Betty's Sicily Trip Report Consolidated
May 31st, 2004, 08:10 AM
#1
Original Poster
Betty's Sicily Trip Report Consolidated
Just returned from 2 weeks in Sicily. Very inspiring island, rich with history, awe-inspiring architecture, natural beauty (including active VULCANOES!), friendly people, and of course, great food & wine! Palermo/Monreale was our first stop. Come here for the monuments and churches...an endless array. If I had to pick a favorite place, it would be the Palatine Chapel in Palazzo dei Normanni. The Chapel managed to be dazzlingly beautiful, while retaining a remarkable sense of warmth at the same time. Look up and marvel at the Arabo-Norman ceiling. I could stay in there for hours. As a New Yorker who loves to walk, I found Palermo to be very pedestrian-unfriendly...in many parts of the city (except for the more upper-crust shopping districts), sidewalks and traffic lights are non-existent! The very act of crossing a street became a major, stress-inducing experience. Especially in the old section of town, the concentration of polluting cars and congestion became unbearable! But if you can endure this aspect of Palermo for a few days, you will be rewarded with many architectural wonders. CIN-CIN restaurant in Palermo was perhaps the most outstanding meal of my whole trip, particularly if you enjoy fresh seafood.
May 31st, 2004, 08:11 AM
#2
Original Poster
ERICE/SCOPELLO
Erice was more touristy than I expected. We enjoyed it anyway. The dramatic views from its position are breath-taking. We had a hotel room with a balcony so that Trapani and the Egadi islands were at our feet. With binoculars, we could see Trapani's famous salt mines. (Dress warmly!) The medieval town's centre was full of tourist shops, including specialty food and wine stores. The castle in Erice has more wonderful views, and the guy working at the entrance is full of interesting anecdotes about its history. For example, he told us that the Normans would throw hot oil on their encroaching enemies from this strategic perch. Before reaching Erice, we stopped nearby at the ZINGARO nature preserve in SCOPELLO. Hiking in Zingaro was just BEAUTIFUL! The unusual vegetation, the views, the gorgeous beaches with sea caves...One of the few regrets we had on this trip was not being able to hike the entire length of Zingaro (we were pressed for time). Another reason to return to Sicily...
Erice was more touristy than I expected. We enjoyed it anyway. The dramatic views from its position are breath-taking. We had a hotel room with a balcony so that Trapani and the Egadi islands were at our feet. With binoculars, we could see Trapani's famous salt mines. (Dress warmly!) The medieval town's centre was full of tourist shops, including specialty food and wine stores. The castle in Erice has more wonderful views, and the guy working at the entrance is full of interesting anecdotes about its history. For example, he told us that the Normans would throw hot oil on their encroaching enemies from this strategic perch. Before reaching Erice, we stopped nearby at the ZINGARO nature preserve in SCOPELLO. Hiking in Zingaro was just BEAUTIFUL! The unusual vegetation, the views, the gorgeous beaches with sea caves...One of the few regrets we had on this trip was not being able to hike the entire length of Zingaro (we were pressed for time). Another reason to return to Sicily...
May 31st, 2004, 08:13 AM
#3
Original Poster
AGRIGENTO
One of the smartest things we did on this trip was to hire personal tour guides for certain areas. My husband and I are not crazy about large tour groups -- we like to ask our guides a lot of questions. Our guide, Nicoletta, in Agrigento was simply outstanding! She really made the Agrigento of the Greeks come alive for us and was a wealth of knowledge. We also managed to cover the impressive Archaeological Museum near the temples --not to be missed!
TAORMINA
Yes, it's touristy. But when you go there, you'll know exactly why. Gorgeous views, clean, pretty streets and houses (a nice change from Palermo), scents of lemon trees and jasmine everywhere. At times, it felt like a less-jaded Capri (another touristy place in southern Italy that I adore). Stayed at VILLA SCHULER, which turned out to be even nicer than I expected -- request a room with a view of Mt. Etna. The staff was both friendly and helpful, the central location can not be beat, and the breakfast we had there was the best in all of our Sicily travels. We had fun strolling and window-shopping around town. Try to explore the side streets in addition to the main Corso Umberto I. Taormina is also an excellent base for exploring the big, bad volcano Mt. Etna (which I will discuss in Pt. 5). Unfortunately, if you want to eat well in this town, you really have to spend the $$$. We tried to stick to the more moderately priced restaurants and were not impressed with any of them! The owner-host of U BOSSU restaurant was very funny and sweet, though. Also, we were NOT IMPRESSED with the beaches below Taormina! There was an ugly, high-speed train running on tracks right near the beaches, which really disturbed any sense of calm. (If you have time, explore the beaches around San Vito lo Capo and Scopello in Northwest Sicily instead.) My dream is to return someday to enjoy an evening concert in Taormina's Greek Theatre. Must return...
