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Berlin to Dresden to Prague in eight days

Berlin to Dresden to Prague in eight days

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Old May 4th, 2013 | 04:49 AM
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Berlin to Dresden to Prague in eight days

<b>The overview</b>

We just returned from a relatively quick eight-day holiday break to Berlin, Dresden and Prague and are trying to get going on a trip report while things are still fresh in mind.

I’ve been to Berlin and Prague previously, but it was a number of years ago and the visits were rushed and memories a little blurry. I had “bookmarked” both as places to which I needed to return. Prague has long been near the top of mr_go’s wish list. Dresden was new for both of us. By the way, this was just the two of us this time; DD is away at college (and planning her own international adventures now).

Given those locations, we hand-picked the time of year, figuring late spring would provide a good compromise—not too cold but before the summer crowds (particularly in Prague) arrived.

Actual dates were set early on by availability of upgrade awards on United Airlines, constraining us to eight nights. A few more days would have been nice, but as it turns out, things around here workwise and otherwise are a little hectic, and neither of us would have been able to be away much longer anyway. Our flight from the US via Frankfurt arrived in Berlin at 8 am, essentially giving us a full day on the front end, so that helped somewhat.

Having been to two of the three cities before, I had a pretty good idea of areas in which we should stay (Dresden is small enough that it didn’t require much research on locations). That helped us focus our accommodation research, and we eventually booked the following:

Berlin: three nights @ Adina Hackescher Markt (Mitte)
Dresden: two nights @ NH Dresden Altmarkt
Prague: three nights @ Domus Balthasar (Malá Strana)

All three were fantastic choices—both the accommodations and the location! More on that later.

We traveled between cities by train, booked via Bahn.de one to two weeks before we left home.

We’re thinking this trip report will be more of a random series of observations and experiences and not so much a day-by-day report…but we’ll see. There will be photos—but that’s going to take some time to organize.
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Old May 4th, 2013 | 04:52 AM
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<b>The trip that almost wasn’t</b>

All the research was done and arrangements made, neighbors briefed to take care of the house, and work matters wrapped up (well, as best as possible). All that remained was packing and awaiting our 11:30 am ride to O’Hare on Tuesday.

At 5:30 pm on Monday, mr_go arrived home from work, ran in the door and headed straight for the bathroom announcing that he had food poisoning and was very ill. It got worse from there. Much worse. At 11 pm that night, we discussed the possibility of having to reschedule but decided to wait until morning to make a decision.

Some “symptoms” subsided overnight, and in the morning we decided to push on, albeit cautiously and with the expectation that the first few days would be at a more moderate pace. Fortified with only a small amount of Gatorade, he was able to finish packing, and we got to the airport, through check in and security and eventually onto the plane. And with the added sustenance of a dinner roll, a few bites of ice cream sundae and some ginger ale on the flight, we were able to navigate our 60-minute connection in Frankfurt (actually, it was a pretty expeditious and easy connection as FRA connections go) and get on to Berlin.

And so started our holiday.
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Old May 4th, 2013 | 05:06 AM
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your poor DH! but things could only get better after that start, couldn't they?

looking forward to more....
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Old May 4th, 2013 | 06:08 AM
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Can't wait to hear more! I'm glad you didn't have to cancel your trip! Poor mr_go!
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Old May 4th, 2013 | 06:17 AM
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Yay! I love your trip reports! Sorry about mr_go's troubles at the start. I hope he bounced back quickly. That's one of my worst travel fears.

I'm looking forward to the rest.
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Old May 4th, 2013 | 06:28 AM
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Glad you didn't encounter mr_nogo. Looking forward to more.
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Old May 5th, 2013 | 09:16 AM
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<b>The Rebound</b>

Fact is, I've had food poisoning a few times before. It's awful, but I do know how to treat it. So...lots of water, virtually no food or drinks on the flight over, no food for most of the first day, plenty of fresh air and walking around (which always seems to help me), and no beverages besides water until the evening of day 2. I eased back into breakfast and lunch, first with bananas, white bread, rice, etc., and then a little potato soup on day 2, and then a little angel hair pasta. By the evening of day 3, I felt sufficiently recovered to have a decent tapas meal and some wine. On night 4, I stress-tested the system with a full German meal in a traditional beer hall. All systems go.

