie-sarlat.com/?u...edium=referral
Restaurant in Sarlat | Les Jardins d'Harmonie
Restaurant - Le Présidial - Le restaurant
In La Roque-Gageac, on of our favorites of the trip was O Plaisir Des Sens. It is not right on the "tourist strip" along the river but on the road going in. The garden is lovely and they have a lovely patio garden dining area. They also have a more formal "gastronomique" part of the restaurant and a more casual bistro side (both open for lunch and dinner I think-but maybe only the more fine dining part at night, I can't remember) But even in the fine dining area, it is kind of like California-you can come pretty casual without it feeling too stuffy. And we also bought a lovely cookbook that the chef and his wife created last year showcasing many recipes from local chefs around the Dordogne area-it was a nice souvenir.
https://o-plaisirdessens.com/?utm_so...edium=referral
In Marquay 24620: La Ferme du Brusquand - 24620 Marquay this is outside of Sarlat about 20 minutes we dined with friends at this farm restaurant-they of course make fois gras and use their products-again mostly duck
welcome to ferme du Brusquand
https://lefooding.com/en/restaurant-bordeaux
In the Dordogne you will be spoiled for choice. We of course love to eat duck and fois gras there.
Here are some that I have tried and also include some that my French niece loves:
In Bergerac: l’imparfait
Nos Menus ? Restaurant L?Imparfait ? Bergerac
In Domme: Cabanoix et Châtaigne
https://www.restaurantcabanoix.com/
In Sarlat: La Cremerie (casual for lunch focused on cheeses)
In Sarlat: Le Presidial (for its lovely garden dining)
In Sarlat: les jardins d’harmonie
https://www.lacremerie-sarlat.com/?u...edium=referral
Restaurant in Sarlat | Les Jardins d'Harmonie
Restaurant - Le Présidial - Le restaurant
In La Roque-Gageac, on of our favorites of the trip was O Plaisir Des Sens. It is not right on the "tourist strip" along the river but on the road going in. The garden is lovely and they have a lovely patio garden dining area. They also have a more formal "gastronomique" part of the restaurant and a more casual bistro side (both open for lunch and dinner I think-but maybe only the more fine dining part at night, I can't remember) But even in the fine dining area, it is kind of like California-you can come pretty casual without it feeling too stuffy. And we also bought a lovely cookbook that the chef and his wife created last year showcasing many recipes from local chefs around the Dordogne area-it was a nice souvenir.
https://o-plaisirdessens.com/?utm_so...edium=referral
In Marquay 24620: La Ferme du Brusquand - 24620 Marquay this is outside of Sarlat about 20 minutes we dined with friends at this farm restaurant-they of course make fois gras and use their products-again mostly duck
welcome to ferme du Brusquand
Jun 4th, 2019, 01:36 AM
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In Bordeaux:
Le Bouchon Bordelais
La Cagette
Belle Campagne
Le Bistrot du Musée
Chez Pompom
Le St-Georges
And be sure to check out the new La Boca Foodcourt
Sarlat:
Sarlat isn't exactly brimming over with good restaurants compared to other places in the region. Chez le Gaulois is our favorite (but it's dishes from the Auvergne, not regional ones).
Agree with jpie that Le Présidial and Les Jardins d'Harmonie are nice.
Outside Sarlat, there are myriad wonderful choices. La Ferme du Brusquand is one of our favorites (the family that owns it was featured in the film "Après l'Hiver, Le Printemps, directed by American Judith Lit, who lives in the area - it's often shown on Air France and KLM flights).
La Savie, just outside Meyrals, is wonderful.
Le Moulin du Porteil in Campagne is just getting its legs, but everything is fait-maison and the setting is very pretty.
Garden Party - Limeuil
Chez Julien - Paunat
L'Auberge de la Tang Joli, in the hills above Les Eyzies (go for lunch - the owner is usually snackered by dinnertime)
La Grignotière - Les Eyzies
For an "experience," Auberge de Layotte in Tursac.
La Plume d'Oie in La Roque-Gageac
L'Auberge du Coq, Fleurac
L'Inattendu, Rouffignac
Aux Berges de la Vézère, Montignac
Le Petit Léon, St-Léon-sur-Vézère
Simple, Plazac
La Table du Terroir, La Chapelle-Aubareil
Le Bouchon Bordelais
La Cagette
Belle Campagne
Le Bistrot du Musée
Chez Pompom
Le St-Georges
And be sure to check out the new La Boca Foodcourt
Sarlat:
Sarlat isn't exactly brimming over with good restaurants compared to other places in the region. Chez le Gaulois is our favorite (but it's dishes from the Auvergne, not regional ones).