One of the smartest things we did on this trip was to hire personal tour guides for certain areas. My husband and I are not crazy about large tour groups -- we like to ask our guides a lot of questions. Our guide, Nicoletta, in Agrigento was simply outstanding! She really made the Agrigento of the Greeks come alive for us and was a wealth of knowledge. We also managed to cover the impressive Archaeological Museum near the temples --not to be missed!
TAORMINA
Yes, it's touristy. But when you go there, you'll know exactly why. Gorgeous views, clean, pretty streets and houses (a nice change from Palermo), scents of lemon trees and jasmine everywhere. At times, it felt like a less-jaded Capri (another touristy place in southern Italy that I adore). Stayed at VILLA SCHULER, which turned out to be even nicer than I expected -- request a room with a view of Mt. Etna. The staff was both friendly and helpful, the central location can not be beat, and the breakfast we had there was the best in all of our Sicily travels. We had fun strolling and window-shopping around town. Try to explore the side streets in addition to the main Corso Umberto I. Taormina is also an excellent base for exploring the big, bad volcano Mt. Etna (which I will discuss in Pt. 5). Unfortunately, if you want to eat well in this town, you really have to spend the $$$. We tried to stick to the more moderately priced restaurants and were not impressed with any of them! The owner-host of U BOSSU restaurant was very funny and sweet, though. Also, we were NOT IMPRESSED with the beaches below Taormina! There was an ugly, high-speed train running on tracks right near the beaches, which really disturbed any sense of calm. (If you have time, explore the beaches around San Vito lo Capo and Scopello in Northwest Sicily instead.) My dream is to return someday to enjoy an evening concert in Taormina's Greek Theatre. Must return...
May 31st, 2004, 08:14 AM
#4
Original Poster
MT ETNA
If you don't get dizzy on heights, YOU MUST EXPLORE MT. ETNA. It is really a spiritual experience. Some travellers say hiking around its craters is how they would imagine walking on the moon to feel like. To me, it felt like I was exploring a new civilization! Our guide took us for a walk around craters from the last big 2002 eruption, while pointing out craters from previous years. While I got a little dizzy on the zig-zaggy drive up to the craters (we reached 2,100 meters above sea level), once I actually got out of the car and started walking around, I felt GREAT! It was a clear day, the air was cool, but there was no wind. There were beautiful lava stones everywhere -- not only, black, but silver, red, pink, brown. Our guide told us that he has walked for hours through entire caves formed by Etna's lava! Just go!
STROMBOLI
I was intrigued, reading about the Aeolian islands. While many Fodor members recommended that we stay on Lipari because there's more "action" there, I chose to stay on Stromboli. Maybe because we're from NYC, so we didn't feel the need to be in the center of action. The idea of an island without any cars really appealed to us, and of course, we had our volcano fascination (see my Pt. 4 trip report on Mt. Etna). After Mt. Etna, Stromboli's continuously active volcano feels much smaller and more accessible; my husband describes Stromboli's volcano as "cute." And it really is doing something every day! It is legal to hike only up to 450 meters with a guide. We saw minor eruptions, mostly in the morning. It sounded first like fireworks followed by rising smoke and then, depending on where you are situated, you can see various rocks tumbling down the side of the volcano dramatically into the sea. We were not lucky enough on our short visit to see the lava flows, but others at our hotel did see lava one night. Besides the volcano, there are peaceful, black-sand (volcanic sand) beaches -- our favorite was at PISCITA. Before I arrived at Stromboli, I thought I would be scared or disturbed by black sand. Just the opposite: the sand felt super-clean, even therapeutic. Believe me, the deep blue water next to the glittering black sand is gorgeous together, dramatic! My second-best meal in all of Sicily was at PUNTA LENA. Super-fresh seafood. I thought fresh seafood would be everywhere in SIcily's restaurants, but unfortunately, this was not the case. Really enjoyed hiking up Stromboli and seeing all the unusual vegetation (thousands of species of plants and flowers) that thrive on volcanic soil. I hadn't realized that volcanic soil was so rich in minerals and nutrients! Around Mt. Etna, there are roses that grow to gigantic sizes, all because of the rich soil! Also, you must try atleast once the impressive ETNA ROSSO red wine. (Ask a local to recommend a brand for you. Wines in Sicily are inexpensive for the quality that you get.) Stromboli is peaceful, unusual and beautiful!