The thing that genuinely surprised me was the amount of energy I had to walk around, even on the first two days. We easily covered about a dozen miles on foot those two days, and that's a conservative estimate. I suppose that rapidly losing 6 or 7 pounds helped lighten the load a bit!

<b>The Neighborhood in Berlin</b>

The Adina Hotel in Berlin is located next to the Hackescher Markt S-bahn stop, a couple of blocks from Alexanderplatz. We recommend this area very highly, for a number of reasons. Everywhere you go in that neighborhood, you are always in the shadow of that gigantic and iconic TV tower, the Fernsehturm. Better still, you are within easy-peasy walking distance of Museum Island (including the incredible Pergamon Museum), the Berliner Dom (Cathedral), the Marienkirche, the stately Rathaus (town hall), the Neptune Fountain, the old-timey Nikolaiviertel area, and lovely cafes along the river. And anything that's not within walking distance can be easily reached because the S-bahn station is right there.

But even if it didn't have all that convenient accessibility, it would still be a pretty nice area to stay in. It gives you a nice mix of residential & commercial, the old & the new, historic & practical...it's a real neighborhood, not just a tourist zone.

One of our very favorite things to do in European cities, especially in the spring and summer months, is to seek out those places where multiple restaurants/bars/cafes have their outdoor seating areas butting up against each other...forming a single continuous zone of urban relaxation, refreshment and people-watching. Just such an area exists near the tracks, about a block from the hotel. Also nearby is the famous Hackescher Hof, a block of buildings with lovely interconnected courtyards that have cute shops and boutiques, plus (yes) even more cafes and restaurants.
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Old May 7th, 2013 | 04:05 AM
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<b>The Adina Hackescher Markt Hotel, Berlin</b>

This hotel worked out perfectly for us! I believe it is all suites and apartments; ours was a one-bedroom apartment with a small balcony and a full kitchen complete with some utensils, dishes and cooking equipment—including a toaster, in which I burned some bread and very nearly set off the smoke alarm. The bathroom had a washer and dryer, which would have come in very handy had we stayed here later in our trip; however, we weren’t quite ready to do laundry during the first three days.

The triple-paned windows really kept the noise out; even though we could see the train tracks from our room, we could hear almost nothing when the balcony door was closed.

There is wi-fi available throughout the hotel, although the arrangement is a little weird. It is free in the lobby and public areas, but you need to ask for a one-hour card from the reception desk—and it’s one card per device, so we were continuously asking for cards to use with two iPhones, iPad and computer. Internet is also available for a fee in the rooms and, in reality, the fee isn’t that bad (it's for an actual amount of time used, not a specific time period). Nevertheless, we did spend more time than we probably wanted to in the lobby using the free internet.

There’s a restaurant/bar attached; however, we never had the chance to use it, and our rate did not include the buffet breakfast.

Despite being an “apartment” hotel, it has all the services of a regular hotel. The staff was wonderful—very friendly and helpful.

As noted earlier, the location was fantastic. We walked quite a few places from the hotel, including as far away as Potsdamer Platz and up into the neighborhoods to the north and west. When we didn’t want to walk, the S-bahn station is literally around the corner. Also around the corner are a decent sized grocery store and a bakery, and places to eat and drink are all around.

We wouldn’t hesitate to stay here again!

€149 per night for a one-bedroom apartment (room only)
http://www.adina.eu/adina-apartment-...her-markt/home
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Old May 7th, 2013 | 04:13 AM
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I'm actually planning a trip next year that has us in Prague, Dresden and Berlin going opposite to your route so I'm very interested in your report keep it coming!
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Old May 7th, 2013 | 04:18 AM
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<b>The neighborhood(s), part 2</b>

Although we packed in plenty of standard sights during our time in Berlin, one of the things we like to do most is wander and check out different neighborhoods—and Berlin has a wonderful diversity of neighborhoods for doing so, such as those just to the north and northwest of the Hackescher Markt area. Of note, though, there is a tremendous amount of construction in parts of Mitte right now.
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...ac0c#h5e59f33e

One area we particularly enjoyed was Kreutzberg, near the Kottbusser Tor U-bahn station, where we spent a good part of one afternoon exploring the neighborhood, wandering through the Turkish market (operating Tuesday and Friday afternoons) and resting on the green banks of the canal. Too bad we had lunch before going there, because the market treats looked really good!
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...ac0c#h5e59f29a