Agree with jpie that Le Présidial and Les Jardins d'Harmonie are nice.
Outside Sarlat, there are myriad wonderful choices. La Ferme du Brusquand is one of our favorites (the family that owns it was featured in the film "Après l'Hiver, Le Printemps, directed by American Judith Lit, who lives in the area - it's often shown on Air France and KLM flights).
La Savie, just outside Meyrals, is wonderful.
Le Moulin du Porteil in Campagne is just getting its legs, but everything is fait-maison and the setting is very pretty.
Garden Party - Limeuil
Chez Julien - Paunat
L'Auberge de la Tang Joli, in the hills above Les Eyzies (go for lunch - the owner is usually snackered by dinnertime)
La Grignotière - Les Eyzies
For an "experience," Auberge de Layotte in Tursac.
La Plume d'Oie in La Roque-Gageac
L'Auberge du Coq, Fleurac
L'Inattendu, Rouffignac
Aux Berges de la Vézère, Montignac
Le Petit Léon, St-Léon-sur-Vézère
Simple, Plazac
La Table du Terroir, La Chapelle-Aubareil
Jun 4th, 2019, 02:02 AM
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Chez Julien - Paunat
Absolutely! we rented in Paunat last year. Chez Julien is in a tiny village in the grounds of the Abbey. Magical place to sit outside if the weather is good.
I could have have done with some suggestions for Sarlat : really struggled.
The food at Le Terrasse Rouge, La Dominique, Saint Emilion is good. The design of the restaurant and views are world class. The group also own La Brasserie Bordelaise in Bordeaux , the food is good but agin the design of the restaurant creates an incredible atmosphere.
If you want to push the boat out for a reasonable price, Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint Emilion is Michelin two star and offers a 6 course tasting menu for lunch at e65. Considering it was the best food I have ever tasted with a ridiculous attention to detail, pretty good value. Just don’t deviate from the set menu unless you have a flexible mortgage , a glass of Chateau Pavie is e68 ! It’s not laid back, absolutely no atmosphere as diners seem too nervous to talk which seemed to annoy the head waiter “I get so upset, nobody seems to come here to enjoy themselves”. It’s worth the money - just takes food to a different level.
Dont venture towards Arcachon and expect anything but seafood and particularly Oysters. They may be the best in the world but you either love or hate them.
Absolutely! we rented in Paunat last year. Chez Julien is in a tiny village in the grounds of the Abbey. Magical place to sit outside if the weather is good.
I could have have done with some suggestions for Sarlat : really struggled.
The food at Le Terrasse Rouge, La Dominique, Saint Emilion is good. The design of the restaurant and views are world class. The group also own La Brasserie Bordelaise in Bordeaux , the food is good but agin the design of the restaurant creates an incredible atmosphere.
If you want to push the boat out for a reasonable price, Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint Emilion is Michelin two star and offers a 6 course tasting menu for lunch at e65. Considering it was the best food I have ever tasted with a ridiculous attention to detail, pretty good value. Just don’t deviate from the set menu unless you have a flexible mortgage , a glass of Chateau Pavie is e68 ! It’s not laid back, absolutely no atmosphere as diners seem too nervous to talk which seemed to annoy the head waiter “I get so upset, nobody seems to come here to enjoy themselves”. It’s worth the money - just takes food to a different level.
Dont venture towards Arcachon and expect anything but seafood and particularly Oysters. They may be the best in the world but you either love or hate them.
Jun 4th, 2019, 02:36 AM
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Well, BC, the last time we went to Arcachon (early September of 2018, I believe), intending a daytrip from Bordeaux, was a disaster. The train broke down and we were all herded onto a bus, which took FAR longer than the train was supposed to. In fact, once arrived in Arcachon, we found out it was a mere 15 minutes before the next bus to take us back to Bordeaux, and the last bus of the day, at that. So we decided to stay in Arcachon for the night, figuring at least we could slurp on oysters by the seaside. NOT. We trekked all over Arcachon, up and down the beach, through all the little streets in the interior - we covered every inch of that place - and not an oyster in sight (and if I'm not mistaken, September is still oyster season). We finally found a very unassuming place with a couple of plastic tables and chairs outside that had oysters - whew! They were delicious (but we love oysters!).