If you don't get dizzy on heights, YOU MUST EXPLORE MT. ETNA. It is really a spiritual experience. Some travellers say hiking around its craters is how they would imagine walking on the moon to feel like. To me, it felt like I was exploring a new civilization! Our guide took us for a walk around craters from the last big 2002 eruption, while pointing out craters from previous years. While I got a little dizzy on the zig-zaggy drive up to the craters (we reached 2,100 meters above sea level), once I actually got out of the car and started walking around, I felt GREAT! It was a clear day, the air was cool, but there was no wind. There were beautiful lava stones everywhere -- not only, black, but silver, red, pink, brown. Our guide told us that he has walked for hours through entire caves formed by Etna's lava! Just go!
STROMBOLI
I was intrigued, reading about the Aeolian islands. While many Fodor members recommended that we stay on Lipari because there's more "action" there, I chose to stay on Stromboli. Maybe because we're from NYC, so we didn't feel the need to be in the center of action. The idea of an island without any cars really appealed to us, and of course, we had our volcano fascination (see my Pt. 4 trip report on Mt. Etna). After Mt. Etna, Stromboli's continuously active volcano feels much smaller and more accessible; my husband describes Stromboli's volcano as "cute." And it really is doing something every day! It is legal to hike only up to 450 meters with a guide. We saw minor eruptions, mostly in the morning. It sounded first like fireworks followed by rising smoke and then, depending on where you are situated, you can see various rocks tumbling down the side of the volcano dramatically into the sea. We were not lucky enough on our short visit to see the lava flows, but others at our hotel did see lava one night. Besides the volcano, there are peaceful, black-sand (volcanic sand) beaches -- our favorite was at PISCITA. Before I arrived at Stromboli, I thought I would be scared or disturbed by black sand. Just the opposite: the sand felt super-clean, even therapeutic. Believe me, the deep blue water next to the glittering black sand is gorgeous together, dramatic! My second-best meal in all of Sicily was at PUNTA LENA. Super-fresh seafood. I thought fresh seafood would be everywhere in SIcily's restaurants, but unfortunately, this was not the case. Really enjoyed hiking up Stromboli and seeing all the unusual vegetation (thousands of species of plants and flowers) that thrive on volcanic soil. I hadn't realized that volcanic soil was so rich in minerals and nutrients! Around Mt. Etna, there are roses that grow to gigantic sizes, all because of the rich soil! Also, you must try atleast once the impressive ETNA ROSSO red wine. (Ask a local to recommend a brand for you. Wines in Sicily are inexpensive for the quality that you get.) Stromboli is peaceful, unusual and beautiful!
May 31st, 2004, 08:14 AM
#5
Original Poster
SUMMARY
Many thanks to GAC, cmt, andre, AP6380, RAR and others who provided advice to me about Sicily. It is truly a place with amazing architectural and historical richness and compelling natural beauty. Having seen a lot in 2 weeks by rental car, bus, hydrofoil and foot, I still yearn to return. Next time I hope to visit NOTO and RAGUSA to enjoy more of the baroque architecture, to enjoy some of the hip music scene and nightclubs of Catania and Aci Castello, to attend an evening concert at Taormina's majestic Greek theatre, and to climb Etna once again, perhaps from a totally different direction than before. In summary, here are the things I would try not to miss (based on my personal taste and experience): 1) Palermo can be dirty, polluted, and just plain annoying for those who like to walk, but DON'T MISS the Palatine Chapel/Palazzo dei Normanni, Monreale Duomo, and a walk around the city's dizzying array of churches and villas. I did not have any problem with crime in Sicily. Just use common sense as you would in any big city; 2) DON'T MISS a beautiful hike around ZINGARO nature preserve near Scopello (northwest Sicily);
3) DON'T MISS Agrigento. Hire a personal tour guide. You will never forget this experience; 4) DON'T MISS Taormina. Touristy for good reasons. You can skip the beaches below, though. Also, we were not impressed by GIARDINI/NAXOS nearby, but a hike up to CASTELMOLA, the town above Taormina, was divine for the views. Also, CASTELMOLA is a super-cute town. If you don't like hiking uphill from Taormina, take the bus there; 5) DON'T MISS a hike around Mt. Etna. Don't forget to sample the local ETNA ROSSO red wine. Gorgeous wine! 6) Don't miss the AEOLIAN ISLANDS. Unusual and beautiful. We only got to see Stromboli this time and did not regret our choice. Next time, a boat trip around the sea caves and grottoes of PANAREA also. 7) Don't miss a fresh seafood dinner -- ask a local for recommendations. CIAO!
