What would anyone/everyone recommend as the best overall/most variety/most affordable ski resort in Switzerland...for intermediate skiers who do not need the glitz, would like the quality, but would like to stay in one town and ski a variety of places WITHOUT a rental car?

I am no expert, but I am looking strongly at Zermatt...and also awaiting advice on this board as to any other places that I should be looking at.

Zermatt does not have the "glitz" associated with other resorts such as St. Moritz and not having a car is never a problem since automobiles are banned and train connections from major landing cities such as Geneva and Zurich are easy..and even easier if you check skis all the way through on an airline such as Swiss. There are a wide variety of accommodations available from the high end to the lower end..the village is small enough to get around on foot or via electric taxi. And, of course, the highest peak in the entire country, the Matterhorn.

I found the St. Moritz/Engadine skiing area to be the best. I am not part of the glitzy crowd - it is just funny, very interesting to watch them (but you don't have to). You definitely don't need a car, public transportation is top. Variety of both skiing AND towns/villages is also finest.

Don't worry about "affordable". In the villages around St. Moritz it is not more expensive than somewhere else in a good skiing area in Switzerland (and the best in Austria).

I think Ingo makes a good point about the expenses but notice that it is less expensive in the villages AROUND St. Moritz. I have found, in the past, less expensive (than some others) accommodations within St. Moritz (and believe me, the place isn't all THAT huge)but you'll have to do a little research. A lot of people prefer Davos, too, so you might also consider that.

I am by no means an expert on Switzerland (unlike Ingo!) but I found that Zermatt is so unique that the costs did not really become an issue! I found, in my many Euro ski trips, that you take advantage of that great Euro tradition of Half-Board and 3-star Hotels and you pretty much have the basics beat! The packages usually have discount weekly lift tix that cost up to 1/2 of what Aspen-Vail would charge.
I also was 'pushed' to try the area around 'Villar". What a pleasant experience! The area had a 'Vast, Interconected ski-circus (slopes) that kept me very interested for the week! I also had one my great one day ski moments when I had 'tandem Paraglided' off the slopes into town! WOW!
JOHN

Hi Steffen & timjstark,

I know I'm in the minority, but I didn't care for Zermatt the one time I skied there. While its slopes may be paradise for an expert skier, most of them were beyond the comfort level for me, a terminal intermediate. The weather was also waay beyond the comfort level -- the almost constant wind made the cold really jarring and obscured the trails with blowing snow.

In contrast, I've skied the Jungfrau region three times, once from Wengen and twice from Grindelwald. I've found the variety here to be truly astounding, especially for an intermediate. The area has three major ski regions, allowing you to ski for hours without using the same lift twice and to ski in and out of many different villages in the area. In addition, I think it's in a sunnier situation; at any rate, it was balmy with sunshine and mild temps all three times I was there. I think Grindelwald is the most convenient to the vast intermediate ski area called First, but Wengen is the most picturesque. Check out the ski maps & hotels at www.wengen.com and www.grindelwald.ch. I recommend you pay for group "lessons" for at least part of every day as the instructor will lead you to the best day's skiing and will make sure you see every inch of the ski-able terrain!

Of course, Ingo has skied all of these areas -- Engadin, Jungfrau, and Zermatt. I haven't skied in the Engadin, but I really do trust his opinion. If you want to investigate his Engadin and avoid the glitzy prices, maybe look into Sils, Silvaplana or Pontresina, all gorgeous places I visited (on Ingo's recommendation) this June. Surf around www.engadin.ch for more information.

Hope this helps --

s

Well, finally an interesting thread! Skiing questions are very rare here on this board.

Re: Zermatt - It is indeed unique, John, car-free with gorgeous mountain scenery. There are some facts to consider, though. Although it is car-free, since it is a relatively compact small town there is a lot of traffic in the narrow streets - public ski buses, small hotel buses, horse-drawn carriages etc. And many tourists! The station of the Schwarzsee-Klein Matterhorn cable cars is quite a distance away from the centre and inconvenient to access (crowded ski buses). I personally had fine weather there, but have in mind that the skiing areas are located at very high elevation for Europe: the highest lift reaches 3899 m!! A place for late winter only IMO. I also agree with s that most runs are too difficult for an intermediate skier.

Grindelwald/Wengen are fantastic, no doubt. Not my favourite, though, I don't know why. Maybe a question of "athmosphere" and food.

Affordable is always relative. Sure, Zermatt packages are overall cheaper than skiing in Colorado, but still expensive for European relations. I concur with Intrepid, I also stayed in ST. Moritz itself (3star Hotel Laudinella e.g.) and it was neither glitzy nor expensive. Like intrepid said, you must do some research!

I would recommend against Davos. Although the skiing area is excellent and offers great variety, they closed the nice small Schatzalp/Strela part last year which is a loss. Also, public transportation by railway is no longer included in the skipass (you need it travelling back to Davos after skiing down the famous Weissfluh-run to Küblis). In addition IMO Davos itself lacks any Alpine charm.

I posted a trip report about my latest winter vacation in St. Moritz area on Fodors. Maybe you can find it (with a link to pics). FYI I have a page on Virtualtourist with tips for St. Moritz/Engadin: http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a88f9/
(See Sports Travel Tips and Travelogues)

Ingo

Thanks everyone for your replies! I was almost set on Zermatt, but the reply from swandav2000 seems to be a bit troubling. Is there enough skiing at Zermatt for intermediates? We would like to spend the entire week at one place and not have to travel to get to slopes that are NOT for experts only. Any thoughts on this??

Steffen:

I agree with swanda. Although I have slipped back to strong intermediate in my skiing ability, I found that Zermatt had a 'presence' that appealed to me! Probably the lure of the Mattehorn (like the pull of the moon!) made it a special place.
But if I had to really think about it....the skiing was a tad difficult.. very 'icy' conditions in 1999. The slopes were challenging to begin with and became harder due to the conditions. One of the days the winds were so strong that we played a game of seeing how far 'uphill' we could ski on a wind aided slope!

LIke I said previously, I have only a few experiences in Switzerland. If you want to try another country *Austria or Italy I can help steer you to some awesome intermediate ski areas!
JOHN

What do you reccommend for the intermediate in Italy ? I'm hoping to visit an Italian ski resort at the beginning of the year-more for atmosphere and the town, but maybe for a little skiing. Thank you.

FTP:

Two nice towns for skiing and MORE would be:

Cortina d'Ampezzo. The 'glamour gal' of the Itallian Alps. Has it all, including the Italian crowds

Courmyeur(sp?) (near French Border) Has a nice town, Big Mountain (Monte Bianco) and near a great area called The Gran Paradiso!

A good "Skiing only" area for intermediates is: "Madonna d Campaglia"

I also heard some nice things about the Austrian/Italian area of and near Val Gardena. Keep trying to get here but......oh well maybe this year!
JOHN

Perhaps you're convinced Switzerland is where you want to go, but your preferences make the Serre Chevalier ski domaine in France (Hautes Alpes) sound like like a good fit. It's a traditional ski resort, as opposed to the many purpose-built concrete monoliths that have sprung up in France. Briancon is the main town, with a lovely old town section. And skiing in France is less expensive than in Switzerland!

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