There's a little shack-ey sort of place in Bordeaux called the Bar a Huitres that serves nothing but oysters and Champagne and Prosecco, and every day they have a selection of oysters from all over. We were astonished to see one time that they were featuring oysters from Chincoteague, VA (which were our favorites when we lived in DC and went to Chincoteague with some frequency). How on earth, I wondered, did this guy get Chincoteague oysters? Turns out his brother is an oyster farmer there and has them flown in periodically.
There's a little shack-ey sort of place in Bordeaux called the Bar a Huitres that serves nothing but oysters and Champagne and Prosecco, and every day they have a selection of oysters from all over. We were astonished to see one time that they were featuring oysters from Chincoteague, VA (which were our favorites when we lived in DC and went to Chincoteague with some frequency). How on earth, I wondered, did this guy get Chincoteague oysters? Turns out his brother is an oyster farmer there and has them flown in periodically.
Jun 4th, 2019, 03:24 AM
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“The train broke down”
Get a bicycle !
i was ashamed to be British when I cycled from Royan to La Rochelle. There’s just many, many little eating places at the side of the road in the marshes. The vary from shacks to designer glass houses and most seem to just either buy from the fisherman next door or catch the food themselves.
We are still just generally clueless in Britain when it comes to the eating experience.
I’m not sure if you have been to this area but it’s very untouristy and has a really laid back feel. I think all the vistors head for Royan, Oleron, La Rochelle and Il de Re. Reminds me a lot of the back waters of The Carolinas which is a good thing!
i was going to cycle to Cap Feret to see some of the crazy places down there but never made it.
There’s a “restaurant” down there which simply has a land base but also a fleet of motorised small barges. Your table is on the barge with three others. You choose what you want to eat, set sail and float off down the coast. Love it!
You made the the right decision with where to live. The Dordogne definitely has the right, jolie feel. It was a lovely feeling to roll up in Lalinde, three weeks ago.
Get a bicycle !
i was ashamed to be British when I cycled from Royan to La Rochelle. There’s just many, many little eating places at the side of the road in the marshes. The vary from shacks to designer glass houses and most seem to just either buy from the fisherman next door or catch the food themselves.
We are still just generally clueless in Britain when it comes to the eating experience.
I’m not sure if you have been to this area but it’s very untouristy and has a really laid back feel. I think all the vistors head for Royan, Oleron, La Rochelle and Il de Re. Reminds me a lot of the back waters of The Carolinas which is a good thing!
i was going to cycle to Cap Feret to see some of the crazy places down there but never made it.
There’s a “restaurant” down there which simply has a land base but also a fleet of motorised small barges. Your table is on the barge with three others. You choose what you want to eat, set sail and float off down the coast. Love it!
You made the the right decision with where to live. The Dordogne definitely has the right, jolie feel. It was a lovely feeling to roll up in Lalinde, three weeks ago.
Jun 4th, 2019, 03:58 AM
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BC, sorry but bicycles and I don't work well together
I haven't been to Cap Ferret for a few years, but there used to be a sweet little shack right on the beach, not far from where le petit train loaded and unloaded. Best, freshest seafood imaginable for pennies.
I haven't recently been in the area between Royan and La Rochelle, but did read an article in a magazine recently about some of the old fishermen's houses/retreats (which people are buying up and restoring like crazy). The whole area looked pristine and calm, and I'd bet there's some good food there!
No quibbles about living in the Dordogne!
I haven't been to Cap Ferret for a few years, but there used to be a sweet little shack right on the beach, not far from where le petit train loaded and unloaded. Best, freshest seafood imaginable for pennies.
I haven't recently been in the area between Royan and La Rochelle, but did read an article in a magazine recently about some of the old fishermen's houses/retreats (which people are buying up and restoring like crazy). The whole area looked pristine and calm, and I'd bet there's some good food there!
No quibbles about living in the Dordogne!