We also headed up to Prenzlauer Berg one evening for dinner, as we had considered staying in this area. It looked inviting (albeit not quite as central for sightseeing); however drizzle turning to steadier rain limited our walking-around time just a bit.
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Old May 7th, 2013 | 04:34 AM
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Enjoying your report ...I did the same trip (in reverse) several years ago.
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Old May 7th, 2013 | 07:19 AM
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<b>The Pergamon Museum</b>

It would be wrong to describe us as “museum people”. We generally prefer to experience the here-and-now of the places we visit, but there are notable exceptions. And no question about it… The Pergamon Museum on Museum Island is one of those very notable exceptions.

This place displays antiquities that are so vast, so well-preserved, so carefully re-assembled, so beautiful, and so damn old, it’s just mind-blowing. The main exhibits include (of course) the famous Pergamon Altar from a Second Century BC Greek city in Asia Minor. They have reconstructed most of what remains of this massive devotional altar in painstaking detail, and the result is stunning. (image of altar detail: onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p962196273/h5e59af1e#h5e59af1e )

But equally impressive are the Roman-era Market Gate of Miletus, and the awe-inspiring Ishtar Gate and processional way from ancient Babylon. The latter was constructed in about 575 BC by subjects of King Nebuchadnezzar, and it is so amazingly well-preserved that it, frankly, looks like a modern reproduction (but it’s not).

Babylon processional way: http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...af1e#h5e59b6de

In addition, there is a very impressive collection of Islamic and Middle Eastern art… and plenty more to pique your interest. Even if (like me & ms_go) you aren’t really a “museum person”.
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Old May 8th, 2013 | 03:11 AM
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Thank you for posting. I am thinking about Berlin for Thanksgiving and this is a wealth of information.
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Old May 8th, 2013 | 09:41 AM
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Berlin is a fascinating city, Weekender. I believe that ms_go is close to having our Berlin photos sorted and ready for viewing, so stay tuned. And so...

<b>The Amazing Thrill (that didn’t actually happen)</b>

We are longtime fans of the American adventure/competition TV show, “The Amazing Race”. We were pleased to watch an episode that aired not long before our trip that had the participants racing through Berlin. Among the challenges they faced there was being strapped to a harness, dangling face-down off the top of the Park Hotel in Alexanderplatz, and then plunging headlong hundreds of feet toward the pavement before a tether stopped their freefall.

“I want to do that!” I said at the time. But we both figured that the stunt was just rigged up for the show and wasn’t some sort of ongoing thrill-ride open to the public.

So there we were, on our last day in Berlin, walking across Alexanderplatz… and I just happened to look up at the Park Hotel, JUST as a man plummeted in a face-first freefall from several hundred feet up. Just like on the show. OK, I had to check this out.

We didn’t have much time to dally, as our train to Dresden was taking off in little more than 80 minutes. So as I approached the front door of the hotel, I made a mental check-list of absolute requirements for this (let’s be honest here) bat-crazy stunt. It had to be easy and quick to find the right people and execute the deal, they had to have an availability <i>right now</i>, ms_go had to be on-board with the idea, and it had to cost $70 or less. At $75, I’d flip a coin.

I walked in the door, and a booth with the jump vendor and a smiling rep was the first thing I saw (check!). “You can go right now, if you want!” he said (check!). I looked at ms_go, who rolled her eyes and said “It’s up to you…” (check!). So now came the moment of truth… how much for the jump? 89 Euros. (sad trombone sound.)

I. Just. Couldn’t. Do it. But as I walked away, I knew in my gut that I’d regret the decision. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow… but soon. And for the rest of my life.
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Old May 8th, 2013 | 11:25 AM
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<b>The Reichstag dome</b>

I’d seen the glass dome on top of the Reichstag from afar on my previous “sprint” through Berlin and noted that as something I wanted to do the next time around. I pretty much will gravitate toward anything with a great view…even though I’m deathly afraid of heights (which, by the way, wasn’t an issue here).

Visiting the dome doesn’t cost anything, but you do need to make arrangements in advance to visit—and, apparently, sometimes well in advance. By chance, I decided to check out what was involved in said arrangements one evening about a month before our visit and was very surprised to find that one of the two full days in which we were in Berlin was already completely unavailable and the other day only had limited availability for early and late parts of the day. So I booked immediately, for a 6:45 pm visit on our last evening.