Many thanks to GAC, cmt, andre, AP6380, RAR and others who provided advice to me about Sicily. It is truly a place with amazing architectural and historical richness and compelling natural beauty. Having seen a lot in 2 weeks by rental car, bus, hydrofoil and foot, I still yearn to return. Next time I hope to visit NOTO and RAGUSA to enjoy more of the baroque architecture, to enjoy some of the hip music scene and nightclubs of Catania and Aci Castello, to attend an evening concert at Taormina's majestic Greek theatre, and to climb Etna once again, perhaps from a totally different direction than before. In summary, here are the things I would try not to miss (based on my personal taste and experience): 1) Palermo can be dirty, polluted, and just plain annoying for those who like to walk, but DON'T MISS the Palatine Chapel/Palazzo dei Normanni, Monreale Duomo, and a walk around the city's dizzying array of churches and villas. I did not have any problem with crime in Sicily. Just use common sense as you would in any big city; 2) DON'T MISS a beautiful hike around ZINGARO nature preserve near Scopello (northwest Sicily);
3) DON'T MISS Agrigento. Hire a personal tour guide. You will never forget this experience; 4) DON'T MISS Taormina. Touristy for good reasons. You can skip the beaches below, though. Also, we were not impressed by GIARDINI/NAXOS nearby, but a hike up to CASTELMOLA, the town above Taormina, was divine for the views. Also, CASTELMOLA is a super-cute town. If you don't like hiking uphill from Taormina, take the bus there; 5) DON'T MISS a hike around Mt. Etna. Don't forget to sample the local ETNA ROSSO red wine. Gorgeous wine! 6) Don't miss the AEOLIAN ISLANDS. Unusual and beautiful. We only got to see Stromboli this time and did not regret our choice. Next time, a boat trip around the sea caves and grottoes of PANAREA also. 7) Don't miss a fresh seafood dinner -- ask a local for recommendations. CIAO!
May 31st, 2004, 08:16 AM
#6
Original Poster
Apparently I have *way* too much time on my hands - Betty - very nice trip report - I love Sicily and was sorry to miss Stromboli when we were there in '02 (weather prohibited going) - but you've energized me to return. Thanks!
Jun 2nd, 2004, 03:47 AM
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Thanks to Elizabeth S. for consolidating my report -- I was too jet-lagged at the time to figure out how to do it myself! Also thanks to Patrick for his Sicily suggestions before I left on my trip.
Jun 2nd, 2004, 07:51 AM
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Hi Elizabeth,
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your travel report. I will be traveling to Sicily in Sept. and I am also planning a trip to Mt. Etna. I am interested in knowing where you found your guide for your tour of the the Vulcano. We plan on driving ourselves to Mt. Etna, do we find a guide when we get there?
Thanks,
Rob W
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your travel report. I will be traveling to Sicily in Sept. and I am also planning a trip to Mt. Etna. I am interested in knowing where you found your guide for your tour of the the Vulcano. We plan on driving ourselves to Mt. Etna, do we find a guide when we get there?
Thanks,
Rob W
Jun 2nd, 2004, 06:15 PM
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Hi Rob W.
Actually I wrote this report (Betty). Elizabeth helped me to cut & paste it all together. I found my guide at www.sicilylife.com
You can check out their website and request prices before you arrive in Sicily.
--Betty
Actually I wrote this report (Betty). Elizabeth helped me to cut & paste it all together. I found my guide at www.sicilylife.com
You can check out their website and request prices before you arrive in Sicily.
--Betty
Aug 25th, 2004, 11:06 AM
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Hi Bettyo 70
Just wanted to confirm that Nicoletta, your guide for Agrigento came from "Best of Sicily". Correct?
Also, can you recall the cost? About?
Thanks. bob
PS: Can you hire a guide upon arrival in Agrigento or must you have one with you from Palermo?
Just wanted to confirm that Nicoletta, your guide for Agrigento came from "Best of Sicily". Correct?
Also, can you recall the cost? About?
Thanks. bob
PS: Can you hire a guide upon arrival in Agrigento or must you have one with you from Palermo?
Aug 25th, 2004, 11:20 AM
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Bob,
No, actually I found Nicoletta from www.sicilytravel.net
You can request her as your guide in Agrigento.
The site also arranges personal tours around Palermo and many other Sicilian cities.
I can't remember the exact price for the two of us (me and my husband) -- something like 160 euros? And damn well worth it! Enjoy.
No, actually I found Nicoletta from www.sicilytravel.net
You can request her as your guide in Agrigento.
The site also arranges personal tours around Palermo and many other Sicilian cities.
I can't remember the exact price for the two of us (me and my husband) -- something like 160 euros? And damn well worth it! Enjoy.