Jun 4th, 2019, 06:38 AM
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Our family house is in the area between Royan and La Rochelle and compared to the Dordogne, our restaurant choices aren't that exciting aside from fresh oysters as you both mentioned, and some places out on ile de re or in La Rochelle. Royan is pretty lacking to be honest. Really the only "haute cuisine" in the area is in a village called Breuillet and is called L'Aquarelle. They moved to a beautiful country setting and opened a small hotel. They are a Michelin 1 star restaurant. St. Cirq maybe next year we can go check it out with you 
Hôtel-Restaurant L'Aquarelle
71a Route du Montil, 17920 Breuillet
ACCUEIL - L'AQUARELLE, Xavier Taffart, Restaurant ?toil? Michelin, Breuillet, Royan, France
In Vaux sur Mer, I also want to try a placed called La Cottage:
http://www.lecottagerestaurant.com/
Hôtel-Restaurant L'Aquarelle
71a Route du Montil, 17920 Breuillet
ACCUEIL - L'AQUARELLE, Xavier Taffart, Restaurant ?toil? Michelin, Breuillet, Royan, France
In Vaux sur Mer, I also want to try a placed called La Cottage:
http://www.lecottagerestaurant.com/
Jun 4th, 2019, 08:18 AM
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We spent 4 nights in the Arcachon bassin last summer and had a memorable experience (had a car so avoided the train woes!). We based ourselves in the "Winter Town" so away from the heavy tourist traffic of the Ville d'été (Summer Town). We enjoyed visiting the newly renovated indoor market and there are several counters there including a Bouchon and a nice oyster bar for sit-down dining. We had a nice lunch at Le Bistro du Port (a Pudlo rec) in the fishermen's *l’Aiguillon section. But the Cabane de l'Aiguillon oyster shack there just couldn't compete with those on Cap Ferret.
While in Arcachon we drove to Cap Ferret (could have taken the ferry but wanted to explore the entire area) and stopped for a terrific oyster feast at La Canfouine in Le Canon (a cute town and a rec of lefooding). There were many other oyster cabanes on our list, such as Chez Boulon (with branch in the Chartrons quarter of Bordeaux) and La Pinasse Café right at the landing, but didn't get to them.
In Bordeaux where we've stopped for the past two summers we enjoy Chez Dupont (just got a nod in the NYTimes travel section) in the Chartrons antiques quarter and the suites that belong to it. The Sunday morning market there on the quai is fun.
There's the new Les Halles de Bacalan across from the Cité du Vin, that is an interesting "food court".
We booked our splurge anniversary lunch at Miles, run by 4 young chefs, Korean, Danish, Indian, and English. *For our Bordeaux dining recs we've used the Guide Ballarin (unfortunately not online; we have the guidebook in our library)
While in Arcachon we drove to Cap Ferret (could have taken the ferry but wanted to explore the entire area) and stopped for a terrific oyster feast at La Canfouine in Le Canon (a cute town and a rec of lefooding). There were many other oyster cabanes on our list, such as Chez Boulon (with branch in the Chartrons quarter of Bordeaux) and La Pinasse Café right at the landing, but didn't get to them.
In Bordeaux where we've stopped for the past two summers we enjoy Chez Dupont (just got a nod in the NYTimes travel section) in the Chartrons antiques quarter and the suites that belong to it. The Sunday morning market there on the quai is fun.
There's the new Les Halles de Bacalan across from the Cité du Vin, that is an interesting "food court".
We booked our splurge anniversary lunch at Miles, run by 4 young chefs, Korean, Danish, Indian, and English. *For our Bordeaux dining recs we've used the Guide Ballarin (unfortunately not online; we have the guidebook in our library)
Jun 4th, 2019, 08:21 AM
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Jpie
I cycled very closeby, we are going down in July but mad Cocker Spaniels don’t tend to respect Michelin stars.
The next town had the interesting places, Mornac-sur-Seudre and then the road through the marshes up to Saint Jean Angle.
I really loved La Rochelle, it’s great when you find a area new to yourself after covering most of Europe. Especially when it’s a 90 minute flight not 12 hours. We felt the same way about the Stockholm Archipelago.
I cycled very closeby, we are going down in July but mad Cocker Spaniels don’t tend to respect Michelin stars.
The next town had the interesting places, Mornac-sur-Seudre and then the road through the marshes up to Saint Jean Angle.
I really loved La Rochelle, it’s great when you find a area new to yourself after covering most of Europe. Especially when it’s a 90 minute flight not 12 hours. We felt the same way about the Stockholm Archipelago.
Jun 4th, 2019, 10:22 AM
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A thousand thanks!! Some really good places here - it will be perfect and give us a nice assortment of places to chose - from the FoodCourt to the Saint Emilion two star. Appreciate the feedback....I'm already feeling full just from reading!