There will be several follow up communications once you book it; make sure to take the correct one (someone near us in line did not). Also make sure to take passport(s) with you when you go, because there will be an ID check for everyone on the reservation…and also a security check (this is the seat of German parliament). We got there about a half hour early and did not have to wait to go in.

Our original intent was to wait as long as possible and pick a time when it looked like there would be decent weather. That obviously didn’t work out, and as fate would have it, it poured harder during our visit to the dome than it did at any other time during our entire trip (the dome is open at the top). Even so, it was pretty spectacular. I’m still working on photos, but they probably describe this better than any words can. There are a few starting here:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...e254#h5e59e254

There are some educational exhibits and free audio guides are available, if desired. It’s also possible to arrange a guided tour along with a visit to the dome, and there is a restaurant that many people package with the visit. We only visited the dome.

More information here:
http://www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/visits/index.jsp
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Old May 8th, 2013 | 12:22 PM
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lovely pics, Ms_go. One thing that surprised us about Berlin was the amount of water [not the sort that falls from the sky, it was boiling hot when we were there]. We loved sitting by a river or canal and having a beer or a glass of wine.
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Old May 8th, 2013 | 01:53 PM
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Thanks, annhig! Not just water, but green spaces too! I was going to write something about that, but I'll just add it here. Some of our favorite moments were hanging out on the grass along the canals/river or other green areas...like this one, staring up at the cathedral:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p...eec4#h5e59eec4

The fact that we were enjoying a moment of warmish sun (which we hadn't seen much of in Chicago prior to this trip) didn't hurt!
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Old May 9th, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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<b>The Day Trip to Potsdam</b>

There is certainly a lot to see and do in Berlin, and clearly we were on a very tight schedule overall. But we both felt we would be remiss if we didn’t take the trip out to the beautiful nearby town of Potsdam and roam the grounds of the famous pleasure palaces out there.

The great thing about this trip is its relative ease. The S-Bahn 7 line takes you all the way out to Potsdam station, which is the end of the line. Just across the river from the station is the stately cathedral, which has been freshly restored, and the current (and vast) renovation/reconstruction project of the old City Palace. From there, it’s a short walk to the charming town center and the largely pedestrianized Old Town of Potsdam. We took some time to walk up and down the main drag of the old town, past the cute shops and restaurants. We stopped briefly for a little lunch in town at a sidewalk cafe called Maximillian’s, where ms_go enjoyed a massive and delicious Wiener schnitzel and potato salad (and I just had soup and a little bread).

From there, we proceeded to the fabulous palaces and parks that lie immediately to the west of town. We started at Sanssouci Park and Palace, strolling slowly past the abundant (and stunningly beautiful) statuary. I have to say that, throughout the entire park area, we’ve never seen so many beautiful statues in one place… and in such a well-groomed outdoor setting!

From there we walked westward to the Orangerie Palace, and then on to the Neues Palais. Both are lovely, and lovingly restored to their former glories. While we didn’t actually go inside and take the tour at any of them, we thoroughly enjoyed the warm-ish weather and fresh springtime air! We circled back around and finished up at the gold-adorned Chinese Tea House, then walked all the way back out of the park and all the way back through town to the train station. It was a long way to walk, maybe 7 or 8 miles in total… but a nice day for it.

We took the S-Bahn back to Berlin, stopping in Ku’damm area. Of course, we had to stop at KaDeWe and explore the food halls and top floor winter garden, with its treasure-troves of gourmet food and drink. We then set off to see the famous bombed-out steeple of Kaiser Wilhelm Kirche, but it was enclosed by a building facade as restoration work was being done. Finally, we returned to the hotel, then decided to have drinks at one of the outdoor cafes by Hackescher Markt station. It was a fine, fine evening – perfect for this sort of place, really – so our drinks led to food, and then another drink, and conversation, and people-watching.

It was a short, happy walk back to bed.
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Old May 9th, 2013 | 01:35 PM
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For those who prefer not to walk so much there are bus tours
from the train station in Potsdam.
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Old May 9th, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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danon--yes, very true! There are also trams that will take you closer to the Sanssouci Park, bikes available to rent, etc. We wanted to spend some time in the town, too; thus our decision to walk...although the bike rental guy at the train station really did try hard to persuade us
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